Tokom vikenda sam šila novu košulju. Poželeh da ponovim detalj sa davno napravljene bluze, koji kombinuje sitne faltice i šaru riblje kosti. Faltice su ručno pravljene, jedna po jedna, pa pomislih kako ne bi bilo loše da vam pokažem kako se iste šiju. Postupak nije težak, ali je spor i prilično monoton, tako da zahteva strpljenje i, naravno, malo preciznosti.
I was working on a new shirt this weekend. I wanted to copy a detail I made on a blouse that I sewed years ago, which combines tiny pintucks and chevron pattern. The pintucks are hand made, one at the time, so I thought it would bi nice to show you how to make them. The technique is not difficult, but it's time consuming and rather monotonous, so it requires patience and, off course, some precision.
Dakle, pripremite alat koji ćete koristiti: lenjir ili krojački metar, fino naoštrenu kredu u kontrastnoj boji u odnosu na vaš materijal i špenadle.
Isecite traku materijala, bar 5 cm dužu od dužine krojnih delova (pošto sam krojne delove sekla ukoso, ja sam dodala 15 cm na potrebnu dužinu) i bar 10 cm širu od širine koja će vam inače trebati za krojenje krojnih delova. Primera radi, ja sam iskrojila traku širine 140 cm i dužine 40 cm - to je bilo dovoljno za iskrajanje prednjih panela košulje (paneli idu od ispod grudi do poruba košulje), jedan sloj kragne i manžetne.
Prepare the tools you'll need: a ruler or a measuring tape, a sharpened chalk in a contrasting color and pins.
Cut a strip of fabric, at least 5 cm longer than the pattern (since I cut the shirt panels on bias, I added 15 cm to the pattern length) and at least 10 cm wider than the width you'd normally need for cutting your pattern pieces. As a reference, I cut a strip of fabric 140 cm wide and 40 cm long - this was enough to cut front shirt panels on bias (the panels are 30 cm long), one layer of collar and sleeve cuffs.
Prepare the tools you'll need: a ruler or a measuring tape, a sharpened chalk in a contrasting color and pins.
Cut a strip of fabric, at least 5 cm longer than the pattern (since I cut the shirt panels on bias, I added 15 cm to the pattern length) and at least 10 cm wider than the width you'd normally need for cutting your pattern pieces. As a reference, I cut a strip of fabric 140 cm wide and 40 cm long - this was enough to cut front shirt panels on bias (the panels are 30 cm long), one layer of collar and sleeve cuffs.
Obeležite ravnomerne razmake duž gornje i donje ivice materijala. Ja sam oznake postavljala na svaka 2 cm, ali vi možete birati gustinu faltica prema vašem ukusu. Bitno je da duži koje spajaju gornju i donju ivicu materijala budu paralelne međusobno, kao i sa pravcem tkanja materijala.
Savet: ukoliko ste otsekli poduži komad materijala (na primer, 60 cm i duži), obeležite još jedan niz oznaka, otprilike na sredini dužine materijala.
Mark equidistant notches along the top and bottom edge of the fabric. I made the marks on every 2 cm, but you can choose the density of the pintucks according yo your liking. What's important is that the lines connecting the notches have to be mutually parallel and on grain.
Tip: if your strip of fabric is long (for example, 60 cm or longer), make one more row of notches, somewhere at the middle of the fabric's length.
Mark equidistant notches along the top and bottom edge of the fabric. I made the marks on every 2 cm, but you can choose the density of the pintucks according yo your liking. What's important is that the lines connecting the notches have to be mutually parallel and on grain.
Tip: if your strip of fabric is long (for example, 60 cm or longer), make one more row of notches, somewhere at the middle of the fabric's length.
Presavijte materijal po dužini, prateći oznake na gornjoj i donjoj ivici materijala. Špenadlama pričvrstite materijal najpre u krajnjim tačkama, zatim lepo zategnite materijal kako bi se pregib što više definisao, pa uhvatite špenadlama i sredinu materijala.
Fold the fabric along its length, following the notches on top and bottom edge. Pin the fabric first in end points, tighten the fabric to define the fold line and pin the fabric at the center.
Fold the fabric along its length, following the notches on top and bottom edge. Pin the fabric first in end points, tighten the fabric to define the fold line and pin the fabric at the center.
Proštepajte materijal, postavljajući štep i iglu tik uz ivicu pregiba. Na slici ispod možete videti kako je materijal postavljen u odnosu na papučicu. Pri tom, obratite pažnju na to da je igla na mojoj mašini pomerena u krajnji desni položaj.
Savet: Ukoliko ne možete da pomerate položaj igle na vašoj mašini, predlažem da na ubodnoj pločici napravite oznaku (ukoliko ista već ne postoji), koja će predstavljati graničnik postavljanja materijala. U ovu svrhu možete koristiti komad samolepljive trake ili papira.
Štepajte jednu po jednu falticu dok ne završite proces.
Stitch the fabric, by running the stitch and needle right next to the fold line. You can see on the picture below how I laid the fabric under the presser foot. Also, note that I positioned the needle in the most right position.
Tip: If your machine doesn't have an option to switch the needle's position, I suggest making a positioning label on the machine that would guide your fabric. You can use an adhesive tape for this.
Sew one pintuck at time until you sew them all.
Stitch the fabric, by running the stitch and needle right next to the fold line. You can see on the picture below how I laid the fabric under the presser foot. Also, note that I positioned the needle in the most right position.
Tip: If your machine doesn't have an option to switch the needle's position, I suggest making a positioning label on the machine that would guide your fabric. You can use an adhesive tape for this.
Sew one pintuck at time until you sew them all.
Kada ste proštepali sve faltice, prepeglajte materijal - najpre sa naličja, a zatim i sa lica tkanine, prepeglavajući sve falte u istom smeru.
Sada je materijal spreman za sečenje prema kroju koji ste odabrali.
Once all the pintucks are made, press the fabric - first from the wrong side and then from the right side, pressing all the pintucks in a one direction.
The fabric is now ready for cutting following the pattern of your choice.
Panele košulje sam iskrojila ukoso, kako bih formirala šaru riblje kosti, koristeći tehniku koju sam već opisala na blogu. Pošto faltice, uprkos trudu, strpljenju i preciznosti, nisu uvek savršeno paralelne i sa jednakim razmacima, uklapanje u šaru riblje kosti nije uvek savršeno, ali je rezultal svejedno lep i zanimljiv.
I cut the shirt panels on bias and arranged them to form a chevron ornament, using the technique I had already described on the blog. Since the pintucks aren't always perfectly parallel and equidistant, arranging them into chevron isn't always perfect, but the end result is equally pretty and interesting.
Na slici ispod vidite krajnji rezultat i panel koji će biti deo košulje. Post o novoj bluzi sledi uskoro!
You can see the end result on the picture below - a panel that became a part of the shirt. A post about the shirt is coming soon!
You can see the end result on the picture below - a panel that became a part of the shirt. A post about the shirt is coming soon!
