The chevron dress... again

* KLIKNITE za tekst na srpskom

We attended a wedding this weekend, and I found myself in panic over what to wear. So I thought of sewing a new dress, I even bought a fabric for it, but gave up since I realized I was too tired (still recovering from the Zlata skirt sewalong, it dried out my energy) to push myself to make an advanced level dress (the dress should have had interesting details made of a see through tulle). When I'm tired and forcing myself to sew, it's like I'm waiting for a disaster to happen - the experience thought me it's better to stop than to make one mistake after another.

Since I decided not to sew, it occurred to me I could buy a dress, but none of the dresses I found were good enough - they were OK, but made me think I would make them myself much better. It also reminded me of why I almost completely stopped buying new clothes.

Since buying a dress was not an option, I was left thinking I had nothing to wear, since all the dresses I made in the past few years became too small as I've gained a lot of weight. And then I had an a-ha moment - there was a dress that fit me, suitable for the occasion, and that I haven't had a chance to wear yet.

While wearing the dress I noticed an issue with it - the pockets on the dress stand open, due to the stiff fabric the dress is made of (taffeta), making the dress not look quite flattering when looked from the side. Also, when I sit, the skirt rises up and all the fabric is gathered at the waist, making a huge bulk over my stomach - not pretty. I think the dress would fit me much better if the pockets were closed, so I'll try to alter it.

Other than that, the dress is really comfortable, and I actually like it.

The weather has been changing these days, with sunny and rainy periods swapping during the day, I needed a jacket to wear over the dress, and the Chanel coat seemed to be a perfect match. I only have these two pics to show you the whole outfit, but I think they're good enough.

Related posts

• Two of my dresses featured in Sew News!
• The chevron dress
• A gray and yellow dress
• How to sew chevron
• A Chanel coat made back in 2009

Haljina sa šarom riblje kosti... još jednom

* CLICK to read the text in English

Ovog vikenda smo išli na svadbu, a ja sam se našla u panici zvanoj - "Šta da obučem". Već sam se odlučila da napravim novu haljinu, čak sam i materijal kupila, ali sam u međuvremenu shvatila da sam toliko umorna i neispavana (i dalje se oporavljam od intenzivnog rada koji me iscrpeo tokom pisanja serijala postova o šivenju Zlata suknje), da prosto nemam snage da šijem komplikovane kreacije (haljina je trebalo da ima zanimljive detalje od providnog tila). Kada sam premorena i forsiram sebe da šijem, kao da čekam katastrofu da se desi - iskustvo je pokazalo da je tada najbolje stati i ne srljati u greške koje su često nepopravljive. 

Pošto sam rešila da ne šijem, palo mi je na pamet da kupim neku haljinu, ali mi se ništa od onog što sam videla nije dopalo - svaka haljina koju bih probala mi je bila "onako" - nije loša, ali ja bih to bolje uradila, ili bih je prepravila. U međuvremenu sam se potsetila zašto sam gotovo prestala da kupujem garderobu.

Pošto je i opcija kupovine haljine otpala, pomislih kako zaista nemam šta da obučem, jer su mi sve stare haljine tesne i male, a nove nisu prikladne za svadbene prilike. A onda se setih da ipak postoji haljina koja mi je taman, koju nikad nisam ni obukla, a koja je veoma adekvatna za ovakvu priliku.

Prilikom nošenja haljine sam primetila jednu stvar koja mi se nije baš dopala - zbog relativno žilavog materijala od kog je napravljena (sintetički taft), džepovi uglavnom stoje prilično otvoreni, što iz profila ne izgleda lepo. Takođe, kada sedim, suknja se prilično podiže, a sav taj materijal koji se popne naviše se naklobuči na stomaku, što uopšte nije lepo. Mislim da bi haljina mnogo bolje stajala kada bih zatvorila džepove, tako da ću to defeinitivno uraditi u narednim danima. 

Mimo ovih par problema, haljina je bila izuzetno udobna za nošenje, tako da sam ipak zadovoljna njome.

