A shirt with piping details

* KLIKNITE za tekst na srpskom

After writing about Zlata skirt for more than than a month, I've started feeling nostalgic about the actual sewing. While I was writing the tutorial posts I didn't have time for anything else, and so I gathered some ideas and inspiration and I've been dying to materialize them. So, once the Zlata sewalong was over, I sat down and started sewing like a mad woman. I already have some new items to show you and I'm preparing some new tutorials for you that you'll be able to see soon.

I've also joined forces with Anya of the blog Studio Artesania, who makes amazing jewelry out of polimer clay, so you'll see her works on me from now on. Along with showing off her jewelry we've found some other ways for merging our talents, but more on that in the months to come.

The first garment I'll show you is a lovely navy blue shirt with decorative piping details. You've probably already recognized the model - it's BWOF 01/2008, #108. This is absolutely the best shirt pattern I've had the opportunity to work with and somehow I don't feel like switching to another one. I've redrafted it and altered it countless times and wrote about it here. This time, since I used the plain fabric, I thought it would be nice to give the original pattern a chance once again.

I'm sure you've also recognized the Zlata skirt from the pictures - I've been wearing it non-stop ever since I made it.

However, ever since I gained some weight, I outgrew the size I've been wearing for years (38), so this time I traced the pattern in size 40. When I made the emerald shirt I noticed size 40 was a bit larger than I prefer, so this time I narrowed the pattern at bust and waist. Later on I realized I narrowed it too much, but it was too late to correct the mistake, so the shirt is a bit tight. Honestly, I don't stress about it, but I'll alter the pattern once again so that the next shirt I make (and I'm sure there will be more shirts) should fit me just fine.

This has made me think - how much attention do you pay to fitting and do you make the clothes that's fitting you perfectly, or do you tolerate some minor imperfections? I love having a perfectly fitting clothes and I try to make my garments the best I can. However, sometimes I make mistakes since I avoid making muslins. If the flaw is minor, that does not make me look weird when wearing the garment, I'll consider the garment good enough to make it a keeper. 

Back to shirt. In order to break monotony of the plain fabric, I trimmed the shirt using a piping. The bias band I used has a plaid pattern in blue and white tones.
The bias band was bought ages ago for a skirt I was sewing for my mom. I can't remember why I didn't use it back then, but it matched perfectly with the navy popline, and there was enough of it to trim the seams ans pipe the collar and cuffs.

Finally, here are some close-up pics to show you the details.

How to buy the pattern

Zlata skirt pattern costs $11.98,and it can be bought via my Etsy shop.  I use 2Checkout as a payment collector - it is an equivalent to PayPal - which accepts the following payment methods: * PayPal via 2checkout (www.2co.com) * Credit / Debit cards via 2checkout : Visa, Dina Card, Master Card, American Express, Discover PayPal doesn't support selling option for my country yet, so I use 2Checkout payment collector instead.

When making a purchase order, select "Other" in the payment options. I have to manually issue an invoice for you, via 2Checkout system. The invoice contains a link where you can complete the purchase - it's a page on 2Checkout's website. Once you fill in your billing information, you can chose to pay either by using PayPal account or your credit card. You don't have to register to 2checkout and you won't be charged any additional fees. It's simple, fast and secure. Once the payment is completed, I will enable the pattern download on my Etsy store. I monitor the state of my Etsy store several times a day, and I get instant emails whenever any change is made, so the purchase is usually completed within the same day. Sometimes, due to my daily duties and a time zone differences, it takes more than a day to complete the purchase.

For any additional information about the pattern or the purchase, feel free to email me at: anajan.stepalica [at] gmail [dot] com. 

