Jedna za mog dragog / One for my baby

U prethodnom postu sam pomenula da sam se oprobala u šivenju muške garderobe. Tačnije, sašila sam košulju za svog muža (hm... tehnički gledano, još uvek mi je dečko, ali ja bih ga pre nazvala muž; uostalom, samo par dana nas deli od te tehnikalije). Ranije nisam imala priliku da šijem mušku garderobu. Zapravo jesam imala priliku, ali sam je uspešno izbegavala – tata me je više puta pitao kada ću njemu da sašijem košulju, ali sam se uvek pravdala da šivenje muške i ženske garderobe nije isto. Ne, nije isto, ali realno gledano, konstrukcija muške košulje se tek neznatno razlikuje u konstrukcije ženske bluze. Bila sam sebična, i ne stidim se toga! Verujem da će me mnogi od vas razumeti kada kažem da šivenje za druge ljude najčešće nije ni malo zanimljivo. Ovaj put sam napravila ustupak, jer sam želela da poklonim D. nešto što je veoma intimno i lično, a da istovremeno bude i veoma praktično. Garderoba je uvek praktična, a još ako je sami napravite, onda to i te kako spada u kategoriju intimnog i ličnog. U svakom slučaju, on se nije bunio, i nije mu bila nezamisliva ideja da nosi košulju iz domaće radinosti, tako da sam imala idealne uslove. Na sve to, moram da se pohvalim da je D. prilično zahvalan za saradnju – nije imao neke posebne zahteve, bio je pun poverenja da ću ja to uraditi besprekorno dobro, i nije tražio ni jednu prepravku, čak ni kada sam ja predlagala da ispravimo neke detalje koji nisu ispali savršeni. Milina!

I mentioned in the previous post I tried sewing men’s clothes. More precisely, I made a shirt for my husband (hm… technically, he’s still my boyfriend, but I prefer calling him hubby; after all it’s just a minor technicality that will change in a few days). I haven’t had an opportunity to sew men’s clothes before. Well, actually, I did have an opportunity, but I avoided it well – my dad asked me several times to make him a shirt, and I always excused myself, explaining that sewing men’s and women’s clothes weren’t the same thing. Well, it’s not the same thing, but to be honest, construction of a men’s shirt isn’t all that different from a construction of a women’s blouse. I was selfish, and I am not ashamed! I believe many of you will understand me when I say that sewing for others isn’t fun at all. I made an exception this time because I wanted to give a present to D., something that would be intimate and personal, yet practical. Well, wardrobe is always practical, and when you make it yourself it becomes intimate and personal. Anyways, he had nothing against it, and he was OK with the idea of wearing something that was home - made, so I had ideal conditions. I also have to point out that D. was very cooperative – he didn’t have any special demands, he believed I would sew the shirt perfectly, and he didn’t ask for any alterations, not even when I suggested fixing some details that didn’t turn out perfect. Such a joy!

Odabrali smo model iz Burde 10/2005, #133. Imala sam par dilema pre samog šivenja:

                        

We chose a model from BWOF 10/2005, #133. I did have a few doubts before I started sewing:

•  Veličina kroja – ispostavilo se da Burda daje muške krojeve do veličine 54. Sledeća veličina, 56 - koja odgovara D. nije ni odštampana na krojnom listu. Ovaj problem ima relativno jednostavno rešenje, koje zahteva malo vremena i strpljenja. Ukoliko ispred sebe imate kroj koji je dat u više veličina, sigurno ste primetili da su veličine štampane kao paralelne linije i krive sa ravnomernim razmacima, koje se tek ponegde ukrštaju. Na takvom krojnom listu možete lako docrtati veću ili manju veličinu, prateći konture štampanog kroja i razmake između dve susedne veličine. Ja sam počinjala uvek od ćoškova kroja, određivala položaj tačaka u njima, i zatim crtala konture nove veličine. Crtala sam direktno na krojnom listu – veličina više mi nikad neće zasmetati, a ko zna, možda mi još koji put zatreba.
  