Pošto je trenutno u Srbiji promenljivo vreme, kad se smenjuju intervali sunca i kiše, a temperatura oscilira, trebala mi je neka jaknica preko haljine, a ljubičasti kaputić u Šanel stilu je odlično poslužio svrsi, Nemam ni jednu sliku gde stojim sama, ali verujem da i ove slike na kojima sam sa D. dobro dočaravaju moj stajling.

Povezani tekstovi

• Moje dve haljine u Sew News časopisu!
• Haljina - riblja kost
• Sivo - žuta haljina
• Kako se šije riblja kost
• Šanel kaputić iz 2009. godine

Žuto-zeleni kaputić u Sew News časopisu / Yellow-olive coat in Sew News magazine

Koliko često dobijate pakete poštom? Da li vas iznenade, da li im se obradujete? Koji paket vas je posebno oduševio, i kada je to bilo? Da li ste se nekad razočarali ili bili nezadovoljni sadržajem pošiljke?

How often do you receive packages by mail? Do they surprise you, do they make you happy? Which parcel excited you, and when was it? Did you ever feel disappointed or unsatisfied with the contents of the parcel?

Budući da već imam solidan staž u saradnji sa Sew News časopisom, prilično sam navikla na slanje, ali i primanje poštanskih pošiljki. Svaka dva meseca se obradujem paketu koji dobijem iz Amerike, ali neke pakete iščekujem sa većim nestrpljenjem nego druge. Pojedini članci koje ispišem su mi draži od drugih, a neke od stvari koje napravim za magazin jedva dočekam da mi se vrate. Od te odeće se teško rastajem, jer znam da ću je ponovo videti tek za desetak meseci, a to u trenutku slanja izgleda tako daleko. Do momenta kada dobijem svoju garderobu nazad, gotovo i da zaboravim na to koliko mi je teško bilo da tu konkretnu stvar pustim na prekookeanski put, ali povremeno se nađe neki komad odeće o kome sve vreme mislim, i koji ne mogu da dočekam da mi se vrati. Ovo je posebno slučaj sa garderobom koju sašijem neposredno pred slanje, pa ni ne stignem da je obučem. 

I have been working for Sew News for few years now, so I got quite used to sending and receiving mail packages. Every two months I get a parcel from the USA, but I'm more anxious about receiving some packages than the others. I am more fond of some of the articles I write than the others, and sometimes I can't wait to get back some of the garments I made for the magazine. I have difficulties parting of these clothes, as I know it will be ten months until I see them again, which looks like a long time at the moment I'm sending them away. By the time I get back my garments, I almost forget how hard it was for me to send them to an overseas trip, but from time to time I make a garment that I think of all the time, and which I can't wait to receive back. This happens usually with the clothes I make just before mailing it, so I don't have an opportunity to wear it not even once.

Poslednji paket koji sam dobila nosio je u sebi moj žuto-zeleni kaput, kao i novo izdanje Sew News magazina, za Decembar 2013 - Januar 2014. Ovaj kaputić (zapravo, to je više mantil, budući da je napravljen od kepera) sam napravila početkom godine, nakon poduže meditacije o kroju. Sličan kaput sam videla u prodavnici pre par godina, a privukla me je neobična asimetrična kragna koja se može aranžirati na više načina, kao i rajsferšlus zakopčavanje. 

The last package I got contained my yellow and olive colourblocked coat, along with a new issue of Sew News, for December 2013 - January 2014. I made this coat (it's more of  a trench coat, since it's made of cotton twill) at the beginning of this year, after having a long and systematic brainstorming about it. I saw a similar coat in a store few years ago, and an unusual asymmetric collar that can be worn in various ways as well as the zipper closure drawn me to it.

U momentu kada sam ga videla, nisam bila potpuno sigurna da znam kako da napravim kroj za njega, pa sam ga brže-bolje skicirala po sećanju, trudeći se da zabeležim sve detalje što bolje. Mantil je čekao neko drugo vreme da bude napravljen, vreme kada ću znati kako da izmodelujem kroj za njega. Nije li to sjajno kod učenja - konstantno ste svedok sopstvenog napretka! Još ako se bavite ovako kreativnim i opipljivim hobijem, vaše kreacije su tu kao dokaz lične evolucije. Nije loše ni imati slike i blog koji dokumentuju ceo postupak i vaše misli iz vremena kada je konkretna kreacija nastala. 