Related articles

• Zlata skirt Pattern #1401
• Zlata skirt pattern - view A
• Emerald shirt
• How to finish a sleeve slit on a blouse
• Sewing a sleeve cuff on a blouse
• Setting in a sleeve on a blouse
• Numerous faces of the blouse BWOF 1/2008, #108

Košulja sa paspul detaljima

* CLICK to read the text in English

Nakon više od mesec dana pisanja o Zlata suknji i njenom šivenju, uželeh se da zaista sednem za mašinu i napravim nešto novo. Naime, dok sam pisala tutorijal postove, nisam imala vremena ni za šta drugo, pa su se ideje nakupile i gotovo sam pucala od želje da ih realizujem. Zato sam, kad se serijal o šivenju približio kraju, sela za mašinu i počela sumanuto da radim. Već imam nekoliko stvari da vam pokažem, a pripremam i nove tutorijale, koje ćete uskoro imati priliku da vidite.

Pored toga, udružila sam snage sa Anjom sa bloga Studio Artesania, koja pravi fenomenalan nakit od polimerne gline, pa ćete ubuduće moći da vidite njene rukotvorine na meni. Spojile smo lepo i korisno, a ja sam se našla u ulozi manekenke. Pored nakita, smislile smo još zanimljivih načina da udružimo snage, no o tome više reči narednih dana i meseci.

Prva u nizu mojih kreacija je veoma slatka teget košulja sa dekorativnim paspul detaljima. Model sigurno već prepoznajete - u pitanju je kroj iz Burde 01/2008, #108. Ovo je ubedljivo najbolji kroj za košulju koji sam imala priliku da šijem, i nekako mi se ne odustaje od njega. Nebrojeno puta sam ga remodelovala, izmenila, prekrojila, i pisala o tome ovde. Ovaj put, pošto sam koristila jednobojni materijal, pomislih kako bi bilo lepo da se vratim originalnom modelu.

Sigurno ste na slikama prepoznali i Zlata suknju, koju non-stop nosim od kako sam je napravila.

Međutim, od kako sam se ugojila, prerasla sam svoju dosadašnju veličinu 38, tako da sam ovaj put košulju iskrojila u veličini 40. Kada sam šila smaragdnozelenu košulju primetila sam da mi je veličina 40 malo veća nego što volim da nosim, tako da sam prepravila kroj i suzila ga u predelu struka i grudi. Kasnije se ispostavilo da sam i previše suzila košulju, ali je bilo prekasno da išta promenim - košulju mogu da obučem, ali je preko grudi blago tesna. Iskreno, ne tangiram se previše zbog toga, ali ću kroj još jednom korigovati kako bi sledeća bluza koju po njemu napravim (a sigurna sam da će ih biti još!) bila taman.

To me navodi na razmišljanje - koliko pažnje poklanjate korekciji kroja, i u kojoj meri vam je bitno da vam garderoba bude savršeno taman, i da li tolerišete sitne nesavršenosti koje verovatno samo vi primećujete, i možda još poneko ko se razume u šivenje i ukrajanje garderobe? Ja volim kada je garderoba dobro ukrojena i trudim se da je napravim najbolje što mogu. Međutim, ponekad napravim manje ili veće greške, jer uglavnom izbegavam da testiram krojeve. Ukoliko je greška mala, i takva da odeću mogu da obučem a da ne izgledam čudno, smatraću da je taj komad garderobe dovoljno dobar da ga nosim.

Kako bih razbila monotoniju jednobojnog materijala i istakla kroj, ukrasila sam košulju paspulom u šavu, a traka koju sam koristila ima lepu karo šaru u teget i plavim tonovima na beloj podlozi.

Paspul traku sam imala u svom šteku pozamanterije - kupljena je pre nekoliko godina sa idejom da ukrasum suknju koju sam šila za mamu. Ne mogu da se setim zašto nisam iskoristila traku tada, ali sada se savršeno uklopila sa teget puplinom, i imala sam je taman dovoljno da je umetnem u sve šavove i paspuliram kragnu i manžetne.

A evo i par slika da izbliza dočaraju detalje košulje.

Kupovina kroja

Zlata kroj za suknju košta $11.98, ali kupci iz Srbije ovaj šnit mogu kupiti za upola manje novca, tj. za 500 RSD. Kroj se može kupiti u dolarskoj valuti preko moje onlajn prodavnice na Etsy sajtu, ili uplatom novca u dinarskoj valuti na moj žiro račun. Napominjem da dinarske cene ne važe ukoliko kupujete preko Etsy prodavnice. Za sve dodatne informacije o kupovini, molim vas šaljite mi email na adresu: anajan.stepalica [at] gmail [dot] com.

