We assembled front and back bodice panels of the Nougat dress and made the gathers square on Friday. If you're making view B, today's post will be the beginning of sewing for you. Those of you who are making view C, please be patient a few days more.
Današnji post će vam pokazati kako se pravi romb sa naborima. Pokazaću vam metod koji sam koristila kako bih olakšala šivenje, a koji nećete videti ni u jednoj knjizi, ubeđena sam. Naime, šićemo preko papira, pa je potrebno da pripremite jedan komad, veći od romba. Poželjno je da papir bude relativno mek i da se lako cepa. Ja sam koristila papir koji je dosta tanji od klasičnog papira za štampač. Ukoliko imate flis papir (onaj u koji se uvija cveće ili koji se koristi za pečenje kolača), možete koristiti taj.
Poželjno je da uradite test šivenje preko papira - uzmite komad papira i parče tkanine, postavite jedno preko drugog i proizvoljno proštepajte kroz mašinu. Pokušajte da pocepate papir duž šava - trebalo bi da se papir lako cepa i da ne ostavlja iskrzanu liniju duž štepa.
Sigurno se pitate - čemu taj papir? On nije apsolutno neophodan, ali će vam drastično olakšati posao i smanjiti konfuziju oko toga kako treba postaviti platno i kako namestiti nabore na rombu, posebno ako šijete varijaciju A haljine. U nastavku posta ćete shvatiti bolje o čemu pričam.
Ukoliko šijete varijaciju B, iskrojte kvadrat za nabore od odgovarajuće tkanine, a prema krojnom delu M.
Today's post will show you how to make the gathered diamond. I will show you the method I used to make the sewing as easy as possible, and I'm sure you won't find this method anywhere in the sewing books. We're gonna sew on paper, so you'd better prepare a piece of it, that's bigger than the diamond block. The paper should be rather thin and soft, and easy to rip off. I used a piece that's a lot thinner than the printer paper. Tissue paper will do just fine.
You must be wondering -what's the paper for? It isn't absolutely necessary, but it makes your sewing a lot easier and reduces the confusion you might have when setting the layers of fabric and arranging gathers on the diamond, especially if you're sewing view A. You'll understand me better when you read the whole post.
If you are making the view B, cut the gathers square in a matching fabric, using the
Pripremite kroj za romb / Prepare the diamond pattern
Dakle, prekopirajte romb na papir, prenesite sve brojevne oznake sa njega, i jasno napišite na rombu "LICE MATERIJALA".
So, copy the diamond panel to the paper, transferring all the numerical marks to it. Label the copied diamond with "RIGHT SIDE".
Obeležite potom na rombu raspored boja materijala. Možete postaviti romb ispod prednjeg gornjeg bloka, kako biste se lakše snašli sa rasporedom boja. Ovim ste naznačili na rombu u kom redosledu po bojama treba da budu postavljeni nabori.
Ako šijete varijaciju B, ovaj korak možete preskočiti.
Now label the arrangement of the colors on the diamond. You can put the diamond beneath the front bodice panel, to help you with the arrangement. This way you have marked the arrangement of the gathers' colors on the diamond.
If you are making the B view, you can skip this step.
A sada kod temena romba sa oznakama 4 i 10 obeležite boje SUPROTNE od onih koje inače odgovaraju tim ćoškovima. Ukoliko ste se zbunili, pogledajte sliku ispod - ćošku br. 4 odgovara svetla boja, ali ja sam pored ispisala veliku i podvučenu oznaku tamne boje. Obrnuto stoji kod ćoška br. 10.
Now make the labels at notches 4 and 10 with the OPPOSITE colors from the ones that correspond to these corners. If you're confused, take a look at the picture below - the notch 4 corresponds to the light fabric, but I put a big dark label next to it. The opposite stands for the notch 10.
Okrenite papir na naličje i prekopirajte ivice romba, brojevne oznake i poslednje dve oznake boja. Ispišite na rombu oznaku "NALIČJE MATERIJALA".
