Novi članak u Sew News časopisu / New aricle in the Sew News magazine

Izašao je novi broj Sew News časopisa, kao i novi članak kolumne Pattern Play, u kome opisujem kako da napravite kroj za kariranu suknju sa faltama. Naizgled obična suknja ima na pojasu i na faltama umetke koji su ukoso sečeni, što joj daje veoma zanimljiv izgled. 

Kroj za ovu suknju možete skinuti u veličini 40 sa Download taba bloga.

A new issue of the Sew News magazine is published, along with a new Pattern Play article in which I write about the plaid skirt. A basic skirt at a first glance has a really interesting bias inserts on the waist and has bias pleat gussets.

You can download a pattern for the named skirt in size 40 from the Download tab of the blog.

Srpsko - engleski rečnik / Serbian - English dictionary

Kada sam se učlanila na BurdaStyle sajt, imala sam poteškoće da izrazim svoje misli na engleskom - ne zato što nisam dobro znala jezik (bar se nadam da je tako!), već zato što nisam dobro baratala terminologijom vezanom za šivenje. Nisam imala predstavu kako da objasnim jednostavne pojmove poput postave, paspul trake, ukrasa, linije tkanja, i sl. Iskreno govoreći, neke od krojačkih termina čak ni na maternjem srpskom ne znam, jer sam potpuno samouka i nisam imala nikoga da me nauči kako se koja stvar ili tehnika zove. Tokom vremena, upijala sam svaku informaciju o šivenju koju sam mogla da nađem. Mnogi od tekstova koje sam čitala su bili na engleskom, tako da verujem da sam do sada naučila dovoljno da umem jasno i ispravno da objasnim proces koji opisujem i sad mi je lakše da se izrazim na engleskom nego na srpskom (na primer, ovaj post sam prvo napisala na engleskom, a sada ga prevodim na srpski).
Upoznala sam dosta žena i devojaka sa ex-YU prostora koje šiju, i koje pričaju engleski, ali im je teško da čitaju i pišu instrukcije na tom jeziku. To mi je dalo ideju da napravim mali srpsko - engleski krojački rečnik. Pretpostavljam da bi ovakav rečnik bio zanimljiv jedino čitaocima sa ex-YU prostora, ali bi bilo sjajno kada bi svi pomogli da se nabroje svi termini na bilo kom od ova dva jezika. To bi mi pomoglo da skupim sve termine u jednu listu, pošto se sigurno neću sama setiti svega. Ako želite da pomognete, ostavite u komentarima ovog posta, ili mi pošaljite na mejl, sve izraze, reči, nazive pozamanterije, materijal, tkanina i sl. kojih se setite. Kada napravim rečnik, postaviću ga na Download tab bloga, u PDF formatu.
Hvala unapred!

When I first joined the BurdaStyle community I had difficulties expressing my thoughts in English - not because my English was bad (at least I hope that was the case!), but because I was completely unfamiliar with sewing-related terminology. I had no clue how to explain simple things; words like lining, bias bands, trim, grain line, yoke, etc. were completely new to me. To tell you the truth, I don't know Serbian names for many of these terms, since I learned everything by myself, and I had no one to name the techniques or notions I used. I've been absorbing all the information I could find about sewing, and many texts I read were in English. I think I've learned enough to explain the process clearly and correctly (at least, when it comes to terminology) and now I find it easier to express myself in English than in my native Serbian (for example, I'm writing this very post first in English, and I'll translate it to Serbian later). 

I've met many ex-YU sewists who speak English, but they find it difficult to read and write instructions in that language. Hence, I've come to an idea to make a small Serbian - English (or vice versa) sewing dictionary. I guess such dictionary would be helpful only to the ex-YU readers, but it would be great if everyone would help with listing sewing words in either language. This would help me gather all the terms in one place, since I can't think of them all. If you're willing to help, post all phrases, terms, notions, fabrics, etc. in comments section or send me an email. Once I make the dictionary, I'll post it on the Download page of the blog, in PDF file format.

Thank you in advance!

Odmor / Holiday

Štepalica ide na dugo iščekivani godišnji odmor, u Grčku, na Krf.

Vidimo se za dve nedelje!

