Da li ste se umorili od seckanja i fircanja? Bez brige, sada kreće zanimljiv deo - šivenje!
U ovom postu ću vam pokazati kako da sastavite prednje i zadnje gornje delove haljine, kao i kvadrat za nabore na rombu. Ovaj postupak je prilično jednostavan, pa verujem da nećete imati problema tokom rada.
No, pre nego što krenemo dalje, hoću da vas podsetim da Miss Dibs organizuje nagradnu igru, a pet srećnih čitalaca će dobiti na poklon kroj za Nugat haljinu. Okušajte sreću, posetite njen blog i ispratite nagradnu igru!
Are you tired of all the cutting and hand basting? Well, the fun part starts now - we're starting ti sew today!
This post will show you how to assemble front and back bodice panels and how to sew the gathers square for the central front diamond. This process is rather straight forward, so you shouldn't have any problems with it.
But, before we continue, I'd like to remind you Miss Dibs is hosting a giveaway, and five lucky winners will win the Nougat dress pattern. So, if you're feeling lucky, visit her blog and apply for the giveaway!
But, before we continue, I'd like to remind you Miss Dibs is hosting a giveaway, and five lucky winners will win the Nougat dress pattern. So, if you're feeling lucky, visit her blog and apply for the giveaway!
Sastavite prednji gornji deo / Assemble the bodice front
Dobra praksa prilikom šivenja bloka sastavljenog od brojnih delova je da poređate manje delove na radnu površinu tako da formiraju oblik gotovog bloka. Na ovaj način ćete izbeći greške i konfuziju oko redosleda sastavljanja delova.
Za prednji gornji blok, poređajte krojne delove A1 - A10 kao što je prikazano na slici. Uzimajte dva po dva panela i sastavljajte ih, postavljajući ih licem ka licu materijala. Kako koji šav prošijete, uklonite firc konac sa oba sastavljena dela. Vodite računa da paneli budu dobro poravnati, odnosno da se njihova temena savršeno poklapaju.
The best practice when sewing a block consisted of numerous pieces is to lay the pieces on a surface so that they form a shape of the final block. This way, you'll avoid any confusion.
For the front bodice, arrange the panels A1 - A10 as shown on the picture. Take two by two panels and sew, holding the right sides together. With each seam you sew, remove the basting from both panels along the seam line. Make sure the panels are well aligned, meaning that their end points are aligned and the seam lines match.
Press the seams open.
Sastavite zadnji gornji deo / Assemble the bodice back
Ponovite isti postupak i rasporedite na radnoj površini panele zadnjeg gornjeg bloka B1 - B5 i C1 - C5.
Repeating the same process, arrange the back bodice panels B1 - B5 and C1 - C5 in order of construction.
Nezgodna stvar kod šivenja brojnih šavova koji se susreću u istoj tački je zadebljanje koje silni šavovi mogu napraviti u toj tački. Kako biste smanjili debljinu tkanine u ovoj tački, otsecite ćoškove dodatak za šavove svakog od sastavljenih šavova. Dakle, proštepajte šav, raspeglaje ga i otsecite dodatak za šav, vodeći računa da ne zasečete sam šav. Primetite kako sam ja otsekla dodatke za šav, tako da je firc razotkriven celom svojom dužinom, a panel spreman za spajanje sa narednim komadima.
The tricky part of sewing multiple seams that all end at the same point is the bulk these make. So, to reduce the bulk, you need to clip off the SAs on each and every end point. Sew the seam, press it open, and clip the SAs (be careful not to cut the stitch line). Notice how I clipped the SAs, leaving the basted seam line clear for the next panel to come.
Levi i desni zadnji blok sastavite odvojeno. Zatim, postavljajući blokove licem ka licu, sastavite levu i desnu stranu. Pri tom, vodite računa da se sastavne tačke spiralnih šavova savršeno poklapaju na ova dva dela.
Assemble the left and right back bodice blocks separately. Then, with right sides together, sew the two blocks along the center back seam, making sure the central points of the spiral seams are perfectly aligned.
Press the seams open and enjoy your perfectly aligned seams :).
Sastavite kvadrat za nabore / Asemble the gathers square
Koriteći prethodno opisanu tehniku, iskrojte trouglove K1 - K3, prema sledećoj šemi:
- K1 - 1x od svetlog i 1x od tamnog materijala
- K2 - 2x od svetlog i 2x od tamnog materijala
- K3 - 2x od svetlog i 2x od tamnog materijala
Using the previously described techniques, cut the triangles K1 - K3 following this scheme:
- K1 - cut 1x in light and 1x in dark fabric
- K2 - cut 2x in light and 2x in dark fabric
- K3 - cut 2x in light and 2x in dark fabric
When cutting the fabric, add 0.5cm (1/3") wide seam allowances.
Poređajte trouglove na radnoj površini tako da formiraju oblik kvadrata, gde se naizmenično smenjiji delovi u različitim bojama, kao što je prikazano na slici ispod.
Arrange the triangles on a surface so that they form a square with alternating colors as shown on the picture bellow.
Počnite da šijete panele, postavljajući ih licem ka licu. Preporučujem da koristite redosled konstrukcije koji je prikazan na slikama ispod. Kako koji šav sašijete, izendlajte zajedno dodatke za šavove i prepeglajte ih u jednu stranu.
Start sewing the panels, with right sides together. I recommend the following order of construction, as displayed on the pictures. As you've sewn a seam, serge the SAs together and press them to the side.
Primetite da ne morate biti ekstra precizni prilikom poravnavanja šavova, pošto se centar kvadrate neće uopšte videti na gotovoj haljini.
Note that you don't have to be extra precise when aligning the seams, since the center of the square won't be visible at all.
Sada ste spremni da napravite romb sa naborima. Pokazaću vam neke prilično nekonvencionalne metode u sledećem članku, zato pratite dalje postove!
You're now ready to make a gathered diamond. I will show you some sewing methods that are rather unconventional in the next post, so stay tuned!
Prethodni postovi o Nugat haljini / Previous articles about the Nougat dress:
http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/nougat-dress-1301-sewalong-iskrojte.html
