"S" kaput, deo 9 / The "S" coat, part 9

Pokazaću vam kako sam ušila rukave kaputa. 

I'll show you how I sewed the coat's sleeves.

Prvo sam špenadlama pričvrstila keder traku za manžetnu rukava, a zatim proštepala delove zajedno.

First I pinned the piping cord to the sleeve cuff. Then I stitched them together.

Zatim sam spojila manžetnu sa ostatkom rukava. Nakon štepanja sam raspeglala šavove.

After that I attached the sleeve cuff to the sleeve. I pressed the seams open after running them through the sewing machine.

Sašila sam rukav, presavila opšivak poruba ka unutra i prepeglala porub.

I made a sleeve, folded the hemline inwards, and pressed it well.

Kada uglavljujem rukave, koristim relativno jednostavan metod. Prvo namestim donji deo rukava i pričvrstim ga špenadlama za otvor rukava.

When setting in the sleeve, I use a relatively easy method. First I layout the lower part of the sleeve and pin it to the armscye.

Zatim špenadlama pričvrstim vrh kugle rukava za šav na ramenu.

Then I pin the sleeve's top to the shoulder seam of the armscye.

U sledećem koraku uhvatim rukav za otvor rukava na par mesta. Na slici ispod možete videti kako rukav pravi valove na mestim gde nije pričvršćen. To je zbog toga što kugla rukava ima veći obim od obima otvora za rukav.

In the next step I pin the sleeve to the armscye on a few points. You can see on the picture below how the sleeve forms waves on those parts where the pins are missing. This is due to the sleeve head's ease.

U sledećem koraku ispravljam formirane valove tako što koristim veliki broj šenadli koje gusto raspoređujem duž otvora rukava. Možete videti kako se rukav gotovo glatko uklapa u otvor rukava. Moram da napomenem - što je materijal tanji, to je gušći niz špenadli potreban da bi se rukav glatko uglavio.

In a next step I straighten the formed waves of the sleeve by pinning the sleeve to the armscye with a dense set of pins. You can see how the sleeve fits into the armhole smoothly. Note that you'll need more pins for thinner fabrics.

Evo kako izgleda rukav koji je potpuno uglavljen u otvor rukava, pre šivenja.

Here's how the sleeve looks when it's completely pinned to the armhole.

I evo kako izgleda ušiven rukav. Primetite da se valovi vide kada se špenadle sklone, ali je rukav svejedno glatko uglavljen i nema nabora duž linije šava.

And here's how it looks after running it through the sewing machine. Note that the waves can be seen on the sleeve, while the sleeve is smoothly sewed to the armhole, without any puckering.

Konačno, evo kako rukav izgleda spolja, pre peglanja.

Finally, here's how the sleeve looks from the right side, before pressing the seams.

Evo šta još treba da uradim na kaputu:

• Da prišijem kragnu,
• Da prišijem naramenice, 
• Da spojim delove postave,
• Da prišijem postavu za kaput,
• Da prišijem dugmad.

Here's what's left to do on a coat:

• To attach a collar,
• To sew in shoulder pads,
• To sew together lining pieces,
• To attach the lining to the coat,
• To sew in buttons.

"S" kaput, deo 8 / The "S" coat, part 8

Paspulirane rupice za dugmad se šiju kao i paspulirani džepovi. Koristim keder traku za paspuliranje. Pokazaću vam na parčetu materijala kako se prave ovakve rupice za dugmad.

Prvo sam ojačala lepljivim platnom materijal. Zatim sam iscrtala pravougaonik koji predstavlja rupicu za dugme. Prethodno sam pažljivo izmerila keder traku i zaključila da mi je potrebna rupica širine 1cm. Dugmad koje ću koristiti su prečnika 3cm, tako da je rupica isto toliko duga. Isekla sam dva parčeta keder trake par santimetara duže od dužine rupice.

Bound buttonholes are made the same way as vented pockets. I'll use the piping cord for these buttonholes.

I'll show you on a scrap of fabric how bound buttonholes are made.

