Štepalica: Mar 6, 2014

Mar 6, 2014

Zlata skirt sewalong: #4 Fitting alterations for protruding rear

* KLIKNITE za tekst na srpskom

If you have a protruding rear you've probably noticed an issue when wearing skirts or dresses - the buttocks rises the skirt on the back so that the hemline isn't parallel to the ground and looks longer on the front than on the back. Also, the problem can be caused by a specific posture that protrudes your rear.
I know I have this problem with skirts, but so does my friend, who posed in the skirt instead of me. Well, the skirt sits as it should on me, and I wasn't aware of the problem on her until the photo-shoot.
Today I'll show you how to alter the pattern to balance the hemline so that is parallel to the floor.

First you need to define how much you need to alter the pattern, and where it should be altered. I advise you to make a muslin first in order to make this alteration.

Measure the distance between the top of the waistline and the most protruding point of your buttocks (the upper line on the picture), measure along the center back line - in the further text, I'll address this measurement as the rear length.

Also, measure the difference between the hemline length on the front and back (the distance between the two bottom lines) - in the further text I'll address this measurement as the correction length.

We'll alter the back lining pattern first, and then transfer the change to the back skirt panel.

So, measure the rear length reduced by the height of the back waist yoke on the back lining panel, along the CB line. Mark the point on the pattern. Draw a curve parallel to the top edge of the pattern, so that the curve crosses the marked point.

Also, draw a vertical line, parallel to the CB line, ad distanced from it by 2 / 3 of the waistline width. The line should connect the top and bottom edges of the pattern.

Cut the pattern along the curve, cutting in direction from the CB line towards the side seam, stopping few millimeters from the side edge. Also, cut the pattern along the vertical line, cut in direction from the top edge towards the new cut on the pattern. Shift the top CB cutoff up, translating it by the correction length. Fill the gap with a piece of paper. Rotate the top side cutoff in the clockwise direction, until the bottom points of the two cutoff panels meet.

Cut the pattern along the vertical line, by cutting the pattern all the way through the hemline.

Close the top dart by rotating the right side of the pattern in counterclockwise direction. Fill the gap with a piece of paper.

Smoothen the hemline at the filled gap.

Finally, smoothen the side edge of the pattern so that it forms a straight line.

The changes made on the lining pattern should be transferred to the back skirt panel. Due to the pleats, this can be a rather difficult task to do, but the alterations on the lining and a trick I'll show you will make this alteration rather simple.

So, take a rather large piece of paper, much bigger than the back skirt panel (I used a piece of paper with dimensions of 70 cm x 100 cm) and transfer to it the following lines from the original skirt panel:

L1 - center back line
L2 - center pleat fold line
L3 and L4 - fold lines of the second pleat
L5 and L6 - fold lines of the side pleat
Transfer the top pattern edge
Transfer the top lines of the belt loops

When transferring the lines, make sure the pattern's hemline is distanced at least 10 cm from the edge of the paper.

Fold the paper as shown on the picture:

Fold the paper along the line L2
Fold the paper so that the lines L3 and L4 meet
Fold the paper so that the lines L5 and L6 meet

Lay the altered lining pattern over the tissue paper, making sure the top edge of the lining matches the patterns' top edge on the tissue paper. Transfer the lining pattern to the paper.

Once the pattern is copied, unfold the paper - you can already see the shape of the new skirt panel.

Complete the pattern following these guidelines:

Draw a new hemline (the blue line) - it should be parallel to the lining hemline and distanced 4 cm from it.
Draw a new border line for the View B (the green line) - it should be parallel to the skirt hemline, and distanced 15.5 cm from it.
Transfer the dashed pleat fold lines (the dashed blue lines)

And that's it! Your pattern is altered and ready to be sewed.

Zlata Sewalong - the posts

Tomorrow we'll cut the fabric and transfer all the pattern marks to it.

Stay tuned!

How to buy the pattern

Zlata skirt pattern costs $11.98,and it can be bought via my Etsy shop.
I use 2Checkout as a payment collector - it is an equivalent to PayPal - which accepts the following payment methods:

* PayPal via 2checkout (www.2co.com)
* Credit / Debit cards via 2checkout : Visa, Dina Card, Master Card, American Express, Discover

PayPal doesn't support selling option for my country yet, so I use 2Checkout payment collector instead.

When making a purchase order, select "Other" in the payment options. I have to manually issue an invoice for you, via 2Checkout system. The invoice contains a link where you can complete the purchase - it's a page on 2Checkout's website. Once you fill in your billing information, you can chose to pay either by using PayPal account or your credit card. You don't have to register to 2checkout and you won't be charged any additional fees. It's simple, fast and secure. Once the payment is completed, I will enable the pattern download on my Etsy store. I monitor the state of my Etsy store several times a day, and I get instant emails whenever any change is made, so the purchase is usually completed within the same day. Sometimes, due to my daily duties and a time zone differences, it takes more than a day to complete the purchase.

For any additional information about the pattern or the purchase, feel free to email me at: anajan.stepalica [at] gmail [dot] com.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #4 korekcija kroja za isturenu zadnjicu

* CLICK to read the text in English

Ukoliko ste takve telesne građe da imate isturenu zadnjicu, verovatno ste imali problema sa suknjama i haljinama, koje stoje tako da deluju duže s prednje nego sa zadnje strane. Ovaj problem se može javiti i ukoliko vam je držanje takvo da isturate zadnjicu, pa vam linija struka, gledano iz profila, ne stoji paralelno sa podom, već pod nagibom prema prednjoj strani.

