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Jan 26, 2012

Pačvork / Patchwork

Ako čitate ovaj blog, pretpostavljam da ste i sami kreativni i da volite da uposlite svoje ruke praveći najzanimljivije i najmaštovitije stvarčice. Iz ličnog iskustva znam da se kreativni ljudi ne zaustavljaju samo na jednom hobiju, već šire svoj opus gde god da se ukaže prilika. 
Primera radi, moja dobra drugarica DIE je talentovana za šivenje, šije sve od garderobe do tašni, a kartonom je toliko fascinirana da pravi fenomenalan nameštaj od njega! Magda će od tkanine napraviti nakit kakav nikad niste imali prilike da vidite. Don pravi nakit koji je jednako intrigantan kao i njegova garderoba. Liza Jane je umetnica, predaje likovno u školi, a ponekad će oslikati i lično sašiti svoju garderobu.

If you read this blog, I assume you're creative as well and that you like to keep your hands busy making the most interesting things. From my own experience, I know that creative people don't limit their opus to a single craft, but they spread their knowledge in every direction they can. 
As an example, a good friend of mine, DIE, is a talented seamstress; she sews everything from clothes to bags, and on top of that she's so fascinated with cardboard that she makes an amazing furniture from it! Magda would make an original jewelry from fabric, I'm sure you won't see something like that anywhere. Don's clothes is as intriguing as his jewelry. Liza Jane is an artist, she teaches kids at school, and from time to time she'd paint and make her own clothes.




Moj alternativni hobi (tačnije, jedan od njih) je pačvork. Fascinacija ovom tehnikom se javila pre par godina, kada sam sasvim slučajno na netu našla slike fenomenalnih pokrivača. Budući da sam već imala pozamašno iskustvo sa šivenjem, pravljenje šara od milion delića mi nije delovalo previše komplikovano, ali je izazov bio napraviti zanimljivu šaru. I tako sam počela da se igram sa kvadratićima, trouglićima i rombovima, a evo i rezultata tog igranja: prva dva pačvorka sam napravila u istim tonovima, za našu vikendicu na selu, treći pokrivač je bio poklon za mog dobrog druga, a četvrti je ostao nedovršen, i čak sam ga izgubila tokom selidbe iz jednog u drugi stan, mada mi je najlepši od svih. 

My alternative hobby (actually, one of them) is patchwork. A fascination with this technique came few years ago, when I stumbled on photos of incredible quilts on the internet. Since I had quite an experience with sewing at the time, making ornaments out of zillion pieces didn't seem too complicated to me. However, making a nice and interesting pattern was a challenge. And so I started to play with square, triangle and diamond shapes and here are the results: the first two quilts were made in same tones, to use them in our house at the country side; the third quilt was a present for my friend; the fourth one remained unfinished, I even lost it while moving from one flat to another, but I find it the prettiest of all. 




Iako već par godina nisam radila na novim pokrivačima (ako izuzmemo jednostavan jastuk koji sam šila za Burda Style), i dalje se jednako oduševljavam njima, i pravim velike planove za pačvork sa šarama koje su nalik na Vasarelijeve slike (OP Art je jedan od mojih omiljenih slikarskih pravaca).

Koji su vaši skriveni talenti?

Even though I haven't made any quilt in the last couple of years (excluding a simple pillow I made for Burda Style), I'm still very fond of them and I make some big plans for making a quilt with Vasarely look alike ornaments (OP Art is one of my favorite paint directions).

So, what are your hidden talents?




P.S. Hvala vam na divnim komentarima na roze kaput i zelenu haljinu

P.S. Thank you so much for great comments on the pink coat and the green dress

Jan 24, 2012

Februarsko - Martovsko izdanje Sew News magazina / February - March issue of the Sew News magazine

Pre neki dan sam dobila paket, a u njemu novi broj Sew News časopisa, i moja haljina. 
Članak opisuje kako da napravite kroj za klasičnu haljinu sa faltama na poprsju. Mislim da je haljina dodatno interesantna zbog smaragdno zelene boje, koja me oduševila. U pitanju je šantung svila, koju sam kupila sa popustom, pošto je ostalo samo jedno parče od oko 1.20 m dužine. Jedva sam uspela da iskrojim sve delove od tako malo materijala! 

