Haljina - riblja kost / The chevron dress

Nisam se oglašavala prilično dugo. Iskreno, nisam mnogo ni šila, bila sam prilično preokupirana poslom i nekim novitetima iz tog domena za koje se pripremam (više o tome u nekom od narednih postova). Ipak, uspela sam da se nateram da sašijem zanimljivu haljinu. 

I haven't posted in a while. To be honest, I haven't sewn much, I was rather preoccupied by work and some new things I'm planning to work on (more on that in some of the future posts). However, I did manage to make an interesting dress.

Davno sam kupila veoma neobičan materijal - taft sa prozirnim prugama u organdin tkanju. Materijal deluje blago pogužvan i gotovo da ima reljefnu teksturu, pa mi je bio baš zanimljiv kada sam ga videla. Uzela sam 2m, ne znajući šta bih tačno napravila od njega. U više navrata sam ga zagledala, dobijala i gubila inspiraciju da ga pretočim u neku lepu haljinu, i tako je par godina odležao u ormanu. Ponajviše mi je smetala njegova tekstura, kao i osećaj tkanine na koži - u pitanju je sintetika, tako da užareni grubi taft nije baš najbolji izbor za udobnu letnju garderobu. 

I bought an unusual fabric ages ago - it's a taffeta with transparent striped in organza weave. The fabric is slightly wrinkled and has a textured feel to it, it was really interesting to me when I saw it. I bought 2m with no idea of what I'd make of it. I did consider using it for several different projects, but it never felt right, so it sat in the stash for few years. I had mixed feelings about it, since the fibers were all synthetic, and it felt bad next to the skin. 

Konačno, pade mi na pamet da iskoristim ono najlepše na materijalu - organdin pruge - i dodatno ih naglasim uklapanjem u šaru riblje kosti. Koristila sam već poznati kroj iz Burde 09/2012, #134, s kojim sam se oprobala šijući ovu haljinu. Kroj je bio sasvim pogodan za pravljenje riblje kosti, a ja ga jako volim, između ostalog, i zbog toga što ima džepove. Bočne panele na haljini sam postavljala tako da pruge budu horizontalne, što je dodatno naglasilo lep kroj haljine.

Finally, it occured to me to use the best feature of the fabric - the organza stripes - and accentuate them more by arranging them into chevron pattern. I used a familiar pattern from Burda Style 09/2012, #134, I used for sewing this dress. The pattern was perfect for sewing chevron, and I like it even more because it has pockets. The side panels have horizontal stripes, which additionally emphasizes the beautiful pattern.

Već sam pisala o tehnici koju koristim za uklapanje pruga kod šivenja riblje kosti, pa ako vas zanima, pročitajte ovaj članak (opisana tehnika je zgodna za uklapanje prugastih i karo materijala, bez obzira na pravac linija).

I wrote about the technique I use when sewing stripes in chevron pattern, so read this post if you're interested in it (this technique can be used when aligning stripes and checkers, no matter what stripe direction you're setting).

Unapred se izvinjavam zbog loših slika - fotografisala sam noću, veče pre no što sam poslala haljinu na put, pa je ovo najbolje što imam da vam pokažem.

Sorry for the lousy photos - I snapped them a night before I sent the dress to a trip, and this is the best I can show you at the moment.

Da bih zaštitila kožu od užarenog tafta, morala sam celu da je postavim. Postava u kontrastnoj boji je dodatno naglasila providne pruge (koje su tamno ljubičaste, kao i ostatak materijala). Rešila sam da postavu i spoljni materijal šijem kao jedan sloj tkanine. Na ovaj način sam prikrila dodatke za šavove, koji bi se provideli kroz organdin pruge (gledano s lica haljine), ali sam ih zato učinila veoma upadljivim sa naličja haljine. Da bih malo ulepšala izgled haljine s naličja, sve dodatke za šavove sam paspulirala. Sve ovo je dodatno produžilo izradu haljine, ali je zato krajnji rezultat više nego dobar. 

I had to line the dress to protect the skin from the taffeta fabric. A lining in contrasting color made the transparent organza stripes mode prominent (they are originally deep purple, like the rest of the fabric). I decided to sew the shell fabric and the lining as a single layer. This way I hid the SAs that would be visible through the organza stripes when looked from the face of the dress. On the other hand, this way the SAs were completely exposed on the inside of the dress, therefore I finished them with bias band. All this took some extra time, but the end result was more than good.

Osim vremena potrebnog da sašijem haljinu, imala sam i malu peripetiju sa prišivanjem skrivenog rajsferšlusa. Zbog duplog sloja tkanine nisam mogla lepo da priđem iglom ivici rajsferšlusa, pa sam morala više puta da popravljam šav. Ovo je posebno bilo komplikovano na struku, gde se presecaju uzdužni i horizontalni šavovi, i gde je tkanina još deblja. Na kraju, ne mogu reći da je rajsferšlus 100% nevidljiv, ali mislim da bolje od urađenog nisam mogla da izvedem.

I had a minor issue with an invisible zipper. Since I sewed a double layer of fabric, I couldn't set a needle as close to the zipper teeth as it should have been. This was especially difficult at the waist, where horizontal and vertical seams meet, thus making the fabric even thicker. Finally, I can't say the zipper is 100% invisible, but I think it's the best I could do.