Novo izdanje Sew News časopisa (Decembar 2012.- Januar 2013.) / A new issue of Sew News magazine (December 2012 - January 2013)

Mislim da je vreme da serijal postova o TR Masterklasu prošaram i nekim drugim temama. 

Pre neki dan sam dobila Decembarsko - Januarsko izdanje Sew News časopisa za 2012. / 2013. godinu, u kome je objavljen moj omiljeni S kaput, koji sam šila početkom prošle godine. Kaput je jednostavnog oblika i neobičnog kroja, sa šavovima u obliku latiničnog slova "S". Šavovi su naglašeni paspulom u šavu u kontrastnoj boji. Pored specifičnog kroja, kaput krase i paspulirane rupice za dugmad, obrađene istom keder trakom kao i ostatak kaputa. Naravno, tu su i dugmići u boji paspula, koji daju kaputu vrlo elegantan izgled.

I think it's about time to interrupt my TR Masterclass series with other topics.

I received the December - January 2012 / 2013 issue of Sew News magazine a few days ago. The issue features my favorite S coat, that I sewed at the beginning of the last year. The coat has a simple shape and an unusual cut, with seams shaped like the letter "S". The seams are accentuated with a piping in a contrasting color. Besides the unusual cut, the coat is enhanced with bound buttonholes, emphasized by the same piping cord as the rest of the coat. The buttons in a matching color give the coat quite elegant look.

A evo kaputa na meni. Ne mogu da vam opišem koliko sam željno čekala da dobijem nazad svoje čedo :). Na žalost, moraću da sačekam da se lokalna snežna oluja smiri, a temperatura pređe u plus, da bih ga nosila.

And here's the coat on me. I can't describe enough how impatient I was to get my precious back :). Unfortunately, I'll have to wait until the local snow storm calms down, and the temperature reaches values above zero to wear it.

MMM '11: Dan 29 / Day 29

Dan dvadeset deveti

Opet pokazujem već viđene stvari (košulja i kaput) ali u novoj kombinaciji.

Day twenty nine

Again, I'm showing the already worn garments (the shirt and the coat), but in a new outfit.

MMM '11: Dan 21 / Day 21

Dan dvadeset prvi:

• Bluza - kroj iz Burde 10/2005, #112. Košulja ima nabran okovratnik. Malo sam izmenila rukave - produžila ih i malo proširila oko zgloba, kako bih dobila nabore. Takođe, dodala sam manžetne.
• Pantalone - već prikazane četvrtog dana.
• Kaput - S kaput, već prikazan petnaestog i devetnaestog dana.

Day twenty first:

• Blouse - BWOF pattern 10/2005, #112. The blouse has a gathered neckline. I slightly altered the sleeves – I lengthened them and made them bit wider in the wrist area and added cuffs. That made this puffy effect I like very much.
• Pants - already shown on day four.
• Coat - the "S" coat, already shown on days fifteen and nineteen.

MMM '11: Dan 19 / Day 19

Dan devetnaesti:

• Pantalone - Bella kroj sa BurdaStyle sajta. Blago su izmenjene, time što sam uklonila falte na džepovima.
• Kaput - već prikazan petnaestog dana.

Day nineteen:

• Pants - Beela pattern from BurdaStyle. They're slightly altered; I removed the pleats from pockets.
• Coat - already shown on day fifteen.

MMM '11: Dan 15 / Day 15

Dan petnaesti:

• TR suknja, koju sam sama modelovala. Pročitajte više o tome ovde.
• "S" kaput, koji sam skoro sama modelovala. Pročitajte više o tome ovde.

Day fifteen:

• TR skirt that I drafted. Read more about it here.
• The "S" coat that I almost completely drafted by myself. Read more about it here.

"S" kaput, deo 11 / The "S" coat, part 11

Konačno imam lepe fotografije "S" kaputa! Jako sam zadovoljna time kako je ispao, što se može videti i na slikama :-).

Finally I have nice photos of the "S" coat! I am very pleased with how it looks, as you can see on the pics :-).

"S" kaput, deo 10 / The "S" coat, part 10

Ne znam da li ću imati vremena da šijem pre vikenda. Zato vam ostavljam par sličica da vidite kako izgleda kaput pre nego što je prišivena postava. Već izgleda dobro! :-)

I'm not sure I'll have time to sew before the weekend. So I'm sharing with you a few pictures of the coat, before the lining is attached. It already looks good! :-)

"S" kaput, deo 9 / The "S" coat, part 9

Pokazaću vam kako sam ušila rukave kaputa. 

I'll show you how I sewed the coat's sleeves.

Prvo sam špenadlama pričvrstila keder traku za manžetnu rukava, a zatim proštepala delove zajedno.

First I pinned the piping cord to the sleeve cuff. Then I stitched them together.

Zatim sam spojila manžetnu sa ostatkom rukava. Nakon štepanja sam raspeglala šavove.

After that I attached the sleeve cuff to the sleeve. I pressed the seams open after running them through the sewing machine.

Sašila sam rukav, presavila opšivak poruba ka unutra i prepeglala porub.

I made a sleeve, folded the hemline inwards, and pressed it well.

