If you have a protruding rear you've probably noticed an issue when wearing skirts or dresses - the buttocks rises the skirt on the back so that the hemline isn't parallel to the ground and looks longer on the front than on the back. Also, the problem can be caused by a specific posture that protrudes your rear.
I know I have this problem with skirts, but so does my friend, who posed in the skirt instead of me. Well, the skirt sits as it should on me, and I wasn't aware of the problem on her until the photo-shoot.
Today I'll show you how to alter the pattern to balance the hemline so that is parallel to the floor.
First you need to define how much you need to alter the pattern, and where it should be altered. I advise you to make a muslin first in order to make this alteration.
Measure the distance between the top of the waistline and the most protruding point of your buttocks (the upper line on the picture), measure along the center back line - in the further text, I'll address this measurement as the rear length.
Also, measure the difference between the hemline length on the front and back (the distance between the two bottom lines) - in the further text I'll address this measurement as the correction length.
We'll alter the back lining pattern first, and then transfer the change to the back skirt panel.
So, measure the rear length reduced by the height of the back waist yoke on the back lining panel, along the CB line. Mark the point on the pattern. Draw a curve parallel to the top edge of the pattern, so that the curve crosses the marked point.
Also, draw a vertical line, parallel to the CB line, ad distanced from it by 2 / 3 of the waistline width. The line should connect the top and bottom edges of the pattern.
Cut the pattern along the curve, cutting in direction from the CB line towards the side seam, stopping few millimeters from the side edge. Also, cut the pattern along the vertical line, cut in direction from the top edge towards the new cut on the pattern. Shift the top CB cutoff up, translating it by the correction length. Fill the gap with a piece of paper. Rotate the top side cutoff in the clockwise direction, until the bottom points of the two cutoff panels meet.
Cut the pattern along the vertical line, by cutting the pattern all the way through the hemline.
Close the top dart by rotating the right side of the pattern in counterclockwise direction. Fill the gap with a piece of paper.
Smoothen the hemline at the filled gap.
Finally, smoothen the side edge of the pattern so that it forms a straight line.
The changes made on the lining pattern should be transferred to the back skirt panel. Due to the pleats, this can be a rather difficult task to do, but the alterations on the lining and a trick I'll show you will make this alteration rather simple.
So, take a rather large piece of paper, much bigger than the back skirt panel (I used a piece of paper with dimensions of 70 cm x 100 cm) and transfer to it the following lines from the original skirt panel:
- L1 - center back line
- L2 - center pleat fold line
- L3 and L4 - fold lines of the second pleat
- L5 and L6 - fold lines of the side pleat
- Transfer the top pattern edge
- Transfer the top lines of the belt loops
When transferring the lines, make sure the pattern's hemline is distanced at least 10 cm from the edge of the paper.
Fold the paper as shown on the picture:
- Fold the paper along the line L2
- Fold the paper so that the lines L3 and L4 meet
- Fold the paper so that the lines L5 and L6 meet
Lay the altered lining pattern over the tissue paper, making sure the top edge of the lining matches the patterns' top edge on the tissue paper. Transfer the lining pattern to the paper.
Once the pattern is copied, unfold the paper - you can already see the shape of the new skirt panel.
Complete the pattern following these guidelines:
- Draw a new hemline (the blue line) - it should be parallel to the lining hemline and distanced 4 cm from it.
- Draw a new border line for the View B (the green line) - it should be parallel to the skirt hemline, and distanced 15.5 cm from it.
- Transfer the dashed pleat fold lines (the dashed blue lines)
And that's it! Your pattern is altered and ready to be sewed.
Zlata Sewalong - the posts
Tomorrow we'll cut the fabric and transfer all the pattern marks to it.
- #1 Fabric recommendations
- #2 Print the pattern
- #3 Fitting alterations - grading the pattern
- #4 Fitting alterations for protruding rear
- #5 Cut the fabric
- #6 Sew the belt loops
- #7 Pleat the skirt
- #8 Sew the pockets
- #9 Assemble the skirt
- #10 Sew an invisible zipper
- #11 Sew a lapped zipper
- #12 Assemble the lining
- #13 Sew the button closure
- #14 Hem the skirt, method 1
- #15 Hem the skirt, method 2
- #16 Hem the skirt, method 3
- #17 Pattern alterations for various styles
How to buy the pattern
Zlata skirt pattern costs $11.98,and it can be bought via my Etsy shop.
I use 2Checkout as a payment collector - it is an equivalent to PayPal - which accepts the following payment methods:
* PayPal via 2checkout (www.2co.com)
* Credit / Debit cards via 2checkout : Visa, Dina Card, Master Card, American Express, Discover
PayPal doesn't support selling option for my country yet, so I use 2Checkout payment collector instead.
When making a purchase order, select "Other" in the payment options. I have to manually issue an invoice for you, via 2Checkout system. The invoice contains a link where you can complete the purchase - it's a page on 2Checkout's website. Once you fill in your billing information, you can chose to pay either by using PayPal account or your credit card. You don't have to register to 2checkout and you won't be charged any additional fees. It's simple, fast and secure. Once the payment is completed, I will enable the pattern download on my Etsy store. I monitor the state of my Etsy store several times a day, and I get instant emails whenever any change is made, so the purchase is usually completed within the same day. Sometimes, due to my daily duties and a time zone differences, it takes more than a day to complete the purchase.
For any additional information about the pattern or the purchase, feel free to email me at: anajan.stepalica [at] gmail [dot] com.
- Zlata skirt Pattern #1401
- Zlata skirt pattern - view A
- Zlata skirt pattern - view B
- Zlata skirt pattern - view C
- Zlata skirt pattern - the lining pattern
- Zlata skirt - testing the pattern, part 1
- Zlata skirt - testing the pattern, part 2
- Zlata skirt - testing the pattern, part 3
- Zlata skirt - testing the pattern, part 4