Štepalica is going on a long waited vacation to Greek island Corfu.

See you guys in two weeks!

Radovi u toku / Under construction

Dragi čitaoci, u toku je rad na promeni izgleda Štepalice, nemojte se iznenaditi ako primetite neke probleme u radu. Nadam se da će uskoro sve biti sređeno cakum pakum! Štepalica ima novi izgled, zahvaljujući mojoj dragoj drugarici, koja je poradila na dizajnu. 

Dear readers, the blog is currently going through its makeover process, don't get too surprised if you notice some problems trying to access it. Hopefully, everything's gonna be set very soon! Štepalica has a new look now, thanks to my dear friend who worked on the design.

Kratko obaveštenje / A short note

Hvala vam na čestitkama i lepim rečima koje ste postavili na poslednji članak. Sjajni ste!

Htela sam da vam kažem da sam našla još nekoliko sajtova koji nude besplatne krojeve, dopisala sam ih u listu u ovom postu, pa bacite pogled ako vas zanima.

Thank you for the nice comments and congrats words you left on the last post. You're great!

I just wanted to let you know I found few more websites with free patterns. I wrote them down in the list in this post, so take a look if you're interested.

Burda Style knjiga / The Burda Style Book

Pominjala sam ranije knjigu Burda Style Book, za koju sam prošle godine šila bluzu. Reč je o knjizi koja će predstaviti 5 novih krojeva Burda Style sajta (za haljinu, kaput, bluzu, suknju i tašnu), kao i 60 varijacija pomenutih krojeva, u interpretaciji članova sajta. Bila sam veoma počastvovana pozivom od strane Burda Style tima da učestvujem u izradi knjige, i ponosna da sam se našla među 60 veoma talentovanih ljudi koji dolaze iz celog sveta.

Procedura kroz koju smo prošli je bila veoma zanimljiva. Svi učesnici su popunili upitnik gde su utvrđene preference svakog od njih, i gde je svako dobio priliku da izrazi svoju želju po pitanju kroja koji bi voleo da šije (zanimljiv detalj je da u tom tenutku nismo još znali kako originalni modeli zapravo izgledaju!). 

Nakon toga, svakom učesniku je poslat skica jednog ili dva od pomenutih pet modela, koju je trebalo iskoristiti kao osnov za dalju varijaciju. Ja sam dobila zadatak da modelujem bluzu i kaput, i iscrtala sam ukupno 5 varijacija na pomenute modele. Ideja je bila da se postojeći model iskoristi kao osnova, ali da se izmeni tako da ne predstavlja identičnu kopiju originala. Uz svaku skicu, trebalo je napisati par komentara koji detaljnije opisuju izmenjeni model, kao i dati predlog za tkaninu od koje bi se stvar šila. Na moje iznenađenje, izabrana je jedna od mojih skica za bluzu, iako su mi favoriti bile skice za kapute. 

Sledeći korak je bio najzanimljiviji: svaki učesnik je dobio kroj, kao i paket sa materijalom po izboru Burda Style tima, i šivenje je moglo da počne. Bluza koju sam ja pravila je bila blaga varijacija originalnog kroja, ali neki od učesnika su pravili poveće izmene na svojim modelima, i trebalo je da ilustruju i popišu sve izmene koje su pravili na kroju, kako bi se napravili tutorijali koji će biti objavljeni u knjizi. 

Moram da priznam da nikad nisam volela da šijem po narudžbini, i ovaj deo procesa mi je nametao neku vrstu pritiska, koji mi je na momente izazivao paniku. No, sve je prošlo kako treba, i bluza je na vreme bila završena. U euforiji koja me tih dana držala, zaboravila sam da uslikam svoju bluzu pre no što sam je poslala u Njujork, tako da ću morati da sačekam da knjiga bude objavljena da bih je ponovo videla. 

Slike sa fotografisanja za knjigu možete videti ovde.

I mentioned before the Burda Style Book, that I sewed a blouse for. The book will introduce 5 brand new Burda Style patterns (for a dress, a coat, a blouse, a skirt and a bag), along with 60 variations on the named patterns, made by the website members. I was very honored by the invitation to participate in making the book, and I was really proud to be among 60 talented people from around the world.