Kada uglavljujem rukave, koristim relativno jednostavan metod. Prvo namestim donji deo rukava i pričvrstim ga špenadlama za otvor rukava.

When setting in the sleeve, I use a relatively easy method. First I layout the lower part of the sleeve and pin it to the armscye.

Zatim špenadlama pričvrstim vrh kugle rukava za šav na ramenu.

Then I pin the sleeve's top to the shoulder seam of the armscye.

U sledećem koraku uhvatim rukav za otvor rukava na par mesta. Na slici ispod možete videti kako rukav pravi valove na mestim gde nije pričvršćen. To je zbog toga što kugla rukava ima veći obim od obima otvora za rukav.

In the next step I pin the sleeve to the armscye on a few points. You can see on the picture below how the sleeve forms waves on those parts where the pins are missing. This is due to the sleeve head's ease.

U sledećem koraku ispravljam formirane valove tako što koristim veliki broj šenadli koje gusto raspoređujem duž otvora rukava. Možete videti kako se rukav gotovo glatko uklapa u otvor rukava. Moram da napomenem - što je materijal tanji, to je gušći niz špenadli potreban da bi se rukav glatko uglavio.

In a next step I straighten the formed waves of the sleeve by pinning the sleeve to the armscye with a dense set of pins. You can see how the sleeve fits into the armhole smoothly. Note that you'll need more pins for thinner fabrics.

Evo kako izgleda rukav koji je potpuno uglavljen u otvor rukava, pre šivenja.

Here's how the sleeve looks when it's completely pinned to the armhole.

I evo kako izgleda ušiven rukav. Primetite da se valovi vide kada se špenadle sklone, ali je rukav svejedno glatko uglavljen i nema nabora duž linije šava.

And here's how it looks after running it through the sewing machine. Note that the waves can be seen on the sleeve, while the sleeve is smoothly sewed to the armhole, without any puckering.

Konačno, evo kako rukav izgleda spolja, pre peglanja.

Finally, here's how the sleeve looks from the right side, before pressing the seams.

Evo šta još treba da uradim na kaputu:

• Da prišijem kragnu,
• Da prišijem naramenice, 
• Da spojim delove postave,
• Da prišijem postavu za kaput,
• Da prišijem dugmad.

Here's what's left to do on a coat:

• To attach a collar,
• To sew in shoulder pads,
• To sew together lining pieces,
• To attach the lining to the coat,
• To sew in buttons.

"S" kaput, deo 8 / The "S" coat, part 8

Paspulirane rupice za dugmad se šiju kao i paspulirani džepovi. Koristim keder traku za paspuliranje. Pokazaću vam na parčetu materijala kako se prave ovakve rupice za dugmad.

Prvo sam ojačala lepljivim platnom materijal. Zatim sam iscrtala pravougaonik koji predstavlja rupicu za dugme. Prethodno sam pažljivo izmerila keder traku i zaključila da mi je potrebna rupica širine 1cm. Dugmad koje ću koristiti su prečnika 3cm, tako da je rupica isto toliko duga. Isekla sam dva parčeta keder trake par santimetara duže od dužine rupice.

Bound buttonholes are made the same way as vented pockets. I'll use the piping cord for these buttonholes.

I'll show you on a scrap of fabric how bound buttonholes are made.

First I reinforced the fabric with a piece of fusible interfacing. Then I drew a rectangle on the fabric, that represented a shape of the buttonhole. Before drawing the buttonhole I carefully measured the width of the piping cord and calculated that the buttonhole should be 1 cm wide. The buttons I'll use are 3 cm wide in radius, so the buttonhole should be 3 cm long as well. I cut two pieces of the piping cord, few centimeters longer than the length of the buttonhole.

Pričvrstila sam špenadlama keder traku za ivicu rupice. Obratite pažnju na položaj u kome stoji keder traka u odnosu na rupicu: zadebljali deo trake je okrenut tako da praktično stoji izvan okvira rupice.
Zatim sam prišila traku za materijal. Ovde sam bila jako pažljiva i vodila računa da štep ide tačno od ivice do ivice okvira i ne prelazi ga. Pošto je precizno šivenje veoma važno, smanjila sam dužinu boda na 1mm.

I pinned the piping cord to the buttonhole's edge. Note the position of the piping cord on the buttonhole: the piping part of the cord lays outside of the buttonhole.

Then I sewed the cord to the fabric. I was very careful while sewing, making sure that the stitch ran exactly from one edge to the other, and didn't cross over the buttonhole edge. Since precise stitching is essential, I set the stitch to be 1 mm long.

Zatim sam isto uradila i sa drugim parčetom keder trake.

I repeated the process with the other piece of piping cord.

Kada su trake prišivene, treba proseći materijal. Ovde je bitno da imate makaze sa veoma oštim vrhom, kojim možete da napravite precizne rezove. Rupicu sam presekla po sredini, zaustavivši se na otprilike 5mm od bočnih ivica. Zatim sam napravila dijagonalne rezove ka horizontalnim ivicama. Ovde je bitno da se ne preseče sam šav, ali da se napravi rez koji ide do samog šava.

