Mar 20, 2014

Zlata skirt sewalong: #14 Hem the skirt, method 1

Zlata skirt sewalong: #14 Hem the skirt, method 1

The skirt is almost finished! We should hem it now, and as I promised, I'll show you three different techniques you can use depending on the type of fabric you used to make the skirt.

The first method I'll show you is appropriate for thin and lightweight fabrics like lining, viscose, cotton, linen. Also, it's appropriate for those skits that can show off some topstitching on the right side of the fabric. I used this method for hemming lining on all three skirts, and I used it for hemming the skirt B.

Circle and half circle skirts and skirts with curved hemline in general can be tricky since the fabric slips and doesn't fold evenly on curves. There's a simple solution to the problem though. I'll show you the technique on the lining, and you can use it on the skirt as well.

Make a stitch around the skirt's hemline, by stitching approximately 0.5 cm away from the bottom edge. The stitch will stabilize the fabric and it will provide a guide for the fabric folds.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #14 Hem the skirt, method 1

Fold the fabric with wrong sides together along the stitched line and press it.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #14 Hem the skirt, method 1

Fold the fabric once again towards the wrong side of it. This time, the amount of fold should be equal to the width of the hem your skirt should have. Press the edge.
When working with lining, I always fold it by 0.5 cm, since it does not require a wide hemline. When I was hemming the skirt, I folded the fabric by 2 - 2.5 cm. When using this technique, don't make too wide folds at the hemline because the bottom edge is always longer than the top one, and there's always an excess of fabric you've got to deal with. The narrower the fold is, the easier it will be for you to spread the excess fabric equally so that it doesn't show off.
I didn't use pins on the lining, but I did pin the hemline when I worked on the skirt. I placed them perpendicular to the hem line and pinned on every 5 cm. The pins kept the fabric in place and helped spread the excess fabric evenly along the hemline.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #14 Hem the skirt, method 1

Sew the hemline by stitching as close as possible to the top fold. Press the hemline once again.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #14 Hem the skirt, method 1

Zlata skirt sewalong: #14 Hem the skirt, method 1

While pressing the hemline the pleats must have lost their shape, so press them back in place.

Zlata skirt sewalong: #14 Hem the skirt, method 1

Zlata Sewalong - the posts

Tomorrow we'll cover another hemming technique, suitable for most of the fabrics that can show of some topstitching, like cotton, linen, denim, corduroy, twill etc.

Stay tuned!

How to buy the pattern

Stepalica: Zlata skirt pattern
Zlata skirt pattern costs $11.98,and it can be bought via my Etsy shop
I use 2Checkout as a payment collector - it is an equivalent to PayPal - which accepts the following payment methods:

* PayPal via 2checkout (
* Credit / Debit cards via 2checkout : Visa, Dina Card, Master Card, American Express, Discover

PayPal doesn't support selling option for my country yet, so I use 2Checkout payment collector instead.

When making a purchase order, select "Other" in the payment options. I have to manually issue an invoice for you, via 2Checkout system. The invoice contains a link where you can complete the purchase - it's a page on 2Checkout's website. Once you fill in your billing information, you can chose to pay either by using PayPal account or your credit card. You don't have to register to 2checkout and you won't be charged any additional fees. It's simple, fast and secure. Once the payment is completed, I will enable the pattern download on my Etsy store. I monitor the state of my Etsy store several times a day, and I get instant emails whenever any change is made, so the purchase is usually completed within the same day. Sometimes, due to my daily duties and a time zone differences, it takes more than a day to complete the purchase.

For any additional information about the pattern or the purchase, feel free to email me at: anajan.stepalica [at] gmail [dot] com

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