I didn't quite know how to draft a pattern for the coat at the time, so I rushed home to sketch it, trying to draw all the details as accurate as possible. The coat waited some other time to be made, the time when I would know how to draft the pattern. Isn't this great about learning - you're constantly a witness of your own progress! And if your hobby and tangible as sewing is, your creations are there to testify your personal evolution. Having pictures and a blog also comes handy to document the process and your thoughts from the time the creation was made.

Kao po običaju, evo kako mantil izgleda na meni. Ova slika vernije dočarava boje kaputa od slike iz magazina - gornja ima prenaglašen kontrast, koji sam bezuspešno pokušavala da ublažim. U svakom slučaju, moraću još koji mesec da pričekam pre nego što ponovo obučem mantil, jer je trenutno previše hladno za njega. A tada, obećavam vam dosta slika kojima ću pokazati različite načine na koje se može aranžirati kragna. 

As per usual, here's how the coat looks on me. The picture shows the colors more accurately than the one from the magazine - the later one has a heavy contrast that I couldn't tame down. Anyways, I'll have to wait for a few more months to wear the coat, as it's too cold for it now. I promise I'll post a lot of pictures then, which will demonstrate various ways the collar can be arranged.

Dugo se nismo gledali / Long time no see

Davno je bilo kada sam postavila svoju sliku na blog, možda ste do sada zaboravili kako izgledam :-). Kada sam upisala TR kurs, nisam imala mnogo vremena da dodatno šijem. Radila sam na haljini sa zmijskim printom, i završila je, davno, ali nisam imala prilike da je uslikam. Kada se kurs završio, požurila sam da dovršim započeto, pa sam sinoć napravila poslenje šavove na kaputu o kom sam pisala ranije. Zapravo, to je više mantil nego kaput, budući da je od pamučnog kepera. Još uvek je hladno za šetkanje u mantilićima, pa sam se uslikala ispred svoje zgrade i brže-bolje vratila nazad u stan, da se zgrejem. Kaput mi se mnogo dopada. Jedina korekcija koju bih bih uradila je da produžim rukave za otprilike 2 cm, jer su mi za nijansu kraći od optimalne dužine. Uz kaput sam obukla i pomenutu haljinu, da vam pokažem da sam je završila i da veoma lepo izgleda. Nisam se usudila da skinem mantil po zimi, tako da ćete samo delimično moći da je vidite, ali biće još prilike.

It's been a long time since I last posted a photo of me on the blog, you might have forgotten how I looked :-). When I enrolled the TR Masterclass I didn't have much time for additional sewing. I did work on the snake print dress, and actually finished it, but I didn't have the time to snap some photos of it.When the course ended, I hurried to finish the started, and last night I made the final stitches on the coat I wrote about before. It's more a trench coat than a coat since it's made of cotton twill. Still being too cold to go out in a light trench, I quickly snapped a few photos in front of my building and hurried back home to warm. I really like the coat. The only thing I wish I had done different relates to sleeves length, it would have been better if they were 2cm longer. I wore the snake print dress under the coat, to show you it's finished and it looks good. I didn't dare to take off the coat on this weather, so you'll see just a part of it.

  

Novi kaputić na pomolu / A new coat, work in progress

Htela sam da vam pokažem na čemu radim trenutno. U pitanju je kaputić / mantil koji je manje - više kopija kaputa koji sam pre par godina videla u jednoj prodavnici. Oduševila sam se modelom, ali ne i cenom, tada, i od onda planiram da sašijem svoju verziju. Kaput je vrlo zanimljivog kroja, koji krasi velika asimetrična kragna. Skircirala sam ga kod kuće, po sećanju, da ne bih zaboravila detalje. Crtež nije idealan, skica u sredini ima očigledan problem, jer leva i desna strana nikako ne mogu biti simetrične, no dobro.

