"S" kaput, deo 4 / The "S" coat, part 4

Nastavljam sa izmenama kroja, treba da iskrojim džep. Na donjem prednjem delu korja sam iscrtala oblik džepa, 15cm dubok, i oko 13cm širok. Malo sam zakrivila ćošak džepa. Zatim sam iscrtani oblik precrtala na novi list papira i iskrojila ga. Ovaj deo će biti gornji džep.

I'm continuing with pattern alterations, I should draft a pocket pattern. I drew a pocket shape on the front bottom piece. The pocket is 15cm deep, and around 13cm wide. Also, I curved a bit the corner of the pocket. Then I copied the pocket shape on a new piece of paper. This piece will be a top of the pocket.

Isti oblik sam precrtala još jednom na novi list papira i vrh džepa sam zalepila za dno gornjeg prednjeg panela kaputa. Dodati deo će biti donji džep.

I copied the same shape on another piece of paper and I glued the top of the pocket piece to the bottom of the front top pattern piece. The added piece will serve as a lower pocket.

Ideja je da rukavi kaputa imaju manžetne, koje će biti paspulirane keder trakom. Međutim, neću praviti prave manžetne, već ću samo preseći rukave na dva dela, umetnuti keder traku, i prišiti delove zajedno. Na gornjem i donjem delu rukava sam iscrtala linije paralelne sa linijom poruba, udaljene 15cm od nje.

Ove krojne delove ću koristiti i za kroj kaputa i za kroj postave. Kada budem sekla materijal za kaput, rukave ću seći iz dva dela, dok cu postavu seći iz jednog dela.

Za postavu i opšivke ću koristiti početni, princes, kroj kaputa. Kada sam šila Šanel kaput, napravila sam kroj za rusku kragnu, koji i sada planiram da upotrebim.

Večeras idem na put, na kome ću biti narendih nedelju dana. Nastaviću da pišem o kaputu kada se vratim.

I want to have sleeve cuffs on the coat, that would be accentuated with piping. However, I will not make actual sleeve cuffs; instead I'll cut the sleeves in two pieces, apply the piping cord and join the sleeve pieces back together. I drew horizontal lines on the top and bottom sleeve patterns, distanced 15cm from the sleeve hemline and parallel to the hemline.

I'll use the same sleeve pattern pieces for both the shell fabric and the lining. When cutting the fashion fabric, I'll cut the sleeves in two pieces, and keep the sleeves as one piece when cutting the lining.

I'll use the basic shoulder princess seamed pattern for the coat lining and for the facings. I have already drafted the collar pattern when I made the Faux Chanel coat, and I intend to use the same collar pattern this time.

I'm going on a trip tonight, and I'll be back in a week. I'll continue writing about the coat when I come back.

Pitanje za čitaoce / A question for the readers

Kada sam pokrenula blog, odlučila sam da bude dvojezičan kako bih omogućila što većem broju ljudi da ga prati bez problema. Međutim, par puta sam se zapitala da li je način na koji pišem jasan i pregledan. Zato bih volela da čujem vaše mišljenje:

1. Da li da nastavim da pišem članke na način koji sam do sad koristila - da pišem jedan pasus na srpskom, pa na engleskom, sa slikom koja ilustruje tekst,
2. Da li da ispišem sve na jednom jeziku, pa zatim na drugom, duplirajući slike
3. Ili da postavljam duplirane postove, jedan na srpskom, drugi na engleskom, i time maksimalno pojednostavim korišćenje bloga?

Lin3aRosa mi je ostavila komentar koji me dodatno naveo da razmislim - nju je zbunio naziv postova koje sam pisala ovih dana, jer KAPUTT na nemačkom znači SLOMLJEN na srpskom, a reč liči na srpsku reč KAPUT.

When I started this blog, I decided to keep it bilingual in order to make it understandable to as many people as possible. However, I asked myself several times whether my writing was concise and clear. So I'd like to hear your opinion on the subject:

1. Should I keep writing the way I did so far - writing each paragraph first in one language than in the other, with one photo that illustrates the step,
2. Should I write everything in one language first, than translate it to other, posting doubled pictures,
3. Should I post separate posts in Serbian and English, would it make the blog more user friendly?

Lin3aRosa left a comment that made me think about this issue further more. I'm quoting: 

"Theses posts are really interesting. However, everytime I see the title in my reader I startled because "kaput" is like 'kaputt' in German, which means 'broken'. So I ask myself "oh what's broken, what happened?". And then I remember it means "coat" to you :)"

"S" kaput, deo 3 / The "S" coat, part 3

Zadnji delovi se menjaju na potpuno isti način kao i prednji. Stoga, neću opisivati detaljno sve korake, ali evo par slika koje ilustruju proces.
Prvo sam uporedila zadnji bočni deo sa bočnim prednjim delom, i obeležila na bočnoj ivici zadnjeg dela tačku kroz koju mora da prođe "S" kriva.

The back pattern pieces are altered in a same way as the front pieces. Therefore, I will not describe each step in detail, but I'll illustrate the process with few photos.
First, I compared the back side panel to the front side panel, and marked a point on the back panel where the "S" curve should go through. 

Zatim sam ponovila poznat postupak: iscrtala horizontalnu liniju na bočnom delu i zakrivila je prema unutrašnjoj ivici kroja.

Then I repeated the described alteration process: I drew a horizontal line on the side panel and curved it towards the medial side of the panel.

Spojila sam donje delove duž unutrašnjih ivica, tako da su linije poruba poravnate.

I fixed the back pieces together along their medial sides, making the hemline one continuous line.

I presekla bočni deo duž iscrtane krive. Ovaj put sam imala sreće - bočni i zadnji deo ne formiraju vertikalnu brusnu, tako da nema potrebe da dodatnim izmenama bočnog panela.
Spojila sam gornje delove tako da je ramena linija poravnata.

I cut the side panel along the drawn curve. I was lucky this time - the side and the center panels didn't form a vertical dart, so there was no need for additional pattern corrections.
I joined the top pieces of the pattern, forming a continuous shoulder line.

Iscrtala sam horizontalnu liniju na centralnom delu i zakrivila je prema unutrašnjoj ivici kroja.

I drew a horizontal line on the central panel and curved it towards the medial side of the panel.

Presekla sam centralni deo duž iscrtane linije. Pošto su krojni delovi formirali prilično široku brusnu, morala sam da korigujem centralni panel na dva mesta, koristeći ranije opisan postupak. Dakle, imala sam dve horizontalne korekcione brusne na gornjem zadnjem delu. Liniju krive sam pomerila uvis za oko 2.5cm, koliko je iznosio zbir širina dve pomenute horizontalne brusne.

I cut the central panel along the drawn curve. Since the pattern pieces formed a rather wide vertical dart, I had to alter the central panel on two places, using the previously described process. Hence I ended up with two horizontal correctional darts on the top back piece. I altered the curve by shifting up one side by approximately 2.5cm - a cumulative width of the two horizontal darts.

Evo kako zadnji krojni delovi izgledaju nakon mojih intervencija.

Here's how the back pieces look after my alterations.

U sledećem postu ću opisati kako sam napravila kroj za džepove i kako sam izmenila rukave.

In the next post I'll describe how I drafted pockets and the alterations I made on sleeves.