How to add a commodity pleat to a jacket lining

* za verziju teksta na srpskom, pogledajte ovde.

When sewing a jacket, blazer or a coat, do you pay attention to a garment's commodity and if it's gonna enable you a normal body movement? If you could make a minor pattern alteration, that would make the garment more practical and comfortable, would you invest extra few minutes to do it? 

Today I'm going to show you a simple technique which gives answers to these questions: learn how to add a commodity center back pleat to a jacket lining.

So, the commodity pleat is added to the center back seam of the bodice, and its purpose is to reduce a potential feel of tightness the lining might cause when wearing the garment. You have probably learnt the lining should have the same dimensions as the shell (which is correct, otherwise it might make bulk under the shell), but this kind of plead does not add extra bulk while it adds that extra centimeters to the widht of the garment, making it more comfortable to wear.

Adding the commodity pleat is quite simple, and it actually does not require altering the pattern itself; all you have to do is change the way you cut a fabric. When placing the CB pattern panel to the fabric, shift it a bit, so that it's placed 4 - 5 cm away from the fabric's fold line, with the straight grain line on the pattern being parallel to the fold line of the fabric. Note that the CB of the pattern I used is a straight line, while the pattern can have a curved line there; however, the procedure I'm describing is identical in both cases.

Pin the pattern to the fabric and handbaste along the CB edge of the pattern.

Reinforce the basting ends, so that it doesn't rip off. Remove the paper pattern from the fabric. You've gotten a pleat 8 - 10 cm wide.

Press the pleat open, spreading its width evenly on both sides of the basted seam.

Keep the basting thread until you have sewed the neckline facing and a peplum. If your pattern doesn't have a peplum, but a continuous CB seam, sew the pleat from the waist down to the hemline, leaving the top portion of the pleat just basted.

Once you have assembled the lining - both front and back panels, and added the sleeves, remove the basting thread. And that's it! You've gotten a commodity pleat. It wasn't difficult at all, was it?

Related articles

• Alexander McQueen Jacket styled like Chanel 
• How to shorten a jacket zipper
• How to make a fringe trim with fabric remnants
• How to hem a jacket with a peplum

Kako dodati faltu za komociju na postavi jakne

* to read the text in English, click here.

Kada šijete jaknu, blejzer ili kaput, koliko vodite računa o udobnosti odeće i o tome kako ćete se kretati u njoj? Da li vam je bitno da odeću skrojite tako da vam daje lufta za normalne pokrete tela? Ako možete da napravite malu izmenu na kroju, koja će vašu garderobu učiniti praktičnijom i komotnijom, da li ste spremni da odvojite koji minut više za to? 

Danas ću vam pokazati jednostavnu tehniku koja daje odgovore na ova pitanja: naučute kako da dodate faltu za komociju na postavi jakne.

Dakle, falta za komociju se dodaje na zadnji srednji krojni deo prsluka, a svrha joj je da smanji potencijalnu tenziju koju sama postava može stvarati prilikom kretanja tela. Verovatno ste naučili da postava treba da bude istih dimenzija i kroja kao i spoljni sloj odeće (što je potpuno tačno, jer je bitno da postava ne pravi zadebljanja ispod odeće), ali ovakva falta ne pravi nabore i zadebljanja, a dodaje postavi tih par santimetara po širini, zbog kojih je jakna komotnija za nošenje.

Dodavanje falte za komociju je jednostavno, i zapravo ne zahteva izmenu kroja, već samo korekciju prilikom krojenja mateijrala. Kada postavljate zadnji srednji panel prsluka na materijal, stavite ga tako da je pomeren 4 - 5 cm od pregiba tkanine, i tako da je linija pravca niti na kroju paralelna sa linijom pregiba. Primetite da je na slici ivica kroja potpuno ravna, ali kroj može imati i relativno zakrivljenu ivicu, međutim, postupak je potpuno identičan ovom koji prikazujem.

Špenadlama pričvrstite kroj za materijal i profircajte sitnim bodom liniju, prateći ivicu kroja.

Dobro ojačajte krajeve firca, kako se isti ne bi oparao. Uklonite kroj sa materijala. Dobili ste faltu ukupne širine 8 - 10 cm.

Prepeglajte faltu, ravnomerno je šireći sa obe strane profircanog šava.

Firc zadržite sve dok ne prišijete opšivak okovratnika i volan struka. Ukoliko vaš kroj nema volan, proštepajte mašinom faltu od struka do poruba, ostavljajući gornji deo falte samo profircanim.

Kada ste sastavili celu postavu - i prednje i zadnje delove, kao i dodali rukave, uklonite konac sa falte. I to je to! Dobili ste faltu za komociju. Nije bilo posebno teško, zar ne?

