Maslinaste pantalone, deo 1 / Olive pants, part 1

Trenutno šijem maslinasto zelene pantalone, koristeći opet Bella kroj za pantalone, sa BurdaStyle sajta. Ovaj put sam napravila par manjih izmena na kroju: sklonila sam falte sa džepova, i podigla sam liniju džepa za 5cm, kao što sam to radila i na mornarskim pantalonama. Takođe, rešila sam da napravim pantalone koje će imati rajfešlus, kao klasične pantalone. Ostatak pantalona je neizmenjen. 

Evo instrukcija kako da ušijete rajfešlus na pantalonama.

Isecite traku materijala, široku 7cm, i malo dužu od otvora šlica na pantalonama. Ovo će biti prelaz šlica. Presavijte traku na pola po dužini i  prepeglajte je. Zaoblite jedan kraj trake i obradite ivice. 

I'm currently sewing a pair of pants, using again the Bella pants pattern, downloaded from the BurdaStyle web site. This time, I made few minor alterations on the original pattern: I removed the pleated details from the pockets, and I shifted up the pocket line by 5cm, just like I did on my Nautical pants. Also, I wanted to make a pants with classical zipper closure. The rest of the pants stayed as it is.

Here's a tutorial on how to sew in the zipper.

Cut a strip of fabric, 7cm wide and few centimeters longer than the slit on the pants. This will be the zipper placket. Fold the placket in half, along its length, and press it. Curve down one side of the strip and serge the raw edge.

Postavite rajfešlus preko trake, tako da se donji kraj rajfešlusa poklapa sa zaobljenom ivicom trake. Takođe, imajte u vidu da se rajfešlus na ženskim pantalonam ušiva tako da desna strana pantalona preklapa levu stranu, pa rajfešlus treba ušiti tako da je obrađena ivica sa njegove desne strane. Kada šijete rajfešlus, šav treba da postavite koliko gode je moguće udesno.

Place the zipper over the placket, so that the bottom side of the zipper matches the curved side of the placket. Have on mind that right side of a closure on women's pants (and on all other garments) overlaps the left one, so the placket's raw edge should be placed on the right side of the zipper. When sewing the pieces together, position the stitch to the right as much as possible.  

Spojte levu i desnu stranu pantalona, ostavljajući otvoren šlic na pantalonama. 

Na slici ispod, možete videti ivicu šlica koja je profircana narandžastim koncem. 

Sew in together the left and the right sides of the pants, leaving the zipper slit unsewn.

You can see on the picture below that I hand basted the seam line of the slit in orange thread.

Savijte levi opšivak šlica, ali ne duž ivice šlica, već pregib pomerite par milimetara udesno, i pričvrstite ga špenadlama.

Fold the left seam allowance of the zipper slit. Don't fold the fabric along the seam line, but move the fold to the right by few millimeters. Pin the folded fabric.

Postavite rajfešlus i prelaz šlica kao što je prikazano na slici. Zupce rajfešlusa postavite što više udesno, tako da ivica šlica ne stoji tik uz njih. Pričvrstite delove špenadlama. Proštepajte delove zajedno, postavljajući šav što je moguće bliže rajfešlusu.

Position the zipper and the placket as shown on the picture. Position the zipper teeth to the right as much as you can, so that the slit fold line isn't standing right next to them. Sew the pieces together, positioning the stitch as close to the zipper as possible.

Presavijte desni opšivak šlica duž ivice šlica i postavite delove kao što je prikazano na slici. Pričvrstite delove špenadlama.

Fold the right slit SA along the seam line and layout the pants' pieces as  shown on the picture below. Pin the pieces together.

Okrenite pantalone na naličje. Ovako bi trebalo da izgledaju.

Turn the pants to their wrong side. This is how they should look like.

Savijte prelaz šlica prema desnom delu pantalona i pričvrstite ga špenadlama za pantalone. Drugu stranu rajfešlusa pričvrstite špenadlama za opšivak šlica, NE HVATAJUĆI pantalone.

Fold the zipper placket to the right side of the pants and pin it to the pants. Pin the other side of the zipper to the slit seam allowance on the right side, making sure YOU DON'T catch the pants.

Na slici ispod vidi se kako sam pričvrstila rajfešlus za opšivak šlica.

You can see on the image below how I pinned the zipper to the slit seam allowance.

Proštepajte spojene delove zajedno. Opet, trudite se da postavite šav što dalje od zubaca rajfešlusa.

Sew the zipper to the seam allowance. Position the stitch line as far away from the zipper as possible.

Okrenite pantalone na lice. Prelaz šlica vratite u normalan položaj (uklonite špenadle koje su ga pridržavale za desnu stranu pantalona). Iscrtajte liniju štepa, tako da bude paralelna sa ivicom šava, i tako da ne prelazi preko trake rajfešlusa. Na slici ispod možete videti kako izgleda linija štepa na mojim pantalonama. Preštepajte šlic prateći iscrtanu liniju.

Turn the pants to the right side. Put the zipper placket in it's normal position (remove the pins that were fixing it to the pant's right side). Mark a topstitch line - it should be parallel to the slit line and it should not go over the zipper strip. You can see on the image below how the topstitch line looked on my pants. Topstitch the slit along the marked line.

I to je to! Ušili ste rajfešlus na vašim pantalonama! Nemojte seći vrhove rajfešlusa pre no što ušijete pojas.

And voila! You've just sewn the zipper! Do not cut the extra length of your zipper before sewing in the wait band.

Evo kako pnatalone izgledaju kada se prišije pojas i prepegla.

Here's how the pants look like after applying and pressing the waist band.