Tied up

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This weekend I worked on a very interesting dress for a friend you've already met. She brought 2m of viscose with a lovely print, so we started looking for an interesting pattern to use. She liked the knotted dress from Burda Style 12/2012. The pattern doesn't have many pieces but the knot on the waist looks like an interesting riddle to solve. I've been wanting to try out this kind of pattern for a long time, but I've never gotten to it, so this seemed to be the great opportunity.

Here's how the pattern looks - when I saw the front bodice panel, I knew I would have a lot of work on the dress. Luckily there are illustrated sewing instructions for this pattern in Burda, without them the sewing and piecing up the dress would have been a nightmare. It took me a while to analyze the instructions and brainstorm about it in order to put the dress together, but I eventually made it.

What I dislike about the pattern is that it doesn't include the lining pattern. The lining could be a very simple one, and in case one used a transparent fabric having a lining under the dress would be a must.

The pattern was drafted for extremely tall women, and my friend is 175 cm tall, so I wasn't sure if I would need to crop the pattern or not. And even if I had to crop it off, I wouldn't know where to start from, so I decided to make a muslin first, and I'm very glad for that. The friend is yet to try out the dress, but I've already noticed some issues with it.

You see, the knot makes a huge bulk since the dress is being gathered at the same spot both vertically and horizontally. Additionally, the bulk adds some weight to the dress, and is pulling the bodice down. I used a viscose fabric as a muslin, and the fabric is of same weight as the one we'll use for the final dress. The fabric is rather soft, drapey and light, but it looks like it's too thick for this model. Besides, I'm not sure I would like to wear a dress with a bulk on a waist. I have some ideas for fixing the pattern, but I'll have to wait for the friend to try out the dress before I continue working on it.

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Zavezana

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Ovog vikenda sam se bacila na šivenje jedne veoma interesantne haljine za drugaricu koju već znate sa bloga. Donela je 2m veoma lepe viskoze, pa smo tražile zanimljiv kroj koji bismo koristile. Dopala joj se haljina sa čvorom, iz Burde 12/2012. Kroj nema mnogo krojnih delova, ali čvor na struku deluje kao prava zagonetka. Dugo sam želela da se oprobam sa nekim sličnim modelom, ali se nikad nisam nakanila, pa je ovo bila odlična prilika.

Evo kako kroj izgleda - kada sam videla prednji panel, znala sam da ću imati mnogo posla na haljini. Srećom pa u Burdi postoje ilustrovane instrukcije za šivenje, inače bi sastavljanje haljine bilo prava noćna mora. Trebalo mi je neko vreme da analiziram instrukcije i malo mozganja da bih se snašla, ali sam u nekom trenutku konačno uspela.

Ono što mi je odmah zasmetalo kod kroja je to što nema krojnih delova za postavu, koja bi mogla da bude krajnje jednostavna, a koja bi, u slučaju da se koristi providan materijal, bila neophodna.

Kroj je modelovan za izrazito visoke žene, a drugarica ima oko 175 cm, pa nisam bila sigurna da li ću morati da skraćujem gornji deo (a i ako bih ga skraćivala, nisam imala pojma odakle bih ga kratila), pa sam rešila da napravim test kroj, i jako mi je drago zbog toga. Drugarica tek treba da isproba haljinu, ali već vidim par problema. 

Naime, čvor na struku pravi jako veliko zadebljanje, jer se haljina i vertikalno i horizontalno nabira u jednoj tački. Dodatno, sav nabran materijal dodaje težinu haljini u toj tački, pa čvor prosto vuče prednji deo naniže. Za gornji deo test kroja sam koristila viskozu iste debljine kao i ona koju ćemo koristiti za finalnu haljinu. Materijal je prilično mek i tanak, ali i pored toga imam utisak da je predebeo za ovaj model. Pored toga, nisam sigurna da bih volela da nosim haljinu koja ima budžu na stomaku. Imam par ideja kako da korigujem kroj, ali ću sačekati drugaricu da isproba haljinu, pa da se dogovorimo oko toga kako dalje da nastavimo.

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