Sep 9, 2013

Kum(a) na venčanju / The best (wo)man on a wedding

Moja prijateljica je kumovala mladoženji na venčanju, pa me zamolila da joj napravim haljinu za tu priliku. Imala je vrlo jasnu ideju o tome kakva haljina treba da bude - poslala mi je ovu sliku kao inspiraciju, u pitanju je Bluemarine, sezona za proleće / leto 2012.

A friend of mine was a best (wo)man on a wedding (hmm... English readers, help me with the terminology! She was the groom's maid?) a groom's Maid of Honour (thank you Miriana!) and asked me to make her a dress for this occasion. She had a very clear idea on how the dress should look - she sent me this photo as an inspiration, it's Bluemarine, Spring / Summer 2012.


Kupila je prelep materijal, koji je naručila iz Holandije, od kompanije Vlisco. U pitanju je relativno krut pamuk, sa veoma krupnom šarom koja se proteže od ivice do ivice materijala. Imale smo 6 jardi (oko 5.50 m) na raspolaganju, budući da je to najmanja količina koja se može naručiti. Materijal je širok 1.10 m. 

She ordered a gorgeous fabric from Vlisco, a fabric manufacturer from Netherlands. It's a rather stiff cotton, with large print that spreads across the fabric. We had 6 yards (around 5.5 m) to work with, since this was the minimal amount that could be ordered.


Tkanina je diktirala izbor kroja, tako da smo blago izmenile originalan dizajn i umesto nabora na suknji napravile velike falte.
Kao osnovu za gornji deo haljine sam koristila kroj iz Burde 8/2012, #133, koji sam malo izmenila. Ovaj put neću opisivati ceo postupak, ali ću podeliti sa vama par fotografija koje sam uslikala dok sam pravila haljinu.

The fabric dictated the choice of pattern, so we slightly altered the original design and instead of a gathered skirt we made a pleated one.
I used a bodice from Burda Style 8/2012, #133 as a basis, and altered it a bit. I'm not going to show you the whole sewing process this time, but I will share with you some pics I snapped while making the dress.





Kao što se da videti na slici iznad, kroj je presekao cvetove na bočnim panelima, pa sam napravila aplikacije od ostatka materijala i prišila ih preko tkanine, kada je haljina već bila gotova. Koristila sam cik-cak bod dužine 0.5 mm.

As you can see on the picture above, the pattern cut the red flowers on the side panels, so I made appliques from the fabric remnants and applied them to the fabric once the dress was made. I used a satin stitch.


Faltanje materijala za suknju.

Pleating the fabric for the skirt.



Napravila sam i postavu od mekog tila, kako bi falte dobile veći volumen.

I also made a tulle underskirt to give the pleats some volume.



I konačno, evo kako haljina izgleda. Kuma je blistala na venčanju, i kaže da je haljina bila veoma zapažena. 

Finally, here's how the dress looks. My friend looked amazing on the wedding and she said the dress was really eye-catching.


fotografija: Nikola Zamurović

fotografija: Nikola Zamurović

fotografija: Nikola Zamurović

27 comments:

  1. In the UK we call it Maid of Honour. And that dress is fantastic - I love the fabric.

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    1. Thanks Miriana! The fabric is just gorgeous and it was a dream to work with!

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  2. Predivno!

    Da li imas neki savet kako faltati materijal? Mislim konkretno na peglanje i na ocuvanje oblika tih falti.

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    1. Hvala na komentaru. O ovome ću napraviti zaseban post, mislim da će mnoge zanimati odgovor.

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  3. Jao, Ana! Svaka cast, haljina je predivna, a i kuma takodje! Materijal je bozanstven i ti si ga super uklopila u kroj! Hvala na savetu za til :)

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  4. Stunning and beautiful placement with the appliqued flowers. They are in just the right place. Love your work.

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    1. When she brought the fabric to me, she had some idea on how to arrange the print. However, with that arrangement, the flowers would be placed symmetrically over her breasts, making it somewhat hideous. I pointed out to her the problem and she was really surprised she hadn't noticed it before.

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  5. It is such a beautiful dress. Vlisco always has very good prints. I have been meaning to order from them, because they do African prints, and I think their fabric don't run.

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    1. I haven't heard of Vlisco before she pointed me out to the website. And when I first looked at the prints they were too bold for my liking. But I really like how the dress turned and now I'm considering buying some fabric for myself.

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  6. Beautiful dress! Great idea with the applique flowers!

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    1. Yeah, I didn't like how the cut-of flowers looked, so I thought appliques would solve the issue. I'm really satisfied with how it looks now.

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  7. Gorgeous. Amazing. It's so pretty! The fabric and the pleats. Oh my! It's a stunning dress.

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  8. Prelepa je haljina Ana! Svaka čast. I materijal deluje lepo i ovako, verujem da je "pod ruku" još lepši :)
    Moji su se bavili faltanjem kad sam bila mala, imali smo onu ogromnu mašinu za kuvanje i katalog materijala i falti :D Ako se dobro sećam, postavljali su kartone na materijalu gde bi išla falta i preklapali, pa rolali u nešto i onda te tube ubacivali u mašinu. Ko zna koliko savremeniji i lakši način sad postoji :))

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    1. Hvala Nataša! Zapravo, i dan-danas se koristi ista tehnika za plisiranje tkanine :). Moguće je da su peći u kojima se tkanina suši modernije danas, ali je metod potpuno isti kao što si opisala. Ove falte koje sam ja pravila su kratkog daha - nakon pranja će se pregib izgubiti i jedino pažljivim peglanjem će se falte vratiti na svoje mesto.
      A materijal je na dodir prilično - običan :). Ima teksturu gusto tkanog pamuka - ništa specijalno. Sva njegova draž je u živim bojama i fenomenalnom printu. Pošto je prilično krut, izbor krojeva je ograničen na one koji imaju jasnu formu, zato su se falte odlično uklopile s njim.

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    2. Eto, zanimljivo, mislila sam da se promenilo nešto. A sećam se te mašine, ogromna je bila, a stajala nam je u kupatilu i grejala ga samo tako kad bi je uključili :)

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  9. Gorgeous dress. The size of the print would have intimidated me, but you really used it to the best advantage. I also think the applique was a brilliant idea to eliminate the cut off flower.

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    1. Well, my first thought when I saw the fabric was about how huge the print was. I would have never chosen the print myself. But my friend liked it so much, so I started looking for potential pattern layout. We played with the fabric a bit before we decided on how to cut.
      A funny thing is, now I have an idea on how I'm going to use a fabric I have in my stash, that's really gorgeous, but with a print of a similar size.

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  10. divna je haljina.. ja sam odavno bacila oko na materijale koje prodaje ta firma, te africke wax printove u ludim bojama, ali su i dalje malo preskupi za moj dzep

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    1. Da, ona je baš dosta platila materijal, plus je imala velike troškove poštarine. Ja sam, s druge strane, bila prilično obazriva kada sam sekla materijal, plašeći se da nešto ne zabrljam. Zbog ogromnog printa i uklapanja šara, kroj je prosto pojeo materijal, i nije bilo šanse da se štedi na tkanini. Od 5,5 m, koliko smo imale, ostalo je jedno parče od oko 1,5 m. Nije malo, ali opet, treba uklopiti šare na njemu, što je jako teško.

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  11. As always in your makes, beautiful dress and beautiful fit!

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  12. It is a fantastic dress. Well done. I love the addition of the tule skirt.

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