Once the cords are sewed to the fabric, the fabric needs to be cut. It's essential to have a pair of scissors with very sharp points. I cut the buttonhole along its center, and stopped cutting approximately 5 mm away from side edges. Then I made diagonal cuts towards the corners of the buttonholes. It is essential here not to cut through the stitch line.

Zatim sam prevrnula keder trake na naličje.

Then I pulled the cords to the wrong side of the fabric.

I poslednji korak: presavila sam materijal duž bočne ivice i prišila ovaj mali trouglić za keder trake. Ovde je bitno da šav postavite na samu ivicu rupice. Naravno, obe strane rupice treba obraditi na isti način. Zatim sam otsekla višak keder trake.

And the last step: I folded the fabric along the shorter edge of the buttonhole and sewed this little triangle to the cords. It is essential to position the stitching line to the very edge of the buttonhole. I repeated the process on both sides and cut off the extra length of the cords.

Evo kako rupica izgleda nakon peglanja.

Here's how the buttonhole looks after pressing.

Sedam rupica kasnije, evo kako izgleda moj kaput.

Seven buttonholes later, here's how my coat looks.

Uporedo sa rupicama, napravila sam otvore za rupice na opšivku prednjeg dela kaputa. 

Along with making bound buttonholes, I made the holes on the front facing of the coat. 

Sledeći na tapetu su rukavi.

The next step is setting in the sleeves.

"S" kaput, deo 7 / The "S" coat, part 7

Konačno dođosmo i do šivenja! Iskreno, nisam mogla da dočekam da počnem da šijem kaput, jer je to moja omiljena faza u izradi odeće. 

Kao što ste mogli da primetite u prošlom postu, spojila sam prednje i zadnje gornje delove kaputa, kao i prednje i zadnje donje delove kaputa. Pošto se keder traka umeće između njih, htela sam da je umetnem u jednom cugu, kako ne bih sekla traku.

Prvo sam prišila keder traku za donji deo kaputa. 

We've finally came to sewing! Truth to be told, I couldn't wait to start sewing the coat, since that's my favorite  part of making clothes.

As you might have noticed in the last post, I joined the front and back top pieces, as well as the front and back bottom pieces. Since the piping cord is inserted between these two sections, I wanted to attach it in one piece, without the need to cut in several pieces.

First I sewed the piping cord to bottom part of the coat.

Zatim sam našila gornji džep.

Then I attached the top pocket.

Gornje delove sam prvo ojačala štepom duž S-krive, a zatim sam napravila male rezove duž zakrivljenih ćoškova. Rezovi služe za lakše uklapanje konkavnih i konveksnih oblika. 

I reinforced the top pieces by making a stitch along the S-curve. Then I made small cuts along the curved corners. These cuts serve for easier matching of convex and concave pieces.

Nakon dosta rada, fircanja, šivenja i raspeglavanja šavova, evo kako kaput izgleda.

After a lot of work, pinning, sewing and pressing, this is how the coat looks.

Sledeći korak su paspulirane rupice za dugmad. 

The next step is making bound button holes.

"S" kaput, deo 6 / The "S" coat, part 6

Ovaj post će biti sa malo teksta, budući da slike ilustruju sve. 

Evo mog materijala, postave, keder trake i dugmadi. Sve u zelenim tonovima, od limete do maslinasto zelene. Prva ideja je bila da napravim kopčanje sa skrivenim dugmićima, ali promenila mišljenje kada sam videla ove dugmiće. Odlična kombinacija tonova!

This post will have more photos than text, since the photos illustrate my point.

Here's a picture of my fabric and notions: lining, buttons and the piping lace. It's all in shades of green, going from limete to olive. My initial idea was to make a button closure with hidden buttons, but I changed my mind the minute I saw these buttons. I think it's an excellent color combo!

Evo kako sam ojačala delove lepljivim platnom: 

• Manžetne rukava su potpuno oblepljene
• Donji prednji i zadnji delovi kaputa imaju ojačanje duž linije poruba, kao i ojačanje duž S-krive
• Gornji prednji i zadnji delovi imaju takođe ojačanje duž S-krive; zadnji delovi su ojačani preko leđa i oko izreza rukava, a prednji delovi su ojačani oko rukava i duž ramena.
• Gornji i donji deo kragne su celi ojačani
• Prednji opšivak kaputa (i leva i desna strana) je takođe ceo ojačan.

U sledećem postu konačno prelazim na šivenje. Već sam dosta toga uradila, ali bi ovaj post bio prevelik da opišem sve što želim.

Here's how I interfaced the pattern pieces using a medium weight fusible interfacing:

• The sleeve cuffs are completely fused
• Bottom front and back pieces have interfacing along the hem line, and along the S-curve
• Top front and back pieces also have interfacing along the S-curve; back pieces are interfaced over the upper back and around the armholes; the front pieces are interfaced along the armholes and along the shoulder lines
• Top and bottom collar pieces are completely interfaced
• Front facing (left and right sides) is also completely interfaced.

In the next post I'll finally write about the sewing. I have already done a lot of work, but this post would have been too long if I wrote about all the details I've done.