The procedure we've been through was very interesting. All the participants answered the query which determined the participants' sewing preferences and allowed us to express our wishes regarding the pattern we wanted to use (an interesting detail was that at the time we didn't know how the original models looked like!). 

After that, every participant received sketches of one or two models from the named list, that were used as a basis for further variation. My task was to design a blouse and a coat, so I drew 5 variations of the named models. The idea was to use an existing model as a basis, while making some alterations to it so that the variation is not an identical copy of the original. Along with every sketch, we were supposed to add a short description of the altered model, and to give a suggestion on the fabric that should be used for sewing. To my surprise, one of the blouse sketches was chosen for the book, while I preferred the ones for the coat. 

The next step was the most interesting one: every participant got a pattern and a package with fabric chosen by Burda Style team, and the sewing could start. The blouse I sewed was a slight alteration of the original pattern, however some of the participants made major alterations on their models, and they had to photograph and describe each step in order to make tutorials that will be published in the book. 

I have to admit that I never liked sewing by order, and this part of the process pushed me under pressure, causing a slight panic from time to time. Luckily, everything went well, and the blouse was sewed in time. Due to euphoria I was in at the time, I forgot to take pictures of the blouse. Hence, I'll have to wait for the book to be published in order to see the blouse again. 

You can see the pics from the photosoot for the book here.

Objavljivanje knjige je zakazano za 1. Novembar 2011. godine, a evo kako izgleda naslovna strana. Neću vam otkriti koja je moja bluza, pre no što knjiga izađe. Prve nedelje Novembra, Burda Style će u Njujorku praviti proslavu povodom objavljivanja knjige, a moj plan je da budem tamo u to vreme. 

Ako se bavite novinarstvom, ili poznajete nekoga iz branše ko bi voleo da napravi reportažu o ovom događaju, kontaktirajte me, a ja ću obezbediti novinarsku propusnicu za pomenutu proslavu.

The book publishing is scheduled for November 1st 2011, and here's how the cover page will look. I'm not gonna reveal to you which blouse is mine, before the book is published. Burda Style will make a celebration party in New York during the first week of November, and I intend to be there. 

If you're in journalism business, or if you know someone who would like to make a story about this event, contact me and I'll provide the press pass for the party.

Koliko života može da ima jedan kroj? / How many lives a pattern can have?

Pre nekog vremena sam, na nekom blogu (zaboravih koji beše), pročitala post o omiljenim krojevima, i koliko ih eksploatišemo tokom šivenja. Jedno od pitanja koje se postavilo je da li svako od nas ima svoj omiljeni kroj, i ako ga imamo, da li smo ga koristili više puta ili samo jednom. 

U mom slučaju, rekla bih da imam par omiljenih krojeva, koje mrcvarim do besvesti i menjam do neprepoznatljivosti, tako da svaka stvar napravljena po njima izgleda drugačije. Odličan primer je kroj za bluzu iz Burde 1/2008, #108. Kada sam ga prvi put videla, nisam ni sanjala da će imati bezbrojne inkarnacije i višestruke živote. Prva bluza koju sam po njemu sašila više nije u mom vlasništvu, ali je očigledno pokrenula bujicu ideja, koje se i dalje nižu. Na slici ispod sam prikazala 10 bluza (a napravila sam ih mnogo više), koje sve potiču od istog kroja. Bluze na dnu su šivene za moju mamu (dole levo možete videti da imamo identične košulje, jedina razlika je u veličini).

Postavlja se pitanje - zašto uporno menjam kroj, umesto da jednostavno izvadim novi, već pripremljen kroj iz časopisa? Zato što je ipak jednostavnije i lakše malo promeniti već isproban i korigovan kroj, nego iz početka prolaziti kroz ceo proces korigovanja i isprobavanja modela, zarad detalja koji i sama mogu lako da napravim. Manipulisanje krojem daje mnogo mogućnosti, ali i pojednostavljuje proces. 