Povezani članci

• Zlata kroj za suknju #1401
• Zlata kroj za suknju - varijacija A
• Kako obraditi šlic na rukavu bluze
• Smaragdna košulja
• Šivenje manžetne rukava na bluzi
• Uglavljivanje rukava na bluzi
• Brojna lica bluze iz Burde 1/2008, #108

Smaragdna košulja / An emerald shirt

Konačno imam i slike košulje o kojoj sam pisala prošle nedelje. Poslužila je kao dobar materijal za par tutorijala.

Košulja je napravljena od divnog pamučnog puplina, koji sam kupila po neverovatno niskoj ceni (kako volim kad mi se to desi!). Boja materijala me ponajviše privukla - mešavina pertrolej i smaragdno zelene smaragdnozelene (naučih od Milje nešto novo o srpskom pravopisu), prelepa!

Smišljala sam kako bih mogla najbolje da iskoristim svoj materijal, i lomila se između košulje i letnje haljine, ali sam shvatila da mi je nova košulja mnogo potrebnija.

I can finally show you pictures of an emerald shirt I wrote about last week. It served as a nice material for several tutorials.
The shirt is made of a gorgeous cotton poupline that I bought for really cheap (oh how I love when this happens!). I was drawn to it by the color - a mixture of an emerald and petrol green, just gorgeous! I've been thinking of how to utilize the fabric and was in doubt between making a shirt or a summer dress, but I realized I needed a shirt more than a dress.

Osnova za bluzu je kroj od koga ne odustajem - Burda 1/2008 #108. Ponekad samu sebe iznenadim novim varijacijama koje ovaj kroj može da iznedri. Ideja za ovu bluzu nije preterano originalna, sličnu sam napravila davno, koristeći kroj iz španskog časopisa Patrones. Originalna bluza mi je zadala par glavobolja, jer je kroj ispao prilično velik i morala sam dosta da ga korigujem kako bih spasila bluzu. Kasnije sam, tako korigovan kroj koristila još par puta, ali sam primetila da šav koji spaja gornje i donje panele prednjice stoji previsoko preko grudi, što prilično čudno igleda. Zato reših da iznova prekrojim svoj omiljeni kroj i napravim repliku već pomenute košulje.

A basis for the shirt is the pattern I've been using over and over again - BWOF 1/2008 #108. I surprise myself sometimes with the endless variations that come from this pattern. The idea for the blouse was not a very original one, I made a similar blouse ages ago, using a pattern from the Spanish Patrones magazine. The original blouse gave me a headache, since the pattern turned out too big and I had to tweak it a lot in order to save the blouse. Later on, I used the altered pattern few more times, but I've noticed that the horizontal seam joining the upper and lower panels sits to high over my breast, which looks kind of awkward. So I decided to redraft my favorite pattern once again and make a replica of the mentioned blouse.

 

Prednji donji paneli su najpre nafaltani sitnim falticama, a potom ukoso iskrojeni tako da faltice formiraju šaru riblje kosti. Gornji bočni paneli su blago prošireni kako bih mogla da ih naberem ispod grudi.

The bottom front panels were pleated first with tiny pintucks, and then cut on bias so that the pintucks form a chevron motif. The top side panels were altered a bit in order to make gathers under bust.

Kragnu i manžetne sam takođe iskrojila od nafaltanog materijala, pri čemu se motiv riblje kosti ponavlja na kragni, dok su na manžetnama faltice postavljene vodoravno.

The collar and cuffs were also cut from the pleated fabric, repeating the chevron motif on the collar. The pintucks were laid horizontally on the cuffs.

