Nora jakna za mamu / Nora jacket for mom

Pre neki dan smo mama i ja, udruženim snagama, završile jaknu za nju. Identičnu jaknu sam šila sebi pretprošle godine, za Burda Style sajt, i od onda me mama molila da i njoj napravim jednu. No, uz moje silne ideje i raspored, nikako nisam uspevala da nađem vremena - ili mi se nije radilo (motiv za šivenje je mnogo veći kada na kraju rada mogu da obučem ono što sam napravila), ili sam bila raspoložena za nove kreacije (monotono je šiti istu stvar više puta), i tako prođoše dve godine dok sam se nakanila da šijem. Pošto je mama rešila da i sama nauči da šije, napravile smo kompromis koji je funkcionisao bolje no što sam očekivala: zajedno smo iskrojile materijal, ja sam lepila leljivo platno, fircala delove i raspeglavala sašivene komade, a ona je šila. Time sam joj pomogla da uredno sklopi delove, i pokazala joj redosled operacija, a ona je vežbala. Timski rad je dosta ubrzao proces, jer smo uspele da završimo jaknu za 2 dana. Njena verzija ima postavu, dok je moja sa unutrašnje strane završena paspul trakom oko dodataka za šavove. Kroj za jaknu sam dobila izmenom kroja za Nora haljinu, a instrukcije za izmenu su objavljene na Burda Style sajtu. No, nije zgoreg da ih ispišem i ovde.

A few days ago my mom and I joined our forces and made her a jacket. I sewed an identical jacket for myself two years ago, for Burda Style website. Since then, mom has been asking me to make her one, too. However, with my ideas and schedule, I couldn't  manage to find some tome for that - either I wasn't in the mood (sewing a garment I'm able to wear in the end motivates me more), or I wanted to materialize some of my ideas (it's not fun to sew a same thing over and over again). That way, two years went by until I pushed myself to sit down and sew for her. Since mom wanted to learn to sew as well, we made a compromise that worked better than I expected: we cut a fabric together, I fused an interfacing, pinned the pieces together, and pressed the seams on sewed pieces, and she sewed. The team work sped up the process a lot and we finished the jacket in two days. Her version of jacket has a lining, while mine is finished using the Hong Kong finishing. I altered the Nora dress pattern, and instructions for this alteration were posted on Burda Style website. However, I thought it wouldn't hurt to write them down here as well.

Za sada, imam samo sliku na ofingeru da vam pokažem. Čim se ukaže zgodna prilika, uslikaću mamu, a do tada možete da vidite kako moja jakna stoji na meni.

I only have the hanger photo at the moment. I'll take pictures of mom wearing it as soon as possible. Until then, here's the pic of me wearing my version of the jacket.

Nora je strukirana, uska haljina, ali pravimo kroj jaknu, koja zahteva određenu komociju. Zato, izvucite kroj   u veličini većoj za jedan broj od onog koji biste inače izvukli. Primera radi, ja sam za svoju jaknu izvukla broj 40, umesto standardnog broja 38. Neće vam biti potrebni svi krojni delovi, pa prekopirajte sledeće: prednji gornji panel (1), zadnji gornji panel (2), prednji rukav (3), zadnji rukav (4), prednji panel suknje (5) i zadnji panel suknje (6). Takođe, nećete koristiti cele panele suknje, pa možete prekopirati samo gornje delove panela, u visini od 15ak cm.
Uklonite dodatke za šavove sa svih krojnih delova, koji su široki 1.5 cm. Obratite pažnju na to da zadnji gornji panel (2) nema dodatak za šavove duže linije pregiba, pa ovaj deo kroja ne treba menjati. 

Nora is a form fitting dress pattern, but we’re making a jacket, which requires some ease. So trace the pattern one size larger than you’d normally trace. In my case, I traced size 40 instead of usual 38. You will not need all the pattern pieces, trace the following pieces: Front top (1), Back top (2), Front sleeve (3), Back sleeve (4), Front skirt panel (5), and Back skirt panel (6). Note that you won’t need the whole skirt panel pieces - you can trace the top parts of them, around 15cm tall.

