Paspulirane rupice za dugmad se šiju kao i paspulirani džepovi. Koristim keder traku za paspuliranje. Pokazaću vam na parčetu materijala kako se prave ovakve rupice za dugmad.
Prvo sam ojačala lepljivim platnom materijal. Zatim sam iscrtala pravougaonik koji predstavlja rupicu za dugme. Prethodno sam pažljivo izmerila keder traku i zaključila da mi je potrebna rupica širine 1cm. Dugmad koje ću koristiti su prečnika 3cm, tako da je rupica isto toliko duga. Isekla sam dva parčeta keder trake par santimetara duže od dužine rupice.
Bound buttonholes are made the same way as vented pockets. I'll use the piping cord for these buttonholes.
I'll show you on a scrap of fabric how bound buttonholes are made.
First I reinforced the fabric with a piece of fusible interfacing. Then I drew a rectangle on the fabric, that represented a shape of the buttonhole. Before drawing the buttonhole I carefully measured the width of the piping cord and calculated that the buttonhole should be 1 cm wide. The buttons I'll use are 3 cm wide in radius, so the buttonhole should be 3 cm long as well. I cut two pieces of the piping cord, few centimeters longer than the length of the buttonhole.
Pričvrstila sam špenadlama keder traku za ivicu rupice. Obratite pažnju na položaj u kome stoji keder traka u odnosu na rupicu: zadebljali deo trake je okrenut tako da praktično stoji izvan okvira rupice.
Zatim sam prišila traku za materijal. Ovde sam bila jako pažljiva i vodila računa da štep ide tačno od ivice do ivice okvira i ne prelazi ga. Pošto je precizno šivenje veoma važno, smanjila sam dužinu boda na 1mm.
I pinned the piping cord to the buttonhole's edge. Note the position of the piping cord on the buttonhole: the piping part of the cord lays outside of the buttonhole.
Then I sewed the cord to the fabric. I was very careful while sewing, making sure that the stitch ran exactly from one edge to the other, and didn't cross over the buttonhole edge. Since precise stitching is essential, I set the stitch to be 1 mm long.
Zatim sam isto uradila i sa drugim parčetom keder trake.
I repeated the process with the other piece of piping cord.
Kada su trake prišivene, treba proseći materijal. Ovde je bitno da imate makaze sa veoma oštim vrhom, kojim možete da napravite precizne rezove. Rupicu sam presekla po sredini, zaustavivši se na otprilike 5mm od bočnih ivica. Zatim sam napravila dijagonalne rezove ka horizontalnim ivicama. Ovde je bitno da se ne preseče sam šav, ali da se napravi rez koji ide do samog šava.
Once the cords are sewed to the fabric, the fabric needs to be cut. It's essential to have a pair of scissors with very sharp points. I cut the buttonhole along its center, and stopped cutting approximately 5 mm away from side edges. Then I made diagonal cuts towards the corners of the buttonholes. It is essential here not to cut through the stitch line.
Zatim sam prevrnula keder trake na naličje.
Then I pulled the cords to the wrong side of the fabric.
I poslednji korak: presavila sam materijal duž bočne ivice i prišila ovaj mali trouglić za keder trake. Ovde je bitno da šav postavite na samu ivicu rupice. Naravno, obe strane rupice treba obraditi na isti način. Zatim sam otsekla višak keder trake.
And the last step: I folded the fabric along the shorter edge of the buttonhole and sewed this little triangle to the cords. It is essential to position the stitching line to the very edge of the buttonhole. I repeated the process on both sides and cut off the extra length of the cords.
Evo kako rupica izgleda nakon peglanja.
Here's how the buttonhole looks after pressing.
Sedam rupica kasnije, evo kako izgleda moj kaput.
Seven buttonholes later, here's how my coat looks.
Uporedo sa rupicama, napravila sam otvore za rupice na opšivku prednjeg dela kaputa.
Along with making bound buttonholes, I made the holes on the front facing of the coat.
Sledeći na tapetu su rukavi.
The next step is setting in the sleeves.
