Jul 9, 2015

Tufnasta haljina sa čvorom


Dok sam šila ovu neobičnu haljinu za drugaricu, prošla sam kroz nekoliko faza i raspoloženja prema kroju. Da potsetim, u pitanju je kroj iz Burde 12/2012, #112. Prvo sam bila raspamećena njime, potom sam pomislila kako je čvor na stomaku loš detalj, koji dodaje volumen tamo gde bi ga trebalo izbegavati, a kada sam je konačno napravila divila sam se i haljini i sebi na izvedbi. Tada sam znala da želim da napravim i sebi isti model. 

Inicijalni plan je bio da iznova napravim test kroj, korigujem ga po svojim merama i građi, i zapravo odradim celu korekciju na isti način kao što sam je radila i za drugaricu. Međutim, kada sam izvadila kroj u svojoj veličini, shvatila sam da me mrzi da ponovo radim sve od nule, i rešila da malo rizikujem i skratim postupak. Zato sam prenela na svoj kroj iste korekcije koje sam napravila i na drugaricinoj haljini. Odabrala sam materijal iz svog šteka tkanina, a birala sam onaj za koji mi ne bi bilo žao da ga upropastim - sintetički saten sa elastinom, u teget boji sa bledoroze tufnicama.

Ja imam kraći torzo nego drugarica i generalno sam drugačije građena od nje, pa sam očekivala da bi kroj mogao imati dodatnih problema, i pored izmena. Kada sam probala haljinu, iznenadilo me je koliko je suknja delovala ravna i uža na meni spram toga kako isti model stoji drugarici. Skoro da sam bila razočarana. No, rešila sam da ne želim da bacim sav trud i materijal, pa sam blago modifikovala haljinu, tj. malo drugačije sam aranžirala nabore. Preklop koji se prema originalnom dizajnu uvija u čvor sam provukla kroz plastičnu kopču i prišila sa haljinu.

Na žalost, imam samo par slika u maloj rezoluciji da vam ilustrujem kako haljina izgleda na meni. Priznajem, nije tako lepa kao ona koju sam šila drugarici, ali je svakako slatka, i veoma je udobna.

Štepalica: Tufnasta haljina sa čvorom

Štepalica: Tufnasta haljina sa čvorom

Štepalica: Tufnasta haljina sa čvorom

I evo par kvalitetnijih slika haljine na krojačkoj lutki.

Štepalica: Tufnasta haljina sa čvorom

Štepalica: Tufnasta haljina sa čvorom

Povezani tekstovi

Polkadots dress with a knot


While I was making this unusual dress for a friend, my thoughts towards it changed a lot. It is a pattern from Burdastyle 12/2012, #112. At first I loved the pattern, then I thought the knot detail was adding too much bulk to waist, and when I completed the dress I was thrilled with both the dress and my execution of it. That's when I realized I wanted to make one for myself.

My initial plan was to make a muslin first and fit the dress according to my measures and body shape. However, after I traced the pattern in my size, I realized I didn't feel like doing it all over again, so I decided to take a risk and cut down the process. So I copied the alterations I did for the friend's dress to my pattern. I chose a fabric from my stash - one that I wouldn't feel sorry for if I ruined it. It was navy stretch satin with pale pink polkadots.

I have a shorter torso torso than my friend and generally speaking, we have different body shapes, so I expected some issues with the pattern. When I tried on the dress I was surprised by how differently the same model looked on me and on the friend. On me, the skirt looked less voluminous and more straight. I was almost disappointed by the dress. However, I decided to make it work, so I arranged the dress'gathers differently, so that they suited my body better. The wrap that twists into a knot on the original dress was pulled through a buckle and sewed to the dress.

Unfortunately, I have only a few pics in low resolution to show you how the dress looks on me. I admit it, it's not as pretty as the one I made for the friend, but it's still very cute and very comfortable.

Stepalica: Polkadots dress with a knot

Stepalica: Polkadots dress with a knot

Stepalica: Polkadots dress with a knot

Here are some better pics of the dress on my mannequin.

Stepalica: Polkadots dress with a knot

Stepalica: Polkadots dress with a knot

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Jul 6, 2015

Haljina sa čvorom


Prošlo je skoro godinu dana od kako sam počela da radim na haljini za drugaricu. Da vas podsetim, u pitanju je veoma zanimljiv kroj sa čvorom, iz Burde 12/2012 #112. Prošlog jula smo napravile test kroj i pozamašno ga izmenile kako bi haljina dobila adekvatan oblik. Kroj je namenjen izuzetno visokim osobama, pa je kroj trebalo skratiti u predelu torzoa, o čemu sam pisala u ovom postu.

No, kroj sam naknadno još izmenila, dodavši par falti tamo gde ih nije bilo, i uklonivši par nabora tamo gde su pravili prevelik volumen. Trudile smo se da zadržimo originalan dizajn haljine, ali da je napravimo tako da svaki nabor stoji na svom mestu, ne dodajući volumen tamo gde to ne bi lepo izgledalo.

Da ne duljim previše priču, evo kako haljina izgleda. Koristile smo tanku viskozu, koja predivno pada.

Štepalica: Haljina sa čvorom

Štepalica: Haljina sa čvorom

Štepalica: Haljina sa čvorom

Štepalica: Haljina sa čvorom

Štepalica: Haljina sa čvorom

Detalj sa čvorom.

Štepalica: Haljina sa čvorom

Štepalica: Haljina sa čvorom

Štepalica: Haljina sa čvorom

Obrađivanje čvora je bio najteži deo šivenja haljine. Želela sam da haljina bude lepa, uredno sašivena, i praktična za održavanje. Zato sam odlučila da blago izmenim originalan kroj, i umesto da ručno prišijem preklop čvora za haljinu (kako uputstvo nalaže), ja sam ga provukla kroz prorez u šavu i drikerima pričvrstila za materijal.

Štepalica: Haljina sa čvorom

Štepalica: Haljina sa čvorom

Naličje haljine, detalj sa preklopom čvora.

Štepalica: Haljina sa čvorom

Štepalica: Haljina sa čvorom


Povezani tekstovi

The knotted dress


It's been alsmost a year since I started working on a dress for a friend. To remind you, we worked on a very interesting pattern with a knot detail from Burda Style 12/2012 #112. We made a muslin last July and altered the pattern quite a lot in order to make it fit. The pattern is drafted for extremely tall women, so we needed to shorten it, which I described in this post.

I altered the pattern more afterwards, by adding few more pleats and removing some of the unflattering gathers. We tried to keep the original design of the dress, while making it fit the body.

With no further ado, here is how the dress looks. We used a light viscose fabric that drapes beautifully.

Stepalica: The knotted dress

Stepalica: The knotted dress

Stepalica: The knotted dress

Stepalica: The knotted dress

Stepalica: The knotted dress

The knot details.

Stepalica: The knotted dress

Stepalica: The knotted dress

Stepalica: The knotted dress

Finishing the knot was the most difficult part of sewing. I wanted the dress to be neatly sewn, both from the right and wrong sides, while easy to maintain. So I decided to slightly alter original design - instead of sewing the knot wrap to the dress (as the sewing instructions said), I made a small slit in the waist seam and pulled the knot wrap through it. The wrap is fixed to the dress from the wrong side of dress with two snaps.

Stepalica: The knotted dress

Stepalica: The knotted dress

Stepalica: The knotted dress

Stepalica: The knotted dress

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