Povezani članci

• Aleksandar Mekvin jakna u Šanel stilu
• Kako skratiti rajsferšlus za jaknu
• Kako napraviti ukrasne rese od ostatka materijala
• Kako porubiti jaknu sa volanom na struku

Alexander McQueen Jacket styled like Chanel

If you sew, I'm sure you like fashion and sometimes look for inspiration by looking at fashion show pictures or by visiting your favorite boutique. I also believe you sometimes copy your favorite designer and insert into your creations some details you saw on RTW garments. But, there are so many great ideas and you only have two hands and a limited time for sewing. How to pick an item to sew, a style to follow and a designer to copy? Sometimes the best solution is being practical and combining...

* za verziju teksta na srpskom, pogledajte ovde.

That's exactly what I did with this jacket. Two years ago I found a picture of a leather jacket by Alexander McQueen. The jacket was just gorgeous - I loved the asymmetry, the zipper closure, the ranglan sleeves, and the fact it was a leather jacket. Ever since then I've been thinking of copying it. I even bought a light gold fake leather with imprinted snakeskin pattern. But I don't have much experience with sewing fake leather, so I'm reluctant cutting my gorgeous fabric. Instead, I'm still waiting for the right moment to come...

Meanwhile, I've been thinking of the alternatives, but no fabric seemed appropriate. Well, at least not until I saw a picture from the Chanel fashion show. Imagine the coincidence, I had an almost identical fabric in my stash, that had been sitting in my closet for years, waiting for the right pattern! I had an a-ha moment, and thought how McQueen jacket would look great if styled a bit differently...

A basis for the pattern is the Nora dress from Burda Style site; actually, the military jacket I made few years ago using the same pattern. Since the military jacket had ranglan sleeves and a peplum, it was a perfect pattern as a starting point - I only had to alter the front panels.

Instead of using a traditional Chanel braid as a trim, I decided to add fringe - this way, the trim is visible not only when the jacket is closed, but also when the flap is opened forming over-sized lapels.

Due to the zipper closure, the jacket looks rather casual and youthful, so I don't feel dressed  too formally or mature while wearing it. Just the right thing for me!

the jacket zipped up

half unzipped

half unzipped and with opened lapels

unzipped - my favorite way of wearing it

Here are some pics of the lining.

 

there's a center back pleat for commodity

hanger loop, which I always add to all jackets and coats

 

details of the ranglan sleeve

Related articles

• How to add a commodity pleat to a jacket lining
• How to shorten a jacket zipper
• How to make a fringe trim with fabric remnants
• How to hem a jacket with a peplum

Aleksandar Mekvin jakna u Šanel stilu

Ako šijete, sigurna sam da volite modu, i da ponekad zavirite u slike modnih revija, ili svratite u omiljeni butik, tražeći inspiraciju. Verujem da povremeno kopirate omiljenog dizajnera, i da u svoje kreacije ubacujete detalje koje ste već videli negde. Ali, toliko ima sjajnih ideja, a vi imate samo dve ruke, i ograničenu količinu vremena da se posvetite šivenju. Kako odabrati koju stvar da napravite, koji stil da ispratite, i kog dizajnera da kopirate? Nekada je najbolje biti praktičan, i kombinovati...

* to read the text in English, click here.

Upravo to sam i ja uradila sa ovom jaknom. Naime, pre dve godine sam na netu našla sliku kožne jakne dizajnera Aleksandra Mekvina. Jakna me momentalno fascinirala - dopala mi se asimetrija, rajsferšlus zakopčavanje, ranglan rukavi, kao i to što je od kože. Od onda smišljam kako da je kopiram. Čak sam kupila veoma lep skaj, u bledo zlatastoj boji, i sa utisnutom šarom zmijske kože. Međutim, nemam mnogo iskustva u šivenju skaja, pa još uvek oklevam da se upustim u seckanje mog lepog materijala. Čekam pravi momenat...

U međuvremenu sam smišljala koju drugu tkaninu da upotrebim, ali mi ni jedna nije delovala adekvatna. To jest, sve dok nisam naišla na sliku sa modne revije Šanel kuće. Zamislite koincidenciju, imala sam gotovo identičan materijal kod sebe, koji je stajao godinama u ormanu, čekajući pravi kroj! Tada mi je sinulo da bi Mekvin jakna odlično izgledala kada bih je malo drugačije stilizovala...

Osnova za kroj je Nora haljina sa Burda Style sajta, tj. military jakna koju sam napravila pre par godina koristeći isti kroj. Budući da kroj za military jaknu ima ranglan rukave, kao i volan od struka naniže, bio je idealan kao osnova za dalje modelovanje - izmenila sam samo prednje panele za potrebe nove jakne. 

