Rasprodaja kroja za Nugat haljinu / The Nougat dress sales

Dragi čitaoci, želim da vas obavestim da je u toku veliko sniženje cene kroja za Nugat haljinu, koje traje od danas, 29. Novembra 2013. do ponedeljka, 2. Decembra 2013. Tokom ova četiri dana kroj možete kupiti po ceni od 300 din, odnosno sa sniženjem od 40%! Za sve informacije o kupovini kroja, molim vas da mi pišete na adresu anajan.stepalica[at]gmail[dot]com.

Dear readers, I'm thrilled to inform you that there's a great sales of the Nougat dress pattern, that starts today, November 29th 2013 and end on Monday, December 2nd 2013. During these four days you can buy the pattern with 40% discount, meaning for $7.18! Visit my Etsy shop Stepalica Patterns and buy your copy of the Nougat dress pattern.

Takodje, pozivam vas da pogledate par blogova gde možete videti sašivene ili Nugat haljine koje su u procesu šivenja.

I also invite you to visit some blogs where you can find finished or in progress variations of the Nougat dress.

HANDMADE BY CAROLYN

Karolin je prva koja je napravila haljinu po mom kroju. Njena snežno bela varijacija haljine je ispala fenomenalna! Uz divne slike njene haljine, možete naći i detaljnu kritiku kroja.

Karolin je kritiku kroja postavila i na sajt Pattern Review.

Carolyn was first to make the dress using my pattern. Her snow white variation of the dress turned out gorgeous! Along with pictures of her dress, you can find a detailed review of the pattern on her blog.

She also posted the pattern review to Pattern Review website.

EVERYTHING JUST SEW

Džudi polako ali sigurno napreduje sa svojom verzijom Nugat haljine. Ono što je sjajno kod njenih članaka su detaljni komentari na račun kroja, kao i saveti o tome kako da pojednostavite šivenje, i na šta da obratite pažnju prilikom rada. Nestrpljivo očekujem njen sledeći post!

Judy's making a slow but steady progress on her version of the Nougat dress. What's great about her posts are the detailed comments on the pattern, along with her advice on how to make the sewing simpler and what to pay attention to during the work. I'm looking forward to her next post!

STARCROSS SEWING

Stefani je sebi zadala veoma zanimljiv izazov - godinu dana će šiti koristeći samo krojeve nezavisnih izdavača. Uz slike svojih kreacija, daje detaljne komentare i kritike krojeva koje je koristila, a pride možete i malo bliže da upoznate ljude koji stoje iza svake od kompanija čije krojeve oprobava. Novembar 2013. je posvećen Nugat haljini. Dok čekamo slike njene verzije, pročitajte intervju koji sam dala za njen blog, i prijavite se za nagradnu igru - možda osvojite kroj za Nugat haljinu!

Stephanie challenged herself to sew only indie patterns for a year. Along with pictures of her creations she posts detailed comments and reviews on the patterns she uses, and you can get to know the people who stands behind the pattern labels she's using. She chose Nougat dress for November 2013. While waiting for the pictures of her variation, read an interview I gave for her blog, and apply for the giveaway - you might win the Nougat dress pattern!

Velika nagradna igra! / The great pattern giveaway!

 

Dragi čitaoci, već neko vreme smišljam čime bih mogla da vas nagradim za lojalnost i redovno posećivanje Štepalice, ali i da vas sve častim zbog sve većeg broja ljudi koji stižu na ovu adresu. A onda sam shvatila da imam pravu stvar za sve ljubitelje šivenja! Pre neki dan sam organizovala svoje skladište krojeva i shvatila da imam previše njih koje nikada neću iskoristiti. Zapravo, neke od njih sam već iskoristila, ali mnogi su potpuno netaknuti. Svi su izvađeni iz časopisa poput Burde, španskog Patrones, italijanskog La Mia Boutique, i još par drugih. Veličine se kreću od 36 - 42, zavisno od perioda kada sam ih vadila, ili pak od toga za koji odevni predmet su. Krojeva ima baš dosta, i volela bih da odu u ruke nekoga ko ih zaista želi. Alternativa tome je da ih bacim, što je za šnajderku gotovo kao jeres. 

Dear readers, I've been thinking of a way to thank you for your loyalty and your regular visits to Stepalica, and I've been looking for a way to celebrate the increasing number of the people who're coming to this blog. Then I realized I had just the right thing for all sewing enthusiasts! A few days ago I organized my patterns and realized there were too many of those I wouldn't ever use. I have already used some of them, but many of them are intact. They're all traced from magazines like Burda Style, Spanish Patrones, Italian La Mia Boutique, and a few more others that I have. The sizes range from 36 to 42, depending on when I traced them and the garment type they're for. There is a lot of patterns and I'd like to send them to someone who really wants them. The alternative is to throw them away which is equal to heresy for a seamstress.

