Aug 30, 2013

Nougat dress #1301 sewalong - Prišijte postavu za haljinu / Sew the lining to the dress

Još malo pa smo kompletirali Nugat haljinu. Ostalo je još da prišijemo postavu za haljinu i da porubimo sve slojeve skuknje. 
U današnjem postu bavićemo se postavom. Postupak koji ću opisati možete primeniti na bilo kojoj haljini bez rukava. Trudila sam se da uslikam što više fotografija, jer je bez njih veoma teško opisati neke od koraka. 

We have almost finished the Nougat dress. We need to sew the lining to the dress and to hem all layers of the skirt
Today we will work on the lining. The procedure I'll show you can be used on any sleeveless dress. I tried to snap a lot of photos, since this process is hard to describe without them.

Postavite lice postave preko lica haljine. Preklopite lepo slojeve duž izreza oko vrata i oko ruku. Špenadlama uhvatite slojeve zajedno.

Lay the lining over the dress with right sides together. Align the layers along the neckline and the armholes. Pin the layers together.


Proštepajte delove zajedno, zaustavljajući šav na par santimetara od linije ramena, kao i od bočnog šava u kom je rajsferšlus.

Sew the pieces together, stopping the stitch a few centimeters away from the shoulder line and from the left side seam, where the zipper is placed.



Opsecite dodatke za šavove duž proštepanih delova, ostavljajući ih široke 0.5 cm. Izendlajte ivice.

Cut off the SAs along the stitched lines, leaving them 0.5 cm (1/3") wide. Serge the raw edges.


Okrenite materijale na lice, izvrćući celu haljinu od iznutra ka spolja.

Turn the dress inside out.


Spojte prednji i zadnji deo haljine duž ramenog šava i raspeglajte šavove.

Sew the shoulder seams on the shell and press the seams open.



Sada spojte prednji i zadnji deo postave duž ramenog šava. Ovde ćete morati da izvrćete delove postave kako biste mogli da napravite šav sa naličja materijala.
Primetite da su i sa spoljne i sa unutrašnje strane svake od bretela haljine ostale rupe u šavu.

Now sea the shoulder seams on the lining. You will need to twist the lining in order to make a stitch on the wrong side of the fabric.
Note that there are unfinished seams left on armholes and neckline.


Izvrnite haljinu od spolja ka unutra, pri tom je izvrćući između dva sloja. Cilj je da izvrnete haljinu tako da možete da priđete ramenom šavu i prošijete preostale šavove.

Flip the dress outside in, by flipping it between the two layers. The goal is to flip the dress so that you can reach the shoulder seam and sew the unfinished seams.


Dakle, izvucite bretelu što više, tako da su haljina i postava postavljene licem ka licu, i prošijte šavove oko otvora za glavu i ruku. Opsecite višak dodataka za šavove i izendlajte ivice.

Pull the shoulder strap as much as you can, having the shell and lining fabrics with right sides together and sew the seams on neckline and armholes. Cut off the extra width of the SAs and serge the seams.


Kada ste kompletirali obe bretele, izvrnite ponovo haljinu, obrćući slojeve ka licu materijala.

When both shoulder are finished, flip the dress again, inside out.


Sada treba da zašijemo postavu za dodatke za šavove duž rajsferšlusa.

Now you need to finish the lining along the zipper.


Otvorite rajsferšlus do kraja. Sa svake strane rajsferšlusa uhvatite postavu za bočni šav uz pomoć špenadli. Pri tom, presavijte ivicu postave na unutra toliko da glava rajsferšlusa ne hvata materijal prilikom zatvaranja. Obeležite na postavi koliko je potrebno da se savije ivica šava.

Open the zipper, and pin the lining to the zipper band. Fold the lining edge inwards so that the zipper head doesn't get caught in the fabric when the zipper closes. Mark the amount of the edge fold on the lining.


Opet izvrnite haljinu, od spolja ka unutra, tako da su postava i haljina okrenute jedna ka drugoj licem ka licu. Špenadlama uhvatite postavu i haljinu duž trake rajsferšlusa, tako da se on nalazi između dva sloja materijala. Proštepajte slojeve zajedno, duž linije obeležene u prethodnom koraku.

Flip the dress once again, outside inwards, having the shell and lining with right sides together. Pin the zipper to the dress along the zipper band, so that the zipper band is sandwiched between the two layers of fabric. Sew the layers together, along the line marked in the previous step.