First I reinforced the fabric with a piece of fusible interfacing. Then I drew a rectangle on the fabric, that represented a shape of the buttonhole. Before drawing the buttonhole I carefully measured the width of the piping cord and calculated that the buttonhole should be 1 cm wide. The buttons I'll use are 3 cm wide in radius, so the buttonhole should be 3 cm long as well. I cut two pieces of the piping cord, few centimeters longer than the length of the buttonhole.

Pričvrstila sam špenadlama keder traku za ivicu rupice. Obratite pažnju na položaj u kome stoji keder traka u odnosu na rupicu: zadebljali deo trake je okrenut tako da praktično stoji izvan okvira rupice.
Zatim sam prišila traku za materijal. Ovde sam bila jako pažljiva i vodila računa da štep ide tačno od ivice do ivice okvira i ne prelazi ga. Pošto je precizno šivenje veoma važno, smanjila sam dužinu boda na 1mm.

I pinned the piping cord to the buttonhole's edge. Note the position of the piping cord on the buttonhole: the piping part of the cord lays outside of the buttonhole.

Then I sewed the cord to the fabric. I was very careful while sewing, making sure that the stitch ran exactly from one edge to the other, and didn't cross over the buttonhole edge. Since precise stitching is essential, I set the stitch to be 1 mm long.

Zatim sam isto uradila i sa drugim parčetom keder trake.

I repeated the process with the other piece of piping cord.

Kada su trake prišivene, treba proseći materijal. Ovde je bitno da imate makaze sa veoma oštim vrhom, kojim možete da napravite precizne rezove. Rupicu sam presekla po sredini, zaustavivši se na otprilike 5mm od bočnih ivica. Zatim sam napravila dijagonalne rezove ka horizontalnim ivicama. Ovde je bitno da se ne preseče sam šav, ali da se napravi rez koji ide do samog šava.

Once the cords are sewed to the fabric, the fabric needs to be cut. It's essential to have a pair of scissors with very sharp points. I cut the buttonhole along its center, and stopped cutting approximately 5 mm away from side edges. Then I made diagonal cuts towards the corners of the buttonholes. It is essential here not to cut through the stitch line.

Zatim sam prevrnula keder trake na naličje.

Then I pulled the cords to the wrong side of the fabric.

I poslednji korak: presavila sam materijal duž bočne ivice i prišila ovaj mali trouglić za keder trake. Ovde je bitno da šav postavite na samu ivicu rupice. Naravno, obe strane rupice treba obraditi na isti način. Zatim sam otsekla višak keder trake.

And the last step: I folded the fabric along the shorter edge of the buttonhole and sewed this little triangle to the cords. It is essential to position the stitching line to the very edge of the buttonhole. I repeated the process on both sides and cut off the extra length of the cords.

Evo kako rupica izgleda nakon peglanja.

Here's how the buttonhole looks after pressing.

Sedam rupica kasnije, evo kako izgleda moj kaput.

Seven buttonholes later, here's how my coat looks.

Uporedo sa rupicama, napravila sam otvore za rupice na opšivku prednjeg dela kaputa. 

Along with making bound buttonholes, I made the holes on the front facing of the coat. 

Sledeći na tapetu su rukavi.

The next step is setting in the sleeves.

"S" kaput, deo 7 / The "S" coat, part 7

Konačno dođosmo i do šivenja! Iskreno, nisam mogla da dočekam da počnem da šijem kaput, jer je to moja omiljena faza u izradi odeće. 

Kao što ste mogli da primetite u prošlom postu, spojila sam prednje i zadnje gornje delove kaputa, kao i prednje i zadnje donje delove kaputa. Pošto se keder traka umeće između njih, htela sam da je umetnem u jednom cugu, kako ne bih sekla traku.

Prvo sam prišila keder traku za donji deo kaputa. 

We've finally came to sewing! Truth to be told, I couldn't wait to start sewing the coat, since that's my favorite  part of making clothes.

As you might have noticed in the last post, I joined the front and back top pieces, as well as the front and back bottom pieces. Since the piping cord is inserted between these two sections, I wanted to attach it in one piece, without the need to cut in several pieces.

First I sewed the piping cord to bottom part of the coat.

Zatim sam našila gornji džep.