I wanted to show you what I'm working on at the moment. It's a coat / trench which I more or less copied from a coat I saw in a store a few years ago. I loved the shape of it, but didn't like the price, and ever since I've been thinking of making my own version of it. The coat has a very interesting seaming, and is adorned by a big asymmetrical collar. I made a sketch of it at home, drawing all the details I could remember. The drawing isn't ideal, the sketch in the middle has an obvious problem, since the left and right sides can not be symmetrical, but I don't care much about it.

Originalna ideja je bila da napravim zimski kaput, od divne kobaltno plave vune koje imam. Međutim, biću krajnje iskrena, od kako sam shvatila da sve vreme forsiram pogrešne boje u garderobi, zaključila sam da kobaltno pava nije dobra ideja. Žuto - maslinastu kombinaciju sam sasvim slučajno izabrala, kao i mnoge kombinacije u poslednje vreme: materijali su se našli jedan pored drugog, i meni se upalila lampica. Inače, žuti materijal sam dobila od prijateljice pre par godina, i odložila ga sa strane, za neki test kroj, jer mi se boja nije dopala. Sada, što ga više gledam, sve više mi se sviđa. Žuti materijal je fin pamučni keper, dok je maslinasti pamuk sa elastinom. Otprilike su iste debljine i čvrstine, što je veoma zgodno. Ipak, sve delove sam ojačala lepljivim platnom srednje debljine, jer sam želela da kaputić lepo drži formu. Gornju kragnu sam učvrstila sa dva sloja flizelina.

Evo kako izgleda kaputić. Rukavi i kragna su pričvršćeni špenadlama, a džepovi još uvek nisu prišiveni, samo je paspuliran otvor džepa, ali već vidim da će super izgledati. 

The initial idea was to make a winter coat, using a gorgeous cobalt blue wool I have. However, I'll be quite honest, once I realized I've been using wrong colors for clothing, I figured the cobalt blue wasn't the best idea. The yellow - olive combo came to me spontaneously, as many other combinations I've been choosing recently: the fabrics stood next to each other and I had an AHA moment. Just so you know, the yellow fabric was a gift from a friend, that I put aside to use for testing patterns, as I didn't like the color. Now, the more I look at it, the more I like it. It's a nice cotton twill, and the olive fabric is a cotton with some elastin in it. The two have approximately same thickness and sturdiness, which was really convenient. However, I fused all the pieces with a medium weight interfacing, since I wanted a coat that has a shape. The top collar was fused with two layers of interfacing.

And here's how it looks. Sleeves and collar are just pinned to the body, and the pockets aren't sewed yet, I've only done the welt part of them, but I can see it will look great when finished.

Kao osnov za kaput koristila sam kroj Burde 10/2005, #116. Ovaj model sam već koristila za dva kaputa: S kaput i roze kaput sa velikom kragnom, tako da je već isproban, svi problemi na njemu su korigovani i znam da mi dobro stoji. Kako je to zgodno! Ovaj put sam najviše posla imala oko kragne i prednjeg dela, koji su asimetrični, ali sam uživala u procesu. Nadam se da ću uskoro završiti rad, i pokazati vam kako izgleda na meni.

I used the BWOF 10/2005, #116 coat pattern as a base. I've used this pattern already for two coats: the S coat and the pink coat with an oversized collar, which means it's been tried and trued, and I know it fits me nice. How convenient! This time I had to draft a collar and to work on the front panels, because these parts were asymmetrical, but I enjoyed the process. I hope I'll finish working on this coat soon, and show you how it looks one me.

Novo izdanje Sew News časopisa (Decembar 2012.- Januar 2013.) / A new issue of Sew News magazine (December 2012 - January 2013)

Mislim da je vreme da serijal postova o TR Masterklasu prošaram i nekim drugim temama. 

