Nora, deo 1 / Nora, part 1

Nisam mogla da odolim, i sela sam za mašinu čim mi se ukazala prilika. Varijacija Nora haljine mi se mota po glavi i ne mogu da se fokusiram ni na šta drugo (a imam preče obaveze kojima bi trebalo da se posvetim!). Da podsetim, u pitanju je haljina koju sam sama dizajnirala, a koja kao osnovu ima kroj za Nora haljinu.

I couldn't resist, I started sewing as soon as I got the opportunity. The Nora dress variation is on my mind all the time and I can't focus on anything else (and I have more important things to do!). To remind you, I'm talking about the dress I designed myself, but that's based on Nora dress pattern.

Brzo sam sastavila krojne delove i napravila test kroj u veličini 38. Naravno, kroj sam prethodno blago izmenila - zatvorila sam prednji deo do grla. Test kroj je ukazao na nekoliko problema:

• Previše sam zatvorila izrez oko vrata
• Gornji deo mi stoj prenisko, i otvor za rukave je previše spušten, što otežava pokrete rukama
• Nabori na prednjem i zadnjem delu su veoma uočljivi
• Rukavi su preširoki
• Gornji deo je prekratak, čak i za moj kratak torzo

I quickly joined the pieces together and made a muslin in size 38. Off course, I previously changed the pattern a bit - I closed the front pieces up through th throat. The muslin pointed out several problems:

• I closed the neckline too much
• The top sits too low on my body, the armhole is positioned too low and makes the dress uncomfortable when moving hands
• There are some gathers in the front and back panels
• The sleeves are too wide
• The top is too short, even fro my short torso.

Pomenute probleme sam rešavala u nekoliko koraka:

• Prvo sam otvorila izrez okovratnika.
• Zatim sam podigla ceo gornji deo tako što sam špenadlama napravila brusnu na ramenu; brusna je bila dovoljno velika da podigne otvor rukava i namesti ga u položaj u kom mi je pomeranje ruku postalo prijatno i komotno. Brusna koju sam napravila ima oblik romboida, sa najširim delom na sredini ramena, a sužava se ka prednjem i zadnjem šavu rukava.
• Nakon toga sam prepravila prednji i zadnji deo tako što sam brusne prepravila u princes šavove. Nabori koji se vide na slikama nisu toliko izraženi u prirodi.
• Rukave sam suzila u obimu za otprilike 4cm.

I fixed the named issues in a few steps:

• First I opened the neckline
• Then I raised the top - I made a diamond shaped dart on the shoulders. The dart was wide enough to raise up the armhole and put it in the right position that allowed comfortable hands movements. The dart was widest at the sleeve center and tapered down towards front and back sleeve seams.
• After that I altered the front and back pieces and made princess seams on both panels. The gathers that are visible on the photos aren't as protruding in real life.
• I tapered down the sleeves by approximately 4cm.

Kada je gornji deo dobio pristojan oblik, produžila sam ga za otprilike 6cm. Konačno, kada sam dobila željeni oblik, prepravila sam okovratnik tako da odgovara mojoj skici. Mislim da ću pomeriti šav koji spaja rukav sa telom, tako da model više odgovara mojoj skici, ali nisam još sigurna da li će ova izmena moći da se odradi onako lako kako ja to zamišljam. 

Takođe, gornji deo treba još malo da se doradi - treba da dodam kragnu i produžiću rukave za par cm. No, na tome ću raditi tek kada našijem suknju i prepravim je prema željenom obliku.

When the top got the acceptable shape, I lengthened it by approximately 6cm. Finally, when it got the desired shape, I altered the neckline to suite my sketch. I think I'm going the move seam between the sleeve and front panel, to make the top look as on my sketch, but I'm not sure whether this would be as easy as I think it should.

Also, the top needs few more minor alterations - I have to add a collar and the sleeves need to be lengthened by few centimeters. But, I'll work on that after I attach the skirt to the body.