Dakle, evo pravila nagradne igre:

• Igra je internacionalna, mogu da učestvuju svi, bez obzira na to odakle su i gde žive.
• Jedan učesnik može da dobije i više krojeva.
• Slike krojeva i njihov kraći opis (iz kog je časopisa, koja je veličina, da li sam pravila izmene na kroju, i slično) nalaze se u albumu na mom Pinterest nalogu.
• Prijavite se za krojeve postavljanjem komentara na sliku kroja na Pinterestu. Ako želite više krojeva, moraćete da postavite komentar na svaki od njih. Molim vas, postavite komentare, nemojte samo lajkovati slike - lajkove neću uzeti u obzir.
• Pošto ću krojeve morati da šaljem poštom, a ima ih dosta, tražim od primaoca kroja (ili krojeva) da plati troškove poštarine. O uslovima i načinu plaćanja poštarine ćemo se dogovoriti kada za to dođe vreme. 
• Igra je otvorena do kraja godine. Početkom Januara ću izvlačiti dobitnike. Ukoliko neki od krojeva ne budu izabrani do tada, dobiće ih prva osoba koja se za njih prijavi.
• Molim vas, postavite link ka ovom postu na svom blogu, ili Fejsbuk nalogu, Tviteru, Pinterestu, ili bilo kojoj drugoj društvenoj mreži.
• Ukoliko već niste, postanite pratilac mog bloga. Za to imate više opcija: potražite me preko Bloglovin, Google+, NetworkedBlogs, lajkujte moju Fejsbuk stranicu, preko email obaveštenja, ili Bloggera. 

So, here are the giveaway rules:

• The giveaway is international, anyone from anywhere around the globe can participate.
• One participant can get more than one pattern.
• I posted the patterns' pictures and their brief descriptions (magazine issue, size and my alterations) to a Pinterest board.
• Apply by commenting on a picture of the desired pattern. If you want to apply for more than one pattern, you'll have to comment on each of them. Please note that I won't take likes under account, so please comment the picture
• Since I'll have to send the patterns by mail, and there is a lot of them, I will ask the recipient to pay for the shipping. We will discuss about this when the time comes, since the shipping fee will depend on weight of the package. 
• The giveaway will be opened till the end of the year. I'll announce the winners in January. If some of the patterns remain unpicked after the giveaway, I'll send them to a first person who applies for. 
• Please, share the link to this post on your blog, Facebook account, Twitter, Pinterest or any other social network.
• If you haven't followed my blog so far, please do so now. You have several options for this: Bloglovin, Google+, NetworkedBlogs, by liking my Facebook page, assigning by email or Blogger. 

Dok god je igra otvorena, držaću sa desne strane bloga baner sa linkom na Pinterest album, kako biste ga lakše pronašli. S druge strane, svaka slika kroja na Pinterestu biće linkovana na ovaj post. 

While the giveaway is open I'll keep on the right side of the blog a giveaway banner linked to the Pinterest board.

Krpljenje farmerki / Mending jeans

Još jedan tutorijal je pred vama - ovih dana sam baš raspoložena za pisanje instrukcija...

Ovaj put, trebalo je da zakrpim par starih farmerki, koje su se pocepale na kolenima, a tamo gde platno nije potpuno poderano, niti su se istanjile i proredile. Tehnika koju koristim u ovakvim situacijama nije baš od onih koje će garderobi vratiti stari sjaj, budući da se zakpre veoma vide. Smisao ove popravke je da spreči dalje cepanje platna, da zatvori postojeće rupe, i još malo produži život pantalona.

Ova metoda zgodna je za roditelje koji imaju nestašnu decu, koja munjevitom brzinom cepaju svoju odeću, čim izađu napolje. Takođe, zgodna je i za sve one koji imaju stari par pantalona  koje su udobne za nošenje po kući, ili u bašti - koje ne moraju da budu posebno lepe, ali je poželjno da budu uredne i u jednom komadu.

Na slici ispod možete videti kako pantalone izgledaju pre i posle krpljenja.

Here's another tutorial - I've been in a mood for writing instructions these days...