Neverovatno kako jedna jednobojna košulja ume da zada problem prilikom kombinovanja sa ostalom garderobom. Ovaj put sam je uparila sa teget suknjom, ali sam kupila još par materijala za suknje, koje planiram da nosim sa ovom bluzom. Jedna od njih je skoro gotova, tako da možete uskoro da očekujete novi post.

It's amazing how a plain shirt can be difficult to match with the rest of one's wardrobe. This time I paired it with a navy skirt, but I bought few more fabrics for skirts that I plan to wear with the shirt. One of the skirts is almost finished, so you can expect a new post about it soon.

U međuvremenu, evo par tehnika koje sam koristila prilikom šivenja košulje. Klik na sliku odvešće vas do odgovarajućih instrukcija.

Meanwhile, here are some of the techniques I used while sewing the shirt. Click on the picture will take you to the corresponding tutorial post.

 
 

Šivenje manžetne rukava na bluzi / Sewing a sleeve cuff on a blouse

Evo još jednog, kratkog tutorijala, kojim ćemo kompletirati priču o šlicu na rukavu bluze. Kada je šlic obrađen, rukav treba prošiti duž bočnih šavova, tako da formira "cilindar".

Kroj za manžetne je u osnovi pravougaonik (koji može imati blage varijacije, zavisno od detalja - na primer, zaobljene ivice), par santimerata širi od obima ručnog zgloba, i duplo duži od potrebne dužine gotove manžetne. Pošto sam za lice manžetne koristila nafaltani materijal, ja sam svoje manžetne spajala od dva materijala. Flizelin nalepiti na naličje materijala, i to na onaj deo manžetne koji će biti na licu košulje - u mom slučaju, na nafaltani deo.

Here's another short tutorial, which will complete the story about the sleeve slit on a blouse. Once the slit is finished, the sleeve should be sewn along the side seams, so that it forms a tube.

The sleeve cuffs' pattern is a rectangle (which could have some slight variations, depending on details - for example, rounded ends), that's a few centimeters wider than the circumference of your wrist, and twice as long as the finished cuff. Since I used the fabric with pintucks for the upper layer of the cuffs, I joined two fabrics to get the basis of the cuff. I fused the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric, to the upper cuff's layer.

Saviti manžetnu na pola po dužini, pa prošiti bočne šavove. Stanjite dodatke za šavove na oko 5 mm. Izvrnite manžetne na lice i prepeglajte ih dobro.

Fold the cuff along it's length and sew the side seam. Cut off the SAs. Flip the cuffs inside out and press them well.

Kada prišivate manžetnu, najpre prišijte donji, unutrašnji sloj, za rukav - postavite lice materijala manžetne na naličje rukava. Najpre poravnajte ivice manžetne i šlica rukava, pa zatim i ostatak dužine. Primetite da je obim rukava širi od manžetne, pa je potrebno napraviti faltu na rukavu, prateći oznake na kroju.

Kada ste prišili donji sloj manžetne, prepeglajte materijal, peglajući sa naličja rukava, a u smeru od rukava ka manžetni, tako da se prošiveni šav potpuno ispresuje.

When attaching the cuff to the sleeve, sew the lower cuff's layer to the sleeve first - place the right side of the cuff to the wrong side of the sleeve. Align the cuff's ends with the sleeve slit's ends first and then align the rest of the length. Note that circumference of the sleeve is greater than the cuff's width, so make a pleat on the sleeve, following the pleat notches on the sleeve pattern.

Once the lower layer of the cuff is attached, press the sleeve, ironing in a direction from the sleeve towards the sleeve cuff.

Sada pažljivo presavijte spoljni sloj manžetne na unutra, tako da pregib prekriva prethodno napravljen šav. Špenadlama pričvrstite slojeve materijala. Opet, prilikom rada, krenite prvo od ivica šlica rukava, pa se pomerajte ka sredini.

Proštepajte manžetnu, vodeći štep tik uz ivicu pregiba tkanine. Prepeglajte manžetnu i rukav još jednom.

Carefully fold the upper layer of the cuff inwards, so that the fold line covers the previously made stitch. Pin the fabrics in place. Again, when working, start from the cuff's ends and continue towards the center.