Remove the seam allowances from all the pieces. The seam allowances are 1.5cm wide. Note that the Back top (2) does not have seam allowance added along the fold line. So, you should not alter that part of the pattern. All other pieces should have seam allowances removed along all sides.

Sledeći korak je pravljenje krojnih delova za bokove. Postavite prednji i zadnji panel suknje u položaj kao što je prikazano na slici ispod i spojte delove selotejpom. Nacrtajte liniju paralelnu sa gornjom ivicom kroja, udaljenu 13 cm od nje. Ovim ćete dobiti jaknu dužine do kuka. Ipak, ako želite da vaša jakna bude duža, možete krivu postaviti na visini koja vama odgovara. Isecite delove duž iscrtane krive.

Treba da odredite položaj bočnog šava na panelu. Ovo ćete izvesti tako što ćete uporediti dužinu donjih ivica prednjeg i zadnjeg gornjeg panela sa dužinom gornje ivice panela na boku. Iz kalkulacije treba izuzeti širinu brusni. Kada utvrdite dužine prednjeg i zadnjeg gornjeg panela, prenesite mere na panel na boku i formirajte novu brusnu na dobijenoj poziciji. Presecite panele na boku duž isctranih linija. Vodite računa da pri tom ne poremetite donju ivicu panela.

Now we’re going to make the peplum pieces. Position the front and back skirt panels as displayed on the picture. Fix them together using the cello tape. Going along the top line, measure 13cm and draw parallel curve. I designed this jacket to be short, high hip length. However, if you like your jackets to be longer, make the peplum as long as you feel comfortable with. Cut the peplum pieces along the drawn line.

You should determine the position of the side seam on the peplum. You’ll do this by comparing the width of the top front and back pieces with the peplum’s top line. Note that the top pieces have vertical darts, whose width should be reduced from the total width of top pieces. Once you determine the widths of the front and back peplum pieces mark these widths on the peplum. Cut the peplum pieces following the marks. Remember that the length of the bottom line of the peplum should not be changed.

U sledećem koraku treba izmeniti prednji gornji panel. Primetite da je centralna linija kroja zakrivljena ka vratu, dok naša jakna treba da ima pravu liniju duže te strane. Dodajte komad papira na centralnu liniju i ispravite liniju kroja. Isecite kroj duž nove linije.

Now you should alter the front top pattern piece. Note that the lateral side of the pattern is curved, and our jacket should have straight line on that side. Attach a piece of paper to the lateral side of the pattern piece and straighten the lateral side. Cut the pattern along the drawn line.

Spojte selotejpom prednji gornji panel i prednji panel na boku, tako da formiraju pravu liniju duž centralne linije kroja. Premerite dužinu dobijene linije - u mom slučaju, duga je oko 52cm. Isecite traku papira: 5 cm široku i par cm dužu od premerene dužine. Dobijena traka će predstavljati prednji panel za kopčanje.

Join together the front top piece and the front peplum piece, so that they form a straight line on the lateral side. Measure the length of the lateral line. In my case, it’s arround 52cm long. Now cut a strip of paper: 5cm wide and few centimeters longer than the measured length (in my case, around 55cm). This will be the front band.

Spojte prednje kopčanje, prednji gornji panel, prednji rukav, zadnji rukav i zadnji gornji panel kao što je prikazano na slici ispod. Prepravite okovratnik kao što je prikazano na slici. Iskrojte delove duž nove linije okovratnika.

Now join together the front band, front top piece, front sleeve, back sleeve and back top panel as  shown on the picture. You should redraw the neckline curve as shown bellow. Cut the pattern pieces along the marked curve.

U sledećem koraku bi trebalo da napravite kroj za rusku kragnu. Izmerite obim okovratnika i isecite traku papira, dužine obima okovratnika i širine 3-4cm. Presecite traku po visini na par mesta, kao što je prikazano na slici. Preklopite presečene delove otprilike po 3mm, kako biste formirali krivinu. Kada dobijete željeni oblik, fiksirajte delove na mestu selotejpom. Više o ovoj tehnici možete pročitati na Šerinom blogu.

