"S" kaput, deo 2 / The "S" coat, part 2

Dakle, osnova za kaput je kroj sa princes šavovima koji idu do ramena. Krojni delovi nemaju dodatke za šavove.

As I wrote before, the basis for this coat is a pattern with shoulder princess seams. The pattern pieces do not have seam allowances included.

Počinjem sa prednjim delom. Postavila sam srednji i bočni prednji panel kao što je prikazano na slici: linije poruba su poravnate, a sami paneli se oslanjaju jedan na drugi koliko god je moguće. Panele sam spojila selotejpom duž vertikalnih ivica koje dele. Na bočnom panelu sam iscrtala horizontalnu liniju, u visini gde sam želela da mi stoji džep. Zatim sam, koristeći okrugli podmetač za čaše, iscrtala kružnu liniju na uglu horizontalne linije džepa i vertikalne linije centralnog šava.

I'm starting with front pieces. I laid out the central and the side panels as displayed on the picture: the hem lines are aligned and the panels are positioned as close to each other as possible. I fixed the panels together  along the vertical lines using a cello tape. I drew a horizontal line on the side panel, positioning it where I wanted to draft a pocket. Then I curved one side of the line, using a round coaster.

Zatim sam bočni panel isekla duž iscrtane linije.

Primetićete da bočni panel ne stoji tik uz centralni panel pri vrhu džepa. Zato sam morala da napravim još jednu manju izmenu. Iscrtala sam horizontalnu liniju na bočnom panelu, u visini gde paneli počinju da se razdvajaju.

After that, I cut the side panel along the drawn curve.

You can note that the central and side panels aren't aligned well at the top of the pocket - there is a small vertical dart separating the pieces. So I had to make a minor alteration. I drew a horizontal line on the side panel, positioning it at the apex of the vertical dart.

Presekla sam bočni panel duž te linije i zarotirala gornji deo ka centralnom panelu, kako bih zatvorila formiranu brusnu. To je napravilo novu, horiyontalnu brusnu na bočnom panelu. Brusnu sam zatvorila, umetnuvši komad papira ispod nje. Zatim sam malo korigovala liniju džepa - spustila sam bočni kraj džepa za 1cm, koliko je bila širina novonastale horizontalne brusne. Na slici vidite originalnu liniju džepa, kao i liniju korekcije, pre nego što sam odsekla višak.

I cut the side panel along the horizontal line and I rotated the top of the pocket towards the central panel, thus closing the vertical dart. This caused forming another, horizontal dart on the side panel. I closed the horizontal dart with a piece of paper. Then I altered a bit the pocket line - I lowered the lateral side of the pocket by 1cm (by the width of the previously closed horizontal dart). You can see on the picture both the original and altered pocket line. Then I cut off the extra height of the pocket.

Prelazim na gornji deo. Postavila sam centralni i bočni panel u položaj prikazan na slici: rameni delovi formiraju kontinuiranu liniju, a krojni paneli su priljibljeni jedan uz drugi što je moguće više. Opet, spojila sam krojne delove selotejpom. Zatim sam ponovila postupak: iscrtala sam na centralnom delu horizontalnu liniju u visini grudi, zakrivila sam liniju pomoću podmetača za čaše, i presekla centralni panel duž iscrtane krive.

Now it's time to alter the top parts of the pattern. I laid out the central and the side panels as displayed on the picture: shoulder lines are aligned and panels are positioned as close to each other as possible. Again, I fixed the pieces together using the cello tape. I repeated the previously described steps: I drew a horizontal line over the bust, curved one side of the line and cut the central panel along the curve.

Centralni i bočni panel se razdvajaju na jednom delu, pa sam napravila još jednu korekciju da bih zatvorila ovu brusnu. Iscrtala sam horizontalnu liniju na centralnom panelu, u visini gde počinje razdvajanje centralnog i bočnog krojnog dela. Presekla sam centralni panel duž te linije i zarotirala donji odsečak prema bočnom panelu, zatvarajući brusnu koja ih je razdvajala. Novonastalu horizontalnu brusnu sam zatvorila komadom papira.

The central and the side panels form a dart at some point, so I made another alteration to close the dart. I drew a horizontal line on the central panel, where the dart apex is positioned. I sliced the central piece along the horizontal line and I rotated the lower cutout towards the side panel thus closing the dart. I closed the horizontal dart using a piece of paper.

Zatim sam korigovala zakrivljenu liniju: pomerila sam jedan kraj uvis, za 2.5cm, koliko je bila široka horizontalna brusna. Na slici ispod vidite originalnu i korigovanu liniju.

Then I altered the curve: I shifted up the point by 2.5cm (by the width of the horizontal dart). You can see the original curve and the altered one. Later I cut the extra length from the central piece.

Nakon svih ovih izmena, evo kako izgledaju prednji krojni delovi. Na gornjem krojnom delu, linija tkanja se poklapa sa linijom tkanja bočnog panela, dok se na donjem krojnom delu linija tkanja poklapa sa linijom tkanja centralnog panela.

This is how the pattern pieces look like after all these alterations. The straight grain line matches with the side panel on the top piece, while the straight grain line matches with the central panel on the bottom piece.

U sledećem postu opisaću kako sam izmenila zadnje delove kroja, mada je postupak gotovo isti kao i za prednje delove, sa par manjih razlika.

I'll explain in the next post how I altered the back pieces, though the process is almost identical to the one described above, with few minor differences.