Then I attached the top pocket.

Gornje delove sam prvo ojačala štepom duž S-krive, a zatim sam napravila male rezove duž zakrivljenih ćoškova. Rezovi služe za lakše uklapanje konkavnih i konveksnih oblika. 

I reinforced the top pieces by making a stitch along the S-curve. Then I made small cuts along the curved corners. These cuts serve for easier matching of convex and concave pieces.

Nakon dosta rada, fircanja, šivenja i raspeglavanja šavova, evo kako kaput izgleda.

After a lot of work, pinning, sewing and pressing, this is how the coat looks.

Sledeći korak su paspulirane rupice za dugmad. 

The next step is making bound button holes.

"S" kaput, deo 6 / The "S" coat, part 6

Ovaj post će biti sa malo teksta, budući da slike ilustruju sve. 

Evo mog materijala, postave, keder trake i dugmadi. Sve u zelenim tonovima, od limete do maslinasto zelene. Prva ideja je bila da napravim kopčanje sa skrivenim dugmićima, ali promenila mišljenje kada sam videla ove dugmiće. Odlična kombinacija tonova!

This post will have more photos than text, since the photos illustrate my point.

Here's a picture of my fabric and notions: lining, buttons and the piping lace. It's all in shades of green, going from limete to olive. My initial idea was to make a button closure with hidden buttons, but I changed my mind the minute I saw these buttons. I think it's an excellent color combo!

Evo kako sam ojačala delove lepljivim platnom: 

• Manžetne rukava su potpuno oblepljene
• Donji prednji i zadnji delovi kaputa imaju ojačanje duž linije poruba, kao i ojačanje duž S-krive
• Gornji prednji i zadnji delovi imaju takođe ojačanje duž S-krive; zadnji delovi su ojačani preko leđa i oko izreza rukava, a prednji delovi su ojačani oko rukava i duž ramena.
• Gornji i donji deo kragne su celi ojačani
• Prednji opšivak kaputa (i leva i desna strana) je takođe ceo ojačan.

U sledećem postu konačno prelazim na šivenje. Već sam dosta toga uradila, ali bi ovaj post bio prevelik da opišem sve što želim.

Here's how I interfaced the pattern pieces using a medium weight fusible interfacing:

• The sleeve cuffs are completely fused
• Bottom front and back pieces have interfacing along the hem line, and along the S-curve
• Top front and back pieces also have interfacing along the S-curve; back pieces are interfaced over the upper back and around the armholes; the front pieces are interfaced along the armholes and along the shoulder lines
• Top and bottom collar pieces are completely interfaced
• Front facing (left and right sides) is also completely interfaced.

In the next post I'll finally write about the sewing. I have already done a lot of work, but this post would have been too long if I wrote about all the details I've done.

"S" kaput, deo 5 / The "S" coat, part 5

Hvala vam na divnim komentarima i rečima podrške. Jako sam bila uzbuđena oko kolumne još od kako sam potpisala ugovor sa časopisom, ali sam zadržala određenu dozu skepse bukvalno do trenutka kada sam dobila kopiju časopisa. 

Takođe, hvala svima koji su odgovorili na pitanje vezano za format pisanja bloga. Ispade da vam se blog manje-više dopada ovakav kakav je, pa ga za sada neću menjati.

Thank you for lovely and supportive comments. I was so thrilled about the column ever since I signed the contract with the magazine, but I was skeptical about it until I got the copy of the magazine.

Also, thank you all for answering the question related to the blog's format. It turned out you more or less like the blog the way it is, so I won't change it for now.

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Nastavljam dalje sa "S" kaputom. Budući da sam dosta izmenila originalan kroj, htela sam da isprobam novi model pre no što iskrojim materijal. Dakle, sašila sam test kroj i veoma mi je drago zbog toga, jer je kroj imao par problema.

Za početak, mislim da je kroj spreda bio isečen na pogrešnom mestu po horizontali - prednji deo je imao neobične nabore oko grudi, linija šava bila je postavljena prenisko, nije išla preko vrha grudi.