Sličan problem imam i sama, ali i moja drugarica, koja je pozirala umesto mene u suknji. Do duše, suknja na meni stoji ravno, pa do samog fotografisanja nisam primetila da je neophodna korekcija.

Danas ću vam pokazati kako da korigujete kroj kako bi suknja bila lepo balansirana i porub stajao paralelno sa podom.

Najpre je neophodno utvrditi koliko je potrebno promeniti kroj, i na kom mestu. Za ovaj korak, savetujem da napravite test kroj i isprobate ga.

Duž sredine zadnjeg dela suknje izmerite odstojanje od vrha pojasa do najisturenijeg dela zadnjice (gornja horizontalna linija) - u daljem tekstu ću ovu meru zvati dužina zadnjice.

Takođe, izmerite kolika je razlika između poruba na prednjoj i zadnjoj strani suknje (rastojanje između donje dve horizontalne linije) - u daljem tesktu ću ovu meru zvati dužina korekcije.

Izmenu ćemo prvo napraviti na zadnjem krojnom delu postave, a potom ćemo korekciju preneti i na sam panel suknje.

Dakle, na zadnjem panelu postave, odmerite dužinu zadnjice, umanjenu za visinu pojasa, i obeležite dobijenu meru na središnjoj liniji - ivici kroja. Potom iscrtajte krivu liniju, paralelnu sa gornjom ivicom panela, udaljenu od nje za dobijenu vrednost.

Takođe, iscrtajte vertikalnu liniju duž kroja - odmerite dve trećine dužine gornje ivice kroja, mereno od središnje linije (ivice kroja) i kroz tu tačku povucite liniju paralelnu sa ivicom kroja. Liniju povucite do linije poruba kroja.

Presecite kroj duž iscrtane krive linije, secite od središnje linije ka bočnoj ivici, i zaustavite se na par milimetara od nje. Takođe, presecite kroj duž vertikalne linije, od gornje ivice kroja do novonastalog preseka. Gornji srednji odsečak pomerite na gore, pomerajući ga za dužinu korekcije. Razmak između delova popunite parčetom papira. Bočni gornji isečak zarotirajte ka spolja, dok se njegova donja ivica ne poklopi sa gornjim srednjim odsečkom.

Isecite kroj duž vertikalne linije, sve do ivice poruba.

Novonastalu brusnu zatvorite, rotiranjem bočne strane kroja. Zalepite delove duž brusne, a novonastali razmak popunite parčetom papira.

Korigujte liniju poruba glatkom krivom.

Konačno, korigujte bočnu ivicu kroja, tako da formira pravu liniju.

Ove izmene je potrebno preneti na zadnji panel suknje. Zbog falti koje su sastavni deo kroja, ovaj proces može biti komplikovan, ali uz korekcije koje smo napravili na postavi i mali trik koji ću vam pokazati, korekcija će biti prilično jednostavna.

Dakle, uzmite poveći komad papira, mnogo veći od vašeg zadnjeg panela suknje (ja sam radila sa papirom dimenzija 70 cm x 100 cm), i precrtajte na njega sledeće duži sa originalnog kroja:

L1 - središnja linija
L2 - pregib središnje falte
L3 i L4 - pregibi druge falte
L5 i L6 - pregibi bočne falte
Obeležite liniju spajanja kroja sa pojasom
Obeležite gornje ivice gajki za kaiš

Prilikom precrtavanja, gledajte da liniju poruba kroja pomerite bar 10 cm od ivice papira

Savijte papir kao što je prikazano na slici:

Savijte papir duž linije L2
Savijte papir tako da se linije L3 i L4 spoje
Savijte papir tako da se linije L5 i L6 spoje

Postavite korigovani kroj za postavu preko isavijanog papira, vodeći računa da se gornja ivica kroja poklapa sa ivicom spajanja suknje sa pojasom. Prekopirajte kroj postave na papir.

Kada ste prekopirali kroj, otvorite pregibe na papiru - već se nazire novi oblik panela za suknju.

Kompletirajte kroj na sledeći način:

Iscrtajte novu liniju poruba (puna plava linija) - ova linija treba da bude paralelna sa linijom poruba postave, i udaljena 4 cm od nje.
Iscrtajte novu liniju bordure za varijaciju B (puna zelena linija) - ova linija treba da bude paralelna sa linijom poruba, i udaljena 15.5 cm od nje
Precrtajte spoljne pregibe falti (isprekidane plave linije)

I to je to! Vaš kroj je korigovan i spreman za šivenje.

Šivenje Zlata suknje - članci

Sutra ćemo iskrojiti materijal i preneti sve oznake falti sa kroja na tkaninu.

Pratite dalje postove!

Kupovina kroja

Zlata kroj za suknju košta $11.98, ali kupci iz Srbije ovaj šnit mogu kupiti za upola manje novca, tj. za 500 RSD.

Kroj se može kupiti u dolarskoj valuti preko moje onlajn prodavnice na Etsy sajtu, ili uplatom novca u dinarskoj valuti na moj žiro račun.

Napominjem da dinarske cene ne važe ukoliko kupujete preko Etsy prodavnice.

Za sve dodatne informacije o kupovini, molim vas šaljite mi email na adresu: anajan.stepalica [at] gmail [dot] com.

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