Štepalica: Mar 21, 2014

Mar 21, 2014

Zlata skirt sewalong: #15 Hem the skirt, method 2

* KLIKNITE za tekst na srpskom

The second method for hemming a skirt can be applied to both circle and pencil skirts. This technique is appropriate for medium to thick fabrics that can show off some topstitching at the hemline on the right side, like linen, cotton, denim, corduroy, twill and similar.

Since I didn't manage to snap some photos of the process while making the skirt, I will show you the technique on fabric remnants.

You will need a narrow band for this - it can be a satin band, or a bias band, lace, twill, etc. The band will cover the raw edge of the fabric and make the hemline really neat and pretty. If you're hemming a circle skirt, I advise you to use a band with 1 - 1.5 cm width, especially if it's not stretchy at all. If you're using a bias band it can be slightly wider, since it can mold to the curved line quite well.

Lay the band with right side down to a working surface. Place the skirt over it, also with right side down. Pin the band to the skirt, making sure the skirt is slightly shifted down compared to the band, as shown on the picture.

Flip the fabric so that the right side is faced up. Repin again, by moving pins one by one from the wrong side to the right side of the fabric. Make sure not to shift the band nor the skirt while repinning. Replacing the pins will enable easier sewing, since you'll stitch with the right side of the fabric up.

Sew the band to the skirt. Ideally, you should stitch right next to the edge of the band, but this is not mandatory - what matters is that the stitch goes through both layers of fabric.

Fold the fabric up with wrong sides together, with the amount of fold being equal to the width of the hemline you'd like to have. The same stands here as for the previously described method - the hemline should be 2 - 2.5 cm wide for circle skirts. Press the fold line. You can pin the fold in place, by positioning the pins to be perpendicular to the hemline - this will stabilize the fabric and spread the excess fabric evenly along the hemline.

Sew the hemline in place, by stitching next to the top edge of the band. Again - you don't have to sew at the very edge of the band, but sewing this way will make your hemline really neat and pretty.

Here's how the hemline looks on the skirt. You can see the stitching lines were not places next to the edges of the satin band, and the hemline isn't as neat as the one on the pics above.

If you want to topstitch the pleat folds to keep their shape, now is the tome to do so. Try to sew at the fold of the fabric. Edgestitch all inner and outer folds of the pleats. You'll have a lot of work to do here, since there are 40 pleat folds on the skirt, but it's worth the effort as this will make the skirt much easier to maintain and press, especially after it's being washed.

Zlata Sewalong - the posts

I'll show you on Monday the third method for hemming the skirt. This technique is appropriate for medium to heavy weight fabrics like suiting, tweed, boucle, and all other fabrics that you don't want to show off the topstitching.

Stay tuned!

How to buy the pattern

Zlata skirt pattern costs $11.98,and it can be bought via my Etsy shop.
I use 2Checkout as a payment collector - it is an equivalent to PayPal - which accepts the following payment methods:

* PayPal via 2checkout (www.2co.com)
* Credit / Debit cards via 2checkout : Visa, Dina Card, Master Card, American Express, Discover

PayPal doesn't support selling option for my country yet, so I use 2Checkout payment collector instead.

When making a purchase order, select "Other" in the payment options. I have to manually issue an invoice for you, via 2Checkout system. The invoice contains a link where you can complete the purchase - it's a page on 2Checkout's website. Once you fill in your billing information, you can chose to pay either by using PayPal account or your credit card. You don't have to register to 2checkout and you won't be charged any additional fees. It's simple, fast and secure. Once the payment is completed, I will enable the pattern download on my Etsy store. I monitor the state of my Etsy store several times a day, and I get instant emails whenever any change is made, so the purchase is usually completed within the same day. Sometimes, due to my daily duties and a time zone differences, it takes more than a day to complete the purchase.

For any additional information about the pattern or the purchase, feel free to email me at: anajan.stepalica [at] gmail [dot] com.