Na sredini romba iscrtajte kvadrat dužine ivica 2cm.
Isecite komad tkanine koju ste koristili za ojačanje gornjeg dela haljine, veličine papira na kom je iscrtan romb. Postavite LICE romba na NALIČJE materijala i prišijte ih jedno za drugo, postavljajući šav na otprilike 2 cm od ivice romba. Opscecite materijal i papir na 0.5 cm od šavova, kako biste smanjili površinu sa kojom radite.
Flip the paper so that the wrong side is faced up and transfer the diamond shape and notches to it. Label it with the "WRONG SIDE" label.
Draw a square at the center of the diamond, with edges being 2 cm (3/4") long.
Cut a piece of the interlining fabric, as big as the paper is. Lay the RIGHT SIDE of the diamond over the WRONG SIDE of the fabric and sew them together, sewing approximately 2 cm (3/4") away from the diamond's edges. Cut off the extra fabric, cutting 0.5 cm (3/8") away from the stitch line.
Napravite nabore na rombu / Make gathers on the diamond
Postavite NALIČJE romba na LICE kvadrata za nabore. Pri tom, vodite računa da se odgovarajuće oznake na rombu poklapaju sa tamnim, odnosno svetlim poljima na kvadratu (polja krojnih delova K1). Poravnajte centar kvadrata za nabore sa centrom romba. Proštepajte delove zajedno, šijući duž ivica kvadrata iscrtanog u središtu romba.
Lay the WRONG SIDE of the diamond over the RIGHT SIDE of the gathers square, making sure the corresponding labels on the diamond match with dark / light panels of the square (K1 triangles). Align the center of the square with the center of the diamond. Sew the layers together, stitching along the central square's edges.
Prosecite sve slojeve kroz proštepani kvadrat, praveći rez na 0.5 cm od šava. Uklonite papir koji je ostao između slojeva materijala.
Cut out the square through all the layers, leaving 0.5 cm (1/3") wide SAs. Remove the paper that remained between the layers of fabric.
Provucite kvadrat za nabore kroz rupicu na rombu.
Pull the gathers square through the whole in the diamond.
Poravnajte lepo kvadrat za nabore preko romba. Ukoliko ste sve obavili kako treba, trebalo bi da gledate u lice kvadrata, a ispod njega bi trebao da se nalazi romb okrenut licem ka vama. Takođe, tamno polje kvadrata bi trebalo da se nalazi preko tamne oznake na rombu, a svetlo polje preko svetle oznake.
Zarotirajte kvadrat za nabore za 180°, u smeru suprotnom od kretanja kazaljke na satu. Pri tom, vodite računa da se romb ispod ne pomera i ne rotira.
Flatten the gathers square over the diamond. If you did everything right, the gathers square should be placed with the face up, having the diamond beneath it, also with its face up. The dark field of the gathers square should be laid over the light label on the diamond, and the light field over the dark label.
Rotate the gathers square anti-clockwise by 180°, making sure the diamond beneath it isn't moving nor rotating.
Uvrtanjem kvadrata napravili ste lepe nabore na sredini, a rupa koju ste prosekli se zatvorila. Sada bi svetlo polje kvadrata trebalo da se nalazi preko tamne oznake na rombu i obrnuto.
Špenadlama pričvrstite kvadrat za nabore i romb. Pri tome, vodite računa da šavovi koji spajaju panele na kvadratu budu savršeno poravnati sa brojnim oznakama na rombu, kao i da se boje sa kvadrata poklapaju sa oznakama boja na rombu. Najpre špenadlama uhvatite šavove kvadrata, a potom se igrajte sa naborima.
Primetite da ovde imate mogućnost da kontrolišete volumen nabora na rombu. Ako ivice kvadrata više zategnete, tj. povučete ka spolja, nabori će imati manji volumen, i obrnuto. Ja sam želela da romb ima bogate i raskošne nabore, pa sam kvadrat prilično labavo pričvrstila za romb. (Ako pogledate haljinu koju sam šila po kroju za varijaciju B, primetićete da je romb mnogo manje pufnast, upravo zbog zatezanja materijala.)
