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Aug 19, 2013

Nougat dress #1301 sewalong - Sastavite kroj / Assemble the pattern

Dragi čitaoci, dobila sam mnogo pozitivnih komentara na račun kroja za Nugat haljinu, kao i same haljine, i želim da vam se zahvalim. Veoma mi je drago što vam se kroj dopada, nadam se da ćete se pridružiti Nugat maniji i sami sašiti sebi ovu lepu haljinu.

Miss Dibs je bila velikodušna i ponudila se da otkupi par krojeva, koje će dalje razdeliti svojim čitaocima. Posetite njen blog, učestvujte u nagradnoj igri koju organizuje, i možda ćete osvojiti kroj! Nagradna igra je otvorena do 31. Avgusta.

Narednih dana ću postavljati članke sa detaljnim opisom koraka za šivenje Nugat haljine. Članci će opisivati šivenje varijacije A, ali ću dodati napomene koje se odnose na ostale varijacije, tako da ću time pokriti sve tri haljine.

Dear readers, I've gotten a lot of positive feedback on Nougat dress pattern and the dress itself, and I want to thank you for that. I'm really glad you like the pattern, and I hope you'll join the Nougat mania and make a dress yourself.

Miss Dibs was so generous and offered to buy off several patterns and give them away to her readers. Visit her blog, enter the giveaway and you might win the pattern! The giveaway is open till August 31st.

I will post articles with detailed instructions for sewing the Nougat dress in the following days. The posts will cover the steps for sewing the dress of view A, but I'll add notes that correspond to the other views, thus covering all three dresses. 

Ako želite da postavite bedž za nugat haljinu na vaš blog, kopirajte HTML kod ispod slike, ili preuzmite samu sliku sa bloga.



Grab a Nougat badge - just copy the HTML code below. 


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Odštampajte kroj / Print the pattern

Kroj za Nugat haljinu je podešen za štampu na A4 ili Letter formatu papira. Krojni delovi su podeljeni u četiri grupe, što omogućava lakše manipulicanje brojnim stranicama - kroj ima čak 60 stranica.
Pre štampe, podesite opcije za štampu - podesite parametar "Page scaling" na "None", i proverite da li je zoom postavljen na 100%. Orijentacija papira bi trebalo da bude "Portrait".
Pre nego što odštampate 60 strana papira, odradite test štampu stranice 47, na kojoj se nalazi test kvadrat. Dimenzije kvadrata su 10 cm x 10m cm / 4 x 4 inča. Premerite kvadrat i proverite da li je odštampan u dobroj veličini.

Nougat dress pattern is adjusted for printing on A4 or Letter paper format. The pattern pieces are divided into four groups, allowing easier manipulation with the numerous pages - the pattern contains 60 pages. 
When printing the pattern, set the "Page scaling" option to "None", and make sure the zoom is set to 100%. Paper orientation should be set to "Portrait".
Before printing 60 pages of the pattern, make a test print of the page 47, where you have the test square. Its dimensions should be 10 cm x 10 cm / 4" x 4". Measure the square to check if the pattern is printed in the life-size.


Kada ste podesili štampu, možete početi sa njom.
Ukoliko vas zanima samo jedna varijacija haljine, možete preskočiti štampu nekih stranica, čime ćete uštedeti papir i toner. Evo liste strana potrebnih za svaku od varijacija kroja:
  • View A: 2-22, 25-27, 30-40, 43-60 (ukupno 54 strane)
  • View B: 20-21, 23-26, 28-40, 43-60 (ukupno 38 strana)
  • View C: 20-21, 25-26, 30-34, 37-40, 43-60 (ukupno 32 strane)
Once you're sure the printer is set, you can start printing. 
If you're interested in just one view of the dress, you might skip printing some of the pages, thus saving your paper and the printer toner. Bellow is a list of pages you need for each of the views:
  • View A: 2-22, 25-27, 30-40, 43-60 (total of 54 pages)
  • View B: 20-21, 23-26, 28-40, 43-60 (total of 38 pages)
  • View C: 20-21, 25-26, 30-34, 37-40, 43-60 (total of 32 pages)

Spojte stranice / Tape the pages together

Nakon što ste odštampali stranice kroja, potrebno je da ih sastavite u krojne listove. Najpre odstranite margine sa svih stranica. Ja obično sečem margine na tri strane odjednom, i uvek odsecam samo desnu i donju marginu, kao što je prikazano na slici ispod. Koristim skalpel i lenjir kako bih dobila ravne ivice. Ovo ujedno ubrzava proces. Takođe, ja koristim selotejp za spajanje stranica, a može se koristiti i lepak za papir.

Once the pattern pages are printed, you need to assemble the pattern sheets, by taping them together. First remove the margins from the pages. I usually cut margins on three pages at once, and I always cut just the right and bottom margins, as shown on the picture below. I use a scalpel and a ruler to get nice, straight edges. This speeds up the process a lot. I use an adhesive tape, but you can use a paper glue as well.


Koristite trougaone markere kao smernice za spajanje stranica kroja.

Use the triangular shaped notches as guides for taping the pages together.


Kada spojite sve stranice, dobićete krojne listove. Tada ste spremni da iskrojite šnit u vašoj veličini. Više o tome u narednom postu.

Once all the pages are taped together, you get the pattern sheet. Now you're ready to cut the pattern in your size! More on that in next post.


Zašto Štepalica krojevi nemaju dodatke za šavove? / Why Štepalica patterns do not have seam allowances?

Kroj za Nugat haljinu nije jednostavan za šivenje, posebno ako šijete varijaciju A. Kroj za ovu verziju se sastoji od 38 delova, što je mnogo! Želela sam da kroj bude jednostavan za rad i prepravke, pa sam grupisala brojne krojne delove u smislene celine, kao što je slučaj sa prednjim panelu gornjeg dela haljine, koji je prikazan na slici iznad. Ovaj panel se zapravo sastoji od 11 manjih panela, označenim kao A1-A11. Da sam ih razdvojila, konačni oblik kroja bi bilo mnogo teže vizualizovati. Zbog toga sam se opredelila za jednostavnije rešenje, koje je lakše razumeti i, što je još važnije, lakše za eventualne prepravke! Posledica moje odluke je nedostatak dodataka za šavove.
Međutim, sa ovakvim krojem, lako ćete napraviti test model, koji se sastoji od svega 5 krojnih delova, i na kom možete iscrtati linije šavova prednjih i zadnjih panela. Nakon toga, možete korigovati kroj po potrebi, a potom preneti izmene nazad na kroj, bez potrebe da zapravo šijete duž svih tih šavova.
Više o tome u narednom postu.

Nougat dress pattern isn't an easy one, especially if you're sewing the variation A. The pattern for this variation consists of 38 pattern pieces, which is a lot! I wanted to make the pattern easy to understand and fit, so I grouped the numerous pattern pieces into meaningful pattern units, like the front bodice panel displayed above. It actually consists of 11 smaller panels labeled as A1-A11. Had I separated them, it would have been much more difficult to visualize the final shape of the pattern. So I opted for an easier solution, that's easy to understand, and more important - it's easy to fit! A consequence that stood behind my decision was the lack of the seam allowances.
However, this way you can easily make a muslin for this dress, from just 5 pattern blocks, and mark the seam lines on them, Then you can make any fitting adjustments you need and transfer them back to the pattern, with no need to actually sew all the seams. 
Well, more on this topic in the next post.


Prethodni članci o Nugat haljini: / Previous articles about the Nougat dress: