Pre nekog vremena sam, na nekom blogu (zaboravih koji beše), pročitala post o omiljenim krojevima, i koliko ih eksploatišemo tokom šivenja. Jedno od pitanja koje se postavilo je da li svako od nas ima svoj omiljeni kroj, i ako ga imamo, da li smo ga koristili više puta ili samo jednom.
U mom slučaju, rekla bih da imam par omiljenih krojeva, koje mrcvarim do besvesti i menjam do neprepoznatljivosti, tako da svaka stvar napravljena po njima izgleda drugačije. Odličan primer je kroj za bluzu iz Burde 1/2008, #108. Kada sam ga prvi put videla, nisam ni sanjala da će imati bezbrojne inkarnacije i višestruke živote. Prva bluza koju sam po njemu sašila više nije u mom vlasništvu, ali je očigledno pokrenula bujicu ideja, koje se i dalje nižu. Na slici ispod sam prikazala 10 bluza (a napravila sam ih mnogo više), koje sve potiču od istog kroja. Bluze na dnu su šivene za moju mamu (dole levo možete videti da imamo identične košulje, jedina razlika je u veličini).
Postavlja se pitanje - zašto uporno menjam kroj, umesto da jednostavno izvadim novi, već pripremljen kroj iz časopisa? Zato što je ipak jednostavnije i lakše malo promeniti već isproban i korigovan kroj, nego iz početka prolaziti kroz ceo proces korigovanja i isprobavanja modela, zarad detalja koji i sama mogu lako da napravim. Manipulisanje krojem daje mnogo mogućnosti, ali i pojednostavljuje proces.
Primera radi, rozikasta košulja sa slike (gornji desni ćošak) je inspirisana košuljom koju sam videla u italijanskom časopisu La Mia Boutique. Kada sam izvadila kroj iz magazina, bila sam pomalo skeptična i uporedila sam ga sa šnitom iz Burde. Naravno, razlika u modelima je bila očigledna. Tada sam shvatila da nabore ispod grudi - detalj koji me privukao na modelu iz LMB - mogu lako da dobijem malom izmenom na pomenutom kroju. Ostatak bluze - leđa, položaj šavova na ramenima, obim struka, dužina i sl. - je ostao nepromenjen, što znači da sam tačno znala kako će mi gotova bluza stajati. Poverenje koje imam u već isproban kroj je presudno za jednostavno, brzo i efektno šivenje.
I've read on some blog recently (forgot which one it was) a post about favorite patterns and how much the sewists use them. One of the questions was whether every sewist had his/her favorite pattern and whether he/she had used it more than once.
I'd say I have a few favorite patterns that I use and exploit unmercifully and alter them until they're unrecognizable, so that every new garment I make using them looks different. A great example is the blouse pattern from BWOF 1/2008, #108. I didn't think this pattern would have numerous lives and countless incarnations when I first saw it. The first blouse I made using it is no longer in my possession, but it apparently started a flow if ideas, that still keep coming. The picture above displays 10 of many more blouses I made using the named pattern. The blouses displayed on the bottom were made for my mom (you can see on the bottom left corner that we have identical blouses, the only difference is in their sizes).
The question is - why do I stubbornly alter the pattern every time, instead of tracing a new, already prepared pattern from the magazine? Because I find it far more easier to alter the tried and trued pattern a bit than to go through the whole process of fitting and truing the model, in order to get a detail I could have made myself. Pattern manipulation give numerous options and makes the whole process much easier.
For example, the pinkish shirt from the picture (top right corner) was inspired by a shirt I saw in the Italian magazine La Mia Boutique. I traced the blouse pattern but was rather skeptical, so I compared it with the BWOF pattern. The pattern differences were more than obvious. I realized then that I could have made the gathers under the bust myself - the detail that appealed to me in the first place. The rest of the blouse - the back, shoulder seams placement, waist circumference, length, etc. - stayed unchanged, meaning that I knew exactly how the finished blouse would suit me. The trust I have in the tried and trued pattern is essential for quick and efficient sewing.