This time, I had to mend a pair of old jeans that got torn on knees, and the fabric got so thin and sparse. The technique I use in these situations won't bring the old glow to the jeans, since the mending is quite visible. The point of the mending is to prevent further tearing of the fabric, to close existing holes in it, and to lengthen the life of the pants a bit.

The technique can be useful to the parents who have lively kids that easily tear their clothes. Or to those who have an old pair of comfy pants that can be worn in house or while gardening - the ones that do not need to be extremely fancy, but that should be neat and in one piece.

You can see on the picture below how the pants look before and after the mending.

Dakle, za ovakvo krpljenje potreban je komat tanke tkanine, poželjno je da bude u boji što sličnijoj boji farmerica. Ja često koristim i ostatke postave, a sada sam imala parče muslina koje je odlično poslužilo svrsi.

You'll need a piece of thin fabric, in a color that is similar to the one of the pants. I use lining remnants, but now I had a piece of georgette that served the purpose well.

Zakrpu postavim na naličje materijala i uhvatim špenadlama za nogavicu pantalona. Kako se ivice materijala ne bi parale, malo ih podvijem ka unutra. Potom zakrpu ovlaš rukom prišijem za nogavicu, kako bih mogla da uklonim špenadle.

I put the patch to the wrong side of the leg, and pinned the layers together. I folded the raw edges of the patch inwards so that it doesn't fray. I hand basted the patch to the leg and removed the pins.

Rupu u tkanini malo rukom pritvorim, a ukoliko je to moguće, potpuno je i zatvorim. Bitno je da se teksas ne deformiše mnogo ovim postupkom, dok materijal s donje strane može biti i pogužvan.

I slightly closed the hole in the fabric. When possible, I close the hole entirely. What's important is to not deform the denim while mending the hole. On the other side, it doesn't mind if the patch fabric wrinkles.

Koncem u odgovarajućoj boji i cik-cak bodom dužine 1.5 mm štepam s lica materijala niz paralelnih linija tako da prekrijem celu površinu obuhvaćeni zakrpom koja stoji s naličja.

Using a thread in matching color and 1.5 mm long zick-zack stitch I make lines of parallel stitches that should cover the whole surface covered by the patch.

Kada završim sa štepanjem uzdužnih linija, po potrebi napravim i par poprečnih, na mestima gde je materijal najviše bio pocepan - time dodatno ojačam platno i dodatno zatvorim eventualnu rupu koja je preostala. 

Once the stitching is finished, I make several cross stitches if needed, on places where the fabric was torn the most - this additionally strengthens the fabric and closes the hole in it.

Porubljivanje farmerki / Hemming jeans

Danas sam skraćivala farmerke, pa eto zgodne prilike da vam pokažem tehniku koju primenjujem kada je teksas previše debeo da bih ga duplo podvijenog provukla kroz mašinu. Moram da napomenem da ja nisam nešto posebno fascinirana idejom da originalan porub mora ostati netaknut, kao ni tehnikama koje se primenjuju u ovu svrhu, jer tako porubljene pantalone meni deluju užasno neuredne.

I shortened legs on a pair of jeans today and thought I might show you the technique I use whenever the jeans is too thick to run it through machine when it's double folded. I have to say I'm not too thrilled with an idea that an original hemming of the jeans has to stay intact nor with the techniques that are used for this purpose, since the pants shortened that way don't look particularly neat to me.

Ja volim da uredno i lepo porubim pantalone - otsečem višak dužine s dna nogavice, i ostavim 2 cm dužine za porub. Zatim prišijem paspul traku za lice nogavice i podvijem traku ka naličju nogavice. Paspul traka je tu iz dva razloga - sakriva neobrađenu ivicu nogavice, i ne dodaje platnu debljinu, jer je teksas inače prilično debeo i obične kućne mašine često nemaju dovoljno prostora ispod papučice, kao ni dovoljno jake motore za šivenje trostruko podvijenog platna ove debljine. Zamislite tek delove na bočnim spojevima nogavica - u preseku sa dulpo podvijenim porubom, zadebljanje tkanine ume da bude i po 1 cm. 

Obično koristim ostatke paspul trake koje imam u svojim zalihama pozamanterije, a porub u kontrastnoj boji mi uvek deluje zanimljiv. 

I like having a pair of neatly hemmed jeans - I cut off the extra length from legs, leaving 2 cm of length for hemming. Then I sew on a cotton bias band to the right side of the leg and fold the band inwards, to the wrong side. The bias band has a double purpose - it hides a raw edge of the leg and it doesn't add extra thickness to the denim that's already too thick. Home sewing machines usually don't have enough space below the presser foot, nor strong enough engines for sewing a denim that's in three layers. Think of all the side seams of the legs crossed with the double folded hem - the bulk can be up to 1 cm thick on these parts. 

