Šivenje manžetne rukava na bluzi / Sewing a sleeve cuff on a blouse

Evo još jednog, kratkog tutorijala, kojim ćemo kompletirati priču o šlicu na rukavu bluze. Kada je šlic obrađen, rukav treba prošiti duž bočnih šavova, tako da formira "cilindar".

Kroj za manžetne je u osnovi pravougaonik (koji može imati blage varijacije, zavisno od detalja - na primer, zaobljene ivice), par santimerata širi od obima ručnog zgloba, i duplo duži od potrebne dužine gotove manžetne. Pošto sam za lice manžetne koristila nafaltani materijal, ja sam svoje manžetne spajala od dva materijala. Flizelin nalepiti na naličje materijala, i to na onaj deo manžetne koji će biti na licu košulje - u mom slučaju, na nafaltani deo.

Here's another short tutorial, which will complete the story about the sleeve slit on a blouse. Once the slit is finished, the sleeve should be sewn along the side seams, so that it forms a tube.

The sleeve cuffs' pattern is a rectangle (which could have some slight variations, depending on details - for example, rounded ends), that's a few centimeters wider than the circumference of your wrist, and twice as long as the finished cuff. Since I used the fabric with pintucks for the upper layer of the cuffs, I joined two fabrics to get the basis of the cuff. I fused the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric, to the upper cuff's layer.

Saviti manžetnu na pola po dužini, pa prošiti bočne šavove. Stanjite dodatke za šavove na oko 5 mm. Izvrnite manžetne na lice i prepeglajte ih dobro.

Fold the cuff along it's length and sew the side seam. Cut off the SAs. Flip the cuffs inside out and press them well.

Kada prišivate manžetnu, najpre prišijte donji, unutrašnji sloj, za rukav - postavite lice materijala manžetne na naličje rukava. Najpre poravnajte ivice manžetne i šlica rukava, pa zatim i ostatak dužine. Primetite da je obim rukava širi od manžetne, pa je potrebno napraviti faltu na rukavu, prateći oznake na kroju.

Kada ste prišili donji sloj manžetne, prepeglajte materijal, peglajući sa naličja rukava, a u smeru od rukava ka manžetni, tako da se prošiveni šav potpuno ispresuje.

When attaching the cuff to the sleeve, sew the lower cuff's layer to the sleeve first - place the right side of the cuff to the wrong side of the sleeve. Align the cuff's ends with the sleeve slit's ends first and then align the rest of the length. Note that circumference of the sleeve is greater than the cuff's width, so make a pleat on the sleeve, following the pleat notches on the sleeve pattern.

Once the lower layer of the cuff is attached, press the sleeve, ironing in a direction from the sleeve towards the sleeve cuff.

Sada pažljivo presavijte spoljni sloj manžetne na unutra, tako da pregib prekriva prethodno napravljen šav. Špenadlama pričvrstite slojeve materijala. Opet, prilikom rada, krenite prvo od ivica šlica rukava, pa se pomerajte ka sredini.

Proštepajte manžetnu, vodeći štep tik uz ivicu pregiba tkanine. Prepeglajte manžetnu i rukav još jednom.

Carefully fold the upper layer of the cuff inwards, so that the fold line covers the previously made stitch. Pin the fabrics in place. Again, when working, start from the cuff's ends and continue towards the center.

Topstitch the cuff by stitching as close as possible to the fold line. Press the sleeve and the cuff once again.

Sada je rukav spreman da se spoji sa ostatkom košulje.

The sleeves are now ready to be sewn to the bodice of the blouse.