Takođe, primetila sam dijagonalne nabore na prednjem delu, u smeru od grudi prema kukovima. I, kao dodatni problem, kaput mi je bio blago tesan preko grudi, dok je u ramenima bio taman.

I'm continuing my work on the "S" coat. Since I changed the original pattern a lot, I wanted to test it before cutting the fabric. So I made a muslin, and I'm so happy I did it, since the pattern had a few problems.

First, I think the pattern was cut on the wrong place on the front - it had some unusual gathers over the bust, and the seam was placed too low beneath the bust.

Also, I noticed diagonal gathers on the front that went from the bust towards the hips. Additionally, the coat needed a full bust alteration since it was slightly tight.

Na slici ispod možete videti dijagonalne nabore o kojima sam pričala.

You can see the diagonal gathers on the picture below.

Na leđima sam takođe primetila nabore na gornjem delu, oko centralnog šava.

I noticed the gathers on the back top too.

Kroj sam izmenila na nekoliko mesta. Prvo sam rešila problem širine kaputa na grudima. Napravila sam dva vertikalna proreza na prednjim delovima kaputa, tačno preko vrha grudi. Zatim sam dodala parče tkanine ispod kaputa, zatvarajući njime rupu koja se napravila na prorezima. Na slici ispod vidite moj prvi pokušaj, nakon koga sam proreze dodatno prosekla ka vratu, i time rešila problem.

I altered the pattern on several places. First I made a FBA - I made two vertical cuts over the bust. Then I put two strips of fabric beneath the coat, closing the holes I made. The picture below depicts my first attempt at this fix, later on I sliced the coat more towards the neck thus solving the problem.

Zatim sam podigla horizontalnu liniju S-krive par santimetara uvis.

Then I translated the S-curve by few centimeters up.

Na zadnjem delu sam imala par intervencija. Prvo sam suzila kaput u struku, hvatajući centralni zadnji šav. Zatim sam korigovala kroj kako bih uklonila nabore na gornjem delu - napravila sam dve simetrične vertikalne brusne koje su išle od S krive ka ramenima. Na kraju sam podigla S-krivu za par santimetara. Slika ispod ne prikazuje potpuno verno stanje kaputa, jer izgleda kao da imam ogroman nabor preko struka, što u prirodi nije tako.

I made a few alterations on the back. First I narrowed down the coat along the CB seam. Then I made two symmetrical vertical darts on the back, that went from the S-curve towards the shoulders, removing the gathers this way. Finally, I shifted up the S-curve by few centimeters. The picture bellow doesn't do any justice to the coat, it seams like there is a huge gather over the waist area, while there isn't one in the real life.

Konačno, rasparala sam test kroj i isekla ga duž novih linija S-krive. Dobijeni kroj sam prenela na novi komad papira i to će biti verzija s kojom ću raditi.

Finally, I ripped off the coat seams, and cut the panels along the new S-curves. I transferred the alterations to a new piece of paper and I'll use this version of the pattern for my coat.

SewNews kolumna / The SewNews column

Dragi čitaoci, htela bih da se pohvalim da je moja dugo očekivana kolumna, Pattern Play, osvanula u američkom časopisu SewNews. Ovaj časopis nije dostupan na prostorima bivše Jugoslavije, tako da nisam ni znala za isti, dok me nije kontaktirala urednica, Ellen. 

Naime, Ellen je videla na BurdaStyle sajtu haljinu (khm, trebalo bi da promenim slike!) koju sam sama dizajnirala, i ponudlia mi da napišem članak o tome kako sam napravila kroj sa specifičnim faltama. Pre toga, nije mi ni palo na pamet da drugi zapravo uče, ili žele da nauče, od mene! Predložila sam dugoročniju saradnju sa časopisom, i tako je oformljena kolumna za 2011. godinu. Časopis izlazi na svaka dva meseca, tako da će kolumna sadržati ukupno 6 članaka. 

Prvi članak opisuje već pomenutu hajlinu sa faltama u obliku lista. Kroj za istu haljinu možete download-ovati sa Dowlnoad taba na blogu. Ceo članak možete pročitati i u web izdanju, ovde, a u prilogu vam ostavljam par slika iz časopisa.

