Danas ću vam pokazati kako se obrađuje šlic na rukavu bluze. Ovaj tutorijal nije novina u svetu krojaških blogera, ali ni jedan nisam imala prilike da vidim na sprskom jeziku, pa pomislih kako ne bi bilo na odmet da napišem instrukcije.
I'll show you how to finish a sleeve slit on a blouse. The technique is not a novelty in the sewing blogosphere, but I haven't had a chance to see any similar tutorials written in Serbian, so I thought it wouldn't hurt to write down the instructions.
Dakle, obeležite šlic na rukavu, premerite ga i iskrojte trakicu sledećih dimenzija:
- širina: 4 cm
- dužina: dužina šlica x 2 + 2-3 cm
Traku možete iskrojiti paralelno sa pravcem tkanja matarijala, ili pod uglom od 45 stepeni. Ako koristite prugasti materijal, kosa traka će imati veoma zanimljiv efekat.
So, mark the slit line on the sleeve. Measure the slit and cut a strip of fabric with the following dimensions:
- width: 4 cm
- length: slit lengthx 2 + 2-3 cm
You can cut the strip on straight grain or on bias. If you're using a striped fabric, a bias cut strip would add some drama to your shirt.
Isecite šlic duž iscrtane linije, pa se zaustavite na oko 5 mm od temena duži. Odatle secnite materijal dijagonalno ka temenima oznake šlica, vodeći računa da ne prosečete tkaninu dalje od krajnjih tačaka.
Cut the slit along the marked line, stopping the cutting approximately 5 mm away from the end of the line. Make diagonal cuts towards the endpoints of the slit, making sure you don't cut further from these points.
Postavite lice trakice na naličje rukava, poravnavajući njenu ivicu sa ivicom šlica. Pričvrstite tkanine špenadlama.
Lay the right side of the strip along the wrong side of the sleeve, aligning the raw edges. Pin the fabrics in place.
Otvorite šlic tako da formira pravu liniju, pa poravnajte ivice materijala celom dužinom. Proštepajte slojeve zajedno, vodeći računa da šav prolazi tik uz ćoškove šlica.
Open the slit so that it forms a straight line, and align it with the strip along it's length. Sew the fabrics together, making sure you sew next to the slit's endpoints.
Savijte slobodnu ivicu trakice na unutra, paveći pregib na 5 mm od ivice. Prepeglajte pregib. Prošivenu ivicu trakice prepeglajte tako da je šav lepo ispresovan.
Fold the free edge of the strip by 5 mm and press the fold line. Press to the side the sewed edge of the slit.
Savijte trakicu preko lica rukava, tako da pregib slobodne ivice prekriva prethodno napravljen štep. Pričvrstite slojeve materijala šenadlama.
Fold the strip over the right side of the fabric, so that the strip covers the previously made stitch. Pin the layers together.
Proštepajte duž slobodne ivice trakice, postavljajući štep tik uz ivicu pregiba.
Topstitch the strip, sewing right next to the fold line.
Otsecite krajeve trakice koji štrče sa rukava.
Spojte i poravnajte ivice šlica, postavljajući lice ka licu, pa napravite dijagonalni štep, koji spaja teme šlica sa ivicama.
Cut off the extra fabric from the strip.
Align the sleeve legs together, placing them with right sides together. Make a diagonal stitch, connecting the end point of the slit with its edge lines.
Preklopite delove rukava kao što je prikazano na slici, pa ga preleglajte.. Sada možete da spojite bočne šavove rukava, a potom i da prišijete manžetnu.
Lay the sleeve as shown on the picture and press it well. Your sleeve is now ready for sewing it along the side seams and for attaching a sleeve cuff.
