Jan 7, 2011

"S" kaput, deo 3 / The "S" coat, part 3

Zadnji delovi se menjaju na potpuno isti način kao i prednji. Stoga, neću opisivati detaljno sve korake, ali evo par slika koje ilustruju proces.
Prvo sam uporedila zadnji bočni deo sa bočnim prednjim delom, i obeležila na bočnoj ivici zadnjeg dela tačku kroz koju mora da prođe "S" kriva.

The back pattern pieces are altered in a same way as the front pieces. Therefore, I will not describe each step in detail, but I'll illustrate the process with few photos.
First, I compared the back side panel to the front side panel, and marked a point on the back panel where the "S" curve should go through. 


Zatim sam ponovila poznat postupak: iscrtala horizontalnu liniju na bočnom delu i zakrivila je prema unutrašnjoj ivici kroja.

Then I repeated the described alteration process: I drew a horizontal line on the side panel and curved it towards the medial side of the panel.


Spojila sam donje delove duž unutrašnjih ivica, tako da su linije poruba poravnate.

I fixed the back pieces together along their medial sides, making the hemline one continuous line.


I presekla bočni deo duž iscrtane krive. Ovaj put sam imala sreće - bočni i zadnji deo ne formiraju vertikalnu brusnu, tako da nema potrebe da dodatnim izmenama bočnog panela.
Spojila sam gornje delove tako da je ramena linija poravnata.

I cut the side panel along the drawn curve. I was lucky this time - the side and the center panels didn't form a vertical dart, so there was no need for additional pattern corrections.
I joined the top pieces of the pattern, forming a continuous shoulder line.


Iscrtala sam horizontalnu liniju na centralnom delu i zakrivila je prema unutrašnjoj ivici kroja.

I drew a horizontal line on the central panel and curved it towards the medial side of the panel.


Presekla sam centralni deo duž iscrtane linije. Pošto su krojni delovi formirali prilično široku brusnu, morala sam da korigujem centralni panel na dva mesta, koristeći ranije opisan postupak. Dakle, imala sam dve horizontalne korekcione brusne na gornjem zadnjem delu. Liniju krive sam pomerila uvis za oko 2.5cm, koliko je iznosio zbir širina dve pomenute horizontalne brusne.

I cut the central panel along the drawn curve. Since the pattern pieces formed a rather wide vertical dart, I had to alter the central panel on two places, using the previously described process. Hence I ended up with two horizontal correctional darts on the top back piece. I altered the curve by shifting up one side by approximately 2.5cm - a cumulative width of the two horizontal darts.


Evo kako zadnji krojni delovi izgledaju nakon mojih intervencija.

Here's how the back pieces look after my alterations.


U sledećem postu ću opisati kako sam napravila kroj za džepove i kako sam izmenila rukave.

In the next post I'll describe how I drafted pockets and the alterations I made on sleeves.

2 comments:

  1. Theses posts are really interesting. However, everytime I see the title in my reader I startled because "kaput" is like "kaputt" in German, which means "broken". So I ask myself "oh what's broken, what happened?". And then I remember it means "coat" to you :)

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  2. postovi su ti jako detaljni i meni veoma korisni mnogo sam naučila o krojenju pretražujući tvoj blog , hvala ti zbog toga draga moja ...

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