Mar 6, 2014

Zlata skirt sewalong: #4 Fitting alterations for protruding rear


Zlata skirt sewalong: #4 Fitting alterations for protruding rear


If you have a protruding rear you've probably noticed an issue when wearing skirts or dresses - the buttocks rises the skirt on the back so that the hemline isn't parallel to the ground and looks longer on the front than on the back. Also, the problem can be caused by a specific posture that protrudes your rear.
I know I have this problem with skirts, but so does my friend, who posed in the skirt instead of me. Well, the skirt sits as it should on me, and I wasn't aware of the problem on her until the photo-shoot.
Today I'll show you how to alter the pattern to balance the hemline so that is parallel to the floor.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #4 Fitting alterations for protruding rear

First you need to define how much you need to alter the pattern, and where it should be altered. I advise you to make a muslin first in order to make this alteration.
Measure the distance between the top of the waistline and the most protruding point of your buttocks (the upper line on the picture), measure along the center back line - in the further text, I'll address this measurement as the rear length.
Also, measure the difference between the hemline length on the front and back (the distance between the two bottom lines) - in the further text I'll address this measurement as the correction length.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #4 Fitting alterations for protruding rear

We'll alter the back lining pattern first, and then transfer the change to the back skirt panel.
So, measure the rear length reduced by the height of the back waist yoke on the back lining panel, along the CB line. Mark the point on the pattern. Draw a curve parallel to the top edge of the pattern, so that the curve crosses the marked point.
Also, draw a vertical line, parallel to the CB line, ad distanced from it by 2 / 3 of the waistline width. The line should connect the top and bottom edges of the pattern.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #4 Fitting alterations for protruding rear

Cut the pattern along the curve, cutting in direction from the CB line towards the side seam, stopping few millimeters from the side edge. Also, cut the pattern along the vertical line, cut in direction from the top edge towards the new cut on the pattern. Shift the top CB cutoff up, translating it by the correction length. Fill the gap with a piece of paper. Rotate the top side cutoff in the clockwise direction, until the bottom points of the two cutoff panels meet. 

Zlata skirt sewalong: #4 Fitting alterations for protruding rear

Cut the pattern along the vertical line, by cutting the pattern all the way through the hemline.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #4 Fitting alterations for protruding rear

Close the top dart by rotating the right side of the pattern in counterclockwise direction. Fill the gap with a piece of paper.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #4 Fitting alterations for protruding rear

Zlata skirt sewalong: #4 Fitting alterations for protruding rear

Smoothen the hemline at the filled gap.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #4 Fitting alterations for protruding rear

Finally, smoothen the side edge of the pattern so that it forms a straight line.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #4 Fitting alterations for protruding rear

The changes made on the lining pattern should be transferred to the back skirt panel. Due to the pleats, this can be a rather difficult task to do, but the alterations on the lining and a trick I'll show you will make this alteration rather simple.

So, take a rather large piece of paper, much bigger than the back skirt panel (I used a piece of paper with dimensions of 70 cm x 100 cm) and transfer to it the following lines from the original skirt panel:
  • L1 - center back line
  • L2 - center pleat fold line 
  • L3 and L4 - fold lines of the second pleat
  • L5 and L6 - fold lines of the side pleat
  • Transfer the top pattern edge
  • Transfer the top lines of the belt loops 
Zlata skirt sewalong: #4 Fitting alterations for protruding rear


When transferring the lines, make sure the pattern's hemline is distanced at least 10 cm from the edge of the paper.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #4 Fitting alterations for protruding rear

Fold the paper as shown on the picture:
  • Fold the paper along the line L2
  • Fold the paper so that the lines L3 and L4 meet
  • Fold the paper so that the lines L5 and L6 meet

Zlata skirt sewalong: #4 Fitting alterations for protruding rear

Lay the altered lining pattern over the tissue paper, making sure the top edge of the lining matches the patterns' top edge on the tissue paper. Transfer the lining pattern to the paper.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #4 Fitting alterations for protruding rear

Once the pattern is copied, unfold the paper - you can already see the shape of the new skirt panel.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #4 Fitting alterations for protruding rear

Complete the pattern following these guidelines:
  • Draw a new hemline (the blue line) - it should be parallel to the lining hemline and distanced 4 cm from it.
  • Draw a new border line for the View B (the green line) - it should be parallel to the skirt hemline, and distanced 15.5 cm from it.
  • Transfer the dashed pleat fold lines (the dashed blue lines)

Zlata skirt sewalong: #4 Fitting alterations for protruding rear

And that's it! Your pattern is altered and ready to be sewed.


Zlata Sewalong - the posts

Tomorrow we'll cut the fabric and transfer all the pattern marks to it.

Stay tuned!

How to buy the pattern


Stepalica: Zlata skirt pattern
Zlata skirt pattern costs $11.98,and it can be bought via my Etsy shop
I use 2Checkout as a payment collector - it is an equivalent to PayPal - which accepts the following payment methods:

* PayPal via 2checkout (www.2co.com)
* Credit / Debit cards via 2checkout : Visa, Dina Card, Master Card, American Express, Discover

PayPal doesn't support selling option for my country yet, so I use 2Checkout payment collector instead.







When making a purchase order, select "Other" in the payment options. I have to manually issue an invoice for you, via 2Checkout system. The invoice contains a link where you can complete the purchase - it's a page on 2Checkout's website. Once you fill in your billing information, you can chose to pay either by using PayPal account or your credit card. You don't have to register to 2checkout and you won't be charged any additional fees. It's simple, fast and secure. Once the payment is completed, I will enable the pattern download on my Etsy store. I monitor the state of my Etsy store several times a day, and I get instant emails whenever any change is made, so the purchase is usually completed within the same day. Sometimes, due to my daily duties and a time zone differences, it takes more than a day to complete the purchase.

For any additional information about the pattern or the purchase, feel free to email me at: anajan.stepalica [at] gmail [dot] com


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