How to finish a shirt collar with a bias band

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Have you ever tried finishing a collar or a sleeve cuff with a bias band? The process is not very complicated if you're patient enough to execute it neatly. You need a bias band, which should be made of soft and thin fabric - it's usually made of cotton or satin and it's around 4 cm wide. Of course, if you want the detail to be wider, you will need a wider bias band.

The technique I'll show you today can be used for finishing collars on coats and jackets as well as on shirts.

So, cut the collar panels and reinforce them with a fusible interfacing, which should be applied to the wrong side of the fabric.

Run a stitch on the top collar panel, following the shape of the collar. The stitch will be a good sewing guide and it will give you a precise contour of the finished collar.

With right sides together, pin the bias band to the collar, following the contour of the previously made stitch. The bias band I used had the sides pressed inwards, so I tried to align the fold line of the band with the stitch line on the collar. If you're using a bias band which doesn't have the sides pressed like mine did, you can align the raw edge of the band with the stitch line on the collar - this will make the process somewhat easier.

After pinning the band, I unfolded the raw edge and changed the direction of the pins so that they were perpendicular to the stitch line. I used a dense set of pins on the curves, in order to prevent the fabric from gathering and making folds.

Sew the bias band to the collar. Sew with the wrong side of the collar up, and run the seam 0.5 cm away from the previously made stitch. Of course, the new stitch should be placed "inside" the existing one.

Cut off the excess seam allowances on the bias band - this will reduce the bulk and make molding the tape around the curves of the collar easier.

Press the bias band to the side and sew it to the collar, by positioning the stitch line 0.5 cm away from the fold line. You will notice the band won't lay flat around the curves, which is fine as long as there are no gathers along the stitch line.

Clip the band along the curves to make to lay flat. Stop the cuts approximately a millimeter away from the stitch line.
Ideally, the stitch line should match the stitch that we made in the step one.

Lay the bottom collar panel over the upper one, with right sides together. Align the raw edges of the two layers and sew them together, by sewing with the upper layer facing up, and sewing over the stitch line made in the previous step.

Cut off the seam allowances, making them few millimeters wide.

Flip the collar inside out and pin the layers in place.

Topstitch the collar, by running the stitch next to the bias band. Optionally you can make the stitch invisible using the stitch in the ditch technique. The top stitching will fix the collar so that it doesn't deform after washing and wearing the shirt.

 

You can use the same technique to finish the sleeve cuffs and the button placket.
Note: When working on a sleeve cuff, the final topstitching should be done after the cuff is sewed to the sleeve.

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• Numerous faces of the blouse BWOF 1/2008, #108

Kako paspulirati kragnu

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Da li ste probali kad da paspulirate kragnu ili manžetne? Postupak nije mnogo komplikovan, ako ste dovoljno strpljivi da ga precizno odradite. Potrebna vam je paspul traka, tj. traka sečena pod uglom od 45 stepeni u odnosu na pravac tkanja materijala. Poželjno je da traka bude od mekog i tankog materijala, obično se pravi od pamuka ili satena, i da bude oko 4 cm široka. Naravno, ako želite da paspul bude širi od prikazanog na košulji, trebaće vam i šira traka. 

Tehnuku koju ću vam ovde pokazati možete koristiti i za paspuliranje kragni na jaknama i kaputima.

Dakle, iskrojte krojne delove za kragnu, pa na naličje materijala nalepite lepljivo platno.

Proštepajte gornji sloj kragne duž same ivice šava. Štep će vam biti odličan graničnik za šivenje i daće vam preciznu konturu kragne i oblik koji će imati kada bude gotova.

Prateći konturu štepa, pričvrstite paspul traku za kragnu, postavljajući je licem prema licu kragne. Pošto je paspul traka bila prepeglana, gledala sam da se štep na kragni poklapa sa pregibom paspul trake. Ukoliko je vaša paspul traka raspeglana, možete poravnati njenu ivicu sa štepom, biće vam lakše za manevrisanje.

Potom sam otvorila paspul traku duž pregiba, a pravac špenadli promenila tako da budu normalno postavljene u odnosu na pravac štepanja. Na prevoju kragne sam koristila gust niz špenadli, kako bih se osigurala da se tkanina nigde ne pregiba, kao i da prati oblik kragne.

Prišijte traku za kragnu, šijući s naličja kragne, i postavljajući štep na 0.5 cm od prvobitno proštepane linije. Naravno, štep postavite unutar postojećeg. 

Otsecite dodatak za šav na paspul traci, kako biste smanjili zadebljanje materijala, ali i da biste olakšali njeno oblikovanje prema zadatim krivim konturama.

Prepeglajte paspul traku ka spoljnoj ivici kragne, pa je prišijte za kragnu, postavljajući šav na 0.5 cm od ivice pregiba trake. Primetićete da traka ne stoji ravno na uglovima kragne, to je u redu, ukoliko je traka proštepana tako da nema nikakvih pregiba tkanine duž linije štepa.

Da bi paspul traka ravno legla na kragnu, zasecite dodatke za šavove normalno u odnosu na liniju štepa, zaustavljajući rez na par milimetara od samog štepa.

U idealnim uslovima, poslednji štep bi trebalo da se savršeno poklopi sa štepom iz prvog koraka.

Postavite panel za donji sloj kragne preko gornjeg, licem materijala prema licu. Poravnajte ivice, pa prišijte slojeve materijala, šijući po liniji šava koji ste napravili u prethodnom koraku. 

Suzite dodatke za šavove, tako da budu tek nekoliko milimetara široki.

Izvrnite kragnu iznutra ka spolja, pa špenadlama pričvrstite slojeve materijala.

Kragnu proštepajte šijući s gornje strane, tik uz paspul traku. Na ovaj način ćete je fiksirati tako da se ne deformiše posle pranja i nošenja.

 

Isti princip možete primeniti i na manžetnama rukava, kao i na traci za kopčanje košulje.
Napomena: Kada radite sa manžetnom rukava, poslednji šav, koji štepate uz paspul traku, proštepajte tek nakon što ste manžetnu prišili za rukav.

Povezani članci

• Košulja sa paspul detaljima
• Kako obraditi šlic na rukavu bluze
• Šivenje manžetne rukava na bluzi
• Uglavljivanje rukava na bluzi
• Brojna lica bluze iz Burde 1/2008, #108