Umesto tradicionalne pletenice, ja sam kao ukras na jaknu stavila rese - na ovaj način, ukras je vidljiv i kada je jakna zakopčana, ali i kada je preklop otvoren i formira raskošan rever. 

Zbog rajsferšlusa jakna izgleda prilično svakodnevno i mladalački, pa se u njoj ne osećam kao da sam obukla poslovni kostim i da sam totalno staromodna. Sve u svemu, pun pogodak!

jakna kad je zakopčana

delimično otkopčan rajsferšlus

delimično otkopčan rajsferšlus i otvoreni reveri

otkopčana jakna - moj omiljeni način za nošenje

Evo i par slika postave jakne.

 

falta za komociju na sredini leđa

gajka za kačenje, koju obavezno stavljam na svaku jaknu i kaput

 

ranglan rukav

Povezani članci

• Kako skratiti rajsferšlus za jaknu
• Kako dodati faltu za komociju na postavi jakne
• Kako napraviti ukrasne rese od ostatka materijala
• Kako porubiti jaknu sa volanom na struku

Sivo - žuta haljina / A gray and yellow dress

Dragi čitaoci, hvala vam mnogo na rečima podrške i željama da se brzo oporavim. Ja se, zapravo, već odlično osećam, tako da sam nastavila sa svojim uobičajenim aktivnostima, i šijem kao sumanuta! 

Pošto smo morali da pomerimo venčanje za Oktobar, shvatila sam da će vremenske prilike biti drugačije od onih u Avgustu i rešila da svadbeni outfit upotpunim laganom jaknicom. Jaknicu sam do pola sašila, i nadam se da ću imati vremena narednih dana da je dovršim, jer je dan venčanja veoma blizu.

Takođe, oprobala sam se i u šivenju muške garderobe, tako da ću uskoro pisati i o tome.

Dear readers, thank you so much for the supportive words and the get-well wishes. I actually already feel great, so I've continued with my usual life style and I've been sewing like a mad woman!

Since we had to reschedule the wedding for October, I realized the weather would differ from the one in August, and decided to complete my wedding outfit with a light jacket. The jacket is half done and I hope I'll have enough time to complete it in the next few days, since the wedding day is very close.

Also I tried sewing some men clothes, so I'll write about that very soon.

U ranijem postu sam pomenula novu haljinu koju sam sašila u kompletu sa sivom jaknom. U pitanju je satenska haljina u žuto - sivim tonovima, materijal koji me potpuno fascinirao kada sam ga videla. Nisam imala jasnu ideju kakvu bih haljinu od njega sašila dok nisam videla septembarsku Burdu i dizajnerski model sa potpisom Metjua Vilijamsona (Burda 09/2012, #134). Čim sam videla tehnički crtež, znala sam da će haljina odlično izgledati u dezenu koji sam imala pred sobom. Dodatno me oduševilo to što haljina ima i džepove.

I mentioned before a new dress I made to match the gray jacket. It's a satin dress in yellow - gray tones, the fabric that fascinated me when I saw it. I didn't have a clear image of a dress I'd make from it until I saw the September issue of Burda Style and the designer model signed by Matthew Williamson (Burda Style 09/2012, #134). The moment I saw a technical drawing I knew the dress would look great in a print I had in front of me. I was additionally thrilled by the pockets on the dress.

Osim par sitnijih korekcija (kao što je prilagođavanje veličine kroja mojim dimenzijama i obliku), kroj mi je odlično stajao i nisam imala nikakvih problema tokom šivenja.

Beside few minor corrections (like adjusting the size to my dimensions and shape), the pattern fitted me well and I had no problems with it while sewing.

Kod ove haljine mi se dopada i V izrez na leđima - neočekivan detalj na inače potpuno konvencionalnoj haljini.

I love the back V neckline - such an unexpected detail on a rather conventional dress.

Na haljini sam postavila samo suknju, jer planiram da haljinu nosim i leti, a tada mi je previše toplo da bih nosila dva sloja materijala.

I lined only the skirt portion of the dress, since I plan to wear it during summer, when it's too warm for wearing two layers of fabric.

 

A evo kako haljina izgleda u kompletu sa jaknicom. Dopada mi se što je jakna prilično kratka - to je zapravo dužina jakne koja meni najbolje stoji, posebno u kombinaciji sa suknjama i haljinama.

And here's how the dress looks matched with the jacket. I really like that the jacket is rather short - it's the length that looks best on me, especially when combined with skirts and dresses.

I, kad sam se već lepo uslikala, što da ne podelim slike sa vama?

And, since I made some really nice shots, I saw no reason not to share them with you.

Kako nadoknaditi izgubljeno vreme? / How to catch up with the lost time?