Presavijte vrh rajferšlusa tako da sloj postave bude unutar pregiba, a sloj haljine sa spoljne strane pregiba. Zaršvite započeti šav duž otvora za ruku, šijući iznad samog graničnika na rajsferšlusu.

Fold the zipper band at the top, so that the lining layer is inside the fold and the shell is outside the fold. Finish the armhole seam, by sewing above the zipper's top tab.


Izvrnite haljinu na lice. Ponovite opisani postupak na drugom kraju rajsferšlusa.

Flip the dress inside out. Repeat the process for the other zipper's side.


Zatvorite rajsferšlus i proverite da li se gornje ivice poklapaju. Prepeglajte bočni šav i sa lica i sa naličja.

Close the zipper and check if the top edges are well aligned. Press the side seam by pressing from both right and wrong side of the dress.



Da biste pričvrstili postavu na mestu kako ne bi virila napolje duž otvora za glavu i ruke, proštepajte zajedno postavu i dodatke za šavove duž ovih otvora, tik uz liniju otvora. Ja to obično radim ručno, sitnim i gotovo neprimetnim bodom, jer mi se on više sviđa od mašinskog boda, a i daje mi mogućnost da priđem čak i onim delovima koji su mašini nepristupačni.

In order to secure the lining from peeking out at the neckline and armholes, you need to edge-stitch the lining to the SAs. I usually do this by hand, using tiny and almost invisible stitches, just because I like it better this way. Also, it gives me an access to some areas that aren't reachable when usgin the sewing machine.


Prepeglajte otvore za glavu i ruke.

Press the armholes and the neckline.


U sledećem postu ćemo porubiti postavu, kao i oba sloja suknje. Još malo i gotovi smo!

We will hem the lining and both layers of the shell in the next post. We're almost done!


Prethodni postovi o Nugat haljini / Previous articles about the Nougat dress:
http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/nougat-dress-1301-sewalong-sastavite_29.html
http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/nougat-dress-1301-sewalong-sastavite_27.html
http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/nougat-dress-1301-sewalong-prisijte.html
http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/nougat-dress-1301-sewalong-sastavite_23.html
http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/nougat-dress-1301-sewalong-iskrojte.html

Aug 29, 2013

Nougat dress #1301 sewalong - Sastavite postavu / Assemble the lining

Do sada smo sastavili haljinu i prišili rajsferšlus na Nugat haljini. Sada je vreme da počnemo da radimo na postavi. 
Ako šijete varijaciju C haljine, danas ćete i vi početi da šijete. Pošto su krojni delovi za haljinu i postavu identični, korake koje u ovom postu opišem ćete primeniti na oba sloja.
Setite se da smo, kada smo krojili delove za haljinu, kroj postavljali na lice materijala. Sa delovima za postavu je suprotno, tj. kroj treba da postavljate na naličje materijala, kako biste dobili postavu koja je nalik na odraz u ogledalu vaše haljine.
Ovaj post neće biti previše detaljan, budući da je većina postupka šivenja postave veoma slična (ako ne i ista) onom koji smo primenili kada smo sastavljali haljinu. Opisaću osnovne korake i dati napomene za one korake koji se razlikuju od opisanih.

We have assembled the dress and sewed in a zipper on the Nougat  dress so far. Now it's time to start working on the lining.
If you're making view C of the dress, you'll start sewing today. Since the pattern for the shell and lining are identical, you will use the same process I'll describe here for both layers. 
Remember that we laid the pattern pieces on the right side of fabric when we cut the shell. Well, we'll do the opposite with the lining and lay the pattern pieces on the wrong side of the fabric in order to get a lining that is a mirror image of the shell.
This post won't be a very detailed one, since most of the steps I described when assembling the dress can be applied to the lining. I will describe basic steps and point out those that differ from the ones I have already described.

Iskrojte krojne delove za postavu / Cut the lining pieces


Iskrojte krojne delove za postavu. Prednji i zadnji gornji delovi imaju brusne koje je potrebno obeležiti na tkanini. Kao i kod ostatka kroja, ni ovde nisam koristila kredu za obeležavanje kroja.

Cut the lining. Bodice panels have darts that need to be marked on the fabric. Like on the rest of the pattern, I haven't used tailor's chalk either for transferring the pattern.


Umesto krede, mnogo bolji način obeležavanja brusne je takozvanim labavim fircom, koji izgleda kao na slici. Labavi firc je bod koji se šije kroz oba sloja materijala. Umesto da zatežete konac, potrebno je da ostavite podužu petlju izmeđju svaka dva boda.