Pre neki dan sam dobila Decembarsko - Januarsko izdanje Sew News časopisa za 2012. / 2013. godinu, u kome je objavljen moj omiljeni S kaput, koji sam šila početkom prošle godine. Kaput je jednostavnog oblika i neobičnog kroja, sa šavovima u obliku latiničnog slova "S". Šavovi su naglašeni paspulom u šavu u kontrastnoj boji. Pored specifičnog kroja, kaput krase i paspulirane rupice za dugmad, obrađene istom keder trakom kao i ostatak kaputa. Naravno, tu su i dugmići u boji paspula, koji daju kaputu vrlo elegantan izgled.

I think it's about time to interrupt my TR Masterclass series with other topics.

I received the December - January 2012 / 2013 issue of Sew News magazine a few days ago. The issue features my favorite S coat, that I sewed at the beginning of the last year. The coat has a simple shape and an unusual cut, with seams shaped like the letter "S". The seams are accentuated with a piping in a contrasting color. Besides the unusual cut, the coat is enhanced with bound buttonholes, emphasized by the same piping cord as the rest of the coat. The buttons in a matching color give the coat quite elegant look.

A evo kaputa na meni. Ne mogu da vam opišem koliko sam željno čekala da dobijem nazad svoje čedo :). Na žalost, moraću da sačekam da se lokalna snežna oluja smiri, a temperatura pređe u plus, da bih ga nosila.

And here's the coat on me. I can't describe enough how impatient I was to get my precious back :). Unfortunately, I'll have to wait until the local snow storm calms down, and the temperature reaches values above zero to wear it.

Sew News časopis za Oktobar - Novembar 2012. / Sew News magazine for October - November 2012

Pre neki dan sam se obradovala kada sam kod kuće zatekla pošiljku sa novim izdanjem Sew News magazina, za Oktobar / Novembar 2012., u kome je objavljen kaput koji sam šila prošle godine. Kaput je klasičnog kroja, sa velikom četvrtastom kragnom koja ima dekorativne šavove. Članak u suštini opisuje kako se pravi kroj za ovakvu vrstu kragne. 

A few days ago I was pleasantly surprised when I received a package with a new issue of Sew News magazine, for October / November 2012, which features the coat I sewed last year. The coat has a classic lines, but has an over-sized squared collar with decorative topstitching. The article describes how to make a pattern for this type of collar.

I, po običaju, da vas podsetim kako kaput izgleda na meni. Sad gotovo da jedva čekam da zahladi pa da mogu ponovo da ga nosim!

As per usual, here's a reminder of how the coat looked on me. I almost wish the weather would cool down a bit so I could wear the coat again!

Roze kaput sa velikom kragnom, deo 5 / Pink coat with an oversized collar, part 5

Roze kaput je gotov, i ovih dana sam uživala šetkajući se ulicama u njemu. Ne znam kako vi, ali ja jako volim jarke boje. Verujem da mi dobro stoje, a sem toga, ubeđena sam da mi podižu raspoloženje tokom tmurnih dana. Zato sam ubeđena da će ovaj kaput biti i te kako nošen.

The pink coat is done and I've been enjoying wearing it these days. I don't know about you, but I really like bright colors. I believe I look good in them, and beside that I'm convinced they cheer me up on  dark, rainy, days. Hence I believe this coat will be a staple in my wardrobe.

 

Detalj sa štepovima na kragni.

A detail with top stitching on the collar.

 http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2012/01/roze-kaput-sa-velikom-kragnom-deo-4.html

http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2012/01/roze-kaput-sa-velikom-kragnom-deo-3.html

http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2012/01/roze-kaput-sa-velikom-kragnom-deo-2.html

http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2012/01/roze-kapput-sa-velikom-kragnom-deo-1.html

Roze kaput sa velikom kragnom, deo 4 / Pink coat with an oversized collar, part 4

Sinoć sam još malo radila na kaputu. Prišila sam rukave na postavu, i završila prednje delove. Evo u kakvom je stanju trenutno (primetite da je prednji deo samo špenadlama pričvršćen za postavu, zato izgleda ovako čudno). 

I managed to work on the coat last night. I sewed the sleeves to the lining and finished the front panels. Here's how it looks now (please note that the front part is fixed to the lining with pins, thus the weird look).