  
  Size of the pattern – it turned out Burda’s largest pattern was size 54. The next size that suited D. wasn’t even printed on a pattern sheet. Well this problem has a relatively simple solution, that asks for some time and patience. If you have a multi sized pattern, you must have noticed that different sizes were printed as equidistant parallel lines and curves that cross each other at some points. On this kind of pattern sheet you can easily draw a bigger or smaller size, by following contours of the printed pattern and distances between two neighboring sizes. I started from the pattern’s corners, defined their positions and then draw contours of the new size. I drew directly on the pattern sheet .
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  
  ·         I opet, veličina kroja  - D. je prilično visok i krupan (visok je skoro 2m), a standardna visina za muškarce prema Burdinim merama je 186cm, pa je bilo neophodno produžiti prsluk i rukave kroja kako bi se dobila adekvatna veličina. Prsluk sam produžila za 3 cm – po 1.5cm u visini grudi i struka; rukave sam takođe produžila za 3 cm, ali mislim da je trebalo da rukavi budu kraći, tako da ću sledeći put oduzeti 1.5 cm od dužine rukava. Dodatno, poređenjem sa kupljenim košuljama koje D. ima, shvatila sam da bi bilo zgodno proširiti kroj na leđima za po 1 cm sa svake strane, kao i dodati falte na zadnjem delu, koje originalan kroj nije imao. Ispostavilo se da poslednja izmena nije nužno neophodna, ali košulja i sa njima lepo izgleda.
  
  Once again – size of the pattern. D. is quite tall (almost 2m tall), and standard men’s height according to Burda is 186cm, so I needed to lenghten body and sleeves of the pattern to get an adequate size. I lengthened the body by 3cm – 1.5cm on each chest and waist; the sleeves were lenthened also by 3cm, but I think they might have benn shorter, so I’ll reduce 1.5cm from the sleeve length the next time I sew a shirt to D. Additionaly, I compared the pattern to a RTW shirt and then made the back wider by 1cm on each side; I also added back pleats, that the original pattern didn’t have. It turned out the last alteration wasn’t necessary, however the shirt looked good even with these changes.
  
  
  
  
  
  ·         Ojačanje kragne – sigurno ste primetili da su kragne na muškim košuljama mnogo čvršće i kuće nego na ženskim košuljama. Kvalitetnije košulje često imaju i fišbajne koje dodatno fiksiraju spiceve na kragni i drže im formu. Morala sam da nađem načina da ojačam kragnu, znajući da mi standardno lepljivo platno neće biti dovoljno. Ovaj problem sam rešila platnom pod nazivom angin (kod nas se najčešće koristi za šivenje jastuka). Dakle, iskrojila sam jedan sloj kragne od angina bez dodataka za šavove. Angin sam umetnula u kragnu, između dva sloja od originalnog platna, što je kragni dalo dovoljnu čvrstinu i formu. 
  
  Collar enforcement – you must have noticed that collars on men’s shirts are much stiffer and sturdier than collars on women’s shirts. The shirts of a good quality even have boning built into the collars that keep their form. I needed to find a way to enforce the collar, knowing that classic fusible interfacing wouldn’t be enough. I solved the problem by using a very stiff cotton  (I don't know how it is called in English, it is usually used for sewing pillows). So, I cut a single layer of collar in this fabric with no SAs. I sandwiched the cotton between two layers of fashion fabric, which gave the collar nice form and sturdiness.
  
  
  ·       Šlic na rukavu – do sada nisam imala prilike da šlic na rukavu obradim onako kako se to radi na muškim košuljama. No, pratila sam tutorijale po internetu i zaključila da ovo ne bi trebalo da bude prevelik problem, tako da sam hrabro krenula u šivenje. Zaista, nije nikakav problem sašiti lep i uredan šlic.
  
  A sleeve slit - so far, I haven't sewn a sleeve slit the way it's done on men's shirt. But, I read a lot of tutorials on the internet and figured it wouldn't be that hard to do it. And really, it's quite easy to sew a nice, neat sleeve slit.

I tako se D. našao u ovom postu, iako nisam imala nameru da ga delim sa vama :). On je zadovoljan, juče je ponosno nosio novu košulju, a ja sam cvrkutala dok se hvalio kako sam je ja napravila. Već sam iskrojila materijal za još jednu, a pride smo nakupovali još nekoliko materijala za košulje, tako da već nazirem da će D. postati redovan maneken Štepalice (što mu ne pada teško, jer se kao mlađi bavio manekenstvom; baš znam da odaberem muškarca!).

And that's how D. appeared in this post, even tough I had no intention to share him with you :). He's pleased, he wore proudly his new shirt yesterday, and I was shining while he bragged around that I had made the shirt. I already cut the fabric for another shirt, and we bought few more shirt fabrics, so I can tell D. will become a regular model of Stepalica (this won't be a problem to him, since he used to be a model when he was younger; I know how to pick a guy!).