Sinoć sam još malo radila na kaputu. Prišila sam rukave na postavu, i završila prednje delove. Evo u kakvom je stanju trenutno (primetite da je prednji deo samo špenadlama pričvršćen za postavu, zato izgleda ovako čudno).
I managed to work on the coat last night. I sewed the sleeves to the lining and finished the front panels. Here's how it looks now (please note that the front part is fixed to the lining with pins, thus the weird look).
Detalj na prednjem delu su džepovi u šavu, sa kapnom. Evo kratkih instrukcija kako sam ih šila. Nalepila sam lepljivo platno na naličje kapne i prepeglala materijal uzduž, napravivši ivicu. Zatim sam naslonila lice na lice kapne i prošila bočne ivice. Otsekla sam ćoškove dodataka za šavove, kako bih smanjila debljinu platna na tom delu kapne. Takođe, jedan sloj dodataka za opšivke sam otsekla tik uz šav, kako bi debljina tkaninke postepeno opadala od sava ka unutra. Prevrnula sam kapne na lice i prepeglala bočne šavove. Nakon toga sam dodala dekorativne štepove.
Pockets in seam, with flaps make an interesting detail on the coat. Here are brief instructions on how I made them. I fused an interfacing to the wrong side of the flap and pressed the flap, thus making a sharp edge. Then I pinned the sides of the flap, with right sides together and made a stitch. I cut off the SAs corners, in order to reduce the bulk. I also grades the SAs. I turned the flaps inside out and pressed them well. Then I topstitched them.
Džepovi u šavu se šiju pre nego što su spojeni prednji delovi kaputa. Na prednji srednji panel sam postavila kapnu, i poravnala neobrađene ivice. Pri tom sam vodila računa sa se bočne ivice kapne poklope sa markerima džepa na kaputu. Zatim sam preko kapne postavila panel džepa, i opet poravnala ivice. Prišila sam delove, praveći šav od markera do markera džepa.
In seam pockets are sewed in before sewing the front coat panels. I laid out the pocket flap on the center front panel, and aligned the raw edges. I aligned the flap's edges with the pocket notches on the panel. Then I laid out the pocket over the flap, aligning the raw edges again. I sewed the pieces together, making the stitch from one pocket notch to the other.
Sličan postupak sam ponovila i na prednjem bočnom panelu, sa izuzetkom kapne za džep. Zatim sam džep prepeglala u stranu.
I repeated the process on the side front panel, minus the pocket flap After that, I pressed the pocket to the side.
Nakon ovih koraka, usledilo je šivenje prednjih delova. Bočni panel sam položila preko srednjeg, vodeći računa da su markeri džepa na panelima savršeno poravnati. Zatim sam panele spojila, zaustavljajući šav tik uz marker džepa. Nakon toga sam gornji i donji džep pričvrstila zajedno špenadlama, i proštepala ih.
After these steps I sewed the front panels together. I laid the side panel over the center panel, making sure the pocket notches were perfectly aligned. Then I sewed the panels, stopping the stitch at the pocket notch. After that I fixed together the top and bottom pockets and sewed them.
Džepove volim dodatno da ojačam, jer se tokom nošenja kaputa dosta habaju. Zbog toga su džepovi jedini delovi koje obrađujem cik cak bodom. Takođe, ojačavam ih i tako što šav džepa dva puta prošijem jedan preko drugog. Time se osiguravam da se džep neće oparati, a postava izresati.
I like enforcing the pockets a bit more, since they can wear down. Therefore, they're the only part of the lining I serge. Also, I enforce them by sewing twice along the seamline. This way, I ensure the pocket seam will not rip off and the lining fray out.
I, konačno, sledi prepeglavanje šavova. Kako bi džep lepo legao, volim da zasečem dodatke za šavove u liniji markera za džep, sa obe strane prednjeg dela kaputa. Na žalost, zaboravila sam da uslikam naredni korak - kako bih smanjila debljinu tkanine, otsekla sam dodatak za šavove kapne džepa, i zatim sam kaput prepeglala i sa lica, raspeglavši šav između kapne i prednjeg srednjeg panela.
The final step is pressing the seams. In order to make the pocket lay smoothly, I like cutting the SAs where pocket notches are placed, on both sides of the seam. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of the next step - in order to reduce bulk, I cut off the pocket flap's SAs, and then I pressed the pieces from the right side of the fabric, thus pressing the seam between the pocket flap and center front panel.
