Pre neki dan me mama zamolila da joj pomognem oko prepravke jednog sportskog kaputaića. Kaput pripada njenoj prijateljici, pa je mama htela da joj pomogne oko prepravke, ali je ubrzo shvatila da ne zna kako bi izvela ono što je prijateljica tražila od nje. Moja mama pomalo šije, do sada je napravila podosta posteljine, zavesa, i čak je šila nešto od svoje garderobe, ali ne bavi se time često, tako da nema rutinu koju ja imam, i nije baš vešta kao ja. Iako nerado šijem za druge, ovaj kaput sam doživela kao lični izazov i pristala da pomognem mami i njenoj prijateljici. Prepravka je bila izuzetno zanimljiva (tome je umnogome doprinela činjenica da nisam morala ništa da param na postojećem kaputu).
Dakle, u pitanju je sportski kaputić od debele pamučne trikotaže. Mamina prijateljica je smatrala da je kaput prilično dosadan ovakav kakav je, i imala je ideju kako da ga učini zanimljivijim. Kupila je bukle sa krupnom pepito šarom u teget - žutoj kombinaciji boja. Teget boja kaputa savršeno se uklopila sa nijansom teget šara na bukleu. Htela je da se na kaput našije materijal i to tako da pokrije leđa, centralni deo desne prednjice, kao i džep na desnoj strani. Evo kako je izgledao pre moje intervencije.
A few days ago my mom asked me to help her refashion a sportish coat. It's her friend's coat, and mom wanted to help her with the refashion, but she soon realized she didn't know how to execute what the friend asked for. You see, my mom sews from time to time. So far she has sewn a lot of bed sheets, curtains and even made some of her wardrobe, but she doesn't sew often, hence has no routine like I do, and is not skillful as I am. I don't like sewing for others, but this coat seemed like a nice challenge to me, so I decided to help both my mom and her friend. The refashioning turned to be really interesting (the fact that I didn't have to rip of a single seam helped a lot).
The coat is a sportish one, made of thick jersey. Mom's friend thought it was rather dull the way it looked, and had an idea how to make it more interesting. She bought a boucle with large houndstooth pattern in navy - yellow tones. The color of the coat matched perfectly with the navy threads of the boucle. Mom's friend wanted to apply the fabric to the back of the coat, to center front right side and to the left pocket. Here's how the coat looked before I interfered.
Dakle, u pitanju je sportski kaputić od debele pamučne trikotaže. Mamina prijateljica je smatrala da je kaput prilično dosadan ovakav kakav je, i imala je ideju kako da ga učini zanimljivijim. Kupila je bukle sa krupnom pepito šarom u teget - žutoj kombinaciji boja. Teget boja kaputa savršeno se uklopila sa nijansom teget šara na bukleu. Htela je da se na kaput našije materijal i to tako da pokrije leđa, centralni deo desne prednjice, kao i džep na desnoj strani. Evo kako je izgledao pre moje intervencije.
The coat is a sportish one, made of thick jersey. Mom's friend thought it was rather dull the way it looked, and had an idea how to make it more interesting. She bought a boucle with large houndstooth pattern in navy - yellow tones. The color of the coat matched perfectly with the navy threads of the boucle. Mom's friend wanted to apply the fabric to the back of the coat, to center front right side and to the left pocket. Here's how the coat looked before I interfered.
Rad sam počela od zadnje strane. Ufircala sam poveći komad buklea, pravougaonog oblika, za kaput uzdužnim krupnim šavovima. Zatim sam platno prišila za kaput mašinom, vodeći računa da štepam prateći pepito šaru u teget boji, kako bi štep bio što manje vidljiv (na slici ispod sam crvenom linijom istakla šav, na desnoj strani slike se vidi unutrašnjost kaputa). Napravila sam otprilike pet paralelnih uzdužnih linija štepova, čime sam postigla da se bukle ne odvaja od leđa kaputića po njegovoj širini.
I started from the back. I hand basted a large rectangle of the fabric to the back of the coat, using lagre stitches. Then I machine stitched the fabric to the coat, making sure the stitches followed the navy part of the fabric pattern, thus making the stitch less visible (I marked the stitch line in red on the image bellow, on the right side you can see the inside of the coat). I made around five parallel vertical stitch lines, which fixed the fabric to he coat's back.
Kada je platno pričvršćeno za kaput, iskrojila sam bukle prateći konture kroja kaputa, ostavljajući poveće dodatke za šavove. Dodatke sam podvila na unutra a zatim prišila tkaninu za kaput koristeći cik cak bod. Bukle sam sekla deo po deo, jer se tkanina užasno para, a na ćoškovima sam morala da skraćujem dodatke za šavove, kako bih smanjila zadebljanje platna. Na nekim delovima je tkanina bila toliko debela, da sam jedva uspela da je podvučem pod papučicu.
Once the fabric was fixed to the coat, I cut it following the coat seams, and leaving wide SAs. I folded the SAs inwards and machine stitched the fabric to the coat, using a zick zack stitch. I cut the boucle in small portions, since it frayed a lot, and I had to trim off the fabric at corner points, to reduce bulk. The fabric was so thick at some parts, I barely managed to put it under the presser foot.
Koristeći isti proces, prišila sam platno na prednji deo kaputa. Oko postojećih rupica za dugmad sam iskrojila pravougaone rupe, tako da se kaput zakopčava uz pomoć starih rupica za dugmad. Pošto je vlasnica kaputa zamislila da spreda kaput bude asimetričan, činilo mi se da bi ovakve rupice za dugmad dobro izgledale na njemu.
Repeating the process I sewed the fabric to the front. I cut off rectangular wholes from the boucle, thus allowing existing buttonholes to button up the coat. Since the coat's owner wanted an asymmetrical coat, I thought these kind of button holes would look nice on it.
Kada sam odradila na kaputu sve što je od mene traženo, mislila sam da bi još par manjih detalja učinilo da kaput izgleda skladno, pa sam dodala pepito platno na levi rever, i dodala sam zakrpe na laktove rukava. Ovi detalji su rukom prišiveni.
Once I made all the changes I was asked to make I thought a few more details would make the coat prettier, so I added the houndstooh fabric to the left lapel, and I added sleeve patches. I hand sewed these details.
Sve u svemu, mislim da sada kaputić zaista sjajno izgleda, mada ovo nije moj stil oblačenja. Još bitnije, vlasnica kaputa je jako zadovoljna krajnjim rezultatom.
Even though the coat doesn't suit my style, I think it looks great now. But, what's more important, its owner is very satisfied with the result.