A few days ago I received a package with a new issue of the Sew News magazine and my dress in it.
The article describes how to make a pattern for a classic shift dress with pleats on neckline. I think the dress is additionally interesting due to emerald color which fascinated me. It's shantung silk that I bought on a discount since it was a single leftover piece of approximately 1.20 m length. I barely managed to squeeze all the pieces on the fabric!


A evo kako haljina izgleda na meni. 

Here's how the dress looks on me.


Haljinu sam postavila lepim satenom u sličnim tonovima. Skoro da izgleda kao da ima dva lica.

I lined the dress with some nice satin in similar tones. It almost looks like the dress is double faced.


Jan 23, 2012

Roze kaput sa velikom kragnom, deo 5 / Pink coat with an oversized collar, part 5


Roze kaput je gotov, i ovih dana sam uživala šetkajući se ulicama u njemu. Ne znam kako vi, ali ja jako volim jarke boje. Verujem da mi dobro stoje, a sem toga, ubeđena sam da mi podižu raspoloženje tokom tmurnih dana. Zato sam ubeđena da će ovaj kaput biti i te kako nošen.

The pink coat is done and I've been enjoying wearing it these days. I don't know about you, but I really like bright colors. I believe I look good in them, and beside that I'm convinced they cheer me up on  dark, rainy, days. Hence I believe this coat will be a staple in my wardrobe.



 

Detalj sa štepovima na kragni.

A detail with top stitching on the collar.


Jan 11, 2012

Roze kaput sa velikom kragnom, deo 4 / Pink coat with an oversized collar, part 4

Sinoć sam još malo radila na kaputu. Prišila sam rukave na postavu, i završila prednje delove. Evo u kakvom je stanju trenutno (primetite da je prednji deo samo špenadlama pričvršćen za postavu, zato izgleda ovako čudno). 

I managed to work on the coat last night. I sewed the sleeves to the lining and finished the front panels. Here's how it looks now (please note that the front part is fixed to the lining with pins, thus the weird look).


Detalj na prednjem delu su džepovi u šavu, sa kapnom. Evo kratkih instrukcija kako sam ih šila. Nalepila sam lepljivo platno na naličje kapne i prepeglala materijal uzduž, napravivši ivicu. Zatim sam naslonila lice na lice kapne i prošila bočne ivice. Otsekla sam ćoškove dodataka za šavove, kako bih smanjila debljinu platna na tom delu kapne. Takođe, jedan sloj dodataka za opšivke sam otsekla tik uz šav, kako bi debljina tkaninke postepeno opadala od sava ka unutra. Prevrnula sam kapne na lice i prepeglala bočne šavove. Nakon toga sam dodala dekorativne štepove.

Pockets in seam, with flaps make an interesting detail on the coat. Here are brief instructions on how I made them. I fused an interfacing to the wrong side of the flap and pressed the flap, thus making a sharp edge. Then I pinned the sides of the flap, with right sides together and made a stitch. I cut off the SAs corners, in order to reduce the bulk. I also grades the SAs. I turned the flaps inside out and pressed them well. Then I topstitched them.


Džepovi u šavu se šiju pre nego što su spojeni prednji delovi kaputa. Na prednji srednji panel sam postavila kapnu, i poravnala neobrađene ivice. Pri tom sam vodila računa sa se bočne ivice kapne poklope sa markerima džepa na kaputu. Zatim sam preko kapne postavila panel džepa, i opet poravnala ivice. Prišila sam delove, praveći šav od markera do markera džepa. 

In seam pockets are sewed in before sewing the front coat panels. I laid out the pocket flap on the center front panel, and aligned the raw edges. I aligned the flap's edges with the pocket notches on the panel. Then I laid out the pocket over the flap, aligning the raw edges again. I sewed the pieces together, making the stitch from one pocket notch to the other.


Sličan postupak sam ponovila i na prednjem bočnom panelu, sa izuzetkom kapne za džep. Zatim sam džep prepeglala u stranu.

I repeated the process on the side front panel, minus the pocket flap After that, I pressed the pocket to the side.


