"S" kaput, deo 9 / The "S" coat, part 9

Pokazaću vam kako sam ušila rukave kaputa. 

I'll show you how I sewed the coat's sleeves.

Prvo sam špenadlama pričvrstila keder traku za manžetnu rukava, a zatim proštepala delove zajedno.

First I pinned the piping cord to the sleeve cuff. Then I stitched them together.

Zatim sam spojila manžetnu sa ostatkom rukava. Nakon štepanja sam raspeglala šavove.

After that I attached the sleeve cuff to the sleeve. I pressed the seams open after running them through the sewing machine.

Sašila sam rukav, presavila opšivak poruba ka unutra i prepeglala porub.

I made a sleeve, folded the hemline inwards, and pressed it well.

Kada uglavljujem rukave, koristim relativno jednostavan metod. Prvo namestim donji deo rukava i pričvrstim ga špenadlama za otvor rukava.

When setting in the sleeve, I use a relatively easy method. First I layout the lower part of the sleeve and pin it to the armscye.

Zatim špenadlama pričvrstim vrh kugle rukava za šav na ramenu.

Then I pin the sleeve's top to the shoulder seam of the armscye.

U sledećem koraku uhvatim rukav za otvor rukava na par mesta. Na slici ispod možete videti kako rukav pravi valove na mestim gde nije pričvršćen. To je zbog toga što kugla rukava ima veći obim od obima otvora za rukav.

In the next step I pin the sleeve to the armscye on a few points. You can see on the picture below how the sleeve forms waves on those parts where the pins are missing. This is due to the sleeve head's ease.

U sledećem koraku ispravljam formirane valove tako što koristim veliki broj šenadli koje gusto raspoređujem duž otvora rukava. Možete videti kako se rukav gotovo glatko uklapa u otvor rukava. Moram da napomenem - što je materijal tanji, to je gušći niz špenadli potreban da bi se rukav glatko uglavio.

In a next step I straighten the formed waves of the sleeve by pinning the sleeve to the armscye with a dense set of pins. You can see how the sleeve fits into the armhole smoothly. Note that you'll need more pins for thinner fabrics.

Evo kako izgleda rukav koji je potpuno uglavljen u otvor rukava, pre šivenja.

Here's how the sleeve looks when it's completely pinned to the armhole.

I evo kako izgleda ušiven rukav. Primetite da se valovi vide kada se špenadle sklone, ali je rukav svejedno glatko uglavljen i nema nabora duž linije šava.

And here's how it looks after running it through the sewing machine. Note that the waves can be seen on the sleeve, while the sleeve is smoothly sewed to the armhole, without any puckering.

Konačno, evo kako rukav izgleda spolja, pre peglanja.

Finally, here's how the sleeve looks from the right side, before pressing the seams.

Evo šta još treba da uradim na kaputu:

• Da prišijem kragnu,
• Da prišijem naramenice, 
• Da spojim delove postave,
• Da prišijem postavu za kaput,
• Da prišijem dugmad.

Here's what's left to do on a coat:

• To attach a collar,
• To sew in shoulder pads,
• To sew together lining pieces,
• To attach the lining to the coat,
• To sew in buttons.