Dear readers, I'm excited to announce that my long waited column, Pattern Play, has been published in the SewNews magazine. The magazine isn't available on the territory of the ex-YU countries, so I wasn't aware of its existence before Ellen, the editor, contacted me.

Ellen saw a dress (ahem, I should change the photos!) that I designed by myself on the BurdaStyle web site and proposed to me to write an article on altering a pattern the get the leaf shaped pleats. Before this, I wasn't aware that there were people who learned, or wanted to learn from me! I suggested few more articles on similar subject (pattern alterations), and I got the column in the magazine for the year 2011. The magazine has 6 issues per year, hence the column will be consisted of 6 articles.

The first article describes the pattern alterations for the above mentioned Leaf pleated dress. You can download the pattern for this dress from the Download tab of the blog. You can read the whole article here, and I'm sharing with you a few photos scanned from the magazine itself.

"S" kaput, deo 4 / The "S" coat, part 4

Nastavljam sa izmenama kroja, treba da iskrojim džep. Na donjem prednjem delu korja sam iscrtala oblik džepa, 15cm dubok, i oko 13cm širok. Malo sam zakrivila ćošak džepa. Zatim sam iscrtani oblik precrtala na novi list papira i iskrojila ga. Ovaj deo će biti gornji džep.

I'm continuing with pattern alterations, I should draft a pocket pattern. I drew a pocket shape on the front bottom piece. The pocket is 15cm deep, and around 13cm wide. Also, I curved a bit the corner of the pocket. Then I copied the pocket shape on a new piece of paper. This piece will be a top of the pocket.

Isti oblik sam precrtala još jednom na novi list papira i vrh džepa sam zalepila za dno gornjeg prednjeg panela kaputa. Dodati deo će biti donji džep.

I copied the same shape on another piece of paper and I glued the top of the pocket piece to the bottom of the front top pattern piece. The added piece will serve as a lower pocket.

Ideja je da rukavi kaputa imaju manžetne, koje će biti paspulirane keder trakom. Međutim, neću praviti prave manžetne, već ću samo preseći rukave na dva dela, umetnuti keder traku, i prišiti delove zajedno. Na gornjem i donjem delu rukava sam iscrtala linije paralelne sa linijom poruba, udaljene 15cm od nje.

Ove krojne delove ću koristiti i za kroj kaputa i za kroj postave. Kada budem sekla materijal za kaput, rukave ću seći iz dva dela, dok cu postavu seći iz jednog dela.

Za postavu i opšivke ću koristiti početni, princes, kroj kaputa. Kada sam šila Šanel kaput, napravila sam kroj za rusku kragnu, koji i sada planiram da upotrebim.

Večeras idem na put, na kome ću biti narendih nedelju dana. Nastaviću da pišem o kaputu kada se vratim.

I want to have sleeve cuffs on the coat, that would be accentuated with piping. However, I will not make actual sleeve cuffs; instead I'll cut the sleeves in two pieces, apply the piping cord and join the sleeve pieces back together. I drew horizontal lines on the top and bottom sleeve patterns, distanced 15cm from the sleeve hemline and parallel to the hemline.

I'll use the same sleeve pattern pieces for both the shell fabric and the lining. When cutting the fashion fabric, I'll cut the sleeves in two pieces, and keep the sleeves as one piece when cutting the lining.

I'll use the basic shoulder princess seamed pattern for the coat lining and for the facings. I have already drafted the collar pattern when I made the Faux Chanel coat, and I intend to use the same collar pattern this time.

I'm going on a trip tonight, and I'll be back in a week. I'll continue writing about the coat when I come back.

Pitanje za čitaoce / A question for the readers

Kada sam pokrenula blog, odlučila sam da bude dvojezičan kako bih omogućila što većem broju ljudi da ga prati bez problema. Međutim, par puta sam se zapitala da li je način na koji pišem jasan i pregledan. Zato bih volela da čujem vaše mišljenje:

1. Da li da nastavim da pišem članke na način koji sam do sad koristila - da pišem jedan pasus na srpskom, pa na engleskom, sa slikom koja ilustruje tekst,
2. Da li da ispišem sve na jednom jeziku, pa zatim na drugom, duplirajući slike
3. Ili da postavljam duplirane postove, jedan na srpskom, drugi na engleskom, i time maksimalno pojednostavim korišćenje bloga?