Nakon ovih koraka, usledilo je šivenje prednjih delova. Bočni panel sam položila preko srednjeg, vodeći računa da su markeri džepa na panelima savršeno poravnati. Zatim sam panele spojila, zaustavljajući šav tik uz marker džepa. Nakon toga sam gornji i donji džep pričvrstila zajedno špenadlama, i proštepala ih.

After these steps I sewed the front panels together. I laid the side panel over the center panel, making sure the pocket notches were perfectly aligned. Then I sewed the panels, stopping the stitch at the pocket notch. After that I fixed together the top and bottom pockets and sewed them.


Džepove volim dodatno da ojačam, jer se tokom nošenja kaputa dosta habaju. Zbog toga su džepovi jedini delovi koje obrađujem cik cak bodom. Takođe, ojačavam ih i tako što šav džepa dva puta prošijem jedan preko drugog. Time se osiguravam da se džep neće oparati, a postava izresati.

I like enforcing the pockets a bit more, since they can wear down. Therefore, they're the only part of the lining I serge. Also, I enforce them by sewing twice along the seamline. This way, I ensure the pocket seam will not rip off and the lining fray out.


I, konačno, sledi prepeglavanje šavova. Kako bi džep lepo legao, volim da zasečem dodatke za šavove u liniji markera za džep, sa obe strane prednjeg dela kaputa. Na žalost, zaboravila sam da uslikam naredni korak - kako bih smanjila debljinu tkanine, otsekla sam dodatak za šavove kapne džepa, i zatim sam kaput prepeglala i sa lica, raspeglavši šav između kapne i prednjeg srednjeg panela.

The final step is pressing the seams. In order to make the pocket lay smoothly, I like cutting the SAs where pocket notches are placed, on both sides of the seam. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of the next step - in order to reduce bulk, I cut off the pocket flap's SAs, and then I pressed the pieces from the right side of the fabric, thus pressing the seam between the pocket flap and center front panel.


Jan 8, 2012

Roze kaput sa velikom kragnom, deo 3 / Pink coat with an oversized collar, part 3

Kratak izveštaj o mom napretku na kaputu. Pošto još uvek nemam konac u adekvatnoj boji, rešila sam da prvo radim na postavi kaputa. Evo kako izgleda - i rukavi su gotovi, ali nisam stigla da ih prišijem. Pored postave, spojila sam i zadnje delove kaputa, kao i delove rukava, tako da sam za danas dosta odradila, rekla bih.

A short update on the coat progress. Since I don't have a thread in the right color yet, I've decided to work on the lining first. Here's how it looks - the sleeves are finished, too, but I didn't have enough time to attach them. Beside the lining, I sewed together the back coat pieces and the sleeves, so I think I've done enough today.


Jan 7, 2012

Roze kaput sa velikom kragnom, deo 2 / Pink coat with an oversized collar, part 2

Danas sam nastavila da radim na roze kaputu. Nalepila sam lepljivo platno na sledeće delove:
  • Prednji srednji panel sa kragnom
  • Prednji opšivak sa kragnom
  • Porub prednjih i zadnjih panela, kao i na porub gornjih i donjih rukava, u širini od 5cm
  • Otvor rukava na prednjem i zadnjem bočnom panelu
  • Zadnji opšivak

Today I've continued working on the pink coat. I interfaced the following pieces with the medium weight fusible interfacing:
  • Center front panel with collar
  • Front facing with collar
  • Hemline on front and back panels, as well as hemline of top and bottom sleeves, 5cm wide
  • Armhole on front and back side panels\
  • Back facing

Odlučila sam se da kombinujem lepljivo platno srednje debljine i platno od konjske dlake na predelu kragne. Iskrojila sam 2 simetrična dela kragne od platna od konjske dlake, bez dodataka za šavove. Delove sam spojila duž centralnog zadnjeg šava, koristeći cik cak bod na mašini. Takođe, obradila sam ivice cik cak bodom, jer se ovo platno veoma lako para. Na platnu sam flomasterom iscrtala mrežu, koja kao šablon služi kako bih uredno rukom prišivala platno za kragnu kaputa. 
Takođe, prednje srednje panele sam prišila jedan za drugi, duž šava kragne, a zatim sam šavove raspeglala i odsekla vrhove dodataka za šavove, kako bih smanjila debljinu platna na ivicama. Na prednjim panelima sam označila icive kragne, kako bih znala gde tačno treba da nacentriram platno od konjske dlake.

