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Dec 10, 2010

TR suknja, deo 2 / TR skirt, part 2

Hvala svima na podršci i lepim komentarima! To mi zaista mnogo znači.

Thank you all for your support and for the comments you left! I highly appreciate it.

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Dakle, evo drugog dela priče o mojoj transformisanoj i rekonstruisanoj suknji. 

Kada sam iskrojila papirni šnit, položila sam delove na materijal i špenadlama ih pričvrstila. Zbog specifičnog oblika krojnih delova, nisam vodila računa o pravcu tkanja na materijalu, pa sam kroj namestila tako da utrošak materijala bude minimalan. 
Materijal sam sekla oko krojnih delova, i usput dodavala dodatke za opšivke, otprilike 1.5cm široke, odnosno oko 2cm duž linije poruba. 

So, here's the second part of the story about my transformed and reconstructed skirt.

Once I cut the paper pattern, I laid the pattern pieces onto the fabric and pinned them to the fabric. Due to pattern's specific shape, I didn't pay attention to the straight grain of the fabric, and I laid the pieces in a way that used as less fabric as possible.
I cut the fabric around the pattern, eyeballing the seam allowances, that were approximately 1.5cm wide, 2cm for hem line.


Krojne delove sam sve vreme tokom šivenja držala pričvršćene za materijal pomoću špenadli, kako bih se osigurala da spajam delove dobrim redosledom. 
U suštini, kroj se sastoji od 4 krojna dela, od kojih dva dela čine 90% suknje. Ta dva dela se međusobno spajaju jednim dugim, krivudavim šavom. Kako bih olakšala sebi posao, spajala sam krojne delove malo po malo, praveći šavove duge oko 15 - 20cm i nadovezivala ih na prethodan kontinuirani šav.
Na žalost, nemam slike koje demnostriraju sam proces šivenja - šivenje je moj omiljeni deo celog procesa, i često se prilično zanesem, tako da mi je sva koncentracija usmerena samo na tkaninu i šivaću mašinu. 

Kada sam sastavila sve delove, ojačala sam liniju pojasa trakom od tankog lepljivog platna.

I kept the paper pattern pieces pinned to the fabric until I sewed the skirt, thus ensuring that I joined all the pieces correctly and in right order.
Basically, the pattern is consisted of 4 pieces, where two of them part 90% of the skirt. These two pieces are joined together by one long continuous, curvy seam. To make my work easier, I sewed the pieces bit by bit, making stitches that were 15cm long.
Unfortunately, I don't have the pictures that demonstrate the sewing itself - the sewing is my favorite part of the whole process, and I get carried away easily, so that my concentration is all focused on fthe abric and the sewing machine.

Once I joined all the pieces together, I enforced the waist line of the skirt with a strip of lightweight fusible interfacing.



Detalj sa nevidljivim rajfešlusom.

A concealed zipper detail.


Zadnji deo suknje.

The back.


Prednji deo.

The front.


Postavu sam skrojila koristeći osnovni kroj za suknju. Kako bih omogućila lakše hodanje, bočne šavove sam širila prema liniji poruba, praveći time klasičan kroj za trapezastu suknju.

I cut the lining using a basic skirt pattern. To make room for walking, I flared the side seams,  thus making a classic A-line skirt pattern.


U nastavku - fotografije suknje na meni.

In the next post - photos of me wearing the skirt.