Topstitch the cuff by stitching as close as possible to the fold line. Press the sleeve and the cuff once again.

Sada je rukav spreman da se spoji sa ostatkom košulje.

The sleeves are now ready to be sewn to the bodice of the blouse.

Kako obraditi šlic na rukavu bluze / How to finish a sleeve slit on a blouse

Danas ću vam pokazati kako se obrađuje šlic na rukavu bluze. Ovaj tutorijal nije novina u svetu krojaških blogera, ali ni jedan nisam imala prilike da vidim na sprskom jeziku, pa pomislih kako ne bi bilo na odmet da napišem instrukcije.

I'll show you how to finish a sleeve slit on a blouse. The technique is not a novelty in the sewing blogosphere, but I haven't had a chance to see any similar tutorials written in Serbian, so I thought it wouldn't hurt to write down the instructions.

Dakle, obeležite šlic na rukavu, premerite ga i iskrojte trakicu sledećih dimenzija:

• širina: 4 cm
• dužina: dužina šlica x 2 + 2-3 cm

Traku možete iskrojiti paralelno sa pravcem tkanja matarijala, ili pod uglom od 45 stepeni. Ako koristite prugasti materijal, kosa traka će imati veoma zanimljiv efekat.

So, mark the slit line on the sleeve. Measure the slit and cut a strip of fabric with the following dimensions:

• width: 4 cm
• length: slit lengthx 2 + 2-3 cm

You can cut the strip on straight grain or on bias. If you're using a striped fabric, a bias cut strip would add some drama to your shirt.

Isecite šlic duž iscrtane linije, pa se zaustavite na oko 5 mm od temena duži. Odatle secnite materijal dijagonalno ka temenima oznake šlica, vodeći računa da ne prosečete tkaninu dalje od krajnjih tačaka.

Cut the slit along the marked line, stopping the cutting approximately 5 mm away from the end of the line. Make diagonal cuts towards the endpoints of the slit, making sure you don't cut further from these points.

Postavite lice trakice na naličje rukava, poravnavajući njenu ivicu sa ivicom šlica. Pričvrstite tkanine špenadlama.

Lay the right side of the strip along the wrong side of the sleeve, aligning the raw edges. Pin the fabrics in place.

Otvorite šlic tako da formira pravu liniju, pa poravnajte ivice materijala celom dužinom. Proštepajte slojeve zajedno, vodeći računa da šav prolazi tik uz ćoškove šlica.

Open the slit so that it forms a straight line, and align it with the strip along it's length. Sew the fabrics together, making sure you sew next to the slit's endpoints.

Savijte slobodnu ivicu trakice na unutra, paveći pregib na 5 mm od ivice. Prepeglajte pregib. Prošivenu ivicu trakice prepeglajte tako da je šav lepo ispresovan.

Fold the free edge of the strip by 5 mm and press the fold line. Press to the side the sewed edge of the slit.

Savijte trakicu preko lica rukava, tako da pregib slobodne ivice prekriva prethodno napravljen štep. Pričvrstite slojeve materijala šenadlama.

Fold the strip over the right side of the fabric, so that the strip covers the previously made stitch. Pin the layers together.

Proštepajte duž slobodne ivice trakice, postavljajući štep tik uz ivicu pregiba.

Topstitch the strip, sewing right next to the fold line.

Otsecite krajeve trakice koji štrče sa rukava. 

Spojte i poravnajte ivice šlica, postavljajući lice ka licu, pa napravite dijagonalni štep, koji spaja teme šlica sa ivicama.

Cut off the extra fabric from the strip.

Align the sleeve legs together, placing them with right sides together. Make a diagonal stitch, connecting the end point of the slit with its edge lines.

Preklopite delove rukava kao što je prikazano na slici, pa ga preleglajte.. Sada možete da spojite bočne šavove rukava, a potom i da prišijete manžetnu.

Lay the sleeve as shown on the picture and press it well. Your sleeve is now ready for sewing it along the side seams and for attaching a sleeve cuff.