I decided to combine medium weight fusible interfacing with horsehair canvas on collar. I cut 2 symmetrical collar pieces out of horsehair canvas, without adding SAs. I joined the pieces along the center back seam using a zick zack stitch on my machine. Also, I serged the edges, since the canvas frays like crazy. I drew a grid on the canvas, that helped me hand baste the canvas neatly.
Also, I sewed together the center front panels along the collar seam and pressed the seams open. I cut off SAs' corners in order to reduce bulk. I marked the collar's edged on the shell fabric, so I's know where to lay the horsehair canvas.



Zatim sam platno od konjske dlake postavila na kragnu i poravnala ga sa označenim linijana. Kao što vidite, na nekim delovima se delovi nisu potpuno poklopili, pa sam na konjskom platnu označila potrebne korekcije, koje sam izvršila tek kada je platno potpuno bilo prišiveno za kragnu. Platno sam prvo špenadlama pričvrstila za kragnu, a zatim sam uzdužnim i poprečnim fircanjem osigurala da se platno ne pomera duž kragne.

I laid the canvas on the collar and aligned it with the marked lines. As you can see, some parts didn't match well at first, so I marked corrections on the horsehair canvas. However, I cut off the extra fabric after the hand basting was done. I fixed the canvas to the collar using pins, and then I roughly basted it to the collar with horizontal and vertical lines, thus securing the canvas from moving over the collar.


Bodom riblje kosti sam prišila platno za kragnu, vodeći računa da se konac ne vidi sa lica kragne. Kao što vidite na slici, nisam šila do same ivice platna duž bočnih i gornjih ivica, već sam se zaustavljala na otprilike 1.5cm od njih.

Using the chevron stitch I sewed the horsehair canvas to the collar, making sure the stitch wasn't visible on the right side of the shell. As you can see on the picture, I left the side and top edges of the canvas unsewn - I stopped sewing approximately 1.5cm from them.


Zatim sam htela da korigujem dubinu kragne. Za to sam postavila opšivak preko kragne, i poravnala sve ivice. Delove sam pričvrstila špenadlama.

After that I wanted to correct the collar's width. To do that, I laid the facing over the collar and aligned the edges. I pinned the pieces together.


A onda sam presavila kragnu duž linije pregiba, tako da je opšivak stajao na vrhu a kragna ispod njega. Kao što vidite, donji sloj, tj. kragna je malo šira od opšivka u ovom položaju (a to je položaj u kom će kragna stajati na gotovom kaputu). Više o ovoj tehnici možete pročitati na Šerinom blogu.

Then I folded the collar over the fold line, keeping the facing on the top and collar on the bottom. As you can see, the lower layer is slightly wider than the facing, when put in this position (and this is the position the collar will be in once the coat is finished). You can find more information about this technique on Sherry's blog.


Označila sam razliku na kragni i suzila je koliko je bilo potrebno. Nakon toga sam suzila i platno od konjske dlake, ostavljajući dodatke za šavove široke 1.5cm. Ručnim cik cak bodom sam prišila ivice konjskog platna za kragnu.

I marked the difference on the collar and narrowed it down. After that I narrowed down the horsehair canvas, leaving the 1.5cm vide SAs. I finished up the edges hand sewing the zick zack stitcth.



Jan 6, 2012

Roze kaput sa velikom kragnom, deo 1 / Pink coat with an oversized collar, part 1

Posle mesec dana odmaranja, vreme je da se nešto i sašije. Trenutno radim na kaputu, čiju skicu sam već pokazivala na blogu. U pitanju je varijacija koju sam slala za Burda Style knjigu. Ipak, ne koristim kroj iz knjige kao osnov, već isprobani model, na kome samo treba da docrtam kragnu.

After taking a one month break from sewing, it's time to make something new. I'm working on a coat, whose sketch I posted on the blog before. It's a coat variation I sent to Burda Style for their Sewing Handbook. However, I'm not using the pattern from the book - instead, I'm using a tried and trued model on which I only have to draw a collar.


