Apr 21, 2014

6 razloga zašto izbegavam da šijem po narudžbini


Kad god se pohvalim nekome (posebno ženskoj populaciji) kako znam da šijem, momentalno vidim onaj poseban sjaj u očima svoje sagovornice, koji me ni ne pita, već zahteva, da i njoj napravim makar jedan komad odeće. Neki podrazumevaju da mi plate, drugi se nadaju da bih ja to lako, brzo i besplatno uradila za prijateljicu, rođaku ili koleginicu, a neki prosto ni ne misle da moj rad podrazumeva i neku kompenzaciju. 
Najčešći odgovor koji dobiju je - "Ne šijem po narudžbini". E tada se ljudi zbune, neki čak i uvrede, iz nekog razloga to shvate lično, kao odbijanje da im pomognem.

Štepalica: 6 razloga zašto izbegavam da šijem po narudžbini

Kada sam bila mlađa, takoreći tek napredni početnik, oprobala sam se u šivenju po narudžbini; čak sam svoj prvi novac zaradila na taj način, šijući drugaricama poneku suknju ili haljinu. A onda mi se desio pravi fijasko - napravila sam prijateljici pantalone, kojima nije bila ni malo zadovoljna. Platila mi je preko volje, ali me više nikad nije pitala da joj šijem, a ja sam ostala sa veoma gorkim ukusom u ustima. Tada sam naučila važnu lekciju o ovom zanatu i shvatila da šivenje po narudžbini nikako nije isto kao šivenje za sebe, iz hobija.

Od tada retko kada prihvatam da šijem po narudžbini, a kada prihvatim da radim, to obično veoma skupo naplatim. Obično prihvatam da šijem samo one stvari koje su meni izazov i zanimljive, ostalo odbijam. 

A evo i zašto:

  1. Kada šijem za sebe, imam pravo da pogrešim, upropastim materijal, dignem ruke i batalim sve jer mi se stvar ne sviđa, ne stoji dobro, materijal se ne ponaša kako sam očekivala i slično. Kada šijem za klijenta, ne postoji ta opcija - klijent zahteva gotovu i besprekornu stvar, po svojoj zamisli i merama, i opcije poput "ne mogu" ili "mrzi me" ne dolaze u obzir.
  2. Kada šijem za sebe, tačno znam šta želim da sašijem, znam šta mi stoji i znam koji materijal treba da koristim da bih postigla određeni efekat. Kada šijem za klijenta, uvek postoji mogućnost da nisam dobro razumela njene želje, da taj tip garderobe ne stoji sjajno na njenom telu, ili da materijal koji je odabrala nije adekvatan za željeni tip odeće. Ovo se da rešiti ukoliko mi klijent unapred pokaže sliku gotove iste ili slične garderobe, i ako imam mogućnost da savetujem koji tip materijala da kupi.
  3. Kada šijem za sebe, dobro znam kako da korigujem kroj kako bi mi odeća dobro stajala - da podignem struk na zadnjem delu pantalona, da skratim prsluk na jakni, da napravim izmene za male grudi, i slično. Dobro poznajem svoje telo i navikla sam da šijem stvari za njega. Kada šijem za klijenta, ne poznajem njeno telo, nemam iskustva s tim na šta posebno treba da obratim pažnju. Dakle, sve radim prvi put, i svaki detalj je jednako bitan. A ja nisam profesionalna šnajderka sa velikim iskustvom šivenja po narudžbini, neke stvari mogu i da previdim. Ovo se može rešiti pravljenjem test kroja, na kome bih istestirala sve moguće potencijalne probleme sa krojem i korigovala nedostatke, pre nego što bih zasekla skupo plaćeni materijal koji je klijent doneo.
  4. Kada šijem za sebe, to radim samo onda kada sam raspoložena, odmorna i kada imam veliki poriv da stvaram. Kada šijem za klijenta, to radim onda kada moram, u ograničenom vremenskom roku i bez preteranog radnog elana. I ovde nema pomoći! 
  5. Kada šijem za sebe, na kraju svog truda i rada mogu da obučem svoju lepu garderobu i šepurim se u njoj ponosno. Kada šijem za klijenta, sav moj trud ode u tuđe ruke. Jedina satisfakcija mi je nasmejano lice klijenta. 
  6. Kada šijem za sebe ne, ovo ću precrtati, jer sam htela da pišem o prepravkama odeće. Ja gotovo nikad ne prepravljam odeću! Ne volim to da radim, vodim se onom - lakše ću to od nule sašiti nego prepraviti postojeće. Ne želim da menjam rajsferšluse, skraćujem pantalone, krpim nogavice i rukave, sužavam ili proširujem suknje i jakne, menjam pocepanu postavu. Klijenti, rodbina, komšije mahom žele sinte popravke tog tipa, i za takve popravke najčešće smatraju da ću ja to brzo i lako srediti, te da jednom čokoladom mogu da nadoknade zauvek izgubljeno vreme.
    Ovde moram delimično da se ogradim - za određene osobe, koje ja smatram vrednim mog truda, ovakve prepravke ću uvek uraditi, i nikad neću reći ne, ma koliko mi prepravke bile mrske. Ipak, većinu ću bez pardona odbiti. 
Mislim da sam nabrojala sasvim dovoljno razloga zbog kojih izbegavam da šijem po narudžbini. Ipak, povremeno napravim ustupak, pa upoznam veoma fine ljude, napravim sjajne kreacije, i još budem primećena od strane nekih veoma interesantnih firmi