Detalj na prednjem delu su džepovi u šavu, sa kapnom. Evo kratkih instrukcija kako sam ih šila. Nalepila sam lepljivo platno na naličje kapne i prepeglala materijal uzduž, napravivši ivicu. Zatim sam naslonila lice na lice kapne i prošila bočne ivice. Otsekla sam ćoškove dodataka za šavove, kako bih smanjila debljinu platna na tom delu kapne. Takođe, jedan sloj dodataka za opšivke sam otsekla tik uz šav, kako bi debljina tkaninke postepeno opadala od sava ka unutra. Prevrnula sam kapne na lice i prepeglala bočne šavove. Nakon toga sam dodala dekorativne štepove.

Pockets in seam, with flaps make an interesting detail on the coat. Here are brief instructions on how I made them. I fused an interfacing to the wrong side of the flap and pressed the flap, thus making a sharp edge. Then I pinned the sides of the flap, with right sides together and made a stitch. I cut off the SAs corners, in order to reduce the bulk. I also grades the SAs. I turned the flaps inside out and pressed them well. Then I topstitched them.

Džepovi u šavu se šiju pre nego što su spojeni prednji delovi kaputa. Na prednji srednji panel sam postavila kapnu, i poravnala neobrađene ivice. Pri tom sam vodila računa sa se bočne ivice kapne poklope sa markerima džepa na kaputu. Zatim sam preko kapne postavila panel džepa, i opet poravnala ivice. Prišila sam delove, praveći šav od markera do markera džepa. 

In seam pockets are sewed in before sewing the front coat panels. I laid out the pocket flap on the center front panel, and aligned the raw edges. I aligned the flap's edges with the pocket notches on the panel. Then I laid out the pocket over the flap, aligning the raw edges again. I sewed the pieces together, making the stitch from one pocket notch to the other.

Sličan postupak sam ponovila i na prednjem bočnom panelu, sa izuzetkom kapne za džep. Zatim sam džep prepeglala u stranu.

I repeated the process on the side front panel, minus the pocket flap After that, I pressed the pocket to the side.

Nakon ovih koraka, usledilo je šivenje prednjih delova. Bočni panel sam položila preko srednjeg, vodeći računa da su markeri džepa na panelima savršeno poravnati. Zatim sam panele spojila, zaustavljajući šav tik uz marker džepa. Nakon toga sam gornji i donji džep pričvrstila zajedno špenadlama, i proštepala ih.

After these steps I sewed the front panels together. I laid the side panel over the center panel, making sure the pocket notches were perfectly aligned. Then I sewed the panels, stopping the stitch at the pocket notch. After that I fixed together the top and bottom pockets and sewed them.

Džepove volim dodatno da ojačam, jer se tokom nošenja kaputa dosta habaju. Zbog toga su džepovi jedini delovi koje obrađujem cik cak bodom. Takođe, ojačavam ih i tako što šav džepa dva puta prošijem jedan preko drugog. Time se osiguravam da se džep neće oparati, a postava izresati.

I like enforcing the pockets a bit more, since they can wear down. Therefore, they're the only part of the lining I serge. Also, I enforce them by sewing twice along the seamline. This way, I ensure the pocket seam will not rip off and the lining fray out.

I, konačno, sledi prepeglavanje šavova. Kako bi džep lepo legao, volim da zasečem dodatke za šavove u liniji markera za džep, sa obe strane prednjeg dela kaputa. Na žalost, zaboravila sam da uslikam naredni korak - kako bih smanjila debljinu tkanine, otsekla sam dodatak za šavove kapne džepa, i zatim sam kaput prepeglala i sa lica, raspeglavši šav između kapne i prednjeg srednjeg panela.

