Jan 29, 2015

A jacket with double lapels



Finally I have an actual garment to show you, as I have finally pushed myself to snap some pics of a new jacket that comes straight out of my sewing desk.

I've been collecting pics of jackets with some interesting details on Pinterest for a while. I love unusual lapels, collars, button closures, and all the details that make a garment stand out from everything else you see. I am frequently inspired by more than one details at the same time, and then I try to fit all these details into a single garment. In such case the art is to keep the things simple and not over-do a garment, so that at the end of the day it looks well styled and not costumey. Along with that I try to stay loyal to my personal style and make a garment that's pretty and comfy, and that I would wear gladly, The worst thing is when you invest a lot of time and effort into a garment you're not thrilled with.

Stepalica: A jacket with double lapels, inspiration
Left to tight: (1) unknown designer; (2) Alexander McQueen; (3) Haider Ackermann

This time I wanted to experiment with a double set of lapels. The idea came from the denim jacket (left on the picture) that I don't know who designed it. I loved the double set of lapels, as it's not a detail you can frequently see on clothes. However, I didn't want to make the jacket too casual, so I desiced to avoid using denim and twill. Leather sounded like a much better idea.

I also didn't want to use zipper, even though I normally like how it looks on jackets. But I have already made several jackets in a row which all feature zippers, so this time I wanted to make something different. So I thought of having a button closure with using metal frogs, like the one McQueen jacket had (in the middle on the picture). Along with the button closure, the McQueen jacket featured a gorgeous waist peplum that drew my attention. I didn't dare to make the peplum as voluminous as McQueen's is, but I did transfer some of its features to my jacket.

Finally, I wanted to add some eye catching detail to the back as well, so I added the folds to the back paplum resembling the ones I saw on Haider Ackerman's jacket (right on the picture).

You can see on the pictures below how the jacket turned out. I did'n make an exact copy paste of any of the details, but I did use the general ideas.

Stepalica: A jacket with double lapels

I used an artificial velour with a gorgeous weave, that can be easily mistaken for real leather suedue, as it looks and feels like one. I bought the fabric several years ago not having a clear idea of what I would use it for, so it sat down in the closet waiting for an inspiration. Since the fabric is woven, it is beautiful to work with - it can handle heat and ironing and it is not sensitive to needle penetration, so it was an easy job for me.

Stepalica: A jacket with double lapels

Stepalica: A jacket with double lapels

Stepalica: A jacket with double lapels

Stepalica: A jacket with double lapels

I really love the end result. I even think of copying the peplum detail on another jacket, and make it a bit more voluminous. We'll see what I'll think of meanwhile.

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Jakna sa duplim reverima



Konačno imam konkretnu odeću da vam pokažem, jer sam se nakanila da uslikam novu, sveže sašivenu, jaknu.

Već neko vreme sakupljam na Pinterestu slike zanimljivih jakni sa neobičnim detaljima.  Volim da vidim interesantne revere, kragne, kopčanje, sve ono što čini da jedan komad odeće odskače u mnoštvu drugih stvari. Neretko me inspiriše više stvari istovremeno, i onda se trudim da spojim najbolje detalje koje sam videla na više različitih stvari u jedan komad odeće. U takvim situacijama mudrost je ne preterati, i pametno uklopiti elemente u jednu celinu, tako da ona na kraju izgleda skladno, a ne kao cirkuski kombinezon. Pored toga, trudim se da ostanem dosledna svom stilu, i napravim garderobu koja mi je udobna i lepa, i za koju sam sigurna da ću je rado nositi. Nema ničeg goreg od toga da utrošim silno vreme i trud u nešto čime na kraju nisam oduševljena.

Štepalica: Jakna sa duplim reverima, inspiracija
S leva na desno: (1) nepoznat dizajner; (2) Aleksandar Mekvin; (3) Haider Ackermann

Ovaj put, htela sam da eksperimentišem sa duplim reverima. Ideja je potekla od teksas jakne (levo na slici), čiji dizajner mi je ostao nepoznat. Jako mi se dopala ideja dvostrukih revera - to nije nešto što svakodnevno možete videti na odeći. Međutim, nisam želela da jakna bude previše neobavezna, pa sam želela da izbegnem teksas, rips i keper kao materijale. Koža mi je zvučala kao mnogo bolja ideja.

Nisam želela da koristim rajsferšlus, iako volim kako on izgleda na jaknama. Ali već nekoliko uzastopnih jakni sam šila sa ovim detaljem, pa sam želela da ovaj put napravim nešto drugačije. Tu je uskočila ideja da kopčanje bude bez preklopa, uz pomoć žabica, kao na jakni Aleksanda Mekvina (slika u sredini). Pored kopčanja, Mekvinova jakna je imala i fenomenalan volan na struku, koji mi je jako privukao pažnju. Nisam se baš usudila da napravim tako raskošan volan, ali sam poželela da nešto od tog detalja prenesem na svoju kreaciju.

I konačno, poželeh da jakna bude jednako interesantna i s leđa. pa sam rešila da volan ukrasim pregibom kakav sam videla na jakni dizajnera Hajdera Akermana (slika desno). 

Kako sam spojila ove elemente možete videti na slikama ispod. Ni jedan detalj nisam identično prekopirala, ali sam iskoristila ideje.

Štepalica: Jakna sa duplim reverima

Materijal koji sam koristila je veštački velur predivnog tkanja, koji tek kad mu se veoma približite otrkiva da nije u pitanju prevrnuta koža. Čak bi vas i dodir istog zavarao, jer je pod rukom osećaj identičan prevrnutoj koži. Tkaninu sam kupila pre dosta godina, bez jasne ideje šta od nje da sašijem, i čuvala za neku posebnu priliku. Materijal je tkan, tako da je fenomenalan za rad - odlično podnosi peglanje, i nije preterano osetljiv na ubode iglom, tako da nisam morala da se dovijam prilikom šivenja.

Štepalica: Jakna sa duplim reverima

Štepalica: Jakna sa duplim reverima

Štepalica: Jakna sa duplim reverima

Štepalica: Jakna sa duplim reverima

Jako mi se dopada krajnji rezultat. Toliko da razmišljam da ponovim detalj na leđima volana. Čak se razmišljam da kompletan volan ponovim na nekoj drugoj jakni, ali da ga učinim malo raskošnijim. Videćemo još šta će mi pasti na pamet.

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