Evo kako test kroj izgleda (i evo koliko umorno ja izgledam u bež tonovima). Kaput će, naravno, biti duži - dužine malo ispod kolena. Jako sam zadovoljna kako je kragna ispala. Još moram da razmislim o tome kako ću šiti kaput - da li da koristim ojačanje od konjske dlake, ili samo lepljivo platno, ili oba. 

Here's how the muslin looks (and here's how washed and tired I look in nude tones). The coat will be longer - somewhere bellow the knees. I'm very pleased with how the collar looks. I still have to think about how I'm gonna sew this coat - whether I should use a horsehair canvas or just a fusible interfacing, or both of them.


A evo i materijala: prelepa vuna u boji fuksije, u kojoj izgledam mnogo zdravije i odmornije, odgovarajuća postava i lepi, prozirni dugmići.

And here's the fabric: a gorgeous wool in fuchsia color, in which I look much healthier; the lining and nice transparent buttons.


Do sada sam isekla vunu, ostaje mi još da iskrojim postavu i lepljivo platno, i da ga zalepim na tkaninu - moj najomraženiji deo posla :)

So far, I've cut the wool. I still have to cut the lining and the interfacing, and then to fuse it to the fabric - the least interesting part of the work :)

Jan 3, 2012

Hehe, pogledajte profile sliku zvanične Facebook stranice Burda Style sajta. Da li vam izgleda poznato?

Haha, take a look at the profile picture on the official Bursda Style's Facebook page. Does it look familiar?


Jan 2, 2012

Godina za nama / The year behind us

Dragi čitaoci, nadam se da ste se sjajno proveli u novogodišnjoj noći i da ste sa osmehom započeli 2012.
2011. godina je prošla munjevitom brzinom. Emotivno, nije bila mnogo uzbudljiva; profesionalno je bila vrlo turbulentna; ali krojački gledano - bila je savršena!

Dear readers, I hope you had a great time in the new year's eve, and that you started the 2012 with a smile.
2011 has gone faster than I could have imagined. Emotionally, it wasn't very exciting; professionally, it was rather turbulent; however, looking at it from the sewing point of view - it was perfect!

U Januaru je pokrenuta moja kolumna, Pattern Play, u časopisu Sew News. Do sada je objavljeno šest mojih članaka, a još šest, planiranih za 2012. godinu, je u pripremi. Posebno sam ponosna na Junsko - Julski broj, koji je nosio moju haljinu na naslovnoj strani.

My column, Pattern Play, was published in January, in Sew News magazine. Until now, six of my articles have been published, and six more are being prepared for 2012. I am especially proud of June - July issue, which carried my dress on the front page.


U Maju sam pohađala kurs modnog dizajna, tokom kog sam naučila mnogo novih stvari, dobila neverovatnu inspiraciju, i kreirala najneobičnije stvari. Takođe, sa ovog kursa sam izašla bogatija za jedno sjajno prijateljstvo sa profesorkom koja je vodila kurs, Milenom Kovačević.

During May I attended a course for fashion design, where I learned a lot of new stuff, got an incredible inspiration and designed the most unusual garments. I ended the course enriched by a great friendship with the teacher, Milena Kovačević.

U Novembru je izdata knjiga Burda Style Sewing Handbook, u kojoj je objavljena moja bluza.

Burda Style Sewing Handbook, which featured my blouse was published in November.


U Novembru sam, takođe, stažirala u Burda Style, boravila u Njujorku ceo mesec, i upoznala mnogo sjajnih ljudi. Takođe, bila sam i na žurci povodom promocije pomenute knjige, na kojoj sam se sjajno provela.

During November, I also worked as an intern at Burda Style, stayed the whole month in New York, and met a lot of great people. I also attended the book promotion party, where I had the best time ever.



Krajem Novembra je na Burda Style sajtu objavljena moja haljina - rezultat mog stažiranja, sa tutorijalom za pravljenje iste.
A ono o čemu vam još nisam pisala je da sam u Decembru upisala školu modelovanja krojeva, pri italijanskom modnom institutu SITAM. O tome tek treba opširnije da pišem, za sada ću vam reći samo da je jako zanimljivo i neočekivano teško!
Pored toga, 2011. sam učestvovala u čak tri Me-Made / Self-Stitched izazova, koje organizuje Zoe: u MartuJunu i Septembru. Sada nestrpljivo iščekujem novi izazov u tekućoj godini.