Šivenje Zlata suknje: #15 porubljivanje suknje, metod 2

* CLICK to read the text in English

Drugi način porubljivanja suknje se može primeniti na suknjama sa kružnon ili ravnom linijom poruba. Ova tehnika je pogodna za srednje debele i debele materijale na kojima nije ružno da se vidi štep na licu tkanine, poput pamuka, lana, teksasa, somota, kepera i sličnih.

Pošto nisam uspela da uslikam lepe fotografije dok sam radila na samoj suknji, pokazaću vam tehniku na ostacima materijala.

Za ovu tehniku potrebna vam je uža ukrasna traka - to može biti satenska traka, ili paspul traka, čipka, keper traka i slično. Traka će poslužiti da sakrije samu ivicu materijala duž poruba. Ukoliko porubljujete suknju sa kružnom linijom poruba, savetujem da traka, ukoliko nije rastegljiva, bude uska, širine 1 - 1.5 cm. Ukoliko radite sa kosom paspul trakom, možete koristiti i širu traku, pošto je ona prilično rastegljiva i lako se oblikuje duž krivih oblika.

Postavite traku na radnu površinu, licem prema nadole. Preko nje stavite suknju, opet licem nadole. Uhvatite špenadlama traku za suknju, tako da je ivica materijala pomerena u odnosu na gornju ivicu trake, kao što je prikazano na slici.

Okrenite materijal suknje na lice. Polako, jednu po jednu špenadlu pomerajte sa naličja na lice materijala, vodeći računa da ne pomerite traku u odnosu na suknju. Ovo će vam olakšati šivenje, budući da ćete štepati s lica materijala.

Prišijte traku za suknju. Idealno bi bilo da štepate tik uz ivicu trake, ali to nije obavezno - bitno je da štepanjem obuhvatite oba sloja materijala.

Presavijte donju ivicu suknje naličjem prema naličju, određujući željenu širinu poruba pri tom. Kao i kod prethodne tehnike, moja preporuka je da ne pravite preširok porub, širina neka bude 2 - 2.5 cm. Prepeglajte ivicu pregiba. Slobodno pričvrstite slojeve špenadlama, postavljajući ih normalno u odnosu na porub. Time ćete osigurati materijal od bežanja, a višak materijala duž pregiba rasporediti ravnomerno.

Proštepajte još jednom slojeve, ovaj put šijući duž gornje ivice trake. Opet, ne morate šiti tik uz ivicu, ali je lepše ako to uspete da izvedete.

Evo kako izgleda porub na suknji - ujedno možete da vidite da ja nisam prišivala traku tik uz njenu ivicu, i da ne izgleda tako uredno kao na slikama iznad.

Ako želite da proštepate pregibe falti kako biste ih zadržali na mestu, sada je momenat da to uradite. Trudite se da štepate uz samu ivicu pregiba, a proštepajte i spoljne i unutrašnje pregibe falti. Imaćete dosta posla jer ima ukupno 40 pregiba, ali će suknja nakon toga biti mnogo lakša za održavanje i peglanje, posebno nakon pranja.

Šivenje Zlata suknje - članci

U ponedeljak ću demonstrirati još jednu tehniku za porub, koja je pogodna za srednje debele i debele materijale, za štofove, tvid i bukle tkanja i za suknje na kojima ne želite da se vidi štep linija na licu tkanine.

Pratite dalje postove!

Kupovina kroja

Zlata kroj za suknju košta $11.98, ali kupci iz Srbije ovaj šnit mogu kupiti za upola manje novca, tj. za 500 RSD.

Kroj se može kupiti u dolarskoj valuti preko moje onlajn prodavnice na Etsy sajtu, ili uplatom novca u dinarskoj valuti na moj žiro račun.

Napominjem da dinarske cene ne važe ukoliko kupujete preko Etsy prodavnice.

Za sve dodatne informacije o kupovini, molim vas šaljite mi email na adresu: anajan.stepalica [at] gmail [dot] com.

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