Pre neki dan sam od jedne čitateljke dobila email sledeće sadržine:
Početnik sam u šivenju i trenutno pokušavam da nađem svoju veličinu za šnitove iz Burde. Nije mi jasna njihova tabela jer za svaku meru pojedinačno stoji drugi konfekciski broj....moj broj je inače 42 ali ne znam da li je to isto i po Burdi. Kako da se snađem?
A few days ago I got an email from a reader, with the following content:
I am a beginner at sewing and I'm trying to find my size for Burda Style patterns. I don't get their size chart, since each of my measurements corresponds to different size... I'm normally size 42 when buying RTW, but I'm not sure if I can use the same size when using Burda's patterns. What am I supposed to do?
Prvo da napomenem da smo svi različito građeni - neko ima široka ramena, neko velike grudi, neko uske kukove, neko kratak torzo, itd. Uklopimo sve moguće kombinacije telesnih osobina i dobićemo jako mnogo različitih mera/veličina. Dakle, nemoguće je očekivati da svaki kroj svima odgovara, jer su komercijalni krojevi pravljeni prema nekim uopšteno definisanim merama. Čak i u modnoj konfekciji, primetićete da vam modeli određene marke odlično stoje, dok vam modeli druge marke nikako ne pristaju, čak iako su iste veličine. Ovo je iz razloga što svaka modna kuća definiše svoju tabelu mera za svaku veličinu. To znači da uopštena veličina koju ste navikli da kupujete ne mora da odgovara veličini komercijalnog kroja.
I have to point out every single one of us has a unique body shape - one has broad shoulder, some have big breast, some have narrow hips, some have short torso, etc. Try combining different body features and you'll get a lot of different measurements/sizes. Therefore, it's impossible to expect that every pattern fits every person, since commercial patterns are made according to some general measurements. Even in RTW you'll notice that models from different brands can fit you quite differently even though they're the same size.
U skladu sa tim, Burda ima svoju tabelu mera i odgovarajućih veličina, koja je najverovatnije jedinstvena za njihove modele (kliknite na sliku da je uvećate). Italijanski časopis La Mia Boutique i španski Patrones imaju potpuno drugačije sisteme mera.
Therefore, Burda Style has its own size charts that's probably unique and corresponds only to their patterns (click on picture to enlarge it). The Italian La Mia Boutique and Spanish Patrones have completely different size charts.
Since we're talking about measurements, I'd like to point out the importance of taking measurements properly. You can find detailed instructions for taking measurements following the link bellow, or you can use the picture displayed bellow.
Postavlja se pitanje - kako odrediti koja vam veličina odgovara kada svakoj vašoj meri odgovara različita veličina? Burda je devedesetih godina počela da izdaje krojeve u više veličina, što rešenje ovog problema čini veoma jednostavnim. Mnogi drugi komercijalni krojevi su takođe dati u više veličina, pa je postupak koji opisujem primenjiv i na njih.
Primera radi, uzimimo da vaše veličine variraju od 36 do 40, prema sledećem principu:
- Obim grudi - vel. 36
- Obim struka - vel. 38
- Obim kukova - vel. 40
- Širina ramena - vel. 40
- Dužina leđa - vel. 40
- Obim vrata - vel. 38
Napomena: radi preglednosti, ja sam izvukla na papir kroj u sve tri pomenute veličine, ali izmena kroja se može vršiti prilikom vađenja istog, precrtavanjem odgivarajuće veličine i korekcije direktno sa krojnog lista na papir. Veličine 36, 38 i 40 označene su plavom, zelenom i crvenom bojom, respektivno. Korigovan kroj iscrtan je crnim flomasterom. Za potrebe ovog tutorijala, ja sam koristila kroj za haljinu iz Burde 11/2012, #122, ali postupak je isti za sve modele.
The question in - how to define a size, when each measurement corresponds to a different size? Burda Style started printing multisized patterns during the '90ies, which makes a solution to the problem quite simple. Many other commercial patterns are also given in several sizes, so the following procedure can be applied for them too.
