Oct 15, 2011

Brojna lica bluze iz Burde 1/2008, #108 / Numerous faces of the blouse BWOF 1/2008, #108



Pre par meseci sam pisala o tome koliko koristim ovaj kroj za bluzu, i kako ga prepravljam svaki put kako bih dobila novi model. A onda pomislih - zašto ne bih napisala post o tome kako zapravo menjam kroj. Da podsetim, kroj u originalu izgleda ovako. Sasvim zgodno, paspul u šavovima naglašava linije kroja.

Few months ago I wrote about how much I use this blouse pattern, and how I alter it every time to make a new model. Then I thought - why not write a post about this? To remind you, the original pattern looks like this. Quite convenient, the piping accentuates the cutting lines on the shirt.


A evo kako šnit izgleda - na slici su samo krojni delovi za prednji deo košulje. 

And this is how the pattern looks - the pic shows only front pattern pieces.


Varijacija #1
Ja sam najčešće spajala u jednu celinu gornji bočni deo i donji panel, kao što je prikazano na slici. Vidite da se ta dva dela savršeno uklapaju, tako da uklanjanje šava između njih ne menja oblik bluze, ali umanjuje posao.

Variation #1
Most often, I merged the front top side and bottom pieces into one panel. As you can see, the two parts perfectly fit together, hence removing the seam between them wouldn't change the shape of the blouse, but it reduces the amount of job.


A evo kako gotova košulja izgleda. I dalje ima isti oblik, baš kao što sam i rekla.

And here's how the finished shirt looks like. As I said, it has the same shape as the original.


Varijacija #2
Malo veću izmenu kroja možete videti na slici ispod. Gornje delove sam spojila u jednu celinu. Kao što vidite, delovi formiraju malu brusnu pri dnu. Zatim sam prekrojila donji panel - šrafirana površina predstavlja izmenu originalnog oblika panela. Vidite da sam centralni gornji panel takođe izmenila, time što sam otsekla isti oblik sa dna panela. Donji panel se može dodatno menjati, što je posebno zanimljivo na prugastim mateijralima: može se preseći horizontalno a krojni delovi aranžirati tako da pruge menjaju pravac kao što je ilustrovano strelicama.

Variation #2
A bigger pattern alteration can be seen on the picture below. I merged the front top panels int one piece. As you can see, the panels form a dart on the bottom. After that, I altered the bottom panel - the graphed area represents the change of the original shape. You can see that I also altered the center top panel, by cutting off the same shape from its bottom. You can additionally change the bottom panel, which can give an interesting effect on striped fabrics: the panel can be cut horizontally, and the pattern pieces can be laid down so that the stripes change their direction, as illustrated on the picture with the arrows. 


Evo kako ove izmene izgledaju na košulji. 

Here's how these alterations look on a shirt.


Varijacija #3
Slika ispod ilustruje izmene koje imaju zanimljiv efekat: dobija se horizontalna brusna koja stoji ispod grudi, i koja je pri tom nabrana. Krojne delove koje ste dobili prethodnom izmenom spojte tako da formiraju savršeno ravnu liniju duž linije kopčanja. Primetićete da krojni delovi formiraju horizontalnu brusnu. Gornji deo dodatno proširite kao što je ilustrovano na slici. Kada šijete bluzu, naberite gornji deo brusne.

Variation #3
The pic bellow illustrates the alterations that give an interesting detail: a gathered horizontal dart placed under the bust. Merge the pattern pieces gotten by the previous alteration, so that they form a perfectly straight line along the button closure. You'll notice that the panels form a horizontal dart. Spread the top panel as shown on the picture. When sewing a blouse, gather the top part of the dart.


Evo kako košulja izgleda. 

And here's how the shirt looks.


Varijacija #4
Romantičnu, retro inspirisanu bluzu možete dobiti uz sledeće izmene kroja. Gornji deo, koji ste dobili izmenama za Varijaciju #2, precrtajte na novi list papira. Nacrtajte par linija koje spajaju ramenu liniju sa dnom, vodeći računa da su linije ravnomerno raspoređene. Isecite panel duž tih linija i raširite ga kao što je prikazano na slici. Što više raširite delove, to će košulja imati više nabora. 

Variation #4
You'll get a romantic, vintage looking blouse with the following alterations. Copy the top panel, gotten by alterations for the Variation #2, to a new piece of paper. Draw a few lines that connect the shoulder line with the bottom of the panel. Make sure the lines are equally spread. Cut the panel along the drawn lines and spread it as shown on the pic. The more you spread the pattern, the more gathers the blouse will have.


Evo kako ova bluza izgleda.

Here's how this blouse looks.


Ove četiri izmene daju mogućnosti za mnogobrojne bluze, koje sve mogu izgledati međusobno drugačije. Kombinovane sa različitim dezenima materijala, oblicima kragne i rukava, svaka varijacija ima svoju draž i izgleda potpuno drugačije. 

These four alterations give numerous options, that can all look completely different. Combined with different fabric patterns, collar and sleeve shapes, each variation has its own charm and looks totally different from the others.

10 comments:

  1. Fantastična si! Stvarno vešta! Osim toga, ma sve ti lepo stoji!Uvek se oduševim kad dođem na tvoj blog da vidim šta radiš...Ja nažalost nemam više vremena da se bavim šivenjem pa se tešim gledajući tvoje radove.Pozdrav,Ankica.

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  2. Thank you for sharing. It makes the process of changing the patterns around a little less daunting.

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  3. This was very interesting. I especially liked version 4. It was a style I hadn't seen before and I was amazed that by moving the gathers along the whole under bust that it gave such a feminine look, as you yourself said.

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  4. Svaka tebi cast! Ja se nikad nisam upustala u bas neko drasticno menjanje snitova. da li prvo radis neke probne modele ili odmah ovo bacas na materijal predvidjen za sivenje?

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  5. @Taci: Hvala! Hm, svaku od ovih varijacija sam odmah sila, bez prethodnog test kroja. Ali, posto sam bas dobro upoznala originalan snit, bila sam sigurna u to kakav efekat ce dati izmene. Kada sam sigurna da je osnovni kroj od koga krecem dobar, prilicno lako se upustam u dalje prepravke.

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  6. This is a very versatile pattern, and I love the little variations you have incorporated to achieve quite different looks. Beautiful!

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  7. Thank you so much for posting this - I'm about to sew this top for the first time, but I've been really inspired by your different variations. Each version looks beautiful.

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  8. @Robyn: be careful with the sizing - the pattern is rather big. I normally use size 38, but I had to trace it one size smaller. And I made several blouses for my mom and a friend, and had to use a size smaller pattern for them, too.

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  9. Brilliant. I LOVE how you manipulate the pattern to create many looks. Great.

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  10. This is amazing! I am really inspired by all your different iterations.

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