At the end of November Burda Style website featured my dress - the result of my internship, along with the tutorial for sewing it.
What I haven't written about yet is that during December I enrolled the pattern making course at the Italian fashion institute SITAM. I have to write about it more in detail, but for now I'll tell you it's really interesting and unexpectedly difficult!
Along with these, I participated in three Me-Made / Self-Stitched Zoe's challenges during 2011: in MarchJune and September. Now I'm impatiently waiting for the next challenge.

Moram da priznam, prošle godine sam sašila manje komada garderobe nego inače, ali sam zato napravila par stvarčica koje su, po mom mišljenju, fenomenalne. Ovo je moja lista omiljenih stvari koje sam sašila, sortirana po hronološkom redu:

I have to admit last year I made less garments than I usually do, but the ones I did make were, in my opinion, fantastic. This is the list of my favorite self made garments, sorted in chronological order:
  • S kaput, koji sam napravila u Januaru, i od onda sam tražila svaku zgodnu priliku da ga obučem. Sama sam dizajnirala kaput, a kroj sam napravila prepravljajući kroj drugog (potpuno drugačijeg) kaputa.

    The S coat, made back in January. Since then I've been using every opportunity to wear it. I designed the coat myself, and made the pattern by altering a different coat's pattern.

  • Nora haljina, napravljena u Februaru. Osnov za kroj je gornji deo Nora haljine sa Burda Style sajta, dosta izmenjen kako bih napravila zanimljiv izrez oko vrata. Kroj za suknju sam sama pravila. Haljina je univerzalna, jer je prikladna i za svakodnevne i za svečane prilike. Zapravo, sinoć sam je nosila na proslavi nove godine.

    The Nora dress, made back in February. The bodice is based on the Nora pattern from Burda Style, but it was heavily altered in order to get that interesting neckline. The skirt part was self drafted. The dress is rather universal and convenient for both daily and formal occasions. In fact, I wore this very dress for the NYE party two nights ago.

  • Kineska haljina, napravljena u Aprilu. Još jedna kombinacija komercijalnog kroja iz Burde i mog modelovanja.

    Qipao, made in April. Another combination of a commercial pattern and my drafting.

  • Paunova suknja - ova suknjica ima ponajmanje mog udela u dizajnu, od svih prikazanih stvari, budući da je napravljena po kroju iz Burde. Ipak, veoma je volim, i nosila sam je do besvesti tokom godine.

    The peacock's skirt - this skirt does not have any sort of my design built into it, since it was made using a commercial pattern. However, I love it very much and I've been wearing it a lot during the year.

  • Pantalone sa reverima - moj originalan dizajn, a napravljene prepravljanjem Bella kroja za pantalone sa Burda Style sajta.

    Pants with collar - my original design, made by altering the Bella pants pattern from Burda Style website.

  • Sirena haljina, koju sam šila dok sam bila u Njujorku, specijalno za Burda Style sajt. Kroj je iz Burda časopisa, ali je dosta izmenjen, dok je detalj sa faltama duže prednjeg panela moj originalan dizajn. Osim modela haljine, kod nje mi se sviđa i pertolej boja, koja me ovih dana veoma fascinira.

    The mermaid dress, which I made while staying at NYC, specially for the Burda Style website. The pattern was from the Burda magazine, but it was altered a lot. The front pleating detail is my original design. Besides the dress' model, I love the petrol color. In fact I've been fascinated by this color recently.

Suma sumarum, mogu se pohvaliti da je minula godina bila i te kako uzbudljiva, dinamična i, rekla bih, veoma uspešna. Ne znam da li će mi se ukazati prilika da ponovim ovakvo iskustvo, osećam se kao da sam ove godine na krojačkom planu postigla onakav uspeh kakav je Novak Đoković ostvario u tenisu.

All in all, I can say the last year was very exciting, dynamic and successful. I don't know if I'll ever have a chance to repeat this sort of experience - I feel like I made, in the sewing world, a success equal to the one Novak Djokovic did in tennis.