As an example, let's say the body measurements correspond to sizes 36 - 40, as following:
- Bust circumference - size 36
- Waist circumference - size 38
- Hip circumference - size 40
- Shoulder width - size 40
- Back length - size 40
- Neck width - size 38
In order to make this tutorial clear, I traced a pattern in all three sizes. However, the alteration can be done while tracing the pattern, drawing alterations directly on the tracing paper. Sizes 36, 38 and 40 are marked in blue, green and red, respectfully. The final pattern is marked with black pen. I used a dress pattern from Burda Style 11/2012, #122, but the procedure can me used for any model.
Krećemo od gornjeg dela haljine, gde nam mere variraju od veličine 36 do 40. Pošto obim grudi odgovara veličini 36, a obim struka vel. 38, korigujemo kroj od pazuha ka struku, praveći prelaz od manje ka većoj veličini u tom smeru. Kopiramo brusnu koja odgovara vel. 38. Širina ramena i dužina leđa odgovaraju vel. 40, pa taj deo kroja kopiramo u odgovarajućoj veličini, korigujući kroj duž otvora za ruku, tj. smanjujući ga prema vel. 36. Primetite da, ako je dužina manja ili veća, kopiraćemo onu veličinu na ramenu koja odgovara toj veličini. Širinu ramena možemo lako suziti ili proširiti po potrebi. Izrez oko vrata smanjujemo od vel. 40 do vel. 38. Ovde mi se podvukla greška - izraz oko vrata moramo podići kako bismo ga smanjili, tj. spustiti kako bismo ga povećali.
We're starting from the top pattern pieces, where measurements vary between sizes 36 and 40. Since bust circumference corresponds to size 36 and waist to size 38, we're altering the pattern from the underarm point towards the waist, making a smooth shift from the smaller to the larger size. We're copying a dart in size 38. Back length and shoulder width correspond to size 40, therefore we copy this part of the pattern in its size, and make an alteration on the armhole, by reducing the size from 40 to 36. Note that in case when back length is smaller or greater we well copy the corresponding shoulder size. Shoulder width can be adjusted as needed. Alter the neckline by reducing the size from 40 to 38. I had a mistake in the previous sentence - the neckline needs to be pulled up in order to reduce it, or pulled down in order to enlarge it.
Isti postupak ponavljamo za zadnji deo kroja.
Repeat the process on the back top panel.
Mere za donji deo tela variraju od vel. 38 do vel. 40, od struka prema kukovima. Dakle, krećemo od vel. 38 na struku i glatkom krivom linijom širimo kroj ka vel. 40. Koristimo brusnu za vel. 38, kao i na gornjem delu kroja. Isti postupak ponavljamo i za zadnji deo suknje.
Bottom body measurements vary from 38 to 40, going from waist to hips. Therefore, we're starting from the size 38 at the waistline, and flare the pattern with a smooth curve towards the size 40. Use the size 38 dart, as you did on the top pattern pieces. Repeat the process for the back skirt pattern.
Na ovaj način dobijamo kroj koji odgovara našim merama. Jednostavno, zar ne? Ipak, napominjem da ćete najverovatnije morati ponegde da dodatno korigujete kroj prilikom samog šivenja. Takođe, želim da naglasim da su ovo najelementarnije korekcije kroja. Budući da je čitateljka početnik u šivenju, mislim da je ova lekcija dovoljna za sada. Kada malo savlada osnove šivenja, može početi da se bavi detaljnijim korekcijama kroja za savršen izgled garderobe.
This way we've gotten us a pattern that suits our measurements. It's quite easy, isn't it? However, I have to point out you'll probably have to make some additional tweaks to the pattern during the sewing process. Also, I'd like to point out these are the basic pattern alterations. Since the reader is a beginner in sewing, I think this lesson is enough for her skill level. Once she gets the basics, she'll be able to make some detailed pattern alterations in order to get a perfect fit.