I usually use bias band remnants from my notions stash; a hem in a contrasting color is always interesting to me.

Nogavicu potom podvijem ka unutra za 2 cm i dobro prepeglam pregib.

I fold the hem inwards by 2 cm and press the fold well.

Potom proštepam porub, šijući tik uz ivicu poruba, kao što je prikazano na slici. Koristim konac u odgovarajućoj boji, i bod dužine 3 - 3.5 mm, zavisno od dužine štepa na ostatku farmerica. 

Then I topstitch the hemline, by sewing as close as possible to the raw edge. I use a thread in a corresponding color and a 3 - 3.5 mm long stitch, depending on length of the original stitching.

Uglavljivanje rukava na bluzi / Setting in a sleeve on a blouse

Već sam na blogu objavila tutorijal koji opisuje kako se uglavljuje rukav, ali se taj tutorijal odnosi na deblje materijale, za kapute i jakne. Pošto primenjujem malo drugačiju tehniku kada radim sa tankim materijalima, pomislih kako ne bi bilo loše da vam pokažem još par caka.

I've already written a tutorial about setting in a sleeve, but that tut is related to thick fabrics used for coats and jackets. Since I use a slightly different technique when working with light fabrics, I thought it wouldn't hurt to show you a few more tricks.

Kada iskrojite rukav, prenesite oznake sa kugle rukava na materijal:

• Tačku spajanja rukava sa ramenim šavom
• Tačku spajanja rukava sa prednjim panelom prsluka
• Tačke između kojih treba nabirati kuglu rukava

Koristeći najduži bod na mašini, proštepajte dva reda šava uz ivicu kugle rukava, a između tačaka za nabiranje kugle. Ostavite poduže končiće na oba kraja štepa.

When sleeve is cut, mark the following notches on your fabric:

• The notch where sleeve is joined to the shoulder
• The notch where sleeve is joined to the front bodice
• Sleeve head ease markers

Using the longest stitch on your machine, run two rows of stitches on your sleeve's head, between the sleeve head ease markers. Leave long thread ends.

Postavljajući lice materijala prema licu materijala, poravnajte šav rukava sa bočnim šavom prsluka, pa špenadlama uhvatite zajedno slojeve tkanine, prateći krivinu otvora za rukav. Zaustavite se u tačkama obeleženim na rukavu, u kojima počinje nabiranje kugle rukava.

With right sides together, align the sleeve's seam with the bodice side seam and pin the pieces together, following the curvature of the armscye. Stop pinning at the points where the sleeve head should be gathered.

Spojte vrh kugle rukava sa ramenim šavom.

Zatim, povlačenjem niti konca, naberite kuglu rukava dok se dužina kugle rukava ne izjednači sa dužinom otvora za rukav na prsluku. Ravnomerno rasporedite nabore, vodeći računa da se nigde ne formiraju velike falte. Uhvatite slojeve materijala gustim nizom špenadli.

Savet: Kada nabirate kuglu rukava, uradite prvo prednju pa zadnju stranu rukava ili obrnuto.

Pin the top of the sleeve head to the shoulder seam.
Pull the threads on the stitch rows to gather the sleeve head. Keep pulling until the length of the sleeve head is equal to the length of the armscye. Spread the gathers along the sleeve head, making sure there are no folds. Pin the layers with a dense set of pins.
Tip: When gathering the sleeve head, work first on front than on the back side of the sleeve or vice versa.

Prišijte rukav za prsluk bluze, vodeći računa da šav ide malo ispod drugog šava za nabiranje, kako se konac ne bi video sa lica materijala. 

Otsecite konce koji vire. Obradite ivice kugle rukava i otvora za rukav zajedno, pa raspeglajte lepo rukav.

Savet: Slobodno možete šiti preko špenadli (dokle god su špenadle postavljene normalno u odnosu na pravac šava), ali štepajte polako, kako igla mašine ne bi udarila u špenadlu.

Sew the sleeve to the bodice, making sure your stitch runs just bellow the second row of the gathering stitch, so that the gathering stitch doesn't show on the right side of the fabric.
Cut off the loose threads and serge the SAa together.
Tip: You can sew over the pins (as long as the pins are perpendicular to the stitch line), but sew slowly so your needle doesn't hit the pin.

