Do sada smo sastavili haljinu i prišili rajsferšlus na Nugat haljini. Sada je vreme da počnemo da radimo na postavi.
Ako šijete varijaciju C haljine, danas ćete i vi početi da šijete. Pošto su krojni delovi za haljinu i postavu identični, korake koje u ovom postu opišem ćete primeniti na oba sloja.
Setite se da smo, kada smo krojili delove za haljinu, kroj postavljali na lice materijala. Sa delovima za postavu je suprotno, tj. kroj treba da postavljate na naličje materijala, kako biste dobili postavu koja je nalik na odraz u ogledalu vaše haljine.
Ovaj post neće biti previše detaljan, budući da je većina postupka šivenja postave veoma slična (ako ne i ista) onom koji smo primenili kada smo sastavljali haljinu. Opisaću osnovne korake i dati napomene za one korake koji se razlikuju od opisanih.
We have assembled the dress and sewed in a zipper on the Nougat dress so far. Now it's time to start working on the lining.
If you're making view C of the dress, you'll start sewing today. Since the pattern for the shell and lining are identical, you will use the same process I'll describe here for both layers.
Remember that we laid the pattern pieces on the right side of fabric when we cut the shell. Well, we'll do the opposite with the lining and lay the pattern pieces on the wrong side of the fabric in order to get a lining that is a mirror image of the shell.
This post won't be a very detailed one, since most of the steps I described when assembling the dress can be applied to the lining. I will describe basic steps and point out those that differ from the ones I have already described.
Iskrojte krojne delove za postavu / Cut the lining pieces
Iskrojte krojne delove za postavu. Prednji i zadnji gornji delovi imaju brusne koje je potrebno obeležiti na tkanini. Kao i kod ostatka kroja, ni ovde nisam koristila kredu za obeležavanje kroja.
Cut the lining. Bodice panels have darts that need to be marked on the fabric. Like on the rest of the pattern, I haven't used tailor's chalk either for transferring the pattern.
Umesto krede, mnogo bolji način obeležavanja brusne je takozvanim labavim fircom, koji izgleda kao na slici. Labavi firc je bod koji se šije kroz oba sloja materijala. Umesto da zatežete konac, potrebno je da ostavite podužu petlju izmeđju svaka dva boda.
Instead of using chalk, I used a much better way of marking - tailor tacks, which looks like shown on the picture below. It's sewn through both layers of fabric. While hand basting you need to loosen the thread and leave a loops in the stitch.
Kada ste obeležili brusnu, sklonite papirni kroj i pažljivo povucite slojeve tkanine u suprotnim smerovima, kako bi se konac zategao na površini svakog od slojeva.
Once you have marked the dart, remove the paper pattern and pull carefully layers of the fabric in opposite directions, until the thread is tightened on their surfaces.
Prosecite konce između slojeva i razdovjte slojeve. Dobili ste precizno obeležene brusne.
Cut the peaking threads and separate the layers. You've got some precisely marked darts.
Ponovite postupak i na prednjem panelu.
Repeat the process on the front panel.
Sašijte prednji gornji panel / Sew the front bodice
Brusne na prednjem delu šijte jednu po jednu. Presavijte po dužini brusnu na pola i pričvrstite slojeve špenadlama.
Sew darts on the front bodice one by one. Fold the dart in half along its length and pin the layers in place.
Prošijte brusnu, otsecite višak materijala, ostavljajući dodatke za šavove širine oko 0.5 cm. Izendlajte ivice i uklonite firc.
Sew the dart, cut off the extra fabric leaving 0.5 cm (1/3") wide SAs. Serge the raw edges and remove the basting thread.
Ponovite opisani postupak i sa drugom brusnom.
Repeat the process on the other dart.
Završite gornji panel kratkim šavom od spoja dveju brusni do linije struka.
Finish the front bodice by sewing a short seam from the darts' joining point to the waist line.
Raspeglajte brusne i šavove.
Press the darts and seams.
Sastavite ostatak postave / Assemble the lining
Prošijte brusne na zadnjim gornjim panelima i prepeglajte ih. Sastavite zadnje panele duž centralnog zadnjeg šava. Izendlajte ivice i raspeglajte šavove.
Sew the darts on back bodice and press them. Sew the back panels together, by stitching along the center back seam. Serge the raw edges and press the seams.
Sastavite suknju - prišijte pojas za suknju. Izendlajte ivice i raspeglajte šavove.
Assemble the skirt - join the waist yoke and skirt panels. Serge the raw edges together and press the seams.
Sastavite prednju i zadnju stranu haljine.
Assemble the back and front dress panels.
Sastavite prednju i zadnju stranu haljine. Poravnajte delove u liniji struka, a zatim i ostatak bočnog šava. Desni šav prošijte od pazuha do poruba suknje.
Sew the back dress panel to the front. Align the waist line seams on front and back, and then align the rest of the seam's length. Sew the right side seam from the armhole down to the hemline.
Levi bočni šav prošijte od linije kuka do poruba suknje. Izendlajte ivice duž svih šavova i raspeglajte šavove.
Sew the left side seam from the hip line to the hemline. Serge all the raw edges and press the seams.
Na žalost, zaboravila sam da uslikam sašivenu postavu. Primetite da sam ostavila nesašivene ramene šavove i na haljini i na postavi. Sada ste spremni da spojite postavu sa haljinom, a to ćemo raditi u narednom članku.
Unfortunately, I forgot to snap some photos of the finished lining. Note that I left the shoulder seams un-sewed on both the shell and the lining. Now you're ready to attach the lining to the shell. We'll do that in the next post.
Prethodni postovi o Nugat haljini / Previous articles about the Nougat dress:
http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2013/08/nougat-dress-1301-sewalong-assemble.html