Dragi čitaoci, nije me bilo jako dugo, iako sam najavljivala velika dešavanja i još veće postove. Znate onu izreku - život je ono što vam se desi dok pravite druge planove? Mislim da sam iskusila na sopstvenoj koži kako to izgleda. Naime, imala sam zakazano venčanje za kraj avgusta, spremala se za veliki dan, a onda me viša sila omela u tome da svoje planove realizujem. Uspela sam da se razbolim 10ak dana pred venčanje, toliko gadno, da sam morala da idem u bolnicu. I tako, morali smo da pomerimo venčanje za neki drugi dan, a umesto medenog meseca smo upoznavali blagodeti bolničkog života - ja sa lica mesta, a on iz druge ruke. Ne mogu da se požalim da nam je bilo dosadno, mada nikome ne bih poželela da prođe kroz slično iskustvo. 

Po izlasku iz bolnice mi je savetovano da mirujem i da ostanem na kućnom lečenju, tako da sam više od mesec dana provela bolujući, iako sam se, po dolasku kući, osećala mnogo bolje. Suočena sa ozbiljnom dokolicom, reših da prekratim vreme na najmirniji mogući način - nad šivaćom mašinom. Sašila sam nekoliko komada garderobe, nešto je još uvek u procesu pravljenja, a na pameti mi je više stvarčica koje planiram uskoro da šijem. 

Dear readers, I've been away for a long time, though I had announced some big happenings and even bigger posts. But there's a saying - life's what happens while you make other plans. I think I've experienced that on my own skin. I had a wedding scheduled for the end of August, I had been getting ready for the big day, when the higher force stopped me from fulfilling my plans. I managed to get sick 10 days before the wedding, and it was bad enough to put me to the hospital. Therefore, we had to reschedule the wedding. Instead of going to the honeymoon we enjoyed in benefits of the hospital life - I from the hot spot, and he from my experience. I can't complain we had a dull time, but I wouldn't recommend this kind of experience to anyone.

After being released from the hospital I was advised to rest at home as much as possible, so I spent more than a month on a sick leave (even though I felt much better when I got home). Faced with a serious idle time, I decided to shorten the time in the most peaceful way I'd known of - by sewing. I made several garments, started sewing few more, and I have several items on my mind for the close future projects.

Ovo je jaknica rađena po modelu iz Burde 07/2005, #117. Sećam se da sam isti kroj pokušala da sašijem pre par godina, ali je jakna završila u kanti za đubre. Nešto mi tada nije odgovaralo, ali ne mogu da se setim u čemu je bio problem. Ovaj put sam krenula da šijem sa velikom dozom opreza, ali nisam imala nikakvih poteškoća tokom rada. Napravila sam par manjih izmena na kroju, kako bi mi jakna lepše stajala, vodeći računa da originalan dizajn ostane prepoznatljiv: suzila sam jaknu u ramenima, produžila rukave i produžila samu jaknu. Ostatak jakne mi je stajao kao saliven.

This is a jacket made using the BWOF 07/2005, #117 pattern. I remember trying to sew the same model few years ago, but the jacket ended up in the trash. There was something that didn't fit me right back then, but I can't remember what the problem was. This time I started with a great dose of caution, but I didn't have any issues during the work. I made a few minor fitting alterations, making sure the original design wasn't changed: I narrowed the shoulders, lengthened the sleeves and the body. The rest of the jacket fit me perfectly as it was.

Koristila sam lan protkan sjajnim nitima, pa tkanina lepo svetluca na svetlu. Da bih materijalu dala čvrtsinu potrebnu za jaknu, ojačala sam sve krojne delove lepljivim platnom, s tim što su kragna i prednji psec ojačani sa 2 sloja. Zanimljivo je da sam ovaj lan kupila sa idejom da sašijem pantalone, pa se predomislila shvativši da je materijal previše svečan za to. Odložila sam ga, ubeđena da ću jednog dana od njega napraviti neku zanimljivu haljinu. Međutim, kada sam tkaninu postavila uz žuto sivi saten koji sam kasnije kupila, shvatila sam da je lan kao stvoren za jaknu. Od satena je nastala prelepa haljina, ali o tome ćemo u nekom drugom postu....

I used a linen with shining threads in it, so the jacket sparkles nicely on light. To give the fabric enough sturdiness I interfaces all panels with a fusible interfacing (collar and front facing panels were interfaced with 2 layers of interfacing). An interesting detail is that I bought this fabric to sew a pair of pants, but I soon realized it was too fancy for it. So I put it aside convinced it would turn into a nice dress some day. Well, when I put the fabric next to the yellow-gray satin I bought later on, I realized the linen was destined to become a jacket. The satin turned into a gorgeous dress, but we'll talk about it in some other post...