Šivenje manžetne rukava na bluzi / Sewing a sleeve cuff on a blouse

Evo još jednog, kratkog tutorijala, kojim ćemo kompletirati priču o šlicu na rukavu bluze. Kada je šlic obrađen, rukav treba prošiti duž bočnih šavova, tako da formira "cilindar".

Kroj za manžetne je u osnovi pravougaonik (koji može imati blage varijacije, zavisno od detalja - na primer, zaobljene ivice), par santimerata širi od obima ručnog zgloba, i duplo duži od potrebne dužine gotove manžetne. Pošto sam za lice manžetne koristila nafaltani materijal, ja sam svoje manžetne spajala od dva materijala. Flizelin nalepiti na naličje materijala, i to na onaj deo manžetne koji će biti na licu košulje - u mom slučaju, na nafaltani deo.

Here's another short tutorial, which will complete the story about the sleeve slit on a blouse. Once the slit is finished, the sleeve should be sewn along the side seams, so that it forms a tube.

The sleeve cuffs' pattern is a rectangle (which could have some slight variations, depending on details - for example, rounded ends), that's a few centimeters wider than the circumference of your wrist, and twice as long as the finished cuff. Since I used the fabric with pintucks for the upper layer of the cuffs, I joined two fabrics to get the basis of the cuff. I fused the interfacing to the wrong side of the fabric, to the upper cuff's layer.

Saviti manžetnu na pola po dužini, pa prošiti bočne šavove. Stanjite dodatke za šavove na oko 5 mm. Izvrnite manžetne na lice i prepeglajte ih dobro.

Fold the cuff along it's length and sew the side seam. Cut off the SAs. Flip the cuffs inside out and press them well.

Kada prišivate manžetnu, najpre prišijte donji, unutrašnji sloj, za rukav - postavite lice materijala manžetne na naličje rukava. Najpre poravnajte ivice manžetne i šlica rukava, pa zatim i ostatak dužine. Primetite da je obim rukava širi od manžetne, pa je potrebno napraviti faltu na rukavu, prateći oznake na kroju.

Kada ste prišili donji sloj manžetne, prepeglajte materijal, peglajući sa naličja rukava, a u smeru od rukava ka manžetni, tako da se prošiveni šav potpuno ispresuje.

When attaching the cuff to the sleeve, sew the lower cuff's layer to the sleeve first - place the right side of the cuff to the wrong side of the sleeve. Align the cuff's ends with the sleeve slit's ends first and then align the rest of the length. Note that circumference of the sleeve is greater than the cuff's width, so make a pleat on the sleeve, following the pleat notches on the sleeve pattern.

Once the lower layer of the cuff is attached, press the sleeve, ironing in a direction from the sleeve towards the sleeve cuff.

Sada pažljivo presavijte spoljni sloj manžetne na unutra, tako da pregib prekriva prethodno napravljen šav. Špenadlama pričvrstite slojeve materijala. Opet, prilikom rada, krenite prvo od ivica šlica rukava, pa se pomerajte ka sredini.

Proštepajte manžetnu, vodeći štep tik uz ivicu pregiba tkanine. Prepeglajte manžetnu i rukav još jednom.

Carefully fold the upper layer of the cuff inwards, so that the fold line covers the previously made stitch. Pin the fabrics in place. Again, when working, start from the cuff's ends and continue towards the center.

Topstitch the cuff by stitching as close as possible to the fold line. Press the sleeve and the cuff once again.

Sada je rukav spreman da se spoji sa ostatkom košulje.

The sleeves are now ready to be sewn to the bodice of the blouse.

Kako obraditi šlic na rukavu bluze / How to finish a sleeve slit on a blouse

Danas ću vam pokazati kako se obrađuje šlic na rukavu bluze. Ovaj tutorijal nije novina u svetu krojaških blogera, ali ni jedan nisam imala prilike da vidim na sprskom jeziku, pa pomislih kako ne bi bilo na odmet da napišem instrukcije.

I'll show you how to finish a sleeve slit on a blouse. The technique is not a novelty in the sewing blogosphere, but I haven't had a chance to see any similar tutorials written in Serbian, so I thought it wouldn't hurt to write down the instructions.

Dakle, obeležite šlic na rukavu, premerite ga i iskrojte trakicu sledećih dimenzija:

• širina: 4 cm
• dužina: dužina šlica x 2 + 2-3 cm

Traku možete iskrojiti paralelno sa pravcem tkanja matarijala, ili pod uglom od 45 stepeni. Ako koristite prugasti materijal, kosa traka će imati veoma zanimljiv efekat.

So, mark the slit line on the sleeve. Measure the slit and cut a strip of fabric with the following dimensions:

• width: 4 cm
• length: slit lengthx 2 + 2-3 cm

You can cut the strip on straight grain or on bias. If you're using a striped fabric, a bias cut strip would add some drama to your shirt.

Isecite šlic duž iscrtane linije, pa se zaustavite na oko 5 mm od temena duži. Odatle secnite materijal dijagonalno ka temenima oznake šlica, vodeći računa da ne prosečete tkaninu dalje od krajnjih tačaka.

Cut the slit along the marked line, stopping the cutting approximately 5 mm away from the end of the line. Make diagonal cuts towards the endpoints of the slit, making sure you don't cut further from these points.

Postavite lice trakice na naličje rukava, poravnavajući njenu ivicu sa ivicom šlica. Pričvrstite tkanine špenadlama.

Lay the right side of the strip along the wrong side of the sleeve, aligning the raw edges. Pin the fabrics in place.

Otvorite šlic tako da formira pravu liniju, pa poravnajte ivice materijala celom dužinom. Proštepajte slojeve zajedno, vodeći računa da šav prolazi tik uz ćoškove šlica.

Open the slit so that it forms a straight line, and align it with the strip along it's length. Sew the fabrics together, making sure you sew next to the slit's endpoints.

Savijte slobodnu ivicu trakice na unutra, paveći pregib na 5 mm od ivice. Prepeglajte pregib. Prošivenu ivicu trakice prepeglajte tako da je šav lepo ispresovan.

Fold the free edge of the strip by 5 mm and press the fold line. Press to the side the sewed edge of the slit.

Savijte trakicu preko lica rukava, tako da pregib slobodne ivice prekriva prethodno napravljen štep. Pričvrstite slojeve materijala šenadlama.

Fold the strip over the right side of the fabric, so that the strip covers the previously made stitch. Pin the layers together.

Proštepajte duž slobodne ivice trakice, postavljajući štep tik uz ivicu pregiba.

Topstitch the strip, sewing right next to the fold line.

Otsecite krajeve trakice koji štrče sa rukava. 

Spojte i poravnajte ivice šlica, postavljajući lice ka licu, pa napravite dijagonalni štep, koji spaja teme šlica sa ivicama.

Cut off the extra fabric from the strip.

Align the sleeve legs together, placing them with right sides together. Make a diagonal stitch, connecting the end point of the slit with its edge lines.

Preklopite delove rukava kao što je prikazano na slici, pa ga preleglajte.. Sada možete da spojite bočne šavove rukava, a potom i da prišijete manžetnu.

Lay the sleeve as shown on the picture and press it well. Your sleeve is now ready for sewing it along the side seams and for attaching a sleeve cuff.