OK, do sada smo sastavili prednji i zadnji deo Nugat haljine, a sada je vreme da ih spojimo.
OK, so far we've constructed the front and back panels of the Nougat dress, now it's time to join these together.
Prošijte bočne šavove / Sew side seams
Prvo ćemo šiti desni bočni šav. Poravnajte prednji i zadnji deo haljine duž desnog bočnog šava, vodeži računa da su vertikalni šavovi savršeno uklopljeni. Pričvrstite delove špenadlama, a zatim počnite da šijete mašinom, u pravcu od pazuha ka porubu. Zaustavite šav u nivou kukova.
First, we're gonna sew the right side seam. Align the back and front dress panels along the right side seam, making sure the horizontal seams match perfectly. Pin the layers together and start sewing from armhole towards the hemline, stopping the stitch at the hip.
Obratite pažnju na to da smo u prethodnom koraku šili kroz sva četiri sloja suknje od linije struka naniže. Ostatak bočnog šava je potrebno prošiti odvojeno za svaki od slojeva.
Pomerite donji sloj suknje u stranu, pa pričvrstite špenadlama gornje slojeve suknje duž bočnog šava. Počnite da šijete od tačke u kojoj ste zaustavili šav u prethodnom koraku, i nastavite da šijete ka porubu haljine. Izendlajte dodatke za šavove zajedno.
Note that in the previous step we sewed through all four skirt layers from the waist line down. Now we need to sew the remain of the side seam separately for each of the skirt layers.
Move the bottom layers to the side and pin the top front and back skirt panels along the side seam. Start stitching from the point where the previous stitch ended and continue through the hem line. Serge the SAs together.
Ponovite postupak sa donjim slojevima suknje. Pomerite gornji sloj suknje u stranu i proštepajte ih. Obradite zajedno dodatke za šavove. Prepeglajte šavove zasebno za svaki sloj.
Now repeat the process for the bottom layers of the skirt. Move the top skirt layers to the side and sew the side seam. Serge the SAs together. Press the seams on each layer separately.
Na levoj bočnoj strani ostavite otšivene šavove od linije kuka naviše, a ostatak šava obradite kao što ste obradili na desnoj strani haljine. Žuta linija na slici ispod pokazuje tačku u kojoj sam počela da šijem bočne šavove sa leve strane haljine.
On the left side seam, leave the seams un-sewed from the hip-line up, and finish the remaining seam the same as you did on the right side. The yellow line on the picture below shows you where I started sewing the side seam on the left side of the dress.
Prišijte rajsferšlus / Insert a zipper
Profircajte neprošivene bočne šavove sa leve strane haljine, vodeći računa da se horizontalni šavovi dobro uklapaju. Raspeglajte šavove.
Hand baste the opened side seam, matching the horizontal side seams perfectly. Use short stitches, to secure the seam. Press the seams open.
Otvorite rajferšlus i prepeglajte ga - odmotajte zupce na rajsferšlusu dok ga peglate.
Zatvorite rajsferšlus i pričvrstite ga špenadlama za dodatke za šavove.
Unzip the zipper and iron it. Uncurl the zipper teeth when pressing.
Close the zipper ans pin it or hand baste it to the seam allowances.
Unpick the hand basting and open the zipper.
Ukoliko imate papučicu za šivenje nevidljivog rajsferšlusa, koristite je prilikom prišivanja istog. Ja je nemam, pa koristim ove dve papučice.
If you have a presser foot for an invisible zipper, use it to sew the zipper to the dress. I use these feet.
Zatvorite rajsferšlus i proverite da li se horizontalni šavovi dobro uklapaju.
Close the zipper and check if all the horizontal seams are in place and that there's no gaping between front and back side seams.
Close the zipper and check if all the horizontal seams are in place and that there's no gaping between front and back side seams.
Ukoliko je rajsferšlus duži od bočnog šava, osigurajte kraj malo ispod početka šava i otsecite višak. Ja obično koristim cik-cak bod užine 0.5 mm u ovu svrhu, i napravim par bodova preko zubaca rajsferšlusa.
If the zipper is longer than the seam, secure the end and cut of the extra length. I usually use the zick-zack stitch and set the length to 0.5 mm and run a few stitches over the zipper teeth.
Zaboravila sam da uslikam haljinu u ovoj fazi, ali sigurno već imate ideju o tome kako bi trebalo da izgleda. Prepeglajte bočni šav sa lica materijala, kako bi se ispravio rajseršlus.
I forgot to snap a photo of the dress in this stage, but you already know how it looks, so I suppose this won't be a problem. Press the side seam from the right side, to flatten the zipper.
U narednim postovima ćemo sastaviti poostavu. Kako je kroj za postavu identičan kroju za varijaciju C, šivenje će konačno početi za one koji šiju ovu verziju haljine.
We will assemble a lining in the next post. Since the lining has the same pattern as the view C, those of you who're interested in this variation will finally start sewing.
Prethodni postovi o Nugat haljini / Previous articles about the Nougat dress:
http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/nougat-dress-1301-sewalong-sastavite_27.html