You should make a pattern for a mandarin collar. Measure the neckline circumference and cut a strip of fabric that’s as long as the circumference of the neckline is, 3 - 4cm wide. Slash the strip on few places as shown on the picture. Overlap the slashed pieces together around 3mm to create a curvature. Finally, stick the pieces together using the cello tape. You can read more on this technique on Sherry's blog.

Izmerite dužinu ruke, mereći od vrata preko ramena. Takođe, izmerite širinu rukava oko zgloba šake. Postavite krojne delove rukava u položaj prikazan na slici ispod. Produžite krojne delove do potrebne dužine rukava i iscrtajte bočne ivice rukava.

Using the measuring tape, measure the length of the sleeves. Also, measure the width of the sleeves along the wrist. Position the sleeve pattern pieces as displayed on the picture and lengthen them so that the total length matches the measured length of the sleeves. Redraw the sleeves.

Nacrtajte liniju paralelnu sa linijom poruba rukava, udaljenu 12cm (ili manje) od nje. Deo rukava ispod označene linije predstavlja manžetnu. 

Draw the line parallel to the bottom sleeve line, distanced 12cm (or less) from it. This will be the sleeve cuff. 

U ovom momentu, savetujem vas da napravite test kroj, pošto je veoma bitno da napravite sve potrebne korekcije na kroju pre no što počnete da šijete. Prekopirajte sve korekcije na papirni kroj.

Nakon korekcija kroja, dodatno izmenite šnit tako da uključuje princes šavove na prednjim i zadnjim delovima. Ukoliko volite da vaš papirni kroj ima uključene i dodatke za šavove, sada je vreme da ih dodate. Takođe, imajte na umu da ćete jaknu porubiti koristeći traku materijala, ukoso iskrojenu, tako da vam neće biti potrebni dodatno široki dodaci za šavove duž linije poruba.

I advise you to make a muslin at this stage – it’s essential to test and true the pattern. Trace all the corrections to your pattern.

After making corrections on your pattern, alter it further more so that it incorporates princess seams. 

If you like having seam allowances on your pattern, you should add them now. Note that you will hem the jacket using a strip of bias cut fabric, hence you will not need extra wide SAs at the bottom of the peplum pieces.

Potreban materijal i pozamanterija:

• Materijal: 1.8m x 1.4m
• Paspul traka: oko 8m
• Rasferšlus za jaknu: 55cm
• Lepljivo platno srednje debljine

Krojenje tkanine:

• Gornji prednji srednji panel - 2x
• Gornji prednji bočni panel - 2x
• Gornji zadnji srednji panel - 1x sa pregibom tkanine
• Gornji zadnji bočni panel - 2x
• Prednji panel boka - 2x
• Zadnji panel boka - 1x sa pregibom tkanine
• Prednje kopčanje - 4x
• Kragna - 2x sa pregibom tkanine
• Prednji rukav - 2x
• Zadnji rukac - 2x
• Manžetna rukava - 2x sa pregibom tkanine
• Kosa traka za porub, širine 5cm (+ dodaci za šavove)
• Kosa traka za pojas, širine 5cm (+ dodaci za šavove)

Prilikom krojenja materijala, postavite krojne delove tako da vam ostane dovoljno materijala za krojenje dugih kosih traka.

Fabric and notions

• Fashion fabric: 1.8m x 1.4m
• Bias band: around 8m
• Jacket zipper: 55cm long
• Fusible interfacing 

Cutting the fabric

• Top center front panel – cut 2x
• Top side front panel – cut 2x
• Top center back panel – cut 1x on fold
• Top side bck panel – cut 2x
• Front peplum – cut 2x
• Back peplum – cut 1x on fold
• Front band – cut 4x
• Collar – cut 2x on fold
• Front sleeve – cut 2x
• Back sleeve – cut 2x
• Sleeve cuff – cut 2x on fold
• Bias band for hemline, 5cm wide (+ SAs)
• Bias band for belt, 5cm wide (+ SAs)

When cutting the fabric, arrange the pattern pieces in a manner that leaves you enough leftover fabric for cutting long bias strips.