The final step is pressing the seams. In order to make the pocket lay smoothly, I like cutting the SAs where pocket notches are placed, on both sides of the seam. Unfortunately, I forgot to take a picture of the next step - in order to reduce bulk, I cut off the pocket flap's SAs, and then I pressed the pieces from the right side of the fabric, thus pressing the seam between the pocket flap and center front panel.

http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2012/01/roze-kaput-sa-velikom-kragnom-deo-3.html

http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2012/01/roze-kaput-sa-velikom-kragnom-deo-2.html

http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2012/01/roze-kapput-sa-velikom-kragnom-deo-1.html

Roze kaput sa velikom kragnom, deo 3 / Pink coat with an oversized collar, part 3

Kratak izveštaj o mom napretku na kaputu. Pošto još uvek nemam konac u adekvatnoj boji, rešila sam da prvo radim na postavi kaputa. Evo kako izgleda - i rukavi su gotovi, ali nisam stigla da ih prišijem. Pored postave, spojila sam i zadnje delove kaputa, kao i delove rukava, tako da sam za danas dosta odradila, rekla bih.

A short update on the coat progress. Since I don't have a thread in the right color yet, I've decided to work on the lining first. Here's how it looks - the sleeves are finished, too, but I didn't have enough time to attach them. Beside the lining, I sewed together the back coat pieces and the sleeves, so I think I've done enough today.

http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2012/01/roze-kaput-sa-velikom-kragnom-deo-2.html

http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2012/01/roze-kapput-sa-velikom-kragnom-deo-1.html

Roze kaput sa velikom kragnom, deo 2 / Pink coat with an oversized collar, part 2

Danas sam nastavila da radim na roze kaputu. Nalepila sam lepljivo platno na sledeće delove:

• Prednji srednji panel sa kragnom
• Prednji opšivak sa kragnom
• Porub prednjih i zadnjih panela, kao i na porub gornjih i donjih rukava, u širini od 5cm
• Otvor rukava na prednjem i zadnjem bočnom panelu
• Zadnji opšivak

Today I've continued working on the pink coat. I interfaced the following pieces with the medium weight fusible interfacing:

• Center front panel with collar
• Front facing with collar
• Hemline on front and back panels, as well as hemline of top and bottom sleeves, 5cm wide
• Armhole on front and back side panels\
• Back facing

Odlučila sam se da kombinujem lepljivo platno srednje debljine i platno od konjske dlake na predelu kragne. Iskrojila sam 2 simetrična dela kragne od platna od konjske dlake, bez dodataka za šavove. Delove sam spojila duž centralnog zadnjeg šava, koristeći cik cak bod na mašini. Takođe, obradila sam ivice cik cak bodom, jer se ovo platno veoma lako para. Na platnu sam flomasterom iscrtala mrežu, koja kao šablon služi kako bih uredno rukom prišivala platno za kragnu kaputa. 

Takođe, prednje srednje panele sam prišila jedan za drugi, duž šava kragne, a zatim sam šavove raspeglala i odsekla vrhove dodataka za šavove, kako bih smanjila debljinu platna na ivicama. Na prednjim panelima sam označila icive kragne, kako bih znala gde tačno treba da nacentriram platno od konjske dlake.

I decided to combine medium weight fusible interfacing with horsehair canvas on collar. I cut 2 symmetrical collar pieces out of horsehair canvas, without adding SAs. I joined the pieces along the center back seam using a zick zack stitch on my machine. Also, I serged the edges, since the canvas frays like crazy. I drew a grid on the canvas, that helped me hand baste the canvas neatly.

Also, I sewed together the center front panels along the collar seam and pressed the seams open. I cut off SAs' corners in order to reduce bulk. I marked the collar's edged on the shell fabric, so I's know where to lay the horsehair canvas.

Zatim sam platno od konjske dlake postavila na kragnu i poravnala ga sa označenim linijana. Kao što vidite, na nekim delovima se delovi nisu potpuno poklopili, pa sam na konjskom platnu označila potrebne korekcije, koje sam izvršila tek kada je platno potpuno bilo prišiveno za kragnu. Platno sam prvo špenadlama pričvrstila za kragnu, a zatim sam uzdužnim i poprečnim fircanjem osigurala da se platno ne pomera duž kragne.

I laid the canvas on the collar and aligned it with the marked lines. As you can see, some parts didn't match well at first, so I marked corrections on the horsehair canvas. However, I cut off the extra fabric after the hand basting was done. I fixed the canvas to the collar using pins, and then I roughly basted it to the collar with horizontal and vertical lines, thus securing the canvas from moving over the collar.

