Feb 22, 2011

Nora, deo 3 / Nora, part 3

Haljina je skoro gotova. Ostalo mi je još da prišijem kragnu i manžetne na rukavima, i treba dobro da je prepeglam. Prilično sam zadovoljna time kako mi stoji, ali vam neću još pokazivati te slike, već par fotografija haljine na ofingeru.

Pre toga, htela sam da vam pokažem gde sam postavila šav na struku, pošto su slike test kroja bile nejasne po tom pitanju. Crvena linija na slici ispod predstavlja pomenuti šav. Gornji i donji deo test kroj sam prišila jedan za drugi, a zatim presekla gornji deo duž prikazane linije. Naknadno sam prepravila papirni kroj za suknju - morala sam malo da podignem struk.

The dress is almost finished. A few things are left to be done: sewing in a collar and sleeve cuffs. Also, I have to iron the dress. I am pretty satisfied with how it fits, but I'm not going to show you pics of me wearing the dress yet. Instead, I'm sharing with you a few pics of the dress on a hanger.

But before that, I wanted to show you how I laid out the waistline seam on the dress, sine the muslin pics didn't explain that part well. The red line on the picture bellow represents the named seam. I sewed the top of the dress to the bottom, and then I cut the muslin along the marked line. I adjusted the skirt pattern afterwards - I had to raise the waistline a bit.


A evo i haljine, u tamno ljubičastoj boji, pravljena od tzv. bistreč materijala. Tkanina je 100% sintetika, i malo je elastična, što čini haljinu izuzetno udobnom za nošenje. 

And here's the dress. It's made out of deep purple fabric, so-called bi-stretch (sorry, I don't know the English translation). It's a synthetic fabric that has a bit of latex in it, which makes the dress very comfortable to wear.



Jedna stvar koju bih volela da sam bolje uradila je poklapanje šavova na prednjem delu haljine. Šavovi gornjeg i donjeg dela se mimoilaze, što mi nije bio cilj. Bila sam ubeđena da sam sve dobro poklopila kada sam pravila test kroj, ali se ova greška ipak podvukla. Na slici ispod sam žutim linijama naznačila gde se nalaze šavovi na oba dela haljine.

There's one thing I wish I've done better: matching the seams on the front. The top and bottom seams aren't matched well, which wasn't my intention. I was so sure that I matched everything well when working on muslin, but this mismatch slipped away. I marked with yellow lines the seamlines on the picture bellow. 


Posebno sam zadovoljna time kako sam prišila skriveni rajfešlus. Kupila sam najduži rajfešlus koji sam našla, od 70cm, ali ni on nije bio dovoljno dugačak da bih ga prišila od vrha kragne. Zato sam našla kompromisno rešenje i postavila vrh rajfešlusa nekih 7-8cm ispod vrha leđa. Pošto haljina ima otvoren okovratnik, mogu lako da provučem glavu kroz isti, tako da oblačenje haljine nije problem.

I am very pleased with how I applied the invisible zipper. I bought the longest zipper I could find, 70cm long, but it still wasn't long enough to apply it from the top of the collar. So I found a compromising solution and laid the zipper 7-8cm bellow the top of the back. Since the dress has an opened neckline, I can easily pull the dress over my head, so that isn't an issue.


Još jedan detalj kojim sam zadovoljna: šavovi na struku se savršeno poklapaju duž rajfešlusa, što nije uvek lako izvesti. Bila sam oduševljena kada sam iz prvog pokušaja uspela to da izvedem!

Here's one more detail I'm pleased with: the waistline seams match perfectly along the zipper, which isn't that easy to do. I was thrilled when I matched the seams in my first try!


Postavljen je samo donji deo haljine, jer nisam želela da postavom smanjim elastičnost koju ima bistreč. Zato sam paspulirala sve dodatke za šavove, što je dodatno ulepšalo naličje haljine, ali je i produžilo proces šivenja. Namerno sam koristila paspul traku u kontrastnoj boji, jer mi se jako sviđa kada su dodaci za šavove istaknuti na ovaj način.

I lined only the skirt, because I didn't want to reduce the elasticity the fabric had. I finished the SAs using a Hong Kong technique, which made the dress so pretty on the inside, but it extended the construction. I used the bias band in contrasting color, because I like when SAs are highlighted this way. 



Da bih kompletirala outfit sa svoje skice, treba još da napravim Obi pojas (širok kaiš, koji se vezuje oko struka). Imam u planu da napravim tutorijal za to, ali sve će zavisiti od vremena koje budem imala na raspolaganju, tako da ništa ne obećavam. Pojas ću šiti od istog materijala koji sam koristila za haljinu.

To complete the outfit from my sketch, I have to make an Obi belt. I plan on making a tutorial for that, but it will depend on the time I'll have, hence I make no promises. The belt will be made out of the same fabric as the one I used for the dress.

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P.S. Da li vam ovo izgleda poznato? U pitanju je haljina Aleksandra Mekvina, iz 2007. godine. Upravo sam našla na svom računaru tu sliku, koju sam davno download-ovala sa interneta, kao buduću inspiraciju. Iskreno, zaboravila sam na tu haljinu, ali je očigledno da mi je detalj okovratnika ostao u podsvesti :-)

P.S. Does this look familiar to you? It's Alexander McQueen dress from 2007. I've just found the photo on my PC - I've downloaded it from the internet ages ago as a future inspiration. Honestly, I forgot about that dress, but it's obvious that that neckline stayed in my subconscious :-).

4 comments:

  1. Just as I said before! Fabulous! Enjoyed the explanation of the process immensely!

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  2. Anonymous2/26/2011

    If you had a picture as inspiration, i can tell you that you are an inspiration for me! Great job as usual girl!

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  3. Bussey2/28/2011

    I must confess I like your dress better than Mc Queen's..- (maybe because I am not a sleeveless-type of old girl)It melts modernity with a vintage touch... Great job!

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  4. Thank you all! The dress is finished, along with obi belt. I'll take pictures pretty soon, I promise!

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