Instead of using chalk, I used a much better way of marking - tailor tacks, which looks like shown on the picture below. It's sewn through both layers of fabric. While hand basting you need to loosen the thread and leave a loops in the stitch.


Kada ste obeležili brusnu, sklonite papirni kroj i pažljivo povucite slojeve tkanine u suprotnim smerovima, kako bi se konac zategao na površini svakog od slojeva.

Once you have marked the dart, remove the paper pattern and pull carefully layers of the fabric in opposite directions, until the thread is tightened on their surfaces.


Prosecite konce između slojeva i razdovjte slojeve. Dobili ste precizno obeležene brusne.

Cut the peaking threads and separate the layers. You've got some precisely marked darts.


Ponovite postupak i na prednjem panelu.

Repeat the process on the front panel.


Sašijte prednji gornji panel / Sew the front bodice


Brusne na prednjem delu šijte jednu po jednu. Presavijte po dužini brusnu na pola i pričvrstite slojeve špenadlama. 

Sew darts on the front bodice one by one. Fold the dart in half along its length and pin the layers in place.
  

Prošijte brusnu, otsecite višak materijala, ostavljajući dodatke za šavove širine oko 0.5 cm. Izendlajte ivice i uklonite firc.

Sew the dart, cut off the extra fabric leaving 0.5 cm (1/3") wide SAs. Serge the raw edges and remove the basting thread.


Ponovite opisani postupak i sa drugom brusnom.

Repeat the process on the other dart.


Završite gornji panel kratkim šavom od spoja dveju brusni do linije struka.

Finish the front bodice by sewing a short seam from the darts' joining point to the waist line.


Raspeglajte brusne i šavove.

Press the darts and seams.


Sastavite ostatak postave / Assemble the lining


Prošijte brusne na zadnjim gornjim panelima i prepeglajte ih. Sastavite zadnje panele duž centralnog zadnjeg šava. Izendlajte ivice i raspeglajte šavove.

Sew the darts on back bodice and press them. Sew the back panels together, by stitching along the center back seam. Serge the raw edges and press the seams.

 

Sastavite suknju - prišijte pojas za suknju.  Izendlajte ivice i raspeglajte šavove.

Assemble the skirt - join the waist yoke and skirt panels. Serge the raw edges together and press the seams.



Sastavite prednju i zadnju stranu haljine.

Assemble the back and front dress panels.


Sastavite prednju i zadnju stranu haljine. Poravnajte delove u liniji struka, a zatim i ostatak bočnog šava. Desni šav prošijte od pazuha do poruba suknje.

Sew the back dress panel to the front. Align the waist line seams on front and back, and then align the rest of the seam's length. Sew the right side seam from the armhole down to the hemline.


Levi bočni šav prošijte od linije kuka do poruba suknje. Izendlajte ivice duž svih šavova i raspeglajte šavove.

Sew the left side seam from the hip line to the hemline. Serge all the raw edges and press the seams.


Na žalost, zaboravila sam da uslikam sašivenu postavu. Primetite da sam ostavila nesašivene ramene šavove i na haljini i na postavi. Sada ste spremni da spojite postavu sa haljinom, a to ćemo raditi u narednom članku.

Unfortunately, I forgot to snap some photos of the finished lining. Note that I left the shoulder seams un-sewed on  both the shell and the lining. Now you're ready to attach the lining to the shell. We'll do that in the next post. 


Prethodni postovi o Nugat haljini / Previous articles about the Nougat dress:
http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/nougat-dress-1301-sewalong-assemble.html
http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/nougat-dress-1301-sewalong-sastavite_27.html
http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/nougat-dress-1301-sewalong-prisijte.html
http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/nougat-dress-1301-sewalong-sastavite_23.html
http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/nougat-dress-1301-sewalong-iskrojte.html

Aug 28, 2013

Nougat dress #1301 sewalong - Sastavite haljinu / Assemble the dress

OK, do sada smo sastavili prednji i zadnji deo Nugat haljine, a sada je vreme da ih spojimo.

OK, so far we've constructed the front and back panels of the Nougat dress, now it's time to join these together. 

Prošijte bočne šavove / Sew side seams


Prvo ćemo šiti desni bočni šav. Poravnajte prednji i zadnji deo haljine duž desnog bočnog šava, vodeži računa da su vertikalni šavovi savršeno uklopljeni. Pričvrstite delove špenadlama, a zatim počnite da šijete mašinom, u pravcu od pazuha ka porubu. Zaustavite šav u nivou kukova.

