Olga mi je u komentaru postavila pitanje vezano za pantalone koje sam nosila 11. dana MMM '11 izazova (Burda 8/2009 #106):
I ja sam prošlog proleća sašila iste pantalone, ali od tankog materijala, i jako ih volim. Produbila sam pantalone za 5cm (moja standardna izmena na krojevima iz Burde), tako što sam panele horizontalno presekla na dva dela i dodala pomenutu dužinu između njih. Time sam postigla da mi pantalone stoje na struku. Da li si na to mislila kada si napisala "Zadnje panele sam malo izmenila kako bi pantalone bile dublje"?
Moja izmena kroja je bila malo drugačija od njene. Nacrtala sam horizontalnu liniju (uslovno rečeno - horizontalnu) na zadnjem panelu, otprilike 3cm ispod gornje ivice panela, i presekla sam kroj duž nje. Zatim sam raširila delove samo duž centralnog šava, ne dirajući bočni šav pri tom. Izmenjeni kroj je izgledao kao da ima horizontalnu brusnu (naravno, ovu brusnu sam ignorisala tokom šivenja). Ovavkom izmenom su pantalone dobile više mesta za zadnjicu, dok je prednji deo ostao neizmenjen.
Koliko ću produbiti zadnji panel zavisi od samog kroja koji koristim. Svaki put kada šijem po novom kroju, moram da premerim krivulju koja stoji između nogu, i tu dužinu uporedim sa sopstvenim merama. Razlika između mojih mera i mere kroja predstavlja veličinu izmene kroja.
Olga left a comment on the pants I wore on day 11 of the MMM '11 (BWOF 8/2009 #106). Here's her comment.
I made these pants also, but in lightweight denim, last spring, and I really like them. I ended up adding about 2" to the rise of the pants too (my usual alteration with Burda), by splitting the panels in half horizontally and adding length to them, to make the pants actually sit at my waist. Is that what you mean by "deepened the top back panels"?
My alteration on the pants was a bit different than yours. I made a horizontal slash on the back panel, around 3cm bellow the top line. Then I spread only the medial side of the panel, leaving the lateral side intact. The altered pattern looked as if there was a horizontal dart on it (of course, I ignored the "dart" when sewing the pants). This made enough space for my bottom to fit in, while the front panel remained the same.
The amount of spread depends on pattern. Every time I use a new pattern, I measure the crotch length on the pattern and compare it with my measurements. The difference between the two equals the spread.
Hi, AnaJan! Thank you so much for replying to my comment, and with such awesomely clear illustrations -- I wouldn't have thought to do this to pants to increase the rise, but it's a good alteration technique to have in mind when pants are pulling in the back due to the rise being too short. Thanks again!
ReplyDeleteJako poucno,hvala na ilustraciji,ja uglavnom kad sijem pantalone krojim po Burdi i ostavim vise materijala kad secem kroj,pa po potrebi sirim kad probam..Ovo je izgleda resenje da se ne bi mucila probajuci po sto puta:)
ReplyDeleteVery instructive, thanks for the illustration, generally when I'm cutting out the pants made by Burda patterns I used to leave more material and if necessary, I made alteration after trying.. This seems to be a solution not be tortured by trying the pants hundred times:)