"S" kaput, deo 4 / The "S" coat, part 4

Nastavljam sa izmenama kroja, treba da iskrojim džep. Na donjem prednjem delu korja sam iscrtala oblik džepa, 15cm dubok, i oko 13cm širok. Malo sam zakrivila ćošak džepa. Zatim sam iscrtani oblik precrtala na novi list papira i iskrojila ga. Ovaj deo će biti gornji džep.

I'm continuing with pattern alterations, I should draft a pocket pattern. I drew a pocket shape on the front bottom piece. The pocket is 15cm deep, and around 13cm wide. Also, I curved a bit the corner of the pocket. Then I copied the pocket shape on a new piece of paper. This piece will be a top of the pocket.

Isti oblik sam precrtala još jednom na novi list papira i vrh džepa sam zalepila za dno gornjeg prednjeg panela kaputa. Dodati deo će biti donji džep.

I copied the same shape on another piece of paper and I glued the top of the pocket piece to the bottom of the front top pattern piece. The added piece will serve as a lower pocket.

Ideja je da rukavi kaputa imaju manžetne, koje će biti paspulirane keder trakom. Međutim, neću praviti prave manžetne, već ću samo preseći rukave na dva dela, umetnuti keder traku, i prišiti delove zajedno. Na gornjem i donjem delu rukava sam iscrtala linije paralelne sa linijom poruba, udaljene 15cm od nje.

Ove krojne delove ću koristiti i za kroj kaputa i za kroj postave. Kada budem sekla materijal za kaput, rukave ću seći iz dva dela, dok cu postavu seći iz jednog dela.

Za postavu i opšivke ću koristiti početni, princes, kroj kaputa. Kada sam šila Šanel kaput, napravila sam kroj za rusku kragnu, koji i sada planiram da upotrebim.

Večeras idem na put, na kome ću biti narendih nedelju dana. Nastaviću da pišem o kaputu kada se vratim.

I want to have sleeve cuffs on the coat, that would be accentuated with piping. However, I will not make actual sleeve cuffs; instead I'll cut the sleeves in two pieces, apply the piping cord and join the sleeve pieces back together. I drew horizontal lines on the top and bottom sleeve patterns, distanced 15cm from the sleeve hemline and parallel to the hemline.

I'll use the same sleeve pattern pieces for both the shell fabric and the lining. When cutting the fashion fabric, I'll cut the sleeves in two pieces, and keep the sleeves as one piece when cutting the lining.

I'll use the basic shoulder princess seamed pattern for the coat lining and for the facings. I have already drafted the collar pattern when I made the Faux Chanel coat, and I intend to use the same collar pattern this time.

I'm going on a trip tonight, and I'll be back in a week. I'll continue writing about the coat when I come back.