Haljina sa zmijskim printom / A snakeskin dress

Sećate li se haljine sa zmijskim printom, koju sam šila prošle godine? Obukla sam je jednom od kako sam je završila, i od onda sedi u ormanu, čekajući da je obučem. 

Remember the snakeskin dress I made last year? I've worn it once since I made it, and it's been sitting in my closet, waiting for me to wear it.

Razlog za to je za mene prilično stresan - od kako sam se razbolela prošlog leta, prilično sam se ugojila zbog posebnog režima ishrane na kom sam bila. Iako sam sada zdrava, i više nisam na dijeti, višak kilograma je i dalje tu, i podseća me na dane kada sam bila fit. Mada sam haljinu napravila prema ovim novim merama, nisam se usuđivala da je nosim, jer nisam uspevala da se izborim sa sopstvenim nesigurnostima. 

The reason for this is quite frustrating to me - since I got sick last summer, I've gained a lot of weight due to a specific diet I was on. Although I'm healthy now and not on diet anymore, the extra weight is still there, reminding me of the days when I was fit. I made the dress to fit my current weight, but I hesitated wearing it, as I wasn't able to cope with my own insecurities.

Iskreno, prošla sam kroz razne faze raspoloženja, i bilo je dana kada nisam podnosila da vidim sopstveni odraz u ogledalu. U periodu rekovalescencije, kada je haljina i nastala, bila sam posebno nervozna. Hronično sam izgledala premoreno, imala sam poveće podočnjake, ten mi se naprasno pogoršao, a lice preplavilo aknama. Neverovatno, ali čak i kosa je izgledala suvo i beživotno poput slame. U par navrata su pokušaji da se doteram završili u suzama i očaju. Preplavio bi me osećaj da nemam kontrolu nad svojim telom, i da sam nemoćna da zamaskiram, korigujem ili poboljšam svoj izgled. Na sve to, sva garderoba koju imam, i koju sam godinama šila ili kupovala, je postala tesna, i tek par stvari iz svog ormana mogu da obučem. Sve odevne kombinacije koje sam do tada pažljivo sastavljala su postale beskorisne i neupotrebljive, a ja sam mesecima uporno odbijala da pravim novu garderobu za ovu kilažu, plašeći se da se tako nikad neću nakaniti da smršam. 

Honestly, I've gone through various moods and there were days when I couldn't stand looking at my reflection in a mirror. During the healing period, when the dress was made, I was extremely nervous. I looked tired all the time, I had dark under-eye circles, my skin was covered with acne. Even my hair was dry and lifeless. A few of my attempts to dress up ended in tears and despair. I would get overwhelmed by a feeling of not having a control over my body and not being able to cover my skin flaws and enhance the way I looked. Along with that almost none of the clothes I had been making and buying for years was too tight for me to wear. My favorite outfits became useless, and for months I refused to sew some new garments, due to a fear it would demotivate me from losing weight.

No, vremenom se moje telo oporavilo, akne nestale, ten poboljšao, a kosa sinula. Još samo višak kilograma da sredim, pa da budem ona stara. Do tada, reših da ipak uživam u starim navikama da se doterujem, jer se sređena mnogo lepše osećam. I tako, konačno obukoh svoju zmijsku haljinu...

However, my body healed over time, the skin looked good again and the hair became all curly and shiny. I just need to slim down to be my old self. Until then, I've decided to enjoy my old habits of dressing up, because it makes me feel better. So, I've finally put on my snakeskin dress...

Da podsetim, haljina je napravljena od malo debljeg žerseja koji nije mnogo rastegljiv. Kako bih malo ublažila zmijski print, kombinovala sam materijal sa maslinastnozelenim pamukom, koji sam koristila za okovratnik, pojas i manžetne.

To remind you, the dress is made of a thick jersey, which isn't very stretchy. I combined it with an olive cotton in order to tame the print a bit. I used the cotton for neckline, waistband and sleeve cuffs.

Osnova za haljinu bio je kroj za Nora haljinu sa Burda Style sajta, kombinovana sa krojem za haljinu iz Burde 5/2011, #128, koje sam izmenila do neprepoznatljivosti. Detalje o kroju i prepravci istog pročitajte ovde.

A basis for the dress was Nora dress pattern from Burda Style, combined with a dress pattern from  Burda Style 5/2011, #128,  which I altered until they were unrecognizable. You can read more about the alterations here.

I, samo zato što mnogo volim ovaj blejzer (koji nisam ja šila), tu je i par slika da demnostriram kako sam stilizovala haljinu.

And just because I love this blazer (which I didn't make) so much I've added a few more photos to demonstrate how I styled the dress.