Štepalica: Haljina od VLISCO materijala
fotografija: Nikola Zamurović

Zanima me - da li šijete po narudžbini? Da li uživate u ovakvoj vrsti rada, i smatrate li da je šivenje po narudžbini isplativo? 

6 Reasons Why I Avoid Custom Sewing


Whenever I tell someone (usually women) I sew, I instantly spot that specific look in the eyes of my interlocutor, which demands (no, it doesn't even ask) me to sew her at least one garment. Some assume they'd pay me, some hope I'd do it easily, quickly and with no fee, but some don't even think my work is worth being paid for.
Most often my reply is - "I don't do custom sewing". However, this response confuses others, some even get offended by it, taking it personally, as if I refused to help them.


When I was much younger, an advanced beginner in sewing, I tried custom sewing; my first pocket money was earned this way, by sewing a skirt or a dress here and there for my friends. And then I faced a total debacle - I sewed a pair of pants for a friend, which she didn't like at all. She paid me unwillingly and never asked me to sew for her again; on the other side, I was left with a bitter taste in my mouth. That's when I learned a valuable lesson about this trade - custom sewing was in no way equal to sewing for myself.

Since then I've been avoiding custom sewing, and when I accept to sew for someone, I usually charge it a lot. And I tend to sew only those garments I find interesting and challenging, while rejecting everything else.

Here's why:
  1. When sewing for myself, I have the right to make a mistake, ruin my fabric, give up because I don't like the garment I'm sewing, or it doesn't fit right, or the fabric doesn't behave as I expected it to, etc. When sewing for a client, there is no such option - the client expects her clothes to be done in arranged time frame, to fit perfectly and to be sewn without a flaw. "I can't" or "I'm not in a mood" are out of the option.
  2. When sewing for myself, I know exactly what I want to make, which type of garment is flattering on me and which fabric to use to make it work. When sewing for a client, there's always a possibility I didn't understand her well, the garment's style doesn't suit her, or the fabric is not appropriate for the garment she wants. This issue can be resolved if the client brings me a picture of the same or similar garment, and if I have an option to advise her on what type of fabric to look for.
  3. When sewing for myself, I know how to make the garment fit me because I know by body well - I know I need to raise the waistline, crop a jacket, make a SBA, etc. When sewing for a client, I don't know her body features well, and I don't know what to pay attention to. Everything I do on her body is my first time and every detail is equally important. And I am not a dressmaker with a long experience in custom sewing, so I can oversee some items. This issue can be solved by making a muslin or toile that would serve for fixing all the problems and fitting adjustments before cutting the fashion fabric. 
  4. When sewing for myself, I sew only when I'm in the right mood, when I'm not tired and when I feel creative. When sewing for a client, I sew when I have to, in a limited time and with no true motivation. And, I'm afraid there's no help for this problem!
  5. When sewing for myself, I can wear the garment after all the effort that's been put into it. When sewing for a client, all my work goes into someone else's hands. The only satisfaction I get is the client's smiling face.
  6. When sewing for myself no, I'll overwrite this, as I was going to write about garment alterations and fixing. I almost never fix my old clothes! I don't like doing it, as I'm guided by an idea that I would rather make something from the scratch than fix an existing garment. I don't want to change broken zippers, shorten pants, mend jeans or sleeves, widen or narrow down skirts and jackets or change the torn lining. The clients, relatives and neighbors usually ask for these small fixes, and think they can pay me with a chocolate.
    However, I do make exceptions in some cases, when the people asking for a favor from me are the ones I find worth the effort. I won't ever reject them, even though I detest fixing clothes. But I'll say no to all others without a problem.
I think I've listed enough reasons why I avoid to custom sew for clients. However, I do make an exception once in awhile, which has lead me to meeting some really nice people, making some great creations, and got me spotted by one of the very interesting companies.

Štepalica: The VLISCO dress
photography: Nikola Zamurović

So I'm interested to know - do you do custom sewing? Do you generally enjoy in this kind of work, and do you think custom sewing is payable?

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