Lin3aRosa mi je ostavila komentar koji me dodatno naveo da razmislim - nju je zbunio naziv postova koje sam pisala ovih dana, jer KAPUTT na nemačkom znači SLOMLJEN na srpskom, a reč liči na srpsku reč KAPUT.

When I started this blog, I decided to keep it bilingual in order to make it understandable to as many people as possible. However, I asked myself several times whether my writing was concise and clear. So I'd like to hear your opinion on the subject:

1. Should I keep writing the way I did so far - writing each paragraph first in one language than in the other, with one photo that illustrates the step,
2. Should I write everything in one language first, than translate it to other, posting doubled pictures,
3. Should I post separate posts in Serbian and English, would it make the blog more user friendly?

Lin3aRosa left a comment that made me think about this issue further more. I'm quoting: 

"Theses posts are really interesting. However, everytime I see the title in my reader I startled because "kaput" is like 'kaputt' in German, which means 'broken'. So I ask myself "oh what's broken, what happened?". And then I remember it means "coat" to you :)"

"S" kaput, deo 3 / The "S" coat, part 3

Zadnji delovi se menjaju na potpuno isti način kao i prednji. Stoga, neću opisivati detaljno sve korake, ali evo par slika koje ilustruju proces.
Prvo sam uporedila zadnji bočni deo sa bočnim prednjim delom, i obeležila na bočnoj ivici zadnjeg dela tačku kroz koju mora da prođe "S" kriva.

The back pattern pieces are altered in a same way as the front pieces. Therefore, I will not describe each step in detail, but I'll illustrate the process with few photos.
First, I compared the back side panel to the front side panel, and marked a point on the back panel where the "S" curve should go through. 

Zatim sam ponovila poznat postupak: iscrtala horizontalnu liniju na bočnom delu i zakrivila je prema unutrašnjoj ivici kroja.

Then I repeated the described alteration process: I drew a horizontal line on the side panel and curved it towards the medial side of the panel.

Spojila sam donje delove duž unutrašnjih ivica, tako da su linije poruba poravnate.

I fixed the back pieces together along their medial sides, making the hemline one continuous line.

I presekla bočni deo duž iscrtane krive. Ovaj put sam imala sreće - bočni i zadnji deo ne formiraju vertikalnu brusnu, tako da nema potrebe da dodatnim izmenama bočnog panela.
Spojila sam gornje delove tako da je ramena linija poravnata.

I cut the side panel along the drawn curve. I was lucky this time - the side and the center panels didn't form a vertical dart, so there was no need for additional pattern corrections.
I joined the top pieces of the pattern, forming a continuous shoulder line.

Iscrtala sam horizontalnu liniju na centralnom delu i zakrivila je prema unutrašnjoj ivici kroja.

I drew a horizontal line on the central panel and curved it towards the medial side of the panel.

Presekla sam centralni deo duž iscrtane linije. Pošto su krojni delovi formirali prilično široku brusnu, morala sam da korigujem centralni panel na dva mesta, koristeći ranije opisan postupak. Dakle, imala sam dve horizontalne korekcione brusne na gornjem zadnjem delu. Liniju krive sam pomerila uvis za oko 2.5cm, koliko je iznosio zbir širina dve pomenute horizontalne brusne.

I cut the central panel along the drawn curve. Since the pattern pieces formed a rather wide vertical dart, I had to alter the central panel on two places, using the previously described process. Hence I ended up with two horizontal correctional darts on the top back piece. I altered the curve by shifting up one side by approximately 2.5cm - a cumulative width of the two horizontal darts.

Evo kako zadnji krojni delovi izgledaju nakon mojih intervencija.

Here's how the back pieces look after my alterations.

U sledećem postu ću opisati kako sam napravila kroj za džepove i kako sam izmenila rukave.

In the next post I'll describe how I drafted pockets and the alterations I made on sleeves.