Bodom riblje kosti sam prišila platno za kragnu, vodeći računa da se konac ne vidi sa lica kragne. Kao što vidite na slici, nisam šila do same ivice platna duž bočnih i gornjih ivica, već sam se zaustavljala na otprilike 1.5cm od njih.

Using the chevron stitch I sewed the horsehair canvas to the collar, making sure the stitch wasn't visible on the right side of the shell. As you can see on the picture, I left the side and top edges of the canvas unsewn - I stopped sewing approximately 1.5cm from them.

Zatim sam htela da korigujem dubinu kragne. Za to sam postavila opšivak preko kragne, i poravnala sve ivice. Delove sam pričvrstila špenadlama.

After that I wanted to correct the collar's width. To do that, I laid the facing over the collar and aligned the edges. I pinned the pieces together.

A onda sam presavila kragnu duž linije pregiba, tako da je opšivak stajao na vrhu a kragna ispod njega. Kao što vidite, donji sloj, tj. kragna je malo šira od opšivka u ovom položaju (a to je položaj u kom će kragna stajati na gotovom kaputu). Više o ovoj tehnici možete pročitati na Šerinom blogu.

Then I folded the collar over the fold line, keeping the facing on the top and collar on the bottom. As you can see, the lower layer is slightly wider than the facing, when put in this position (and this is the position the collar will be in once the coat is finished). You can find more information about this technique on Sherry's blog.

Označila sam razliku na kragni i suzila je koliko je bilo potrebno. Nakon toga sam suzila i platno od konjske dlake, ostavljajući dodatke za šavove široke 1.5cm. Ručnim cik cak bodom sam prišila ivice konjskog platna za kragnu.

I marked the difference on the collar and narrowed it down. After that I narrowed down the horsehair canvas, leaving the 1.5cm vide SAs. I finished up the edges hand sewing the zick zack stitcth.

http://stepalica.blogspot.com/2012/01/roze-kapput-sa-velikom-kragnom-deo-1.html

Roze kaput sa velikom kragnom, deo 1 / Pink coat with an oversized collar, part 1

Posle mesec dana odmaranja, vreme je da se nešto i sašije. Trenutno radim na kaputu, čiju skicu sam već pokazivala na blogu. U pitanju je varijacija koju sam slala za Burda Style knjigu. Ipak, ne koristim kroj iz knjige kao osnov, već isprobani model, na kome samo treba da docrtam kragnu.

After taking a one month break from sewing, it's time to make something new. I'm working on a coat, whose sketch I posted on the blog before. It's a coat variation I sent to Burda Style for their Sewing Handbook. However, I'm not using the pattern from the book - instead, I'm using a tried and trued model on which I only have to draw a collar.

Evo kako test kroj izgleda (i evo koliko umorno ja izgledam u bež tonovima). Kaput će, naravno, biti duži - dužine malo ispod kolena. Jako sam zadovoljna kako je kragna ispala. Još moram da razmislim o tome kako ću šiti kaput - da li da koristim ojačanje od konjske dlake, ili samo lepljivo platno, ili oba. 

Here's how the muslin looks (and here's how washed and tired I look in nude tones). The coat will be longer - somewhere bellow the knees. I'm very pleased with how the collar looks. I still have to think about how I'm gonna sew this coat - whether I should use a horsehair canvas or just a fusible interfacing, or both of them.

A evo i materijala: prelepa vuna u boji fuksije, u kojoj izgledam mnogo zdravije i odmornije, odgovarajuća postava i lepi, prozirni dugmići.

And here's the fabric: a gorgeous wool in fuchsia color, in which I look much healthier; the lining and nice transparent buttons.

Do sada sam isekla vunu, ostaje mi još da iskrojim postavu i lepljivo platno, i da ga zalepim na tkaninu - moj najomraženiji deo posla :)

So far, I've cut the wool. I still have to cut the lining and the interfacing, and then to fuse it to the fabric - the least interesting part of the work :)