By twisting the gathers square, you've made some nice gathers in the center of the diamond, and the whole you had cut has been closed. At this point, the light field of the gathers square should be placed over the dark label on the diamond and vice versa.
Pin the gathers square to the diamond, making sure the seams on the square align with the corresponding notches on the diamond perfectly. So, pin the seams of the square first and then plat with arranging the gathers.
Note that you can control the volume of the gathers on the diamond. The more you pull the square's edges outside of the diamond, the less volume the gathers will have, and vice versa. I wanted a diamond with nice voluminous gathers, so I pinned the square to the diamond quite loosely. (Take a look at the view B dress I made, you'll see how the diamond has less gathers on it, and pulling the fabric caused that.)
Kada ste aranžirali nabore prema vašem ukusu, profircajte sve slojeve, prateći iscrtanu ivicu romba. Koristite kratak bod, kako biste što bolje pričvrstili nabore. Kada ste sve profircali, uklonite špenadle.
Once you have arranged the gathers the way you like it, hand-baste all the layers, following the diamond's edge. Use short stitch to secure the gathers well. When the basting is done, remove the pins.
Okrenite romb na naličje i uklonite papir. Budite veoma pažljivi, kako ne biste oštetili firc.
Flip the diamond so that it faces wrong side up and tear off the tissue paper. Be careful not to damage the hand-basting.
Otsecite višak materijala, ostavljajući dodatke za šavove širine 1.5 cm . Izendlajte ivice romba.
Cut off the extra fabric, leaving 1.5 cm (1/2") wide SAs and serge the edges.
Pišijte romb sa naborima / Set in the diamond with gathers
Sada je vreme da prišijete romb za ostatak gornjeg dela haljine. Savetujem vas da to radite kada ste odmorni i smireni, jer ovaj deo posla ume da bude prilično naporan. Takođe, trudite se da što više i preciznije urircate delove pre nego što ih zaista spojite, jer je bitno da se šavovi nabora na rombu i spiralni šavovi na prednjem panelu savršeno uklope.
Spajajte jednu po jednu stranicu - poravnajte šavove, profircajte delove, proverite da li su šavove dobro postavljeni i prošijte ih mašinom.
Now you can sew the diamond to the front bodice panel. I advise you to do this when you're fresh and relaxed, since this part of the job can be really heavy. Also, try to hand-baste as much and as precisely as you can, because it's essential to match the seams on bodice and diamond perfectly.
Sew one side of the diamond at the time - align the seams, hand baste the panels, check if the seams are well matched and sew.
Kada ste prišili jednu stranicu romba, napravite mali zasek na prednjem panelu, u tački gde je prišiveno teme romba. Rez treba da ide do same linije šava, ali vodite računa da ne presečete sam šav.
When one side of the diamond is sewed, snip the bodice panel at the point where the diamond's vertex is stitched. The cut should go through the stitch, but be careful not to cut the stitch itself.
Nastavite sa ušivanjem romba. Kada ste prišili sve četiri stranice romba, završite šivenje prednjeg panela, šijući duž centralnog prednjeg šava, odmah ispod romba.
Continue sewing in the diamond. When all four sides are sewn in, finish the bodice front by sewing the center front seam below the diamond.
Raspeglajte šavove i uživajte u pogledu na vaš savršeno prišiveni romb sa naborima. :)
Press the seams and enjoy in your beautiful bodice front.
Ako ste dovde stigli, budite ponosni! Najteži deo posla je obavljen, a ostatak je relativno jednostavan. U narednom članku ćemo sašiti pojas za suknju i prišiti suknju za gornji deo haljine.
Prethodni postovi o Nugat haljini / Previous articles about the Nougat dress: