Jan 31, 2013

Suknja za mamu / A skirt for mom

Prošle godine smo mama i ja udružile snage i sašile joj dve jaknice. To je bio zgodan način da ona nauči malo više o šivenju, da bude uključena od početka do kraja u proces, a da istovremeno dobije dobro sašivenu garderobu. Jedna od tih jakni je i ova roze, sašivena od prelepog buklea od sirove svile. Na žalost, nisam uslikala jaknu kada je bila završena, nadajući se da ću "uloviti" mamu u trenutku kada je nosi, što se nije desilo. Zato ću morati da se poslužim ovom slikom.

Last year my mom and I joined forces and made her two jackets. It was an easy way for her to learn more about sewing, to be involved in the process of making, and to get a quality sewn garments. One of those jackets was this pink one, made of a gorgeous raw silk boucle. Unfortunately, I didn't snap a photo of the finished jacket, hoping I'd photograph it on mom, but that never happened. So I'll have to use this pic.


Od buklea nije ostalo mnogo, tek jedna traka od oko 40cm dužine, koju je bilo grehota ne iskoristiti. Među zalihama materijala imala sam ljubičastu treviru, koje je takođe bilo premalo za neki konkretan odevni predmet, pa sam pomislila da bi dva materijala mogla sasvim lepo da se uklope u jednostavnu suknju. Na mami je bilo da je sašije. Međutim, baš kada se namerila da pravi suknju, stvari su krenule u pogrešnom pravcu. Jedna greška nizala se za drugom, i mama je na kraju digla ruke, jer je suknja bila prekratka, asimetrična i sa sitnim felerima koji su boli oči. 
Na žalost, nemam sliku pre moje intervencije da vam pokažem, ali mogu da opišem u čemu je bio problem. Ideja je bila da gornji deo suknje bude od trevire, a donji od buklea. Međutim, mama je pogrešno ocenila dužinu gornjeg dela i otsekla prekratke prednje i zadnje panele, pa je suknja bila 2-3 cm kraća od optimalne dužine, i nije bilo dovoljno tkanine za porub. Horizontalne šavove na suknji je prepeglala oba u istom smeru, što je napravilo velika zadebljanja koja su naglašavala stomak. To je pokušala da ispravi štepanjem preko šava, što nije urodilo plodom, jer se na taj način zadebljanje ne može smanjiti. Postavu je umetnula licem ka suknji, pa su se šavovi videli iznutra. Na kraju, ni pojas nije dobro prišila, jer je stajao blago ukoso, što je suknju činilo asimetričnom. Ono što moja mama još uvek nije naučila je da ponekad neki šav mora i da se opara :). Svaki početnik pravi ovakve greške, ubeđen da mala omaška u šivenju može da se zamaskira. 

Not much had left from the boucle, a strip of fabric, approximately 40 cm long, which was a shame not to use. I had some purple fabric in my stash, not enough to make a garment of it, and I thought the two fabrics could make a nice simple skirt. I left it to mom to sew the skirt. However, things started moving in the wrong direction once she started sewing. One mistake followed the other and mom finally gave up, having a skirt that was asymmetrical, too short and with striking flaws.
I don't have the before pictures to show you. The idea was to place the purple fabric on the top of the skirt and the pink one on the bottom. However, mom miscalculated the length and cut the top pieces too short, ending up with a skirt that was 2-3 cm shorter than needed, and with no fabric for hemming. She pressed SAs on the horizontal seams in one direction, making huge bulks that accentuated her tummy. She tried to fix this by topstitching the seams, which didn't result the way she had expected, since you can not reduce the bulk this way. She applied a lining with right side towards the skirt, leaving the lining seams visible. Finally, she sewed the belt slightly off, which made the skirt look asymmetrical. What my mom hasn't learned yet is that sometimes she needs to rip off a few seams. Every beginner makes this type of mistakes.


I pored svih tih grešaka, suknja joj je dobro stajala, jer je odabrala model koji joj odgovara, pa mi je bilo žao da sav trud i materijal uludo propadnu. Oparala sam pojas, postavu i rajsferšlus, kao i poprečne štepove preko tkanine. Poprečne šavove sam raspeglala otvorene, što je momentalno smanjilo debljinu platna. Otsekla sam sa donjeg dela suknje traku dužine oko 15cm i našila traku od  trevire, dugu oko 25cm. Na zadnjem delu sam, umesto klasičnog šlica, napravila duplu faltu, kako bi lakše mogla da hoda. Suknja još uvek nije porubljena - to će mama odraditi kada utvrdi potrebnu dužinu. Drago mi je da je dobila lepu suknju koja čini odličan komplet sa jaknicom od istog materijala. Samo se nadam da ću uskoro uspeti da uslikam ceo outfit na njoj. 

However, even with those flaws, the skirt fitted her well, the model was so right for her, and I wanted to fix it - it would have been a shame to waste all her effort and the fabric. I ripped off the belt, lining and zipper, along with horizontal topstitching. The horizontal seams were pressed open, which reduced thickness of the fabric. I cut off a strip of fabric from the bottom of the skirt, approximately 15 cm long, and sewed on a strip of purple fabric, 25 cm long. I made a kick pleat on the center back, to allow comfortable movement. The skirt isn't hemmed yet - mom will hem it when she defines the needed length. I'm glad she got a nice skirt that makes a lovely suit with the jacket. I just hope I'll manage to snap some photos of the outfit.

2 comments:

  1. The suit will be so great when it is finished! It's funny that you are teaching your mother to sew.. where in my case of course my Mum taught me to sew! just like I am teaching my own daughter to sew, in turn!

    The things you are making in masterclass are simply breath taking :)

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  2. The jacket is awesome, I love the contrast piping you've used and I'm sure it's a great way to bond with your mum!

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