Počela sam da radim na kroju za jaknu koju planiram da šijem u okviru
RTW Tailoring Sewalong-a koji je zakazan za april. Da podsetim, jakna bi trebalo da izgleda kao na slici ispod.
Da budem iskrena, još se uvek dvoumim da li da šijem jaknu ili mantil. U svom skladištu materijala imam divan materijal kome ne znam ni sastav ni ime, koji jako liči na antilop kožu, i oduševio me čim sam ga videla. Problem je u tome što imam dovoljno materijala za mantil, i ne bih da ostanem sa restlovima od kojih ne mogu ništa da sašijem. S druge strane, pitam se da li mi je zaista potreban još jedan mantil...
I started working on a pattern for the jacket I'm planning to sew during the RTW Tailoring Sewalong, that's scheduled for April. To remind you, the jacket should look as on the picture below. To be honest, I'm still thinking whether I should make the jacket or a coat. The thing is, I have a gorgeous fabric in my stash - I don't know what't it made of, nor its name, but it really looks like velour leather, and I liked it the minute I saw it. The issue here is that I have enough fabric to make a coat, and I hate cutting the fabric and having leftovers that I can't use anymore. On the other hand, I wonder whether I really need another coat...
Rešila sam da kao osnov koristim isti kroj kao i za S kaput, koji ima princes šavove koji idu do ramena. Ovaj kroj je već isproban, podešen prema mojim merama, tako da mogu sebi da skratim bar taj deo posla. Ipak, ono na čemu treba da poradim je kragna.
Moram da priznam da nikada ranije nisam modelovala sličnu kragnu, ali koristim se zdravom logikom i iskustvom koje imam, pa se nadam da ću, uz test kroj, uspeti da materijalizujem svoju ideju.
I decided to use the same pattern I used for the S coat as a basis for this jacket/coat. The pattern is already tried and trued, fitted to my measurements, so I can reduce at least some part of the job. However, I still have to draft a collar.
I have to confess that I never drafted a similar collar, but I'm using logic and the experience I have, so I hope that I'll manage to materialize my idea with a little help from a muslin.
Da bih dobila kragnu kakvu želim, izmenla sam centralni prednji panel kroja. Pokazaću vam šta sam uradila sa krojem.
Najpre sam odredila dubinu izreza dekoltea. Na slici 1 to je horizontalna linijica. Zatim sam kosom linijom spojila rameni šav sa prednjim dodatkom za kopčanje, u visini oznake dekoltea (plava linija na slici 2). U visini oznake dekoltea sam povukla horizontalnu liniju, paralelnu sa linijom poruba (plava linija na slici 3). Proizvoljno sam odredila dužinu horizontalne linije, ali na slici možete videti da linija prelazi preko bočnog šava kroja (isprekidana crvena linija). Malo sam zakrivila hotizontalnu liniju, i spojila levu tačku krive sa ramenom. Šrafirana površina na slici 3 predstavlja oblik kragne.
In order to draft the collar I want to, I had to alter the center front panel. I'll show you what I did with the original pattern.
First I defined the depth of the neckline- the horizontal line on the image 1. Then I drew a bias line that joined the top of the neckline with the button closure line (blue bias line on the image 2). I drew a horizontal line, parallel to the hemline, that was in the line with the marked notch (blue line on the image 3). I arbitrarily defined the length of the horizontal line; as you can see on the image, it crosses over the side seam of the panel (dashed red line). I curved the horizontal line a bit, and joined the end point of the curve with the shoulder line. The graphed area on the image 3 represents the shape of the collar.
Šrafiranu površinu sam prekopirala na novi list papira, i isekla ga duž iscrtanih ivica.
I copied the graphed area on a new piece of paper and cut it along the drawn lines.
Zatim sam nalepila panel kragne na centralni prednji panel.
Then I glued the collar panel to the center front panel, as shown on the picture.
Sledećih par koraka sam radila prema osećaju, i nisam 100% sigurna da sam sve odradila baš kako treba, tako da ću svoj eksperiment proveriti na test kroju. Kroj za jaknu koji pravim mora imati prednji i zadnji deo kragne urađen iz jednog dela. Kroj za kragnu koju sam maločas izmodelovala je, očigledno, samo za prednji deo okovratnika, i potrebno je dodati još deo koji će se našivati na zadnji panel.
Na slici ispod je prikazan kroj za rusku kragnu, koji sam koristila za S kaput. Primetite vertikalnu liniju na donjoj ivici kragne - ta linija predstavlja oznaku gde kragna naleže na rameni šav kaputa. Dakle, deo kragne od oznake nalevo je zadnji deo okovratnika. Prekopirala sam zadnji deo okovratnika na novi list papira. Zbog orijentacije u prostoru, označila sam liniju pregiba, gornju i donju ivicu kragne.
The next few steps were done by hunch, and I'm not 100% sure I did everything right, so I'll test this experiment with a muslin. The collar pattern I'm making should have both front and back pieces merged into one panel. The pattern I drafted in previous steps, obviously represents just the front part of the collar, and it needs the back part.
The picture bellow displays the pattern for a mandarin collar, that I used for the S coat. Note the vertical notch on the bottom line of the collar - that's the notch where the collar is attached to the shoulder seam. Hence, the part of the collar that's left from the notch represents its back. I copied the back of the collar to a new piece of paper. In order to keep space orientation, I marked the fold line, as well as top and bottom collar lines on the new panel.
Nalepila sam prače papira na rameni deo centralnog prednjeg panela. Zatim sam isečak kragne postavila kao na slici. Kragna koju pravim je šira od ruske kragne, ali jasna vam je ideja. Dno ruske kragne je iste dužine kao dno nove kragne. Ipak, primetite da je gornja ivica nove kragne duža od ivice ruske kragne. Dodatnu dužinu sam dodala za svaki slučaj, nisam bila potpuno sigurna da je zaista neophodna.
I added a piece of paper on the shoulder seam of the center front panel. Then I laid the collar cut off as shown on the picture. The collar I'm making is a bit wider than the collar cut off, but you get the idea. The bottom of the collar cut off is the same length as the bottom of the new collar. Note that the top line of the collars don't match. I added an extra length just in case, though I wasn't quite sure it was necessary.
