Feb 5, 2013

Novi kaputić na pomolu / A new coat, work in progress

Htela sam da vam pokažem na čemu radim trenutno. U pitanju je kaputić / mantil koji je manje - više kopija kaputa koji sam pre par godina videla u jednoj prodavnici. Oduševila sam se modelom, ali ne i cenom, tada, i od onda planiram da sašijem svoju verziju. Kaput je vrlo zanimljivog kroja, koji krasi velika asimetrična kragna. Skircirala sam ga kod kuće, po sećanju, da ne bih zaboravila detalje. Crtež nije idealan, skica u sredini ima očigledan problem, jer leva i desna strana nikako ne mogu biti simetrične, no dobro.

I wanted to show you what I'm working on at the moment. It's a coat / trench which I more or less copied from a coat I saw in a store a few years ago. I loved the shape of it, but didn't like the price, and ever since I've been thinking of making my own version of it. The coat has a very interesting seaming, and is adorned by a big asymmetrical collar. I made a sketch of it at home, drawing all the details I could remember. The drawing isn't ideal, the sketch in the middle has an obvious problem, since the left and right sides can not be symmetrical, but I don't care much about it.


Originalna ideja je bila da napravim zimski kaput, od divne kobaltno plave vune koje imam. Međutim, biću krajnje iskrena, od kako sam shvatila da sve vreme forsiram pogrešne boje u garderobi, zaključila sam da kobaltno pava nije dobra ideja. Žuto - maslinastu kombinaciju sam sasvim slučajno izabrala, kao i mnoge kombinacije u poslednje vreme: materijali su se našli jedan pored drugog, i meni se upalila lampica. Inače, žuti materijal sam dobila od prijateljice pre par godina, i odložila ga sa strane, za neki test kroj, jer mi se boja nije dopala. Sada, što ga više gledam, sve više mi se sviđa. Žuti materijal je fin pamučni keper, dok je maslinasti pamuk sa elastinom. Otprilike su iste debljine i čvrstine, što je veoma zgodno. Ipak, sve delove sam ojačala lepljivim platnom srednje debljine, jer sam želela da kaputić lepo drži formu. Gornju kragnu sam učvrstila sa dva sloja flizelina.
Evo kako izgleda kaputić. Rukavi i kragna su pričvršćeni špenadlama, a džepovi još uvek nisu prišiveni, samo je paspuliran otvor džepa, ali već vidim da će super izgledati. 

The initial idea was to make a winter coat, using a gorgeous cobalt blue wool I have. However, I'll be quite honest, once I realized I've been using wrong colors for clothing, I figured the cobalt blue wasn't the best idea. The yellow - olive combo came to me spontaneously, as many other combinations I've been choosing recently: the fabrics stood next to each other and I had an AHA moment. Just so you know, the yellow fabric was a gift from a friend, that I put aside to use for testing patterns, as I didn't like the color. Now, the more I look at it, the more I like it. It's a nice cotton twill, and the olive fabric is a cotton with some elastin in it. The two have approximately same thickness and sturdiness, which was really convenient. However, I fused all the pieces with a medium weight interfacing, since I wanted a coat that has a shape. The top collar was fused with two layers of interfacing.
And here's how it looks. Sleeves and collar are just pinned to the body, and the pockets aren't sewed yet, I've only done the welt part of them, but I can see it will look great when finished.


Kao osnov za kaput koristila sam kroj Burde 10/2005, #116. Ovaj model sam već koristila za dva kaputa: S kaput i roze kaput sa velikom kragnom, tako da je već isproban, svi problemi na njemu su korigovani i znam da mi dobro stoji. Kako je to zgodno! Ovaj put sam najviše posla imala oko kragne i prednjeg dela, koji su asimetrični, ali sam uživala u procesu. Nadam se da ću uskoro završiti rad, i pokazati vam kako izgleda na meni.

I used the BWOF 10/2005, #116 coat pattern as a base. I've used this pattern already for two coats: the S coat and the pink coat with an oversized collar, which means it's been tried and trued, and I know it fits me nice. How convenient! This time I had to draft a collar and to work on the front panels, because these parts were asymmetrical, but I enjoyed the process. I hope I'll finish working on this coat soon, and show you how it looks one me.