First, we're gonna sew the right side seam. Align the back and front dress panels along the right side seam, making sure the horizontal seams match perfectly. Pin the layers together and start sewing from armhole towards the hemline, stopping the stitch at the hip.


Obratite pažnju na to da smo u prethodnom koraku šili kroz sva četiri sloja suknje od linije struka naniže. Ostatak bočnog šava je potrebno prošiti odvojeno za svaki od slojeva.
Pomerite donji sloj suknje u stranu, pa pričvrstite špenadlama gornje slojeve suknje duž bočnog šava. Počnite da šijete od tačke u kojoj ste zaustavili šav u prethodnom koraku, i nastavite da šijete ka porubu haljine. Izendlajte dodatke za šavove zajedno.

Note that in the previous step we sewed through all four skirt layers from the waist line down. Now we need to sew the remain of the side seam separately for each of the skirt layers. 
Move the bottom layers to the side and pin the top front and back skirt panels along the side seam. Start stitching from the point where the previous stitch ended and continue through the hem line. Serge the SAs together.


Ponovite postupak sa donjim slojevima suknje. Pomerite gornji sloj suknje u stranu i proštepajte ih. Obradite zajedno dodatke za šavove. Prepeglajte šavove zasebno za svaki sloj.

Now repeat the process for the bottom layers of the skirt. Move the top skirt layers to the side and sew the side seam. Serge the SAs together. Press the seams on each layer separately.


Na levoj bočnoj strani ostavite otšivene šavove od linije kuka naviše, a ostatak šava obradite kao što ste obradili na desnoj strani haljine. Žuta linija na slici ispod pokazuje tačku u kojoj sam počela da šijem bočne šavove sa leve strane haljine.

On the left side seam, leave the seams un-sewed from the hip-line up, and finish the remaining seam the same as you did on the right side. The yellow line on the picture below shows you where I started sewing the side seam on the left side of the dress.

Prišijte rajsferšlus / Insert a zipper


Profircajte neprošivene bočne šavove sa leve strane haljine, vodeći računa da se horizontalni šavovi dobro uklapaju. Raspeglajte šavove.

Hand baste the opened side seam, matching the horizontal side seams perfectly. Use short stitches, to secure the seam. Press the seams open.


Otvorite rajferšlus i prepeglajte ga - odmotajte zupce na rajsferšlusu dok ga peglate.
Zatvorite rajsferšlus i pričvrstite ga špenadlama za dodatke za šavove.

Unzip the zipper and iron it. Uncurl the zipper teeth when pressing.
Close the zipper ans pin it or hand baste it to the seam allowances.


Oparajte firc i otvorite rajsferšlus.

Unpick the hand basting and open the zipper.


Ukoliko imate papučicu za šivenje nevidljivog rajsferšlusa, koristite je prilikom prišivanja istog. Ja je nemam, pa koristim ove dve papučice.

If you have a presser foot for an invisible zipper, use it to sew the zipper to the dress. I use these feet.



Zatvorite rajsferšlus i proverite da li se horizontalni šavovi dobro uklapaju.
Close the zipper and check if all the horizontal seams are in place and that there's no gaping between front and back side seams.


Ukoliko je rajsferšlus duži od bočnog šava, osigurajte kraj malo ispod početka šava i otsecite višak. Ja obično koristim cik-cak bod užine 0.5 mm u ovu svrhu, i napravim par bodova preko zubaca rajsferšlusa.

If the zipper is longer than the seam, secure the end and cut of the extra length. I usually use the zick-zack stitch and set the length to 0.5 mm and run a few stitches over the zipper teeth.


Zaboravila sam da uslikam haljinu u ovoj fazi, ali sigurno već imate ideju o tome kako bi trebalo da izgleda. Prepeglajte bočni šav sa lica materijala, kako bi se ispravio rajseršlus.

I forgot to snap a photo of the dress in this stage, but you already know how it looks, so I suppose this won't be a problem. Press the side seam from the right side, to flatten the zipper.


U narednim postovima ćemo sastaviti poostavu. Kako je kroj za postavu identičan kroju za varijaciju C, šivenje će konačno početi za one koji šiju ovu verziju haljine.

We will assemble a lining in the next post. Since the lining has the same pattern as the view C, those of you who're interested in this variation will finally start sewing.