Primera radi, rozikasta košulja sa slike (gornji desni ćošak) je inspirisana košuljom koju sam videla u italijanskom časopisu La Mia Boutique. Kada sam izvadila kroj iz magazina, bila sam pomalo skeptična i uporedila sam ga sa šnitom iz Burde. Naravno, razlika u modelima je bila očigledna. Tada sam shvatila da nabore ispod grudi - detalj koji me privukao na modelu iz LMB - mogu lako da dobijem malom izmenom na pomenutom kroju. Ostatak bluze - leđa, položaj šavova na ramenima, obim struka, dužina i sl. - je ostao nepromenjen, što znači da sam tačno znala kako će mi gotova bluza stajati. Poverenje koje imam u već isproban kroj je presudno za jednostavno, brzo i efektno šivenje. 

I've read on some blog recently (forgot which one it was) a post about favorite patterns and how much the sewists use them. One of the questions was whether every sewist had his/her favorite pattern and whether he/she had used it more than once. 

I'd say I have a few favorite patterns that I use and exploit unmercifully and alter them until they're unrecognizable, so that every new garment I make using them looks different. A great example is the blouse pattern from BWOF 1/2008, #108. I didn't think this pattern would have numerous lives and countless incarnations when I first saw it. The first blouse I made using it is no longer in my possession, but it apparently started a flow if ideas, that still keep coming. The picture above displays 10 of many more blouses I made using the named pattern. The blouses displayed on the bottom were made for my mom (you can see on the bottom left corner that we have identical blouses, the only difference is in their sizes).

The question is - why do I stubbornly alter the pattern every time, instead of tracing a new, already prepared pattern from the magazine? Because I find it far more easier to alter the tried and trued pattern a bit than to go through the whole process of fitting and truing the model, in order to get a detail I could have made myself. Pattern manipulation give numerous options and makes the whole process much easier.

For example, the pinkish shirt from the picture (top right corner) was inspired by a shirt I saw in the Italian magazine La Mia Boutique. I traced the blouse pattern but was rather skeptical, so I compared it with the BWOF pattern. The pattern differences were more than obvious. I realized then that I could have made the gathers under the bust myself - the detail that appealed to me in the first place. The rest of the blouse - the back, shoulder seams placement, waist circumference, length, etc. - stayed  unchanged, meaning that I knew exactly how the finished blouse would suit me. The trust I have in the tried and trued pattern is essential for quick and efficient sewing.

Novi outfit / A new outfit

Prošle nedelje sam bila veoma vredna i sašila tri nove stvarčice! Ovom prilikom, pokazaću vam bluzu i suknju, koje sam zamislila da nosim u kombinaciji. 

Bluza je varijacija kroja iz Burde 1/2008, #108. Napravljena je od prelepe viskoze sa sitnim crnim tufnama. Kroj je, kao što vidite, izmenjen - promenila sam prednji panel, presekla ga ukoso preko grudi, a gornji deo sam blago nabrala. Takođe, izmenila sam malo i kroj za rukave.

I was very busy last week, making 3 new garments! This time I'll show you a blouse and a skirt, that I made as an outfit.

The blouse is a variation on the BWOF 1/2008, #108 pattern. It's made of gorgeous viscose with tiny black polkadots. The pattern is altered, as you might have notices - I changed the front panel, by making an oblique stitch across the bust. Also, I gathered a bit the top panel. The sleeves have been changed a bit, too.

Suknja je napravljena od mekog, rastresitog lana, kombinovanim sa trakicama od organdina. Kroj je iz Burde 2/2007, #110. Providne trake zaista daju suknji poseban šmek, koji mi se dopao i više no što sam očekivala.

Moram da priznam da inspiracija za suknju potiče od Klodin, koja ima najsmelije, najkreativnije i najtokačenije ideje za svoje kreacije. Njen smisao za estetiku je veoma specifičan, pomalo ekscentričan, i veoma originalan, što mi se jako dopada. Konkretne modele koji su me inpirisali, možete videti ovde, ovde i ovde.

The skirt's made of soft linen, combined with organza bands. The pattern comes from BWOF 2/2007, #110. The transparent bands give the skirt a special charm, that I liked more than expected.

I have to admit that the inspiration for the skirt comes from Claudine, who has the most courageous, funky and creative ideas for her creations. Her aesthetics is very specific, it's a bit eccentric and very original, which I like a lot. You can see the very models that inspired me here, here and here.